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No crank, no start (sat 2 years) - '08 328xi E92 N51 Auto
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06-17-2020, 10:31 PM | #45 | |
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07-22-2020, 09:12 PM | #46 |
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Haven't updated in a while. Each repair has been turning into a mini-project on its own and with life getting in the way, everything is taking longer than desired.
Here is where everything is so far: 1. New Rein cooling hose w/flange was received and installed. That required the coolant expansion tank and the secondary air pump to be removed for access. 2. Coolant was full of air bubbles after the new pipe went in, couldn't get rid of after rechecking my connections and running the bleeding cycle multiple times. 3. Let it sit for a few days and got a pressure tester. Everything tested okay Ran the bleeding again and no air bubbles anymore. 4. Reinstalled the cooling fan and drained and filled the system one more time as the coolant was looking green. Somebody must have been using the wrong stuff. 5. The battery cables were removed and new ones installed. This was a huuuuge PITA as I could not remove the gas tank in my driveway without removing the exhaust and drive shaft. Instead of doing all that, I lowered the passenger side of the gas tank, cut all the zip ties on the battery cables and snaked them out of their plastic moulds. Then I snaked the new ones in and installed new zip ties. Job had to be done twice, cuz I started at the wrong end and realized my mistake towards the end. This is also not including me wasting a lot of time under the hood not knowing how to unbolt the cables without removing the e-box. Amateur Tip: If you have to do this job, do it right and remove the gas tank/exhaust/drive shaft. 6. Bumper was reinstalled 7. New wheels were purchased with half decent tires and supposedly working TPMS sensors from a 328i of the same vintage. 8. Power steering fluid was replaced 9. Rotors were cleaned off with green Scotch-Brite and then rehoned with a drill attachment. They came out really nice. Hopefully they work as good as they look. 10. Passenger side skirt was cracked from the same incident that damaged the rear splash shield/wheel/tire/cables/etc. It was removed, repaired with epoxy and reinstalled. 11. Front passenger strut was leaking. Both were removed and replaced with new Sachs units along with top mounts to match the rear. 12. Air filter was removed. I was blown away to see the date code! It appears to be original as the car was assembled in late 2007. That's about it. Currently working on reinstalling all the splash shields and engine covers. All brake calipers will be getting a new coat of paint. Transmission, transfer case, and rear differential will be getting new fluids. The wheels will go back on and the shake down can begin. Then I can start troubleshooting the A/C and getting ready for the Oil Pan Gasket |
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08-18-2020, 12:57 AM | #47 |
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Another update. Getting closer and closer to the finish line.
1. Front splash shields reinstalled 2. Brakes They were pretty messed up from sitting outside and being driven in the rust belt, so I attempted to refinish them with a brush on style caliper paint. While the results are good enough for me, if you're in a similar situation, I would highly recommend that you either purchase new calipers from Ate or send yours out for a professional rebuild/powder coating. The amount of time and effort I spent doing this is just not worth it. Another option would be to completely strip down all the calipers and remove them from the car for a sandblasting or a chemical bath. Trying to use a wire wheel and wire brushes while still connected to the brake line and having the pistons inside the calipers, made this job very tiresome. If you can't have your car out of service for too long, maybe even purchasing a set of used calipers from eBay and having them rebuilt/refinished would be a smart move as well. Here is how they looked: Front Left Front Right Rear Left Rear Right Prepped for paint Front Left Front Right Rear Left Rear Right After paint: Front Left Rear Left Finally, the front brake hoses were cracked. So those were replaced for peace of mind and safety. 3. Brake Fluid replaced 4. Transfer Case Fluid looked to be original 5. Transmission The filter seal was very difficult to remove, so I made a tool thanks to a thread in the DIY Guides on this forum. Cleaned the pan, new filter, new pan bolts, and drain/fill plugs. Fluid looked to be original 6. Steering Wheel Purchased a replacement wheel from Latvia! Came in really good condition and it has the inner trim that's still in tact. Have yet to install this. 7. Steering Shaft Steering shaft was squealing a lot. After a closer inspection, noticed the joint had some rust on the ball joint. This probably happened after I degreased everything in the engine bay and let the car sit for months. A little bit of White Lithium Grease and it's back to normal 8. Engine Bay With the steering shaft resolved, I could finally reassembled the intake box and finally finish the engine bay. 9. Wheels Last but not least, with all the brakes redone the replacement wheels/tires could be reinstalled. Left To Do:
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08-18-2020, 01:28 AM | #48 | ||
