[topsall]

Hi all. Frustrating problem here. I have a 2008 335i. Build date 11/2007.

Here's how it all began. I was doing the automatic coolant bleeding procedure, and I read it's good to hook the car up to a battery tender so the battery doesn't drain during the bleeding. Well, I don't have a tender, so I ran jumper cables to a pickup truck and ran the pickup truck while the bleeding process proceeded.

This may have not been a smart idea, I recognize. However, everything was generally fine after that (the car started and ran fine) except my iDrive controller no longer worked at all. So I thought to check fuses.

I pulled a single 10 amp fuse out of the fuse box, it looked fine, and I replaced it in the location I am pretty sure I pulled it from. Of course, in hind sight, I should have taken a photo of the fuse box before pulling the fuse, but again, I'm fairly sure I replaced it in the same location. The location in which the fuse was re-installed is circled in yellow in the photo below.



After pulling and re-inserting that single fuse, the car no longer starts. It cranks and cranks and cranks, but no start. The iDrive screen also shows "SOS call system malfunction!"

I have tried charging the battery on an external charger. Before I did that I was getting numerous errors on the iDrive screen (transmission, DSC, DBC, SOS, start-off assistance), but since charging the battery, I just get the ""SOS call system malfunction!" error. But still no start. I also tried jumping the car from another battery, which did not work.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what might have happened and what I can try next? Thank you!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by topsaul

... 2008 335i... I pulled a single 10 amp fuse out of the fuse box, it looked fine, and I replaced it in the location I am pretty
sure I pulled it from...Does anyone have any thoughts on what might have happened and what I can try next? Thank you!

Thoughts:
You have NO 10A fuse in the F4 fuse socket. That is the 4th socket from the left in the VACANT row to left of the fuse you have circled.
I would suggest removing the SPARE 10A fuse, in the horizontal row ABOVE your circled fuse, and inserting it in the vacant F4 socket.

THEN you will have power to the DME (Engine Control Module). The DME Main Relay will activate when you turn on the Ignition, and
the engine will Fire & Run normally when cranked by the Starter.

If that does NOT solve the issue, please let us know. ISTA circuit diagram & Location for F4 is attached.
George

[Bmw1939]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Thoughts:
You have NO 10A fuse in the F4 fuse socket. That is the 4th socket from the left in the VACANT row to left of the fuse you have circled.
I would suggest removing the SPARE 10A fuse, in the horizontal row ABOVE your circled fuse, and inserting it in the vacant F4 socket.

THEN you will have power to the DME (Engine Control Module). The DME Main Relay will activate when you turn on the Ignition, and
the engine will Fire & Run normally when cranked by the Starter.

If that does NOT solve the issue, please let us know. ISTA circuit diagram & Location for F4 is attached.
George

George is our resident electrical wizard. He is a big asset.

[Serf27]

It looks like that 10 amp fuse belongs 2 spaces to the left.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Bmw1939

George is our resident electrical wizard. He is a big asset.

Gotta say agree George is amazing and while I'm a pretty good DIYer (I think ) when it comes to electrical troubleshooting I do not have a lot of experience and having a reply form George is always appreciated gbalthrop Thanks!

OP, are you 100% sure your fuse was where you put it back because from your post it sounds like you put it back somewhere else. I would reference my fuse diagram and make sure it's where it's at there. Some fuse spots will be empty. EDIT: Nvm my fuse diagram shows me fuse I don't have... I swear the E9X fuse set up has got to be the worse.

[Serf27]

You can tell where a fuse is supposed to go by looking at the 2 female entry slots on the fuse box.
If there is metal pins on the both sides of the slots, most likely a fuse goes there.

OPs picture KIND OF shows 2 metal pins on the fuse box, 2 slots to the left of the yellow circle.

[topsall]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

... I would suggest removing the SPARE 10A fuse, in the horizontal row ABOVE your circled fuse, and inserting it in the vacant F4 socket. ...

George, you have solved it and I am back on the road sir. Thank you!

I pulled the 10A fuse from the yellow-circled slot and inserted it into the F4 slot that you recommended. I really have no recollection of pulling that fuse from the F4 slot, but the car starts right up now.

I am still getting the SOS error however. Also, my iDrive controller is still inoperable and I have no radio audio. The buttons below the CD drive work fine, i.e., I can cycle between audio modes, but no radio audio. Any further thoughts there? I think when I put a 10A fuse in the yellow-circled slot, the iDrive controller becomes operable (still no audio), but I'm not sure about that. I can confirm tonight and report back.

Thank you again. And thanks to others for their replies as well.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

... I would suggest removing the SPARE 10A fuse, in the horizontal row ABOVE your circled fuse, and inserting it in the vacant F4 socket...

Originally Posted by topsall

... I pulled the 10A fuse from the yellow-circled slot and inserted it into the F4 slot that you recommended. I really have no recollection of pulling that fuse from the F4 slot, but the car starts right up now.
I am still getting the SOS error however. Also, my iDrive controller is still inoperable and I have no radio audio...

