[C4maro]

If n54s are going 200000miles plus tuned, curious to see how long a "normally" driven stock could last.

[IllSic_Design]

My tuned and tracked N54 is at 207k, with plenty more to be put on

[401FlaGATOR]

I'm at 194K. Still going strong. Salute to Efthreeoh who keeps me going. Maybe we'll all get together someday, those who have gone to 300K+, I hope to be inducted one day.

I vote for Efthreeoh to get his jacket today!

[Richwm]

2006 330i sport, 6 Mt 250k miles.
Valve tick since 50K
Oil changed every 6-7K
Coolant every 2 years
Spark plugs every 50K miles
M3 control arms every 60-80K
BMW Performance Brakes at 107k and 214K
M-sport shocks and struts at 135K
Water pump and thermostat replaced at 153k no failure just replaced.
Fuel pump and filter replaced at 188k no failure just replaced.
#2 Coil failed at 191k replaced all 6.
MAF sensor and MAF connector replaced at 248K. IAT temp failure.
I drive 100 miles a day and drive hard 6k RPM shifts are not uncommon for me.
Original clutch with CDV deleted at 10k

I hope to make it to 350K + like Efthreeoh

[antonmn]

Hit 217k on my n54 returning from Chicago this weekend.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 401FlaGATOR

I'm at 194K. Still going strong. Salute to Efthreeoh who keeps me going. Maybe we'll all get together someday, those who have gone to 300K+, I hope to be inducted one day.

I vote for Efthreeoh to get his jacket today!

Let's wait till late June or early July

[Desert Mike]

Originally Posted by Desert Mike

I just want to post an update on this page. My 2007 328i now has 169K on it and here's what I have done to it in the last 2 years.

1) A bit of a miss at idle told me that I needed new plugs. It felt like someone gently rear ended me at a stoplight when the engine would hiccup. It started doing it only occasionally but eventually got worse. A trip to the Indy shop revealed new plugs AND new coils were going to be necessary. I looked at my old maintenance paperwork and found out that the last time this was done was at 77K and was plugs only done at my friendly but expensive BMW dealership (>$300). 90K miles on the plugs and 169K on the coils. The parts for this job via the Indy shop were about $600. I did a little shopping online and was able to find a better deal on the parts at ECS Tuning (~$200 for six plugs and six coils by Bosch). The part numbers matched those for this car on OEM Bimmer, so I bought the kit as the Indy shop said they would install with my parts. That fixed it!! No codes, so the guy at the shop (25 years working at BMW shop) diagnosed it perfectly. If you want to save some money, buy your own parts (I had the Indy shop save my old plugs and coils so I could do a post-mortem). The old plugs were NGK but the old coils were identical to the Bosch coils that I bought. OEM Bimmer specified either NGK or Bosch would be the OEM replacements, so I was OK there. Examination of the old plugs told me that there were no oil leaks as they were all the same color (grey). Oh yes, the labor for this job was ~$200.

2) Inspection of the car showed two more low priority projects to do: perished motor/transmission mounts and some small deformity/cracking in the upper control arms (thrust arms). Low priority, so I haven't addressed this issue yet. I found the parts I need online for about half the Indy shop's estimate. $160 for the thrust arms, $150 for a set of motor and transmission mounts.

3) Rear brakes - bought replacement parts this time from FCP Euro (they have a lifetime warranty on parts, check them out). They have a rear brake replacement kit with Zimmerman rotors and Akebono pads for around $170 (free shipping). I was definitely tired of all of the brake dust from the OEM "like" pads that were installed by my old Indy shop (and they tended to squeal), so the Akebono pads seemed like a good replacement option (and they were recommended by some guys in posts on this site). Jury out on the dust but no squeal and no discernible difference in feel or performance. But I saved a bit of money by buying my own parts (~$200 labor at the Indy). BMW would have charged about $700 for OEM parts and labor.

