e90 - N54 Oil Filter Housing gasket replacement (2007 335i automatic)

NGEE · 12-28-2016, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by askjeeves

FYI bolt stripped due to my own fault cranking tighter instead of loosening initially.

BTDT

meekz · 01-05-2017, 10:29 AM

Is it possible to convert to the oil filter housing with the oil cooler option when u originally don't have an oil cooler?

NGEE · 01-05-2017, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meekz

Is it possible to convert to the oil filter housing with the oil cooler option when u originally don't have an oil cooler?

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=70021&page=1

kevinlevrone · 01-05-2017, 03:13 PM

Completed this DIY today. Thanks OP ! It took me 7 hours start to finish, but I also have the oil cooler so a bit more work and an extra gasket to be done

Some of my findings:

- No part of the job is very difficult, but it is time consuming due to many parts that need to come off first.

- You can do this without significant oil and coolant spillage (I had about 50ml of oil and around 1/2 liters of coolant spillage). Changing the oil is not necessary if you are a bit careful: disconnect the coolant hose first - let the coolant drain into a bottle on which you cut the top part - removing the fan helps a lot with this). For the oil, use the syringe to drain the oil filter housing, save it to a bottle and re-add it when finished.

- Removing the cooling fan, while it can be a bitch, lessens the work significantly. Removing the fan can be done from the top only, so no need to work under the car.

- When starting the engine for the first time there is a bit of smoke in the engine bay, from the oil and coolant spillage. I also encountered this after installing upgraded turbos, so I was expecting it. It should go away after 5-7 minutes.

BayMoWe335 · 01-17-2017, 11:57 AM

Anyone know a reasonable price to get this done? I'm not going to attempt it. I'm getting a quote of $800 to do the OFHG and replace radiator and thermostat hoses that have been contaminated with oil.

Zoki · 04-10-2017, 01:17 PM

So I've been working on my car to change the valve cover and at the same time my dad helping to change the oil housing gasket. Unfortunately he removed the wrong bolt before noticing (red arrow):

Seems to be a head bolt, but BMW only sell the whole set of bolt and not individual ones, is there anyway around this without having to spend big money for one bolt? The bolt that came out was a little rusty. Also does anyone know the torque specs for when it goes back in?

feuer · 04-10-2017, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoki

So I've been working on my car to change the valve cover and at the same time my dad helping to change the oil housing gasket. Unfortunately he removed the wrong bolt before noticing (red arrow):
Seems to be a head bolt, but BMW only sell the whole set of bolt and not individual ones, is there anyway around this without having to spend big money for one bolt? The bolt that came out was a little rusty. Also does anyone know the torque specs for when it goes back in?

I think 7nm +90' but that is a single use (bmw puts paint on all bolts that are single use) so if you want to reuse I will not do the +90'

Zoki · 04-10-2017, 04:00 PM

I'm not sure mine is single use because it's black with no paint, think this is the bolt:

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/179...m-11127535950/

Torque of 22nm according to this.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/1_se...ad_with_cover/

So might just put it back it at 22nm.

AJ@ECSMotorsports · 04-24-2017, 04:30 PM

Just did this along with my serpentine belt.. Looks like I;ll need to replace the coolant housing gasket as well as the leak may be from there as well/instead?

Anyhow, Need some help here guys! When I pulled the upper radiator hose off from the OFH, I was left with an O-Ring which I cannot figure out where it goes. I'm thinking it is a way overstretched o-ring, but even if it did stretch, where exactly does this go? I left it out lol, and I am leaking from that connection point. Also, there was a round circular piece that I left on the 2" nipple on the OFH..

Any help is really appreciated guys! Would like to be able to drive her in the morning

Thanks!
Jay

2fast4 · 04-24-2017, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJ@ECSMotorsports

Just did this along with my serpentine belt.. Looks like I;ll need to replace the coolant housing gasket as well as the leak may be from there as well/instead?

