[DaveSA]

Hi All,

For the record, the auto trans was totally overhauled at TransTec Adelaide (17,000Km previously). That was done by the car yard. From what I could tell, it was a must-do-job. I've since confirmed that work had been completed by TransTec. At purchase car had done 136,457km.

Here's everything that's been done to date:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1453309

At approx 142K the gear shifter cr#pped itself. Could only put into drive (manual mode). Had to use paddles to change forward gears. Gear shifter control unit etc was replaced, all good from that point.

However (now at 154K km) For the last few days, when I give it the stick (taking off from lights, driving in paddle mode) 1'st goes into to 2'nd BUT it jumps into 3'rd at around 3,000rpm.

First thought was a traction control issue, but the heads-up light hasn't come on, and besides, has new tires, road is dry.

Yesterday pulled in to get petrol, put into drive and the Yellow Sprocket (gear) icon with an exclamation mark appeared in the heads-up display, and the iDrive display a message that I may not be able to use D, R etc.

Same thing happen a few hours later.

No loss off power, car didn't go into limp mode,didn't loss any ability to use gears etc.

Been searching and have found these possible causes:

• Trans oil low
• Transmission control module
• Trans oil cooler shot, needs replacement
• Solenoids
• Other than that, I'm clueless???

Any other suggestions/input is appreciated


Cheers

Dave

[Aus335iguy]

Have you scanned the car with MHD, BMW Carly or any other software ?

[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

Have you scanned the car with MHD, BMW Carly or any other software ?

Thanks for the suggestions, mate. Sadly though, I know diddly squat about mechanics. I believe the car has been scanned with diagnostic software, but that was way back when Adelaide BMW replaced the water pump (April 2016).

Not sure if this is common, but when using the iDrive to check for stored errors, nothing is displayed. Just the Green OK comes up. Even though I've been alerted to errors such as the transmission, and the washer empty error.

A while back Percat Automotive screwed around with the computer and activated the TV so it could be used when traveling. NB - didn't request it, just did it off his own bat. Not sure if he f#cked something up when he did that

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by DaveSA

Thanks for the suggestions, mate. Sadly though, I know diddly squat about mechanics. I believe the car has been scanned with diagnostic software, but that was way back when Adelaide BMW replaced the water pump (April 2016).

Not sure if this is common, but when using the iDrive to check for stored errors, nothing is displayed. Just the Green OK comes up. Even though I've been alerted to errors such as the transmission, and the washer empty error.

A while back Percat Automotive screwed around with the computer and activated the TV so it could be used when traveling. NB - didn't request it, just did it off his own bat. Not sure if he f#cked something up when he did that

It's not likely anything to do with the TV...
Your best bet is to find an SA member who'll lend you their gear or a mechanic that can do a scan for you and that will give us clues as to what's going on.

If you want to DIY id suggest buying a decent USB>k-Dcan cable and either a windows PC with standard tools or an android tablet with OTG. MHD flasher is a great product for N54s

There's also an app called BMW Carly that can do scans via wifi on iPhone as well. Will require an OBD>wifi dongle. its about $100 all up I think from memory.

All the information you need is here and on the internet. Don't be phased by the seemingly complex systems they aren't that bad when you start playing around

[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

It's not likely anything to do with the TV...
Your best bet is to find an SA member who'll lend you their gear or a mechanic that can do a scan for you and that will give us clues as to what's going on.

If you want to DIY id suggest buying a decent USB>k-Dcan cable and either a windows PC with standard tools or an android tablet with OTG. MHD flasher is a great product for N54s

There's also an app called BMW Carly that can do scans via wifi on iPhone as well. Will require an OBD>wifi dongle. its about $100 all up I think from memory.

All the information you need is here and on the internet. Don't be phased by the seemingly complex systems they aren't that bad when you start playing around

Thank you for going the extra mile and explaining the details. The eyes are bit dodgy these days using the mobile, so I'd prefer to use the Laptop. It's pretty beefy with an i7 and 17.3" screen.