Note that I suggested leaving the 10A Fuse in F14 Socket, BUT using SPARE 10A fuse (positioned in "horizontal" as opposed to "vertical" position, ABOVE fuses F11 - F15).

Reason for that is that, for 2008+ Models, F14 powers the CIC or Radio, depending upon Vehicle Options Installed. So I would suggest NOW removing the "horizontal" SPARE, and inserting it in F14 Socket which you earlier circled, and see what still does NOT work with Ignition ON.

If you continue to have an issue with your Radio/Audio (or anything else ;-), please enter your VIN into a VIN Decoder such as that linked below, and let us know what Audio Option you have, such as S676 Hi-Fi, or S677 Top Hi-Fi/ Logic7.
https://www.mdecoder.com/

George

[topsall]

Thanks George. I have a CCC iDrive, not the CIC. I also have the S677 radio option.

I will report back results tonight from inserting a spare 10A fuse in the circled F14 slot.

[topsall]

George, no change at all, with or without the spare 10A fuse in F14 slot.

With car in 'accessory' mode, I can use the iDrive controller. I get no audio though. I also get the SOS error.

With car in 'on' mode, I can not use the iDrive controller. No audio.

With car in 'start,' same as 'on' mode. No iDrive controller and no audio.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by topsall

... I have a CCC iDrive, not the CIC. I also have the S677 radio option...With car in 'accessory' mode, I can
use the iDrive controller. I get no audio though. I also get the SOS error. With car in 'on' mode, I can not use the iDrive
controller. No audio. With car in 'start,' same as 'on' mode. No iDrive controller and no audio.

My "SIMPLE" E91 does NOT have S677 or iDrive/ CID, so I'm NOT familiar with HOW that is supposed to work. My
understanding is that you have NO Sound from speakers at all.

Questions:
1) Does that include door open and Remote Key in Insert Compartment (present in vehicle if CA)? No warning gong
related to door open, seat belt NOT fastened, etc?

2) Does Radio Control Panel Light-up & can you select Audio Input? Trying to isolate fault between the Head Unit & the Amplifier.
If Audio Input is normally selected via CID as opposed to Radio Panel display, I presume you have NO Input selection?

3) Do you have any Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) or Scan Tool that can identify Modules communicating/powered, and/or
view Fault Codes or Live Data in the Radio &/or CCC/M-ASK Modules?

4) Did you attach Truck Battery to E92 Jumpstart Terminals under the hood, or directly to Battery Terminals in trunk?

If you attached Jumper Cables directly to the Battery Terminals, you MAY have damaged the IBS, and that MAY have
resulted in 30G-F Terminal (Relay) NOT powering Fuse F56 as & when it should. (Just a SWAG -- need testing ;-).

So if you have NO Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software that can help diagnose as suggested above, then simply remove fuse
F56 and test for Voltage in Reference to Chassis Ground at BOTH fuse sockets with Ignition ON.

Hopefully, someone with CCC/M-ASK can offer better information.
George

[topsall]

1) Does that include door open and Remote Key in Insert Compartment (present in vehicle if CA)? No warning gong
related to door open, seat belt NOT fastened, etc?

I get no sound whatsoever from speakers. No warning gongs at all. I did hold down the SOS button a while back and heard ringing and a recorded hold message. But that is the only audio I have heard since this issue started.

2) Does Radio Control Panel Light-up & can you select Audio Input? Trying to isolate fault between the Head Unit & the Amplifier.
If Audio Input is normally selected via CID as opposed to Radio Panel display, I presume you have NO Input selection?

I can cycle through input modes using the mode button above the CD changer. But only CD and FM/AM radio are available. Satellite radio and Aux input modes are greyed out and not selectable.

3) Do you have any Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) or Scan Tool that can identify Modules communicating/powered, and/or
view Fault Codes or Live Data in the Radio &/or CCC/M-ASK Modules?

I have a Foxwell scan tool. I tried scanning various modules I thought might be associated with the issue. Following is what I got.

The scanner could NOT communicate with the following modules: ANTTU, ASK, CCC, CDC, IBOC, ISPB, MMI, NAV, RADIO, SECU1, TEL/MULF

The scanner COULD communicate with the following modules, and showed no faults: CID, ZBE, MOSTGW, ZGM.

4) Did you attach Truck Battery to E92 Jumpstart Terminals under the hood, or directly to Battery Terminals in trunk?

I attached jumper cables to the jump start terminals under the hood.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

... So if you have NO Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software that can help diagnose as suggested above, then simply remove fuse
F56 and test for Voltage in Reference to Chassis Ground at BOTH fuse sockets with Ignition ON...

Sorry, my suggestion to test F56, and for Voltage supply TO F56 from 30G-F was NOT clear. See Below.

