Sos, sound & controller help

Jklad · 09-07-2020, 01:29 PM

2007 6spd e92 155k Miles logic 7 and nav 03/07 build, ccc (grey knob with menu button)

I received the sos light and the following no longer work:
-sos
-Bluetooth
-no chimes
-no sound from music
-idrive controller
-volume knob doesn't adjust volume
-steering wheel volume doesn't work
-time and date show dashes on nav screen. (They are fine on dash)

What does work:
-nav screen loads maps and follows my location accurately on map as I drive. (Idrive Controller doesn't do anything though)
-mode button flips modes (eg radio, aux, cd), but no sound / music

Anyone know what's wrong, or where to start? I tried checking all fuses and battery is new and coded.

ctuna · 09-07-2020, 01:42 PM

Start by looking for water on the amp.
Then read the amp led's if there is no water there.
State which options you have that require trunk modules
like bluetooth ,SOS , Satalite Radio.
If the satellite or bluetooth modules go bad in logic 7 system
it will kill all sound, of course the amp going bad will to.

Logic 7
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837
http://www.bmwgm5.com/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666

Jklad · 09-08-2020, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Start by looking for water on the amp.
Then read the amp led's if there is no water there.
State which options you have that require trunk modules
like bluetooth ,SOS , Satalite Radio.
If the satellite or bluetooth modules go bad in logic 7 system
it will kill all sound, of course the amp going bad will to.

Logic 7
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837
http://www.bmwgm5.com/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...8;d=1260829447
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...2A&cad=rjt
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666

Using the information above, I checked the christmas tree components and found the following:

-no water in the trunk
-amp is flashing yellow light (I did not detach it or disconnect the red light plug, didn't feel like taking apart trunk liner yet).

-tcu plug flashing red
-sat tuner is flashing red
-termination point under dash is solid red

What should my next steps be? Does this indicate anything?

ctuna · 09-08-2020, 07:17 PM

Blinking yellow means AMPLIFIER IS WORKING and getting input signal from the head unit, but output signal is somewhere lost due to the next bad unit in the loop. So you just need to find a bad unit and either bypass it or replace it with a working one. Most common units to fail are: Sirius satellite unit, Bluetooth telephone unit

right from the other link

Jklad · 09-09-2020, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Blinking yellow means AMPLIFIER IS WORKING and getting input signal from the head unit, but output signal is somewhere lost due to the next bad unit in the loop. So you just need to find a bad unit and either bypass it or replace it with a working one. Most common units to fail are: Sirius satellite unit, Bluetooth telephone unit

right from the other link

Thanks - here's what i'm finding after using an Optic jumper:
-plugging jumper into Optic connector for TCU, i regain control of my idrive controller and can navigate the menus. SoS error light stays on. I cannot hear chimes or music from speakers when i switch to entertainment modes. i was finally able to navigate the menus and reset my tpms since i installed new tires last week after the electronic issue. the amp stayed flashing yellow indicating a failure down the chain.

-the jumper from bmw is too small to fit the sat tuner optic connector. not sure why mines different size than in your video.

Questions:
-are you saying that there are additional optic connectors/components that i should be looking at, aside from just the tcu, and the sat tuner that i see in the trunk?

-what next steps do you recommend at this point? I've read through the 41 page document and all the other links and tried to follow as best i could.

Thank you

ctuna · 09-09-2020, 12:15 PM

Your using a Radio Frequency ID Loop makes no sense.
Your creative terminology is not needed.
Optic connector on module and optic jumper .
Unless you are on a different planet.
Its and optic loop.

the optic jumpers are cheap on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/RENYIAO-Bypas...TWVZYFNQVJGYGN

If you have a TCU and a Mulf there are two optics connectors there
the Mulf is under the TCU.
Then if you have a satellite module that is another connector .
The standard thing to do is move a jumper through one module location at
a time and see which one makes a difference .
I guess all of them could be bad at the same time.
In addition the Fiber cables themselves could be bad at some point.
There was one case where Rats had eaten through some of the cables
in one guys car.
You can test the cables by shinning a light source though one end to see if
the light comes out the other end.
There is also a test point under the dash that has a jumper that must be plugged
in.

