2011 335IS battery dead. Charger didnt work

335ISblk · 08-22-2016, 04:11 PM

Hey guys,

My 2011 (with DCT) battery died after letting the car sit too long and my charger is not doing anything for it. So at this point the car is dead in the water i've yet to try to jump the car because I wasn't sure if this was safe on a BMW? Can anyone clarify that rumor?

Also if I need to have it towed how in gods name do I get the car into neutral if there is zero battery life?

Thanks

OrDox · 08-22-2016, 04:17 PM

Of course it's safe to boost. You will find positive/negative posts under the hood. You can boost it from there. Actual battery is in the trunk though. Keep in mind if you end up replacing the battery, you need to reset the computer so it charges properly. That is if you get an exactly the same battery. If you switch, you need to re-code it completely. Also you don't need battery or the car started to put it in neutral. I presume you drive automatic? Push start? Put the key in ignition and push start button twice (WITHOUT HOLDING THE BREAK). Put car in neutral.

335ISblk · 08-22-2016, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrDox

Of course it's safe to boost. You will find positive/negative posts under the hood. You can boost it from there. Actual battery is in the trunk though. Keep in mind if you end up replacing the battery, you need to reset the computer so it charges properly. That is if you get an exactly the same battery. If you switch, you need to re-code it completely. Also you don't need battery or the car started to put it in neutral. I presume you drive automatic? Push start? Put the key in ignition and push start button twice (WITHOUT HOLDING THE BREAK). Put car in neutral.

Thanks for the response. It's an electronic Dual clutch transmission like on the M3 so I'm not sure if the procedure is the same. I will try that though

OrDox · 08-22-2016, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335ISblk

Thanks for the response. It's an electronic Dual clutch transmission like on the M3 so I'm not sure if the procedure is the same. I will try that though

Sounds fancy, but should be the same procedure

Wilt · 08-22-2016, 07:12 PM

A very long time ago (more than 20 years), a BMW with the computer option was vulnerable when jumping it, it was very finicky about how it was done so as to not fry the computer. The E90 does not have this same issue, when you jump to the underhood points (terminal with red vinyl cover, for positive)

335ISblk · 08-22-2016, 09:28 PM

Tried jumping it tn. Engine didnt even come close to turning over. All I got was clicks of electrical circuits on the dash. The battery is stone cold dead

E82IsTheWay! · 08-22-2016, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335ISblk

Tried jumping it tn. Engine didnt even come close to turning over. All I got was clicks of electrical circuits on the dash. The battery is stone cold dead

my car was doing that when the starter went out.

ctuna · 08-22-2016, 10:08 PM

So why don't you just change the battery?

TheBingoBalls · 08-22-2016, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335ISblk

Tried jumping it tn. Engine didnt even come close to turning over. All I got was clicks of electrical circuits on the dash. The battery is stone cold dead

How long did you leave it for before trying to start it. There's likely no doubt that your battery needs to be replaced but when the battery on a family members X6 went out, it took a good 10-15 min before it could start just so they could drive back home and swap the battery.

Looks like you're at home anyway, best bet is to just get a ride (or drive yourself if you have a second car) to get a new battery and swap it/

rsyed07 · 08-23-2016, 09:38 AM

How long did you let it sit? If it's periods of more than 5 to 7 days I would put a trickle charger set up. These cars have all kinds of battery draw even when the car is off.

mweisdorfer · 08-23-2016, 10:20 AM

If it's the original battery, its probably time to get a new one. My guess is that you do not have an AGM battery. If your OEM battery is white, you have a normal battery. If it's black, you have an AGM.

Best bet is a duralast gold from autozone for about $165.00 or so.

You'll then need to figure out how you want to register it. Basically, you have two choices.

Choice A, use an App like Carly or buy a foxwell / schwabin code reader from Amazon / ECS Tuning.

Choice B, take your car to the dealer and pay $100.00 to them to register it.

The Carly app and adapter will cost you $100.00. The foxwell / schwabin code reader will cost you $175 to $200.00.

You won't know if it's the Alternator until you get it started. You can buy a small device from Amazon that you touch the battery + & - posts with once the car is running to see if the alternator is actually charging the new battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EX...ZED77VHZY146XJ

As far as a starter is concerned, it's pretty rare for a starter to go bad on an e90. Not saying they don't go bad, but you rarely hear about it on this forum.

Bosch is the OEM supplier of both parts. Amazon is probably the way to go as far as getting them at a reasonable price and in two days time, if you have Prime.

335ISblk · 08-24-2016, 03:41 PM

Thanks for all the responses guys

UPDATE:

Rather than have it towed to the stealership I used a member's mechanical services who came to my house and did the work right in my garage. He even picked up the battery and came with it! Very fair price all in for battery+install+coding

He was super professional and did the job right. Took him like 20 minutes with proper coding. He had a legit coding platform; yes it was the real deal that the dealerships use. Very impressive. I highly recommend this guy to do your indy work for you.

I will be using again.

Thanks again, man. Well deserved positive review.

