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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > ConnectedDrive / I-Drive / Navigation Related Discussion > No Sound from H/K System Sometimes



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      11-14-2017, 06:26 PM   #1
calforhelp
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No Sound from H/K System Sometimes

2011 e93, L7 H/K audio. BSW 9 speaker upgrade, external sub added with technic harness. I've also got a few coding mods done but I haven't changed anything on the system in over 6 months.

This has happened twice now. I start the car, no chimes, no radio, no sound at all. Everything else is functioning 100%, I have full control over iDrive, screen works, external USB, perfect. It's just like the system is on mute tho, obviously, it is not.

To fix the problem I have to turn off the car and wait a few minutes so the system shuts down. Then I can start the car again, so the iDrive shows the boot-up BMW logo, then the system works perfectly again. This is the only way I've found to get the system to work again. Simply restarting without letting the system fully shutdown does not work.

The only two ideas I have are to disconnect the negative battery and let the car reset itself. Or to default the CIC module possibly. I have not tried either yet.
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      12-05-2017, 08:59 PM   #2
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So this has happened twice more now. The latest time was while I was driving. Sound stopped working and iDrive shows “Attention: No Warning Tones”

Did a small amount of research and it seems it could be one of two things.

1) BATTERY COULD BE GOING BAD. I imagine I have the original battery in my car which is a 2011. I have occasionally gotten a low battery charge warning but always attributed it to listening to the stereo too loud and for too long.

2) BLOWN AMP. This seems less likely to me since it works fine sometimes and then other times it just stops working. I do listen to the stereo at full volume more often than not (these BSW speakers just sound great) but would that damage the amp?

So I guess the question is, is there a way to determine if my amp is blown or if it is a bad battery?
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      12-06-2017, 12:52 AM   #3
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since it is e93 your roof can drain some water on amp
it is well known problem that e93 roof after time is not so tight on water
if it is so you'll need to repair roof before amp replacement
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      12-06-2017, 12:31 PM   #4
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Thanks for the suggestion. I think I’ve driven my car in the rain maybe 5 times in the time I’ve owned it. I’ve never noticed any moisture down there after a wash either :/

I do notice that in the summer after driving around for a while with the top down and music blasting, I park in my garage and I can hear a fan whirling away near the amp. It’s quite audible even outside of the car. So the amp definitely gets really hot on occasion.
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      12-06-2017, 03:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calforhelp View Post
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I’ve driven my car in the rain maybe 5 times in the time I’ve owned it. I’ve never noticed any moisture down there after a wash either :/

I do notice that in the summer after driving around for a while with the top down and music blasting, I park in my garage and I can hear a fan whirling away near the amp. It’s quite audible even outside of the car. So the amp definitely gets really hot on occasion.
great
then HK system have simply not enough output power for you
you can replace your amp and speakers with parts from individual audio/EPS system and power of your system increase from 400w to 800w
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      12-06-2017, 04:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calforhelp View Post
This has happened twice now. I start the car, no chimes, no radio, no sound at all. Everything else is functioning 100%, I have full control over iDrive, screen works, external USB, perfect. It's just like the system is on mute tho, obviously, it is not.

To fix the problem I have to turn off the car and wait a few minutes so the system shuts down. Then I can start the car again, so the iDrive shows the boot-up BMW logo, then the system works perfectly again.
If and when it happens again, especially when you first start your car, look for two things...

- Is the iDrive showing the BMW boot up logo?
- Does your system display local HDD storage for Music Files?

A failing HDD can mimic problems that seem to be coming from other devices when they may not be.

If the HDD is suffering from "striction", then the turning off & turning on again sometimes gets the platter spinning again solving the issue.
However once you reach that point the HDD is on its last legs and will need replacement.

I cloned mine to an SSD to avoid this very thing.
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      12-06-2017, 05:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opjose View Post
If and when it happens again, especially when you first start your car, look for two things...