All the information is in those links if your read them .
When you bypass a module it should be obvious that
the functions of that module will cease to function.
TCU = SOS and bluetooth
Mulf = bluetooth phone and usb with mulf 2
Combox =bluetooth phone and usb and streaming music with the right option
programmed in on an idrive car.

Do you have pictures of where you are trying to put in these jumpers.
I can see how any of these jumpers would limit your abitlity to navigate
the menus in the idrive the functions associated with the modules would
not work because those functions are on the modules.

Jklad · 09-09-2020, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Your using a Radio Frequency ID Loop makes no sense.
Your creative terminology is not needed.
Optic connector on module and optic jumper .
Unless you are on a different planet.
Its and optic loop.

the optic jumpers are cheap on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/RENYIAO-Bypas...TWVZYFNQVJGYGN

If you have a TCU and a Mulf there are two optics connectors there
the Mulf is under the TCU.
Then if you have a satellite module that is another connector .
The standard thing to do is move a jumper through one module location at
a time and see which one makes a difference .
I guess all of them could be bad at the same time.
In addition the Fiber cables themselves could be bad at some point.
There was one case where Rats had eaten through some of the cables
in one guys car.
You can test the cables by shinning a light source though one end to see if
the light comes out the other end.
There is also a test point under the dash that has a jumper that must be plugged
in.

All the information is in those links if your read them .
When you bypass a module it should be obvious that
the functions of that module will cease to function.
TCU = SOS and bluetooth
Mulf = bluetooth phone and usb with mulf 2
Combox =bluetooth phone and usb and streaming music with the right option
programmed in on an idrive car.

Do you have pictures of where you are trying to put in these jumpers.
I can see how any of these jumpers would limit your abitlity to navigate
the menus in the idrive the functions associated with the modules would
not work because those functions are on the modules.

Sorry for incorrect terminology!

I need to find a larger size optic loop. The optic connectors for the amp and the sat tuner are slightly larger than the optic connector for the tcu.

Plugging the loop into the tcu results in changes observed in my previous post - I can use my idrive controller again but still no sound.

I don't see a mulf below the tcu, just empty space.

Pics attached

ctuna · 09-09-2020, 04:41 PM

As I recall the outer part of the connector detaches
from the inner part and is reconfigurable.

Jklad · 09-09-2020, 04:42 PM

Pics added -

ctuna · 09-09-2020, 04:59 PM

If you bypass all the upper trunk modules and no sound comes back
its likely the amp is bad. To bypass both at the same time you would need
two jumpers. The ytube video's are usually what solves this.

Jklad · 09-09-2020, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

As I recall the outer part of the connector detaches
from the inner part and is reconfigurable.

Of course it's something silly like that!! After detaching the inner part of the sat tuner optic connector and connecting it to the optic jumper loop, my sound, music, and chimes are all back along with all other functions and idrive controller!!

Is the sat tuner used only for satellite radio? If so, I never use it, so can I simply tape the jumper to the connector more securely and just not worry about it since all my other functions now work?

Jklad · 09-09-2020, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jklad

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

As I recall the outer part of the connector detaches
from the inner part and is reconfigurable.

Of course it's something silly like that!! After detaching the inner part of the sat tuner optic connector and connecting it to the optic jumper loop, my sound, music, and chimes are all back along with all other functions and idrive controller!!

Is the sat tuner used only for satellite radio? If so, I never use it, so can I simply tape the jumper to the connector more securely and just not worry about it since all my other functions now work?

To answer my own question, on p21 of the document it describes that the sat tuner enables digital satellite radio - see below. I never listen to radio or Sirius so I'm going to tape this off and move on with life. Thanks for the help and hope this helps somebody else.

ctuna · 09-09-2020, 05:33 PM

Siruis Satellite Radio is only for satelite radio it has nothing to do
with the Normal Fm Radio they are both entirely different things.

They are on entirely different circuits.

Jklad · 09-09-2020, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Siruis Satellite Radio is only for satelite radio it has nothing to do
with the Normal Fm Radio they are both entirely different things.

They are on entirely different circuits.

Even better! Thank you for the help, you're a genuinely great fellow and a boon to our community

darth_bimmer88 · 10-25-2020, 04:10 PM

First off- this thread is extremely helpful so thank you guys!

