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No crank, no start (sat 2 years) - '08 328xi E92 N51 Auto
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05-24-2020, 01:30 AM | #1 |
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No crank, no start (sat 2 years) - '08 328xi E92 N51 Auto
Hey guys, new to the forum and new to BMW DIY repair. Need your help with my first BMW.
Here is the situation: Vehicle: 2008 BMW 328xi Coupe Automatic with the N51 Engine. Mileage 137,xxx miles Condition: No crank, no start. Starter doesn't turn on. All exterior/interior lights and electrics work. Key remote works. -Vehicle was parked outside uncovered in a private driveway and sat for 2 years. -1/4 tank of stabilized fuel. -Brand new 850CCA BMW battery. -Coolant is present, although low. Here is what I tried: 1. Boosted old battery, wouldn't go past 7-9volts and kept dropping to 5 volts when unplugged. 2. Tried trickle charging old battery, wouldn't charge, indicating a faulty a cell. 3. Tried jumper cables with another car supplying 14V. 4. Installed a brand new BMW 850CCCA battery (did not program/code anything) 5. Pulled out every fuse behind the glove box and checked for continuity with a multi-meter 6. Pulled both relays behind the glove box and tested for continuity 7. Unplugged the MAF sensor, no change. 8. Scanned the computer with BlueDriver OBD2. No check engine codes, but 27 misc. module codes. Whenever the brake pedal is held and the Start/Stop button is pressed down, a noise can be heard from under the back seat, which I presume is the fuel pump. I can also hear a faint electrical noise under the hood, but no distinct clicking of any solenoids. Had to call it a day and went online to research possible issues. Found a guide on e90post about buying a used E9X and found a common issue to be a faulty starter. Later found a YouTube video suggesting to hit the starter a few times to see if it will unstick. Did NOT get to try this trick yet. BlueDriver OBD2 Results Page 1 of 3 View post on imgur.com Page 2 of 3 - Please note Code A0B4 - fault enginestart starter View post on imgur.com Page 3 of 3 View post on imgur.com VIDEO: trying to start it after installing a new battery. Direct link to video, if it doesn't show up on here (just remove the extra spaces) https:// vimeo. com/ 422074508 Pictures of the car: What do you guys think may be happening here? And what should I try next? Car is located 1 hour away from me, so testing it is a challenge. p.s.: Need help learning how to display images and videos on here Last edited by Hayk90; 06-14-2020 at 09:12 PM.. |
05-24-2020, 02:28 AM | #2 |
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Most likely the starter. You can use a long thin extension or pipe to reach in between the intake runners are hit it. You have the remove the cowl to access that area though.
Hit it a few times and see if it clicks, if not hit it a bit harder. To upload images, there should a red + above the typing area. Click it and it opens up a page to upload images.
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05-24-2020, 05:52 AM | #4 |
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So I'll ask the dumb questions:
What caused the previous owner to let the car sit outside un-prepped for two years? Was the vehicle inoperable when it was parked? Do you know any of the maintenance history of the vehicle? Have you looked closely for rodent damage to any of the wiring harnesses? Rodents love to move into stationary vehicles and chew on wires. If you bought the vehicle for a good price (I hope) then it is worth installing a new starter. A new starter requires removal of the intake manifold, so it is a bit of a pain in the ass and usually the PCV hose from the cylinderhead cover to the manifold breaks. Leaving the car to sit outside in NJ for two years with a 1/4 tank of fuel will most likely mean there is water in the fuel now from condensation of water vapor in the air in the fuel tank. You may want to add several gallons of fresh ethanol gasoline (i.e. normal gasoline with 10% ethanol) so the ethanol can absorb some of the water in the fuel tank.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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05-24-2020, 08:11 AM | #5 |
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Tapping the starter with a blunt object is a good start. Starters like to seize up when not used for a long time and tapping them with something can free them up. They sometimes do just fine after that with regular use, but sometimes fail again... You want to give it a good whack, but use caution not to dent the case, or hit it so hard you actually break it.