- Is the iDrive showing the BMW boot up logo?
- Does your system display local HDD storage for Music Files?
It seems to not matter if the boot logo shows when the issue occurs. Twice the car started, boot logo, and no sound from the get-go. But this latest time I started the car, boot logo, drove for about 15minutes, then the sound stopped working and iDrive showed “Attention, no warning tones”. I let the car sit for about 3 hours. Started it again, boot logo, but no sound.

Googling “bmw Attention no warning tones” brings up lots of results but it looks like this is a general, blanket warning and the cause could be a thousand different things, none of which are easily diagnosed.... this car is begging me to replace it with an f-type I swear...

Last edited by calforhelp; 12-06-2017 at 05:51 PM..
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      12-07-2017, 02:41 AM   #8
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no warning tones mean that headunit lose communication with amp over most bus
this can mean
1. headunit overheated and have something wrong with most transciever
2. most bus designed as fiber optioc ring, and if some of it's member have problems it can disconnect it
3. amp or external bluetooth module (mulf or mulf2 or tcu) or satellite module fails
4. your alternator regulation module is bad and alternator provides instable power, the modules in car complain and shutdown itself if the voltage is under or over limit

theres is well known problem with mulf or mulf2 module, it is dies after 3-5 year of the usage

the fastest way is to disconnect other most modules except amp on most concentrator and to see if it will work better
another way is to use diagnostic software to see which fault codes already registered in modules and try do disconnect faulty module
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      12-12-2017, 03:18 PM   #9
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So I’ve been without sound for a solid week. I dropped the car off at a shop, they’ve been searching for the problem for a day. Finally got a call from them saying they can’t find the issue and they recommend going to an audio shop.

They found 2 things that may be helpful. They said my battery voltage is definitely low and should be replaced. The other thing they found was he said the CIC was giving some code to “check for aftermarket equipment” the only real aftermarket thing I have on the CIC is my backup camera emulator from eBay and a technic wiring harness for a sub.

I did mention to them about a possible faulty MULF module but they essentially refused to check it out.

Does anyone have any ideas or know any shops in Los Angeles who could help? I don’t really have time time or patience right now to try tweaking the car apart and troubleshooting on my own.

I’m half tempted to just take it to a dealer but I know they’re going to charge hours and hours of labor just to diagnose.
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      12-12-2017, 09:30 PM   #10
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Actually, looking further, I feel like ptpending may be on to something. IDrive is fully responsive except for anything that has to do with Bluetooth. Any menu or option that has to do with Bluetooth just hangs with a spinning wheel. USB inputs also do not mount phones/devices.

If I removed the MULF2 from the MOST bus, would I need to also code it out in order to test if that’s what’s causing the issue? If anyone has a link or tutorial to try to remove it from the loop I would love them.
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      12-12-2017, 11:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calforhelp View Post
Actually, looking further, I feel like ptpending may be on to something. IDrive is fully responsive except for anything that has to do with Bluetooth. Any menu or option that has to do with Bluetooth just hangs with a spinning wheel. USB inputs also do not mount phones/devices.

If I removed the MULF2 from the MOST bus, would I need to also code it out in order to test if that’s what’s causing the issue? If anyone has a link or tutorial to try to remove it from the loop I would love them.
nope, coding is not required
this is picture of most junction

the upper block is for not used most circuits for prewired functions
lower block is for connected functions
you need to open cover on lower block, remove one input and one output optic cables going to mulf and shift nearby so that they were one near one
you should understand that this junction is forming physical loop and that every output goes in input of the another module
the only thing that on sedan or wagon or coupe junction located under rear left side backrest, but on cabrio i do not know how to remove backrest

there is one Levanime user on this forum and it is located near LA and doing some bmw electric works, you may dig his messages and contact him
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      12-13-2017, 12:35 AM   #12
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I believe I remember seeing that behind the driver side, rear door panel when I was changing my speakers.

Possible really great news, I was poking around with the connections on my amp and the system started working again. I think I narrowed the issue down to a short in the Technic add-a-sub wiring harness. I removed the harness and the system (for now) seems solid. I'll update if that wasn't the issue but I'm praying this is solved.
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