Second- I'm struggling with this issue and cannot pinpoint the problem still. I have the SOS malfunction with no sound, iDrive works as it should, but both my SAT and AUX radio options are grayed out even when I have a component plugged in for the AUX input.

Swapped in a different TCU at first and that didn't do anything. I started tracing the fiber optic loop and have light at each connection through the amp, to TCU, to SAT module, but not at the termination point under the dash. I purchased a bypass and still no light at the termination point under the dash. I even pulled apart the jumper and confirmed that when I put one end of the jumper to the SAT radio connector, I can see a light at the output end of the bypass jumper so it seems that the bypass is working as well, but still no light at the termination connection under the dash.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what could be happening here? I haven't done any work that would result in a break in the fiber optic cable anywhere on the drivers side...

ctuna · 10-25-2020, 05:14 PM

You did not say which sound system you have. Logic 7 or Hi Fi .

If you have the USB option 6FL there is and additional module undereath
the TCU that is also part of the Most Bus called the Mulf 2 HI
in an 08 car which I guess is what you have but you didn't state that.

the first thing to do is always check for water on the amp and then
read the amp LED's if you have Logic 7.

The process for isolating the problem is in all those previous entry's

darth_bimmer88 · 10-28-2020, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

You did not say which sound system you have. Logic 7 or Hi Fi .

If you have the USB option 6FL there is and additional module undereath
the TCU that is also part of the Most Bus called the Mulf 2 HI
in an 08 car which I guess is what you have but you didn't state that.

the first thing to do is always check for water on the amp and then
read the amp LED's if you have Logic 7.

The process for isolating the problem is in all those previous entry's

Sorry I forgot to add those details. I do have Logic 7 and there was no water on the amp. I can also confirm that the yellow light on the amp blinks.

I do have the USB connector in my center console, so I am assuming this indicates that I do have the Mulf 2 HI module, however from what I have seen above, it looks like the SAT module is the last module in the chain, and I do have a light on the fiber optic connector that feeds the SAT module, but no light where the connector terminates under the dash on the drivers side.

Is it likely that the Mulf 2 HI module is the one that has failed me?

ctuna · 10-28-2020, 09:46 PM

There is no order to the chain. It's a loop.
However the Head unit could be considered the start or sever.
So get and optical jumper and move it through all the positions.

Jklad · 10-30-2020, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

There is no order to the chain. It's a loop.
However the Head unit could be considered the start or sever.
So get and optical jumper and move it through all the positions.

This is what I did, when I placed it in place of the sat tuner all my sound worked so I had found my problem.

Also on mine, the termination point under the steering wheel was never lit.

kenballs · 11-01-2020, 07:30 PM

Does anyone what it means if my AMP is flashing a red light and has a steady yellow light?

ctuna · 11-02-2020, 12:53 AM

http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837

From the above link

Steady yellow means its getting input fiber optic signal from the head unit (CCC or CIC) and output signal travels to the head unit correctly through other units , so you should hear the sound in most cases, but rarely it also could be some software glitch with CCC, when you don't get sound with working amp. Try CCC reset.
Blinking yellow means AMPLIFIER IS WORKING and getting input signal from the head unit, but output signal is somewhere lost due to the next bad unit in the loop. So you just need to find a bad unit and either bypass it or replace it with a working one. Most common units to fail are: Sirius satellite unit, Bluetooth telephone unit

No Yellow LED, but you can see blinknig red LED deep inside most likely means 3 things:
amp is bad
no power getting to the amp check last 2 thick wires red and brown 12V should be present always, otherwise check fuses in the trunk.
No fiber optic input getting into the amp from head unit, but in this case you should see a red LED on for 15-20secs, this means amp is waiting for a signal and if no signal present it will go to sleep mode. Easy to check, you should see a blinking red LED in the CAR CONNECTOR with the amp fiber optic connector disconnected. If its blinking it means head unit is sending signal to the amp and amp CPU has to accept it and send the output signal back to other units and head unit eventually. Rarely, But if no red led present in the connector it means no signal is coming from the head unit due to either bad head unit or some fiber optic wire damage. If you remove head unit and you see a red light blinking, you should see the same blinking at the amp connector.