And I'll 2nd efthreeow's questions...what condition was the car in when last parked 2 years ago? Was it a no start condition that made the previous owner give up on it? 2 year old gas will also likely be a problem once you get the car cranking. Hopefully injectors aren't all bummed up. |
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05-24-2020, 11:17 AM | #6 | |
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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05-24-2020, 01:51 PM | #7 | |
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05-24-2020, 02:22 PM | #8 | |
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ACTIVE Codes (Those Currently Present): A6CF: AUC Sensor ("Bucket" for now ;-) CF17: DSC Message missing; SAS reset needed after battery replacement once engine starts 54C6: Transfer Case Oil Wear; normally appears ~ 130,000 miles; "Bucket" for now 604E & 6057: TPMS indicates no signal from RR pressure sensor in wheel; "Bucket" 5EBA: SAS Sensor Reset Needed; turn steering "Lock-to-Lock" twice after engine start; this is common after Dead Battery or Battery disconnection, and likely the cause of CF17 above which should also become "History" when Reset done A0B4: THIS is indicating NO Starter Activation or Function; WHICH? is the BIG QUESTION A8C2: Reversing (Backup) Light Fault, Right A8B6: Brake Light Fault, Left The rest of the codes are "History" which means those faults are NOT Active or "Currently Present". Generally, there is NOTHING in the Fault Codes (OTHER than A0B4 ;-) that suggests the car needs substantial work. The FIRST question to be addressed (as you appear to recognize) is WHY won't the Starter Crank? A0B4 confirms that the CAS has recognized the Starter is NOT being activated. AFAIK, that code can occur from either: 1) A faulty Starter/Starter Solenoid: Although 12V+ is being applied to the Solenoid by the CAS, the Solenoid is NOT Activating/Turning the Starter; or 2) The CAS is NOT supplying the 12V+ supply to the Solenoid to trigger the Starter. It would be a shame to go to all the trouble & expense of removing the Intake, replacing the Starter, ONLY to find that the old one passes a bench test & the New one won't crank either. The CAS Module has the ability to provide quick answers to the question if your Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software has the ability to query the "Parameters" or Live Data (Inputs to CAS Module) from the CAS. BEFORE the CAS can send the 12V+ Activation Signal to the Starter, in addition to being Powered and a proper key being recognized, the following must happen: 1) Brake Light Switch signal must be received. Does at least ONE of the brake lights come ON when Brake Pedal pressed? 2) Gear Selector Position P/N (Park or Neutral) must be received. Does "P" light in the Gear Indicator Module on Console to Left of gear selector lever with Ignition ON? 3) Engine RPM must be 0. INPA shows each of those as Live Data, when connected to CAS Module. I don't know anything about BlueDriver, but it MAY have the ability to read such Parameters/Live Data (called "Status" in INPA). It's NOT rocket science, it's just displaying whether inputs are being received by CAS Module, or NOT -- essentially whether a certain switch is "open" or "CLOSED". So I would read the BlueDriver Manual or Documentation to see if IT can do that, and if NOT, consider getting a K+DCAN Cable for $45 (BimmerGeeks) and getting the FREE Download (linked on BimmerGeeks site) for BMW Standard Tools (includes INPA), and E89 Datens, which is what E9x models use. NEXT, if the necessary Brake & Gear signals are being received, you need to know if CAS is "Activating Terminal 50" which is a measurement of Voltage supplied by CAS to the Starter Solenoid. Once again, the CAS Module gets inputs of Voltage at each "Terminal" including Terminal 50 (Starter Activation) and Terminal 15 (Ignition Activation), as well as Terminal 87 (DME Relay Activation). If your BlueDriver can't do that, consider getting INPA. So CAS can tell you if it's getting the necessary Input Signals (Brake & Gear) to activate Starter, and if it's sending Voltage to Starter Solenoid (Terminal 50). If you can quickly query that information with Scan Tool or Software, that's the proper FIRST Step. If you don't have the capability to do that via the OBD II Socket, then there are STILL things you can do to DIAGNOSE/TEST before doing surgery. TIS (newtis.info) has TONS of detailed information on most anything related to E9x models (and other BMW models). Their circuit diagrams are the place to start to understand how a system works, and how to test to identify or confirm the cause of a fault. In this case, the CAS Module wiring diagram is what you want to understand in order to "test before surgery": https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9 That's the CAS Module wiring diagram for 2008 328xi E92. The CAS Module has the Code A149a, and the Starter Motor/Solenoid has the Code M6510a in this Schematic. NOTE the Black wire that runs from Pin #22 of Connector X13376 at the CAS