4) I'm getting a gasoline smell from the front of the car. Indy suggests either fuel injector seal leaking or I've seen some posts saying the o-ring seal at the front of the fuel rail might be leaking. As this only happens when the car is cold (first start in the morning), I've not addressed this issue further (my next priority). I think labor for this will not be too much (replacing all of the injector seals, ~$200). Anyone else have an idea? Maybe fuel line leak?

5) A couple of electrical gremlins that really don't bother me too much: the right halo light (angel eye) went out for a couple of days but came back to life. No more failures the past month. Dang, I really wanted to replace with the brighter LUX V7 LEDs (both sides of course), but now I can't justify it. Also, the air bag lamp comes on (only happened twice) first thing in the morning and the car apparently doesn't think that the passenger seat belt is in the latch. Funny thing is the "ding" doesn't happen, only the seat belt light shows even after the belt is taken in and out of the latch a few times. Turning off the car and restarting makes this issue go away. (I'm assuming that this will cause the passenger air bag to not deploy). I've had the air bag recall performed but this was only on the driver's side - this issue is with the passenger side only when a passenger is in the seat (so far). Anyone else have this happen?

5) Just a note - I'm still on the original water pump at 169K. Car has always been garaged (at least since I've bought it at 40K as a CPO) and has never been exposed to extreme cold weather. Also, still on the original struts/shocks (M sport suspension). Indy confirms no leaks and I'm satisfied with the damping even as hard as it is, so no replacement in the future.

Thanks to Efthreeoh and all of you others for participating in this post. It's really good to see a group that wants to keep your "old" Bimmers going. I'm going to keep the one I've got for a good while longer as it still drives like new and better than the "F" generation.

I forgot a couple of things:

1) passenger side rear window regulator (~$400)
2) inspection revealed the accessory belt tensioner had a slight "wiggle" to it. Replaced all parts with a "kit" supplied by ECS Tuning (parts ~$100, labor ~$175) (belt/tensioner/pulley)

[freakystyly]

Originally Posted by Desert Mike

I forgot a couple of things:

1) passenger side rear window regulator (~$400)
2) inspection revealed the accessory belt tensioner had a slight "wiggle" to it. Replaced all parts with a "kit" supplied by ECS Tuning (parts ~$100, labor ~$175) (belt/tensioner/pulley)

How many regulator replacements is that? I hope that extra 0 is a typo.

It's easy to get nickle and dime'd at the mechanic if you aren't able to DIY. Youtube and this forum are a great resource, start with small things if you're unsure.

[Desert Mike]

OK, I'm at 175K now and here's the latest:

The window regulator was actually $400. This was parts+labor (part is about $80) done by Indy shop.

I can confirm that the Akebono/Zimmerman brake parts (rear only at this time) make MUCH less dust than OEM (still on front). I will buy this brake kit for the front (from FCP Euro) when it's time.

Driver's door lock regulator went out. Door will lock but will only unlock via pulling the lever. I bought the part and will have an Indy install. I did save quite a bit of money shopping for the part. Found a set (right and left side) of regulators for $75 on FCP Euro. Strangely enough, if you buy only one side the price is $230. Having the install this week (est. ~$200).

[hOlykamOtie*]

Originally Posted by Desert Mike

OK, I'm at 175K now and here's the latest:

The window regulator was actually $400. This was parts+labor (part is about $80) done by Indy shop.

I can confirm that the Akebono/Zimmerman brake parts (rear only at this time) make MUCH less dust than OEM (still on front). I will buy this brake kit for the front (from FCP Euro) when it's time.

Driver's door lock regulator went out. Door will lock but will only unlock via pulling the lever. I bought the part and will have an Indy install. I did save quite a bit of money shopping for the part. Found a set (right and left side) of regulators for $75 on FCP Euro. Strangely enough, if you buy only one side the price is $230. Having the install this week (est. ~$200).

Save urself some money and just DIY it. I did this on my E82 last spring and will be doing it again on my E90. It is actually pretty easy as long as you have the proper tools like the plastic prying levers which you can buy at harbor freight. Bought my door lock regulator set at eBay for around $53 and you can follow the DIY videos in youtube.
www.youtube. com/watch?v=zByNn9DYbzI&t=315s

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

My tuned and tracked N54 is at 207k, with plenty more to be put on

That's pretty impressive.