Anyhow, Need some help here guys! When I pulled the upper radiator hose off from the OFH, I was left with an O-Ring which I cannot figure out where it goes. I'm thinking it is a way overstretched o-ring, but even if it did stretch, where exactly does this go? I left it out lol, and I am leaking from that connection point. Also, there was a round circular piece that I left on the 2" nipple on the OFH..

Any help is really appreciated guys! Would like to be able to drive her in the morning

Thanks!
Jay

The overstretched O-ring goes inside the hose connector. There is a round groove inside.
You won't be able to drive your car without it.
The problem with overstretched o-ring is it resits fitting inside the groove.
Either buy the new hose or buy assorted o-rings at Harbor freights.

I'm not sure about the round piece for 2" nipple. If it's nipple by the radiator side then it's hose clamp for the nipple hose.

2fast4 · 04-24-2017, 05:20 PM

I Googled stretched o ring fix and found that if you boil it in hot water for 1 to 2 min can sweat out the oil and shrink it. https://www.hunker.com/12474459/how-...k-rubber-seals

KROOKEDking420 · 06-02-2017, 05:04 PM

hey guys I really got a frustratin issue I just replaced my water pump thermostat and just buttoned up everything and decided while I had everything apart id replace the oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler gasket at the sametime WELL....there starts my problem to remove the oil filter housing to do the gasket you need to remove 3 bolts one of which was below the COOLANT outlet hose so I figure its easier to remove the hose and it friggen snaps the nipple off in the car!!!! OK no biggie by the hose go to replace it and find out to do this I have to remove everything I just did...............MY QUESTION IS: can I get access to remove the hose clamp from the thermostat any other way other then removing everything I just put back in my car???? THANKS FOR UR HELP GUYS/GALS

juld0zer · 06-03-2017, 05:15 AM

Zoki: Do not disturb the one time use aluminium stretch bolts. They do not need to be removed for this job. It looks like you have a turbo engine from your close up pics. There are only three bolts to remove the housing off the head. You have identified them correctly, but to get to #1 you must either elevate or remove the intake manifold. Dont drop any manifold nuts - use magnetic sockets or some butyl tacky stuff to hold the nuts. Blast the area near the runners with shop air before moving the manifold.

AJ: Always replace both gaskets as they age and fail together usually. Swollen oring is a sign of heavy engine oil contamination of the top hose. Replace it as the engine oil deteriorates EPDM rubber. You will not be able to wrestle it back on. Boiling might work but better to do it right.

KrookedKing: Use brake cleaner and degrease and wash off the accumulated dirt on the bolt head. 8mm 12pt ratchet spanner is your friend for that particular bolt. Make sure it is a good spanner that would round the head off. Ideally, it should also be a spanner with a reversible mechanism. Otherwise, just crack it and undo it with your fingers. Not fun having the bolt wedge a non reversible ratchet spanner in that small space.

As for the hose, you'll have to get underneath and investigate. Explore all access points. We in the trade will sacrifice our arms to save time

Rivers · 06-10-2017, 08:21 PM

Thanks for this DIY, just finished it and it only took me an 1 1/2hr from start to finish (I spent more time cleaning the oil residue on the block than performing the job lol).

Didn't even have to drain the oil, but I did use a syringe to suck up the oil that was left over in the oil filter housing.

mckwong · 07-24-2017, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyW

Same here. BTW, anyone know if there is a torque spec for those 10mm bolts? Can't seem to find one and after all the grief of getting a new hose and installing it, I definitely don't want to overtorque and crack that plastic piece and do it all again!

I was trying to find this info and saw your post from 2015. Apparently you no longer need it but it may be helpful for others:

For 2008 335i E93, it is a M6x23 screw, and the torque spec from BMW service manual is 9Nm.

Correction: For my 2009 328i E90 (N51), it is also 9Nm.

mckwong · 07-24-2017, 05:26 PM

For the thermostat to cylinder head hose o-ring 11-53-7-545-278, the stealership at BMW Mountain View (California) charges $17.33. No wonder it is called stealership.

MOONBIMMER · 09-04-2017, 08:43 PM

Been studying this in preparation and have a couple questions...