Originally Posted by topsall

... 1) No warning gong related to door open, seat NOT fastened, etc?
I get no sound whatsoever from speakers. No warning gongs at all. I did hold down the SOS button a while back and
heard ringing and a recorded hold message. But that is the only audio I have heard since this issue started.
2) I can cycle through input modes using the mode button above the CD changer. But only CD and FM/AM radio
are available. Satellite radio and Aux input modes are greyed out and not selectable.
3) I have a Foxwell scan tool. I tried scanning various modules I thought might be associated with the issue...
The scanner could NOT communicate with: ANTTU, ASK, CCC, CDC, IBOC, ISPB, MMI, NAV, RADIO, SECU1, TEL/MULF
The scanner COULD communicate with the following modules, and showed no faults: CID, ZBE, MOSTGW, ZGM.
4) I attached jumper cables to the jump start terminals under the hood.

The solution to the remaining issue MAY be as simple as fuse F56 being blown, OR something preventing power
supply to that fuse socket when Ignition ON. Sorry my earlier post was NOT clear. I NOW attach ISTA ScreenPrints
showing fuse F56 Location, Location of the Connector delivering power to the CCC/M-ASK (N38a), & Connector View.
ALSO attached is ISTA ScreenPrint showing location of intervening Connector, X1716, in power supply line to CCC.

Lack of Power Supply (12V+) at socket #15 of X13812 (X13812/15) at the Red/Green wire COULD cause your issue.
When a Module cannot be "connected to", that usually indicates a Power Supply issue OR Bus Fault (communication issue).

Please remember that I do NOT have CCC, and have NEVER removed anything from my dash, so I am "winging it" using ISTA.
George

[topsall]

Hi George, thanks very much for your continued assistance.

I just checked fuse 56, both visually and with an ohmmeter, and it is GOOD unfortunately. I also checked all the fuses which, according to my fuse box card, are associated with the display icon (18, 19, 56, and 76) or the radio icon (14, 15, 18, 19, 27, 42, 56, 63, and 76). All of those fuses are good too.

For what it's worth, this morning on my drive into work, I got several NEW errors on my screen. Those are as follows:

--Driving stability! Drive moderately
--DBS malfunction! Drive carefully
--Start-off assistance inactive!
--and an ABS error (I don't remember the exact text)
--(plus the SOS call system malfunction error, which I've had all week)

The car drove fine into work however. Note, as mentioned in my first post, I had these new errors a week or so ago before I put the battery on a charger. Now they are back. I replaced my battery right around two years ago. It's an H6 AGM, 760 CCA.

[topsall]

gbalthrop, in light of my post above, do you think these remaining issues could be due to a bad battery? If so, I will pick up a new one and give it a shot. Thanks.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by topsall

gbalthrop, in light of my post above [Post #14], do you think these remaining issues could be due to a bad battery? [NO] If so, I will pick up a new one and give it a shot. Thanks.

My Suggestions:

1) Regarding the Warnings/Lights for DSC & ABS, if your Foxwell Scan Tool can connect to the DSC Module, please provide fault code(s) read in that module. A wiring issue between the DSC Module (next to Brake Fluid Reservoir) and a Wheel Speed Sensor (at each wheel) is most likely cause of DSC "shutdown". Fault Code will be "wheel-specific" to suggest what to test NEXT.

2) Test for Power to CCC/M-ASK Module, AND K-CAN bus connections. If your Audio/Amp fuses are all OK, you MAY have a wiring or connector issue that is preventing power from a fuse getting to a Module, such as power from fuse F56 getting to CCC/M-ASK Module (N38a). Also, if your Scan Tool CANNOT connect to a Module, that could be due to an issue in the bus (K-CAN) connection, such as the Orange/Green and Green K-CAN wires that connect to CCC/M-ASK at X13812/11 & X13812/9.

3) Quickest/Easiest way to test for power supply and bus activity is to separate Connector X1716 located in Driver Footwell as shown in 3rd ScreenPrint attached to Post #13. That is a 6-pin connector. Power is supplied from F56 via Red/Green wire at Socket #1 (X1716/1). Bus/Data connections are Orange/Green wire at Socket #3, and Green wire at Socket #4.

That "Intermediate" Connector, X1716, has been reported to be damaged by water, foot contact, etc., so I would inspect its pins & sockets carefully for any issue.

I don't have CCC or S677 Logic 7, so can't offer anything but evaluation of the ISTA wiring.
George

[Evilbean]

Hey guys, diagnosing three separate problems and wondering if they all may be related. Focusing on the iDrive controller for now though, the knob doesn’t work in the buttons don’t work and I replaced it with two separate modules that I know are good. I’ve checked all the fuses in the fuse box and I’m wondering if it’s possible that when I was having my car repaired somebody put the wrong fuse in the wrong spot. I have no idea if it’s possible to look at this image and tell me if something looks off. But it would be appreciated.

2006 330xi manual. If all my fuses are fine, I really think the problem lies in either X9331 or X1716 near the foot pedals

[ChloeJane]

I’m sorry to jump on this thread but unable to post my self and having such issues with the fuse box! Can anyone help me?!