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08-18-2020, 02:41 PM | #49 | |
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Going back to the moon literally after 50 years is difficult. The space infrastructure that manufactured the vehicles and technology doesn't exist anymore. There are no Saturn 5 rockets in storage somewhere ready to launch. There are no lunar orbiters and landers stored ready to use. So simply respinning an old design makes no sense because all the tooling would need to be rebuilt, which means re-engineered since most of the machines used to build the tooling to build the old-style rockets is long gone. So in essence, we (as a nation of Government contractors) would have to spend engineering resources to go back in time 50 years. The new moon mission is the gateway to eventually landing humans on Mars. So what makes sense is to design new, state of the art vehicles to first get to the moon, then to Mars. So a new generation of space vehicles for an advanced mission to Mars requires new technologies, new tooling and new assembly processes to build those vehicles. That all requires engineering resources. If we (as a nation) are going to spend engineering resources (i.e. a shot load of money) to build new mission equipment, it makes no sense to go backwards 50 years, and makes perfect sense to look forward 25 years. |
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08-18-2020, 08:00 PM | #50 | ||
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08-19-2020, 08:14 AM | #52 | |
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Don't be one of those people who think the USA didn't land on the moon. It's not a good look. Last edited by Efthreeoh; 08-19-2020 at 08:31 AM.. |
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08-19-2020, 08:18 AM | #53 | |
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Glad you have been making progress on the Bimmer. The work so far looks great. I read everything... why did you need to run a new battery lead harness? |
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08-19-2020, 12:24 PM | #54 | ||||
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08-19-2020, 12:38 PM | #55 |
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You can see the damage to the battery lead harness in my post from 6/14/20. There was a lot of corrosion to one of the cables. My guess is whatever the previous owner hit in the road that damaged the passenger side had also damaged that wire.
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08-19-2020, 05:54 PM | #56 | |
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PPK | Mishimoto FMIC | ER CP | Forge DVs | RB Inlets | RB PCV | BMW PE | Dinan springs/Koni Yellows
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09-09-2020, 11:20 PM | #57 |
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1. Shake Down
1st drive after initial repairs went well. Initially got a lot of warnings lights for the DSC system and brakes upon reconnecting the battery after a week, but they quickly went away after the car started moving. TPMS light also went away after clearing the codes and driving with the new wheels. Now I only have a Washer Fluid Low and a Driver Side Brake Light Bulb warning (more on those later). Headlights were pointing too high, so I got those adjusted down. Brakes are still vibrating, so ordering replacement rotors/pads for the front. 2. Exterior/Interior cleaning Exterior wash, engine bay, exhaust tips, carpets, floor mats, leather, seat belts, and a new steering wheel swap. 3. Currently in progress: Replacing the oil pan gasket, replacing front/rear diff fluid, steering rack (rust), front driveshaft (broken u-joint), and repainting/touching up the sway bar and front subframe (if time allows). Broken U-Joint (orange dust and very loose) Good salvage replacement Steering Rack lines are falling apart from rust, decided to replace it since the subframe is down. Salvage replacement also comes with one extra hose which is also rusting away. |
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10-14-2020, 11:11 PM | #58 |
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Quick little update. Pictures will come later.
Oil pan gasket is done Steering rack is done Messed up the power steering pump after reassembly - ran it dry by accident. Replacement steering pump w/ reservoir and suction/return lines is done. Replacement power steering rack return line is done. Valvetronic Motor gasket is done Valvetronic sensor gasket is done Painted the Valvetronic Motor black (was covered in rust). Painted the strut braces Painted some misc bolts in the engine bay Washer fluid level sensor/tank is done Fog light polishing is done Fender turn signal lamp polishing is done Rear brake light bulb replacement is done Floor mat anchor screws are done Alignment is done Wheel bend repair is done Wheel balancing is done but needs more work. A/C is done State inspection is done Ghost side view mirror adjustment fix is done To do: Troubleshoot the vehicle vibration/wheel balance. Polish aluminum window trim Polish tail lights Wash & wax the car Troubleshoot headlight auto-leveling issues Find the source of the trunk interior squeak/rattle Get ISTA to remove Oil Wear shadow code for the transmission Get ISTA to record the battery replacement Replace the E-Box Fan (2F71) Complete BMW recalls x2 |
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