What software would you suggest I purchase to use on a Windows PC?



Cheers

Dave

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by DaveSA

Thank you for going the extra mile and explaining the details. The eyes are bit dodgy these days using the mobile, so I'd prefer to use the Laptop. It's pretty beefy with an i7 and 17.3" screen.

What software would you suggest I purchase to use on a Windows PC?



Cheers

Dave

Nothing you need to buy. Have a look in the coding forum and there's free software that you can download

Need to buy the cable though. I recommend Bimmer .... geeks (one word) google it.

[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

Nothing you need to buy. Have a look in the coding forum and there's free software that you can download

Need to buy the cable though. I recommend Bimmer .... geeks (one word) google it.

Thanks Mate

Just purchased the cable from Bimmer Geeks, and downloaded the files for the Windows Tools.
Mechanically I suck (big time). IT though, is my forte

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by DaveSA

Thanks Mate

Just purchased the cable from Bimmer Geeks, and downloaded the files for the Windows Tools.
Mechanically I suck (big time). IT though, is my forte

You're in for a treat with a 335i then. More computers than you can poke a stick at! Lots to play with.

Yell out if you get stuck. I'm still learning a lot about it myself though

[aaron_]

From my current gearbox issue experience, you need to drive your car far away, lock it, catch a cab to an Audi dealership, buy a new car and forget you ever bought the 335.

Hope that helps!!!

[e36mmm]

Hahaha mate!! Audi is the last place you would want to visit if you want a reliable transmission!

[DaveSA]

Visited Transtec today, ran the diagnostic, and no errors, nothing, zip, nadda. Marked it down as a false/positive. Transmission (touch wood) has been running fine since Saturday, and even then with the error code, the gears were still working.

[DR-JEKL]

Was it an extremely warm day when you had the error (sorry if this was outlined I only quickly scanned your post)

[DaveSA]

The more dramas I've had, the more knowledge I have gained. How ironic, huh!

Anyway... turned out to be the traction control. The tires were close on needing replacement. They'd lose grip, and the gear box would jump into next gear.

[Ken Oath]

Originally Posted by DaveSA

......First thought was a traction control issue, but the heads-up light hasn't come on, and besides, has new tires, road is dry.....

Originally Posted by DaveSA

The more dramas I've had, the more knowledge I have gained. How ironic, huh!

Anyway... turned out to be the traction control. The tires were close on needing replacement. They'd lose grip, and the gear box would jump into next gear.

?

[Socket]

Originally Posted by DaveSA

The more dramas I've had, the more knowledge I have gained. How ironic, huh!

Anyway... turned out to be the traction control. The tires were close on needing replacement. They'd lose grip, and the gear box would jump into next gear.

Glad it turned out to be something simple
Hate when there is a problem with the car and have no idea what it could be

Did you pick up the MHD app?
Not only can you flash maps to give your car extra power, but it has a code reading feature and monitoring feature so you can display a host of things like coolant temp and other useful data about the car in real time
If you dont want to run a tune, the code reader and monitoring function is worth the cost of admission alone, especially if you have the cable already
Unfortunately for android devices only, but a cheap ass android tablet is less then a McD happy meal these days

[rooks335]

xHP also offers a pretty good diagnostic option which is free.
From memory it offers solenoid 1-6 readouts and how it compares with a car of the same age (average)
Glad to hear it was only the tyres in the end

[Aus335iguy]

For those reading along at home bimmer geeks has released "Pro Tool" which is an android based version of a lot of the coding functionality. It does all of the advanced diagnosis as well. You need to get a cable or one of his Bluetooth dongles. Check it out !

[DaveSA]

Hi Guys,

Hope everyone is going well

Purchased the following upgrades, they finally all arrived a couple of weeks ago.