Is there an o-ring to replace in the coolant hose that attaches to the OFH? Does anyone have the PN if so?

Has anyone had any issues with the aftermarket gaskets offered in kits or is everyone using OE?

2fast4 · 09-05-2017, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MOONBIMMER

Been studying this in preparation and have a couple questions...

Is there an o-ring to replace in the coolant hose that attaches to the OFH? Does anyone have the PN if so?

Has anyone had any issues with the aftermarket gaskets offered in kits or is everyone using OE?

I bought couple of boxes of assorted o-rings at HF. I ended up not using them.
I used them on some other places in the hoses but not these.
I'll tell you why...the upper hose that connects to OFH the 'nipple' at the radiator end was disintegrating. I had to buy at the dealer.
The other skinnier hose that goes to thermostat, the o-ring got stretched beyond when pulling it out + the plastic coupler was also disintegrating. Dealer again. Bimmer designed the what looks like durable is designed to fail. You see the bimmer is top dog #1 in "most unreliable".

Just buy them online and deal with the installs esp the one that goes down to the thermostat area. A lot of bimmer parts once you pull out, you'll see internal stuff rotting.

madmatt9471 · 09-05-2017, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MOONBIMMER

Been studying this in preparation and have a couple questions...

Is there an o-ring to replace in the coolant hose that attaches to the OFH? Does anyone have the PN if so?

Has anyone had any issues with the aftermarket gaskets offered in kits or is everyone using OE?

Here use the last 7 digits of your number on the BMW.

Because you can do a parts search per the vehicle using the last 7 digits of the VIN - this will be a very useful tool now and for the future -

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

Thanks,Matt

MOONBIMMER · 09-15-2017, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fast4

I bought couple of boxes of assorted o-rings at HF. I ended up not using them.
I used them on some other places in the hoses but not these.
I'll tell you why...the upper hose that connects to OFH the 'nipple' at the radiator end was disintegrating. I had to buy at the dealer.
The other skinnier hose that goes to thermostat, the o-ring got stretched beyond when pulling it out + the plastic coupler was also disintegrating. Dealer again. Bimmer designed the what looks like durable is designed to fail. You see the bimmer is top dog #1 in "most unreliable".

Just buy them online and deal with the installs esp the one that goes down to the thermostat area. A lot of bimmer parts once you pull out, you'll see internal stuff rotting.

Thanks for the solid advice.

Just finished up my 09 335i and everything went as expected. The hardest part was spending days in my dark, unventilated, underground garage cleaning EVERYTHING with a bucket and toothbrush...

In addition to the flushing the oil and coolant, I cleaned the solenoids, intercooler and entire intake system. Even polished the oil cooler hardware for a little flair.

BTW I just found out that the reccomended oil was switched to 5W30. I had still been using 0W40....I didn't get the memo....

2fast4 · 09-16-2017, 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MOONBIMMER

Thanks for the solid advice.

Just finished up my 09 335i and everything went as expected. The hardest part was spending days in my dark, unventilated, underground garage cleaning EVERYTHING with a bucket and toothbrush...

In addition to the flushing the oil and coolant, I cleaned the solenoids, intercooler and entire intake system. Even polished the oil cooler hardware for a little flair.

BTW I just found out that the reccomended oil was switched to 5W30. I had still been using 0W40....I didn't get the memo....

Were the coolant hoses still good? I mean inside of the plastic coupler?
Mine were showing particles eroding and o ring stretched out too much.

Where is the memo about oil changed to 5w-30?
I didn't see it. Know the link?
I bought at Wally world the Pennzoil 5w-30 but returned it ang got the good
old Castrol 0w-40 becase Pennzoil is LL04 and Castro is LL01.
I'm in Az hot weather and thicker oil is better + LL01 protection.

MOONBIMMER · 09-16-2017, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fast4

Were the coolant hoses still good? I mean inside of the plastic coupler?
Mine were showing particles eroding and o ring stretched out too much.