to the Starter Connector X6510. That is the wire that supplies voltage to activate the Starter Solenoid and make it click when START is pressed with Brake Pedal pressed and Gear Selector in "P". So using a simple DMM (Digital Multimeter) you can test for "Activation Signal" when START is pressed. Just go into E-box and measure Voltage at either "intervening connector" between CAS & Starter: 1) X6011, Pin #1: per this TIS Installation Location & Connector View: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-cou/SL92ADs https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-cou/Cjob60dQ 2) X60531, Pin #2: Actually, there MAY be an error in the Schematic, as I find NO "Installation Location" for this Connector on YOUR vehicle. So I would just test at X6011 described above. You might follow the wire from X6011/Pin#1 to see if it goes to another connector within the E-box BEFORE it leaves the E-box to go to the Starter. You can test TWO different things at X6011 in the E-box: 1) Does CAS send 12V+ signal when START Pressed? 2) Can you activate the Starter Solenoid or make it click by applying 12V+ to DISCONNECTED wire that runs to the Starter? Make sure you don't apply voltage to the CAS -- Disconnect CAS wire to X6011/1. You may ask: WHY go to the trouble of removing the Microfilter Housings (Upper & Lower) and opening the E-box? Well, you are going to have to remove those housings to remove the Intake Manifold and Starter, so NO time lost if Starter does NOT crank when voltage is applied to DISCONNECTED Starter Solenoid wire. ALSO, since the car has sat UNUSED for 2 years, IF the starter worked 2 years ago, it is likely that the Solenoid may be "loosened up" and become operative IF you remove the Microfilter Housings, and tap it firmly with a wooden dowel, broom handle, etc. It would be preferable NOT to use a metal rod, as if you contact the Starter Supply wire (BIG, RED WIRE ;-), you are likely to weld it (or yourself ;-) to the chassis/engine, blow the fusible link, etc. You don't indicate ANYTHING about the history of WHY the vehicle was parked for 2 years, NOR whether there was an issue (undiagnosed) with the vehicle which caused it to NOT be used. IF obtaining such history is possible, that might assist in diagnosis. If you have NOT discovered TIS, Bentley, and other valuable References, or if you are wondering what is the best Diagnostic Tool to use and where to get it, see the attached "E9x References" pdf. BOTH TIS & Bentley contain excellent procedures for performing a particular task, such as Starter R&R. ANY DIY type who owns a BMW NEEDS to know how to use those tools. George |
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05-24-2020, 03:57 PM | #9 | ||||||
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Thank for the help with images, that makes it soooo much easier than hosting them myself. Quote:
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1) Previous owner is a close family member. He no longer needed two cars and started driving his newer car instead. I don't know why he didn't alternate them or prep the BMW for long-term storage. 2) According to him, the BMW ran normally when it was parked. Some time later, he added stabilizer to the fuel, but the engine wasn't turning on anymore so he wasn't able to circulate the fuel. His assumption was that the battery died. He expressed an issue with his brakes failing on him once or twice - the property has a very steep driveway and he skidded off of it into the grass. So I image that had something to do with not driving it anymore. 3) Very little known maintenance. I know the engine oil was changed by the owner, don't know how frequently. He had the rear suspension (maybe shocks) repaired by a local shop. The rear right wheel well is missing the splash shield, he said he hit something. This may explain why there are codes in the system for the Rear Right wheel. Tires are ContiProContact SSR and I noticed a 2018 date code on one of them, so they must have been serviced some time before it was parked. I'm gonna ask if he has any service records, but I doubt it. 4) Didn't get to lift the car due to the sloped driveway nor remove any covers under the hood. Didn't see any obvious signs of a rodent nest, yet. They have a very active dog and lots of large birds in the area, so hopefully that deterred any small critters from staying there for too long. 5) Car isn't officially purchased yet, more of a mutual agreement. He was planning to scrap it and have the scrap yard tow it away. We agreed that I would pay whatever they were offering him and hopefully drive it out of there. Watched the starter replacement video and how common the failure is. I'm gonna try to diagnose it a little further before throwing more money at it. Worst case scenario, it will get towed to a nearby BMW shop, but I would rather do the repair myself if know it's the culprit. 