So basically you should get steady yellow LED at the amp, which will indicate the network is working, bypass not working modules and if amp is good you will get sound back to your car!

darth_bimmer88 · 11-08-2020, 04:05 PM

Ended up being the MULF unit on mine. Oddly enough, once the jumper was in all sound was back and Bluetooth functionality with my phone was restored, but I still don't have the AUX back so I will be getting a replacement.

09-07-2020, 01:29 PM	#1
Jklad Lieutenant Colonel 421 Rep 1,643 Posts Drives: 2007 335i Coupe Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Palatine, IL iTrader: (0)	Sos, sound & controller help 2007 6spd e92 155k Miles logic 7 and nav 03/07 build, ccc (grey knob with menu button) I received the sos light and the following no longer work: -sos -Bluetooth -no chimes -no sound from music -idrive controller -volume knob doesn't adjust volume -steering wheel volume doesn't work -time and date show dashes on nav screen. (They are fine on dash) What does work: -nav screen loads maps and follows my location accurately on map as I drive. (Idrive Controller doesn't do anything though) -mode button flips modes (eg radio, aux, cd), but no sound / music Anyone know what's wrong, or where to start? I tried checking all fuses and battery is new and coded. __________________ 2007 E92 335i MT
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

09-07-2020, 01:42 PM	#2
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Start by looking for water on the amp. Then read the amp led's if there is no water there. State which options you have that require trunk modules like bluetooth ,SOS , Satalite Radio. If the satellite or bluetooth modules go bad in logic 7 system it will kill all sound, of course the amp going bad will to. Logic 7 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432 http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837 http://www.bmwgm5.com/ https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447 http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605 Most http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727663 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222 https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+...VCkMqy2aCK09M: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19256760 https://www.teacremotes.com/bmwgm5/ Most test point http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222 BMW stereo types http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138949 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865 http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/ http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/ http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1169133185 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1278871872 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343673 This happens a lot here another recent one https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1753149 Last edited by ctuna; 09-07-2020 at 01:49 PM..
	Appreciate 1 Jklad421.00 Quote

09-08-2020, 07:17 PM	#4
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Blinking yellow means AMPLIFIER IS WORKING and getting input signal from the head unit, but output signal is somewhere lost due to the next bad unit in the loop. So you just need to find a bad unit and either bypass it or replace it with a working one. Most common units to fail are: Sirius satellite unit, Bluetooth telephone unit right from the other link
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-09-2020, 12:15 PM	#6
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Your using a Radio Frequency ID Loop makes no sense. Your creative terminology is not needed. Optic connector on module and optic jumper . Unless you are on a different planet. Its and optic loop. the optic jumpers are cheap on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/RENYIAO-Bypas...TWVZYFNQVJGYGN If you have a TCU and a Mulf there are two optics connectors there the Mulf is under the TCU. Then if you have a satellite module that is another connector . The standard thing to do is move a jumper through one module location at a time and see which one makes a difference . I guess all of them could be bad at the same time. In addition the Fiber cables themselves could be bad at some point. There was one case where Rats had eaten through some of the cables in one guys car. You can test the cables by shinning a light source though one end to see if the light comes out the other end. There is also a test point under the dash that has a jumper that must be plugged in. All the information is in those links if your read them . When you bypass a module it should be obvious that the functions of that module will cease to function. TCU = SOS and bluetooth Mulf = bluetooth phone and usb with mulf 2 Combox =bluetooth phone and usb and streaming music with the right option programmed in on an idrive car. Do you have pictures of where you are trying to put in these jumpers. I can see how any of these jumpers would limit your abitlity to navigate the menus in the idrive the functions associated with the modules would not work because those functions are on the modules. Last edited by ctuna; 09-09-2020 at 02:04 PM..
	Appreciate 1 Jklad421.00 Quote

09-09-2020, 04:41 PM	#8
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	As I recall the outer part of the connector detaches from the inner part and is reconfigurable. Attached Images Last edited by ctuna; 09-09-2020 at 04:55 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-09-2020, 04:42 PM	#9
Jklad Lieutenant Colonel 421 Rep 1,643 Posts Drives: 2007 335i Coupe Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Palatine, IL iTrader: (0)	Pics added - Attached Images __________________ 2007 E92 335i MT
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-09-2020, 04:59 PM	#10
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	If you bypass all the upper trunk modules and no sound comes back its likely the amp is bad. To bypass both at the same time you would need two jumpers. The ytube video's are usually what solves this. Last edited by ctuna; 10-25-2020 at 05:15 PM..
	Appreciate 1 Jklad421.00 Quote