Where is the memo about oil changed to 5w-30?
I didn't see it. Know the link?
I bought at Wally world the Pennzoil 5w-30 but returned it ang got the good
old Castrol 0w-40 becase Pennzoil is LL04 and Castro is LL01.
I'm in Az hot weather and thicker oil is better + LL01 protection.

Fortunatly, all my coolant hoses were mint. I caught the leak early and it was only leaking externally so no internal degradation. I replaced the afformentioned block coolant o-ring, coolant and oil proactively (only 54k miles).

No memo about the oil viscosity. Just an expression...

I contacted 2 local (mid Atlantic) dealers and the vendor I purchased from and all 3 confirmed I should be using 5W-30 and not 0W-40. I asked if it was a regional specification and was told it was not. I was also told Castrol is not approved anymore...

I ended up getting OE Twin Power Turbo just to be safe. Although, I seriously doubt continuing to use other LL01 oils with harm anything.

I would advise you to check what viscosity your local dealer is using.

01-05-2017, 10:29 AM	#112
meekz Private First Class 37 Rep 175 Posts Drives: 2008 335xi Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Michigan iTrader: (1)	Is it possible to convert to the oil filter housing with the oil cooler option when u originally don't have an oil cooler?
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01-05-2017, 03:13 PM	#114
kevinlevrone Lieutenant 261 Rep 435 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Europe iTrader: (0)	Completed this DIY today. Thanks OP ! It took me 7 hours start to finish, but I also have the oil cooler so a bit more work and an extra gasket to be done Some of my findings: - No part of the job is very difficult, but it is time consuming due to many parts that need to come off first. - You can do this without significant oil and coolant spillage (I had about 50ml of oil and around 1/2 liters of coolant spillage). Changing the oil is not necessary if you are a bit careful: disconnect the coolant hose first - let the coolant drain into a bottle on which you cut the top part - removing the fan helps a lot with this). For the oil, use the syringe to drain the oil filter housing, save it to a bottle and re-add it when finished. - Removing the cooling fan, while it can be a bitch, lessens the work significantly. Removing the fan can be done from the top only, so no need to work under the car. - When starting the engine for the first time there is a bit of smoke in the engine bay, from the oil and coolant spillage. I also encountered this after installing upgraded turbos, so I was expecting it. It should go away after 5-7 minutes.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-17-2017, 11:57 AM	#115
BayMoWe335 Colonel 1177 Rep 2,132 Posts Drives: 2010 E92 335i 6MT Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: US iTrader: (0)	Anyone know a reasonable price to get this done? I'm not going to attempt it. I'm getting a quote of $800 to do the OFHG and replace radiator and thermostat hoses that have been contaminated with oil.
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04-10-2017, 01:17 PM	#116
Zoki Private First Class 35 Rep 103 Posts Drives: 335i M Sport Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: London iTrader: (0)	So I've been working on my car to change the valve cover and at the same time my dad helping to change the oil housing gasket. Unfortunately he removed the wrong bolt before noticing (red arrow): Seems to be a head bolt, but BMW only sell the whole set of bolt and not individual ones, is there anyway around this without having to spend big money for one bolt? The bolt that came out was a little rusty. Also does anyone know the torque specs for when it goes back in? Attached Images __________________
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04-10-2017, 04:00 PM	#118
Zoki Private First Class 35 Rep 103 Posts Drives: 335i M Sport Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: London iTrader: (0)	I'm not sure mine is single use because it's black with no paint, think this is the bolt: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/179...m-11127535950/ Torque of 22nm according to this. http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/1_se...ad_with_cover/ So might just put it back it at 22nm. __________________
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04-24-2017, 04:30 PM	#119