6) Yeah I'm concerned about the fuel as well. Knowing how easily it destroys carburetors and fuel hoses on small engines, I can only imagine what the fuel injectors are like. I will try adding 5 gallons of fresh fuel and maybe a fuel system cleaner. To explain why I'm doing this. My dad got really interested in the car and is excited to get it running again and doesn't mind paying for repairs that it needs. I am fairly comfortable around car repair, so I figured I'd give it my best shot. The car was going to go to a scrap yard, but it's still in a pretty decent shape and it would be a shame to dispose of it if its a simple starter fix - the car is worth at least 3 grand in its current condition with a running engine. If it was my money, I would walk away as it seems there is a lot of deferred maintenance, lack of service records, oil leaks, lots of wear and tear on the interior, plus all the other issues that come with sitting for so long such as tires, brakes, suspension, etc. Quote:
Hell yeah. The weather was not on our side yesterday. Intermittent rain showers made the leaves soggy and difficult to remove. Coming back with a leaf blower and a shop vac before I go further. There is also moss/mold all over the passenger side exterior, that you may not see in the pictures. Quote:
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I know from a visual inspection, the Park indicator was lit up on the gear selector and brake lights were working, RPM's obviously at 0. But the real answer is if the CAS module is seeing the same inputs, as you mentioned. I'm gonna review the sources you provided for testing the activation signal and the 12V input through the disconnected solenoid wire, that I should be able to do with my multi-meter, as long as I know where to check. Thanks again for all the info, it's very thorough and logical in how to troubleshoot this issue. |
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05-25-2020, 08:48 AM | #10 |
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To let a fine automobile like an E92 with just 137,000 miles on it to sit for 2 years and then SCRAP IT, is automotive blasphemy, let alone a case of BMW abuse. A well cared for E9X at 137,000 miles has literally hundreds of thousands of miles left in it. Why didn't he just sell it when it was in drivable shape. It says the current owner really didn't care for the car before he parked it to let it die. So I'd offer him very little money for it (he was going to scrap it anyway), since you really don't know the level of abuse the car has seen due to lack of proper maintenance.
So a bit more about rodent damage. I live in a rural area and have several cars that sit for mere days or at most a week, and every one has had rodents move in and cause damage. From 2004 thru 2017 I had two beagles, who freely hunted my property for hours every day, and there are plenty of snakes, birds or prey, and other "hunters" to keep rodents at bay, and even my daily driver, which sees 170 miles a day, still got attacked by mice (George will remember my comment about "killing the mouse" from a few years ago ). So what I would do is remove the cabin airfilter housing (people mistakenly call it the "cowl"). It takes just a 8MM socket and 5 minutes. You will get a better look at the wiring harnesses up on the firewall. And more light will allow you to look at the starter between the intake runners. There is a single "signal" wire that triggers the starter solenoid, which if broken, will cause the problem you are experiencing. The engine in the E9X is canted to the right, about 15 degrees, which creates a perfect ledge under the intake manifold for a rodent to make a nest on the left-side of the engine block; I found a nest there in my 325i when I replaced the starter/CCV system last year, and several other members here have found nests as well. The signal wire for the starter hangs freely in space right where rodents like to make a nest on the engine in an E90. Remove the cabin airfilter housing and get a bright flashlight and verify the signal wire is still intact as a first order of diagnosis. You need to look between the 5th and 6th cylinder intake runners to get a good look at the starter, which requires removal of the cabin airfilter. If you find the wire intact, then I really think the starter went bad sitting for 2 years. The Bendix-drive that throws the starter gear onto the flywheel ring gear eventually gets gunked up with dirt and will stick, which is why hitting the starter while it is energized sometimes frees the Bendix-Drive and the starter works again. Letting the starter sit make the problem worse. Hell, it might be worth trying to get some penetrating oil on the starter in the hopes it creeps into the Bendix-drive.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 05-25-2020 at 10:41 AM.. |
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05-25-2020, 06:27 PM | #11 |
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I have noticed that gasoline engines have an issue with their engine ground cable, which is located under the engine, it is noticeable by its large diameter and the fact that it is not covered by plastic. It is oxidizing, and breaks the ground connection of the engine.