[Desertraptor]

E90 325i 165K and going strong.
I have kept up all servicing as required. I have the ticking and a sump leak but nothing major.

Am only now looking to replace but I am not fond of the turbo 4 that replacements.

Am inspecting a M14 F30 328i tomorrow if it don't sell tonight.

[mehrlovin]

You can easily hit 200k I think but there are a few things that will certainly fail. You are looking at $2000 in maintenance to get you there, assuming you don't use the dealer and do some work yourself.

Your VCG will definitely go but you can do that in your garage or invite a mechanic to your garage to do it. I had a guy do it for me for $350 labor and he did it well. Parts were around $350 too.

I would definitely get this part, replace the solenoids and the serpentine belt.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e-rein-chc0609

You can do the first 2 yourself for free. The belt you can also do or invite a mechanic to do it in your garage. The belt is a potential engine killer so at 75-100k that has to come out.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-kit-adk0022p

You could also buy one of the protective braces for the crankshaft seal like below if you want to eliminate any chance of engine failure.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...waAuyzEALw_wcB

Front tie rods/control arms probably will need replacement and shocks too by the time you get to 200k

[Pace885]

I'm at 197765 I have no issues except oil's leaks from the oil pan and valve cover gasket and I guess filter housing :

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I got one with the guts stuck in the fender ...

are those the dynamic XENONS? OUCH

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by Richwm

2006 330i sport, 6 Mt 250k miles.
Valve tick since 50K
Oil changed every 6-7K
Coolant every 2 years
Spark plugs every 50K miles
M3 control arms every 60-80K
BMW Performance Brakes at 107k and 214K
M-sport shocks and struts at 135K
Water pump and thermostat replaced at 153k no failure just replaced.
Fuel pump and filter replaced at 188k no failure just replaced.
#2 Coil failed at 191k replaced all 6.
MAF sensor and MAF connector replaced at 248K. IAT temp failure.
I drive 100 miles a day and drive hard 6k RPM shifts are not uncommon for me.
Original clutch with CDV deleted at 10k

I hope to make it to 350K + like Efthreeoh

Do you still get valve tick? or any other tick? Been the same since 50k but do you think it will hurt in the longer run LOL

[2one3E90]

330i with 195,000 miles and Lci 328i with 143,009 miles. Both feel and drive great. Interior is very high quality and there meant to be driven in . Engine transmission on both of my e90s are smooth. My manual e90 shifts perfectly and at 195,000 miles I already ordered parts to refresh the shifter and got a BMW performance short shift kit. It feels more comfortable with ORIGINAL SPORT SUSPENSION AT THAT MILEAGE than my Bilstein B4 Equiped 328i. My 328i gets tracked and autoX every 3 months. Also it gets driven hard and sees 7000rpm daily. It is a auto but I do use the manual mode in driving situations like twisty roads or passing a car on a highway. The auto shifts perfect for traffic and day to day driving. Did the fluid change once only. Im thinking of doing it again. When its cold out and the first 5 min of driving. If i come to a stop it sometimes vibrates or and the engine rpm fluctuates. I put it in neutral and it goes away. But after it gets warmed up, it doesnt do it anymore. Been a year since it does it LOL. Still feels the same since i got it if not faster AHHAHA. I have to say im very happy with these cars and as a young lad it is the highlight of my day driving these to many places and being able to just enjoy such a perfect car.

[Greyfox]

200k? Easily... mine is 807 miles from 300k.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Greyfox

200k? Easily... mine is 807 miles from 300k.

Yeah baby!

[Mosaud1998]

Mine is 28k miles away from 100k miles

Give me like 5 years to hit 100k miles

[Greyfox]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Yeah baby!

Don't be jumping too soon... it's taken me a year to go 1200 miles since I've been teleworking.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Greyfox

Don't be jumping too soon... it's taken me a year to go 1200 miles since I've been teleworking.

I'll take it for a week.