AJ@ECSMotorsports Lieutenant 21 Rep 405 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Orlando, FL iTrader: (14)	Just did this along with my serpentine belt.. Looks like I;ll need to replace the coolant housing gasket as well as the leak may be from there as well/instead? Anyhow, Need some help here guys! When I pulled the upper radiator hose off from the OFH, I was left with an O-Ring which I cannot figure out where it goes. I'm thinking it is a way overstretched o-ring, but even if it did stretch, where exactly does this go? I left it out lol, and I am leaking from that connection point. Also, there was a round circular piece that I left on the 2" nipple on the OFH.. Any help is really appreciated guys! Would like to be able to drive her in the morning Thanks! Jay
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04-24-2017, 05:20 PM	#121
2fast4 Second Lieutenant 30 Rep 285 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 335i Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Phoenix, Azz iTrader: (0)	I Googled stretched o ring fix and found that if you boil it in hot water for 1 to 2 min can sweat out the oil and shrink it. https://www.hunker.com/12474459/how-...k-rubber-seals
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-02-2017, 05:04 PM	#122
KROOKEDking420 Private 11 Rep 86 Posts Drives: 2007 e92 coupe Join Date: May 2014 Location: BOSTON iTrader: (0)	NEED HELP i broke a coolant hose ............ hey guys I really got a frustratin issue I just replaced my water pump thermostat and just buttoned up everything and decided while I had everything apart id replace the oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler gasket at the sametime WELL....there starts my problem to remove the oil filter housing to do the gasket you need to remove 3 bolts one of which was below the COOLANT outlet hose so I figure its easier to remove the hose and it friggen snaps the nipple off in the car!!!! OK no biggie by the hose go to replace it and find out to do this I have to remove everything I just did...............MY QUESTION IS: can I get access to remove the hose clamp from the thermostat any other way other then removing everything I just put back in my car???? THANKS FOR UR HELP GUYS/GALS
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-03-2017, 05:15 AM	#123
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	Zoki: Do not disturb the one time use aluminium stretch bolts. They do not need to be removed for this job. It looks like you have a turbo engine from your close up pics. There are only three bolts to remove the housing off the head. You have identified them correctly, but to get to #1 you must either elevate or remove the intake manifold. Dont drop any manifold nuts - use magnetic sockets or some butyl tacky stuff to hold the nuts. Blast the area near the runners with shop air before moving the manifold. AJ: Always replace both gaskets as they age and fail together usually. Swollen oring is a sign of heavy engine oil contamination of the top hose. Replace it as the engine oil deteriorates EPDM rubber. You will not be able to wrestle it back on. Boiling might work but better to do it right. KrookedKing: Use brake cleaner and degrease and wash off the accumulated dirt on the bolt head. 8mm 12pt ratchet spanner is your friend for that particular bolt. Make sure it is a good spanner that would round the head off. Ideally, it should also be a spanner with a reversible mechanism. Otherwise, just crack it and undo it with your fingers. Not fun having the bolt wedge a non reversible ratchet spanner in that small space. As for the hose, you'll have to get underneath and investigate. Explore all access points. We in the trade will sacrifice our arms to save time
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-10-2017, 08:21 PM	#124
Rivers Old Man 248 Rep 131 Posts Drives: DGM 335xi Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Bay Area iTrader: (1) Garage List 2008 BMW 335xi E90 [0.00]	Thanks for this DIY, just finished it and it only took me an 1 1/2hr from start to finish (I spent more time cleaning the oil residue on the block than performing the job lol). Didn't even have to drain the oil, but I did use a syringe to suck up the oil that was left over in the oil filter housing.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-24-2017, 05:26 PM	#126
mckwong Private 10 Rep 61 Posts Drives: 2009 328i E90 LCI with N51 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Fremont, CA iTrader: (0)	For the thermostat to cylinder head hose o-ring 11-53-7-545-278, the stealership at BMW Mountain View (California) charges $17.33. No wonder it is called stealership.
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09-04-2017, 08:43 PM	#127
MOONBIMMER New Member 2 Rep 10 Posts Drives: E90 335i Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Moonbeam City iTrader: (0)	Been studying this in preparation and have a couple questions... Is there an o-ring to replace in the coolant hose that attaches to the OFH? Does anyone have the PN if so? Has anyone had any issues with the aftermarket gaskets offered in kits or is everyone using OE?
	Appreciate 0 Quote