• CSF - High performance (racing) radiator.
• Mishimoto - Intercooler.
• Stett Performance - 2x aluminum turbo vacuum cans (replaced crap plastic).
• Cobb - High flow air filter.
• Cobb - Aluminum charge pipe (plastic charge pipe cracks on hard pull)
• Cobb Access Port (ECU performance upgrade)
• New set of plugs.
• 3x new coils (needed otherwise engine can misfire, with ECU tune).
• Nulon - 5W 40 Racing Oil (2x 5lt cans).

All up including import tax, came to around AU$4K.

Dropped car Tuesday, picked up today. It's a beast!
Running 1+ map (sports mode).

Need cat downpipes but can't find any for E93 2008 auto. Cobb, and other performance places all seem to cater only to left-hand-drive manual. Does anyone know where I get them for my right-hand-drive (convertible) auto?

The only remaining issue with my car now, is STILL the oil temps. It's not as bad with the CSF radiator, but it's still climbing to 125C.

Given I've replaced just about everything in the motor now, the only thing I can think of it being is the following:

• Sticky oil filter housing thermostat.
• Oil cooler issue.

If anyone can think of anything else that should be checked, please give me a shout out, thanks!

[Brule]

Buy a bms thermostat stick. It will run oil cooler full time and reduce temps by 10 degree easy but will delay warm up times. No good for cold climates so maybe just take it easy when it gets over 110 degrees or buy an upgraded oil cooler from evolution race works.


Sell Cobb and buy mhd, you can set your water pump to flow more and cool coolant and oil temps that way.

If you want to buy any performance parts again ask for advice on here.

Buy the other 3 new coils they will cause you grief later.

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by Brule

Buy a bms thermostat stick. It will run oil cooler full time and reduce temps by 10 degree easy but will delay warm up times. No good for cold climates so maybe just take it easy when it gets over 110 degrees or buy an upgraded oil cooler from evolution race works.


Sell Cobb and buy mhd, you can set your water pump to flow more and cool coolant and oil temps that way.

If you want to buy any performance parts again ask for advice on here.

Buy the other 3 new coils they will cause you grief later.

+1 for the BMS oil cooler valve, definitely noticed a drop in oil temps. Cheap and super easy to install.

Agree with Brule with getting rid of the Cobb, MHD is much better.
As well as getting the other 3 coils, since your in there better to replace all 6 and do spark plugs as well.

[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Brule

Buy a bms thermostat stick. It will run oil cooler full time and reduce temps by 10 degree easy but will delay warm up times. No good for cold climates so maybe just take it easy when it gets over 110 degrees or buy an upgraded oil cooler from evolution race works.

Sell Cobb and buy mhd, you can set your water pump to flow more and cool coolant and oil temps that way.

If you want to buy any performance parts again ask for advice on here.

Buy the other 3 new coils they will cause you grief later.

Thanks for all your advice Brule.

Should mention oil temps were reaching 129 - 130C. Now with what's been done so far (guessing the CSF radiator helped), oil temps peak at 123 - 125C. But clearly that's still not enough, cause when it goes over 121C I start to feel power-loss.

I find that from say 105 - 115C the engine, along with boosts etc., runs optimally, but starts to degrade (slowly at 1'st) when it starts climbing higher, and is woefully horrid as it climbs past 120C.

I'll grab the bms thermostat stick, and give that a try first. Then if that's not enough, I'll grab the aftermarket oil cooler too.

Have to take the car back to get those extra 3x new coils fitted. Least they used some common sense, and replaced all 6 spark plugs. But why oh why they didn't replace all 6 coils, that seems dumb to me.

Also... Aside from the plugs and the coils, I supplied everything else. All up it cost $2,300. They said it took 10 hours. To me that seems like overkill. I had the stock radiator replaced with a new OEM back about 12 months ago, and that took the Indy Shop 2 hours or less to change over,refill coolant, flush etc., etc. So I'm at a loss to where they managed to pull 10 hours labour from???!!!

[jzx_andy]

Try MHD with an aggressive cooling profile.

You could also consider an aftermarket oil cooler. PSP have a good deal going on at the moment (Black Friday) and their coolers are more than adequate for a street car.