09-09-2020, 05:33 PM	#13
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Siruis Satellite Radio is only for satelite radio it has nothing to do with the Normal Fm Radio they are both entirely different things. They are on entirely different circuits.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-25-2020, 04:10 PM	#15
darth_bimmer88 Not Broke Yet 12 Rep 48 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Coupe Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Milwaukee, WI iTrader: (4)	First off- this thread is extremely helpful so thank you guys! Second- I'm struggling with this issue and cannot pinpoint the problem still. I have the SOS malfunction with no sound, iDrive works as it should, but both my SAT and AUX radio options are grayed out even when I have a component plugged in for the AUX input. Swapped in a different TCU at first and that didn't do anything. I started tracing the fiber optic loop and have light at each connection through the amp, to TCU, to SAT module, but not at the termination point under the dash. I purchased a bypass and still no light at the termination point under the dash. I even pulled apart the jumper and confirmed that when I put one end of the jumper to the SAT radio connector, I can see a light at the output end of the bypass jumper so it seems that the bypass is working as well, but still no light at the termination connection under the dash. Does anyone have any thoughts on what could be happening here? I haven't done any work that would result in a break in the fiber optic cable anywhere on the drivers side... __________________ Installed some things... and stuff
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-25-2020, 05:14 PM	#16
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	You did not say which sound system you have. Logic 7 or Hi Fi . If you have the USB option 6FL there is and additional module undereath the TCU that is also part of the Most Bus called the Mulf 2 HI in an 08 car which I guess is what you have but you didn't state that. the first thing to do is always check for water on the amp and then read the amp LED's if you have Logic 7. The process for isolating the problem is in all those previous entry's
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-28-2020, 09:46 PM	#18
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	There is no order to the chain. It's a loop. However the Head unit could be considered the start or sever. So get and optical jumper and move it through all the positions.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-01-2020, 07:30 PM	#20
kenballs New Member 0 Rep 5 Posts Drives: bmw 228i Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: CA iTrader: (0)	Does anyone what it means if my AMP is flashing a red light and has a steady yellow light?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-02-2020, 12:53 AM	#21
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,102 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837 From the above link Steady yellow means its getting input fiber optic signal from the head unit (CCC or CIC) and output signal travels to the head unit correctly through other units , so you should hear the sound in most cases, but rarely it also could be some software glitch with CCC, when you don't get sound with working amp. Try CCC reset. Blinking yellow means AMPLIFIER IS WORKING and getting input signal from the head unit, but output signal is somewhere lost due to the next bad unit in the loop. So you just need to find a bad unit and either bypass it or replace it with a working one. Most common units to fail are: Sirius satellite unit, Bluetooth telephone unit No Yellow LED, but you can see blinknig red LED deep inside most likely means 3 things: amp is bad no power getting to the amp check last 2 thick wires red and brown 12V should be present always, otherwise check fuses in the trunk. No fiber optic input getting into the amp from head unit, but in this case you should see a red LED on for 15-20secs, this means amp is waiting for a signal and if no signal present it will go to sleep mode. Easy to check, you should see a blinking red LED in the CAR CONNECTOR with the amp fiber optic connector disconnected. If its blinking it means head unit is sending signal to the amp and amp CPU has to accept it and send the output signal back to other units and head unit eventually. Rarely, But if no red led present in the connector it means no signal is coming from the head unit due to either bad head unit or some fiber optic wire damage. If you remove head unit and you see a red light blinking, you should see the same blinking at the amp connector. So basically you should get steady yellow LED at the amp, which will indicate the network is working, bypass not working modules and if amp is good you will get sound back to your car!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-08-2020, 04:05 PM	#22
darth_bimmer88 Not Broke Yet 12 Rep 48 Posts Drives: 2008 335i Coupe Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Milwaukee, WI iTrader: (4)	Ended up being the MULF unit on mine. Oddly enough, once the jumper was in all sound was back and Bluetooth functionality with my phone was restored, but I still don't have the AUX back so I will be getting a replacement. __________________ Installed some things... and stuff
	Appreciate 0 Quote