Wilt · 08-24-2016, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335ISblk

Tried jumping it tn. Engine didnt even come close to turning over. All I got was clicks of electrical circuits on the dash. The battery is stone cold dead

SOMETIMES you have to jump the battery and NOT immediately try to start your car, because a certain amount of charge needs to be in the battery!
So you set jumper cables, run the DONOR car engine at a speed above idle for 5 minutes (perhaps more) and THEN try to start the engine on the jumped vehicle.

An MY2011 needing a battery at end 2016, the battery (depending upon production date) is about 5.5-6.5 years, so that is 'about the right time'.
I have been anticipating needing a replacement soon on my 9/2010 production date 2011 328i, since 6 years have passed.
My Euro Delivery E46's battery croaked at 6yrs. 1mo after production, no warning signs!

08-22-2016, 04:11 PM	#1
335ISblk Private 21 Rep 90 Posts Drives: 335IS Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: FL iTrader: (1)	2011 335IS battery dead. Charger didnt work Hey guys, My 2011 (with DCT) battery died after letting the car sit too long and my charger is not doing anything for it. So at this point the car is dead in the water i've yet to try to jump the car because I wasn't sure if this was safe on a BMW? Can anyone clarify that rumor? Also if I need to have it towed how in gods name do I get the car into neutral if there is zero battery life? Thanks
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08-22-2016, 04:17 PM	#2
OrDox New Member 2 Rep 12 Posts Drives: '07 335i e90 Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Toronto, ON iTrader: (0)	Of course it's safe to boost. You will find positive/negative posts under the hood. You can boost it from there. Actual battery is in the trunk though. Keep in mind if you end up replacing the battery, you need to reset the computer so it charges properly. That is if you get an exactly the same battery. If you switch, you need to re-code it completely. Also you don't need battery or the car started to put it in neutral. I presume you drive automatic? Push start? Put the key in ignition and push start button twice (WITHOUT HOLDING THE BREAK). Put car in neutral.
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08-22-2016, 07:12 PM	#5
Wilt Major 228 Rep 1,041 Posts Drives: 2011 328i Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Bay area iTrader: (0)	A very long time ago (more than 20 years), a BMW with the computer option was vulnerable when jumping it, it was very finicky about how it was done so as to not fry the computer. The E90 does not have this same issue, when you jump to the underhood points (terminal with red vinyl cover, for positive)
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08-22-2016, 09:28 PM	#6
335ISblk Private 21 Rep 90 Posts Drives: 335IS Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: FL iTrader: (1)	Tried jumping it tn. Engine didnt even come close to turning over. All I got was clicks of electrical circuits on the dash. The battery is stone cold dead
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08-22-2016, 10:08 PM	#8
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,103 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	So why don't you just change the battery? So why don't you just change the battery?
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08-23-2016, 09:38 AM	#10
rsyed07 Captain 175 Rep 595 Posts Drives: E46 330i, E92 13' 335is Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central FL iTrader: (0)	How long did you let it sit? If it's periods of more than 5 to 7 days I would put a trickle charger set up. These cars have all kinds of battery draw even when the car is off.
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08-23-2016, 10:20 AM	#11
mweisdorfer Major General 1903 Rep 6,968 Posts Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Holly, MI iTrader: (0) Garage List 2007 BMW E90 335i [0.00] 2008 bmw x5 [0.00]	If it's the original battery, its probably time to get a new one. My guess is that you do not have an AGM battery. If your OEM battery is white, you have a normal battery. If it's black, you have an AGM. Best bet is a duralast gold from autozone for about $165.00 or so. You'll then need to figure out how you want to register it. Basically, you have two choices. Choice A, use an App like Carly or buy a foxwell / schwabin code reader from Amazon / ECS Tuning. Choice B, take your car to the dealer and pay $100.00 to them to register it. The Carly app and adapter will cost you $100.00. The foxwell / schwabin code reader will cost you $175 to $200.00. You won't know if it's the Alternator until you get it started. You can buy a small device from Amazon that you touch the battery + & - posts with once the car is running to see if the alternator is actually charging the new battery. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EX...ZED77VHZY146XJ As far as a starter is concerned, it's pretty rare for a starter to go bad on an e90. Not saying they don't go bad, but you rarely hear about it on this forum. Bosch is the OEM supplier of both parts. Amazon is probably the way to go as far as getting them at a reasonable price and in two days time, if you have Prime.
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08-24-2016, 03:41 PM	#12
335ISblk Private 21 Rep 90 Posts Drives: 335IS Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: FL iTrader: (1)	Thanks for all the responses guys UPDATE: Rather than have it towed to the stealership I used a member's mechanical services who came to my house and did the work right in my garage. He even picked up the battery and came with it! Very fair price all in for battery+install+coding He was super professional and did the job right. Took him like 20 minutes with proper coding. He had a legit coding platform; yes it was the real deal that the dealerships use. Very impressive. I highly recommend this guy to do your indy work for you. I will be using again. Thanks again, man. Well deserved positive review.
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