Unfortunately this issue usually creates another problem in CAS, it either breaks the startup relay or burns some circuits. In both cases the engine won't crank. I suggest that you check that ground wire, and put your ear under the steering wheel while pressing the start button to listen if the CAS relay engages. |
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05-25-2020, 09:24 PM | #12 | |
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So failure or complete disconnection of the Ground Cable between the Engine Block and the Chassis, will NOT damage any relay or "burn" or overheat ANYTHING, except perhaps the SMALLER ground cable on the opposite side of the engine which CAN'T carry the Amps the Starter draws. OP, if you want to quickly Rule OUT the Engine Ground Strap, simply attach ONE jumper cable as a supplemental ground, between the (-) Jumpstart hex pin on the right wing/fender, and a substantial metal bolt/fitting on the engine block. That acts as an Additional Ground Strap, so if anything NOW works with that attached (such as the Starter) which did NOT work before, THEN get the car on ramps and inspect the ground strap at the left rear of engine next to the Starter Motor. George |
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05-25-2020, 10:25 PM | #13 |
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Guys I got some great news, the starter is now working! The broom stick did it.
George, the K+DCAN cable is on order from BimmerGeeks. Day 2 was as follows:
Found out about the service history from the owner: "The first 4 years was all on schedule at the dealer. After that I did all the oil and fluid stuff. Other repairs are as things went wrong. Belts, suspension, brakes, etc. The last thing I did was replace a couple coils and spark plugs to fix a misfire Oil was changed every 5k miles It's had the radio replaced, headlights were on recall, air bag on recall, exhaust header gasket, reverse (some lever or spring under the transmission), belt, alternator. That was all at the dealer. Guy I found did the rear suspension. Did the tires and brakes after I gave up on the dealer. I believe there was one more open recall that they didn’t have the part developed for before I stopped driving it." Sun went down, so that's it for now.
What do you guys think I should try next? p.s.: Short video will be included in a bit, but here are a few more pictures of the car for now. Before and After leaf blowing/vacuum Engine cowl and intake off. Me hitting the starter as the engine is cranking Last edited by Hayk90; 05-25-2020 at 10:40 PM.. |
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05-25-2020, 11:29 PM | #14 |
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Nice!!
It’s a fuel issue if it started with carb cleaner. You don’t have to remove the belt to check for frozen accessories. Simply have someone crank it while you look at the accessories and look for any that aren’t spinning. The starter may still possibly be bad if the engine is turning over slower than it should. How long did you crank it for? Maybe the good fuel didn’t reach the engine and that’s why it isn’t starting. |
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05-26-2020, 12:43 AM | #15 | |
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Once the Starter Cranks the engine, new codes related to Crankshaft Sensor, Cam Position Sensors, VVT, etc. may be present, OR there could be NO Main DME Relay (Terminal 87), Ignition (Terminal 15) Relay, etc. Since you're experienced in automotive systems generally, but unfamiliar with specific BMW E92 Systems, I would suggest getting Codes FIRST. While BMW-specific "Hex-codes" are preferable, for the DME (Engine Control Module), ANY generic P-code reader will give you most anything important (NOT the 5 Electric Coolant Pump Codes -- but that pump is NOT preventing Starting ;-) INPA (BMW Standard Tools) will give you the most comprehensive Diagnostics, in ALL ~ 20 Modules in the Vehicle, but at the moment, all we need is info from the DME. So beg/ borrow/ steal ANY decent scan tool and read codes. Read Freeze Frame Data for each code TOO if tool will provide it (it's saved in the DME, it's just a matter of what the Tool can Read, and if you know HOW to use it. With Fault Codes, we can provide TIS circuits & suggested tests. I have a "little trouble" with the concept of the owner just quit driving it even though it was running. Most people would at least start it every several weeks or month, even though they had a new vehicle, and even though the Safety Inspection (or registration) had expired. If it started on Brake Cleaner for ~ 1 second, then you have Ignition. Need to check for fuel pump (in tank under RR seat cushion) whine when you unlock the car or open the driver door. If pump is NOT running, there SHOULD be a fault code in the DME (as well as in the EKPS (Fuel Pump Module). There could be a wiring/ connector fault, or even just a bad/ blown fuse. Here are the TIS circuits for Fuel Pump, Injectors, and Coils for 2008 328xi E92 (N51): https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uL5g1L7 https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ection/vQegKNb https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/vBlJ2fy The old-school way of disconnecting coil (COP coil), attaching a spare sparkplug (or taking out the one coil was attached to), grounding plug, and looking for spark during Starter Cranking works if your Starter does, and YOU don't get shocked. The N51 has some "Features" (Over-engineering for "Super Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle" status (SULEV), such as different Gas Tank Plumbing and Fuel Pump circuitry, which CAN cause issues. I would start by reading codes, checking fuses F70 (Fuel Pump Module/Pump) and F39 (Coils & Injectors). There are a lot of other tests we can devise if we have the codes. George Last edited by gbalthrop; 05-26-2020 at 12:53 AM.. |
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05-26-2020, 01:10 AM | #16 | ||
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2. I forgot to mention I smelled some burning rubber after cranking the engine for a while but couldn't seen any smoke. That's why I was thinking maybe one of the accessories wasn't turning? Didn't have the foresight to look at the pulleys as the engine was turning. 3. We did a bunch of time, probably around 10 attempts. Held the button until it stopped the starter on its own. Quote:
I was able to hear the fuel pump priming on every Start button press on Day 1. Did not explicitly check for it on Day 2, but I think I remember hearing it. I didn't push the Start button on Day 2, instead I had helpers do it for me while I watched the engine bay. I definitely heard fuel pressure build under the hood, or something that sounded like fuel pressure right before the starter kicked on. There is also a distinct buzzing noise coming from the interior, possibly the speakers, whenever I open the door. It usually goes away after a minute or so. Maybe it's the fuel pump as well. One thing I forgot to mention, I locked the car with the hood on its first latch and a trickle charger hooked up to the jumper posts...I noticed when I left for the day, I saw the 'P' lit up on the transmission shifter even though the car was off. Is that normal for BMWs? I would have assumed that all the lights would turn off when the car is locked, but then again I can turn on the radio without having the key in the ignition, so what do I know? Also, here is the video. It starts on Attempt #11. (remove the extra spaces) https://vimeo.com/ 422690947 p.s.: Could somebody please explain how to post Vimeo links on here? They show up as a blank screen for me when I use a direct link and the embedded code doesn't work. Tried using VIMEO tags, same issues. Last edited by Hayk90; 05-26-2020 at 02:42 AM.. |
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05-26-2020, 05:16 AM | #17 |
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I think the injectors are gummed up. I would try real starter fluid rather than carb cleaner. If it rotates and has sparks, then starter fluid will get the engine to lite up for a few seconds, which may get the injectors to warm up and unstick.
Pull the engine cover and have a look around. Just a crazy idea, but get a vibrating toothbrush and massage the injectors a bit with it. Oral sells a battery powered toothbrush for a few dollars that runs at a frequency similar to a sonic cleaner.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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05-26-2020, 11:29 AM | #18 | |
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For NOW, ANY DME Fault Codes will do. George |
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05-26-2020, 02:18 PM | #19 | |
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Thanks for all that info, I will follow your instructions and check everything you mentioned next time I'm out there, which should be tomorrow. |
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05-26-2020, 05:45 PM | #20 | |
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Now with some on topic info. Hayk90 If the P on your selector stays on, that means the car doesn't go to sleep and it is draining your battery. From all the information you have provided, what I can tell is that you might find some fishes in your car with a little hope. Remove the trims on the driver side that are holding your carpet, you also need to remove the chair's screws and raise the chair on its back and pull the carpet up. If there is no visible water, check the back of the carpet for moisture. In that area in the back left corner(the corner of the footrest) with your carpet raised you can see 2 connectors plugged in together. Unplug them and check for corrosion, and water. If I were in your place I would also check the FRM and JBBF connectors (both the wiring and the ecu's) for corrosion. The procedures I have mentioned will not probably fix your starting issue, but I suggest that you address them at this stage. In my opinion the starting issue is related with the fuel injection in the piston chamber. This might happen due to 4 main issues: 1. dme-cas ews tempering 2. blocked injectors 3. bad dme 4. spark plugs covered with gasoline and carbon 5. bad/no power supply to the ignition coils. I think, if you have a good battery supply and with a little starting spray (be careful as it might ignite while trying to start the car) and with you air inlet removed so you can spray directly in the chambers, the car will start. |
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05-26-2020, 05:51 PM | #21 |
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Drives: 2009 BMW 328i, Honda Civic Hat
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Hows the paint when its outside like that? Also why didnt anyone drive it
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05-26-2020, 09:02 PM | #22 | |
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IF I were to see something in the "Real World" that appears to NOT follow the basic "Laws of Physics", I would FIRST question MY CONCEPT of physics, rather than the "Physics Law" or formula itself, and then I would question my "application" of that law to the issue at hand. Just a thought, NOT a sermon. Please keep contributing as you have. I'm sure I'm NOT the only person who appreciates, and has benefited from, your posts. Thanks, George |
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