[AoS810]

Hi e90post,

I have a 2008 E90 328i N51 w/ 129,000 miles under SULEV warranty.

I dropped my engine splash shield to replace the engine mounts because I was getting a very bad vibration at idle. I was expecting that the engine mounts at 129,000 miles were shot, but to my horror.. all 4 aluminum bolts of the engine mount support which connects the engine mount support to the engine itself have sheared off..

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=22_0113

The bolts are #7 in the above link. The bolts have broke off without any parts sticking out for me to easily grab onto.. how f***ed am I? I'm afraid to extract the bolts myself incase I accidently damage the engine block.

Is there a service bulletin on this? If so, is this covered under warranty? I'm at that point where I'm debating on just paying someone to do this or if e90post gives me a confidence boost I'll tackle it myself.

I found this online that states theres a service bulletin #SI B22 01 10 but I can't find it.. https://integrityfirstauto.com/bmw-e...51-n52-engine/

I've attached some pictures for you guys of my lovely situation:

View post on imgur.com

I'm thinking I need to use my engine support bar (harbor freight), hoist up the engine. Remove the black v-brace at the bottom of the subframe that is used to jack up the front of the car. Then remove the 6 front subframe bolts and any other items that are preventing me from dropping the subframe enough to remove the passenger side engine mount support. Then its time to extract the 4 broken aluminum bolts. Once I fix the passenger side, I'm gonna do the driver side too just because and also replace the engine mounts and transmission mounts.

I'd greatly appreciate input on how to proceed with fixing this!

Thanks,

- James

[PichaDis11]

You sir just presented a problem that I may have on my e90. (Hindsight you may have jinxed me lol).

But I think you should be able to tackle it with a good extraction kit and cutting oil. However, If you aren't comfortable with a drill etc ; you should have a pro do it. There are good chances of making this even worst.

[AoS810]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

You sir just presented a problem that I may have on my e90. (Hindsight you may have jinxed me lol).

Haha I'm sorry! Update, I was able to remove the engine support bracket and it was actually 3 of 4 bolts that were sheared off. This work area is extremely cramped.. I haven't attempted to remove the sheared bolts yet because I can't get the right angle to confidently ensure I will be drilling straight, and not accidentally drill into the engine block.

I am struggling to get the subframe to drop lower, I undid the two E-torx bolts that hold the steering rack in place, but I didn't undo the sway-bar and I didn't remove my front wheels because I'm doing this on ramps. Is not removing the front wheels restricting me from dropping the subframe?

I'm following this DIY for steps to drop the subframe: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180020

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by AoS810

Haha I'm sorry! Update, I was able to remove the engine support bracket and it was actually 3 of 4 bolts that were sheared off. This work area is extremely cramped.. I haven't attempted to remove the sheared bolts yet because I can't get the right angle to confidently ensure I will be drilling straight, and not accidentally drill into the engine block.

I am struggling to get the subframe to drop lower, I undid the two E-torx bolts that hold the steering rack in place, but I didn't undo the sway-bar and I didn't remove my front wheels because I'm doing this on ramps. Is not removing the front wheels restricting me from dropping the subframe?

I'm following this DIY for steps to drop the subframe: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180020

I'd to remove the wheels in order to give your self some wiggle room to maneuver around if needs be. Shed some weight off the struts as well. I'm not sure how much you'd be able to drop the sub-frame though. Would it be better use to remove the subframe altogether?

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

You may be able to get them out with a long punch angled just right.

[smass]

Broken bolts in the block usually come out easily. Especially for a CA car. Start with a pick and see if they will spin out by hand. If not then go to a reverse thread 1/8" drill bit. The bit will go in slightly and bite causing the bolt to spin out.

[Socket]

they should drop out easily if you drop the subframe
have replaced my engine mounts two or three times
Dont need to take off wheels afaik

[AoS810]

Update! All fixed, took it to a trusted shop in OC that I've previously been to and they were able to get the sheared bolts out pretty quickly. Since they dropped the subframe I asked if they could replace the engine mounts and all surrounding hardware while they're in there and they agreed without extra charge .

I am bringing my car back for them to adjust the steering because they disconnected the steering joint(?) when they dropped the subframe and my steering wheel is now a tiny bit off from centered when going straight on the highway. Is there an easy way to adjust this myself? i.e. if it's just a simple bolt adjustment etc.

If you're getting an abnormal vibration at idle, definitely pull off the engine splash shields and check before you assume its just failed engine mounts as it could potentially be sheared engine mount support bracket bolts. My mounts at 129K miles seemed perfectly fine, but at that mileage good to switch out anyway.

*EDIT* Found the below 2 DIYs for steering wheel adjustment. I saw the shop turn my wheels while the steering joint thing was disconnected.. hope that didn't affect my total toe! I'm not knowledgeable about this enough to determine if it will or not.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ustment&page=2
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...eel+adjustment

[mikebmx]

I know this is an old thread but thought it could help someone. I went in search of why my E90 Passenger Axle randomly popped out. I put new control arms and ball joints along with a new Axle since I was pulling it apart. It did it again the very same day I put it back together. Upon further inspection I could see the bracket to the motor mount had sheared the lower bolts and separated from the block. I was able to move the bracket around by hand to discover the top bolts were gone as well. In all the work I had just done I did not notice this bracket being loose. The vehicle had a little engine vibration the entire time I owned, which hasn't been long. I bought it as a non running vehicle that I have been slowly bringing back to life. I didn't think the vibration was so bad that I was going to drop the subframe and put new mounts in. Anyway I created a video to show a little about what I'm talking about and how I tackled it. I hope it helps someone in the future. I have seen several other posts about this snce I began searching for a fix. The bolts were not to tough to get out and it was actually fairly easy to replace the motor mount without lowering the subframe since the axle was out and I had most of the control arms off and out of the way. Subscribe if you'd like, I'm new to posting videos but I pull apart so many German cars I might start doing more if I think it will be helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=225HgwdxvaY&t=3shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=225HgwdxvaY&t=3s

[ricx]

I got a vibration on my 328, 109k miles, the rubber in the mounts looks fine. Can you see if the mounting bracket bolts are sheared if you removed the tires?

[AoS810]

Originally Posted by ricx

I got a vibration on my 328, 109k miles, the rubber in the mounts looks fine. Can you see if the mounting bracket bolts are sheared if you removed the tires?

You won't be able to get a view by removing just the wheel/tires. Maybe with wheel fender liner? Best is to jack the car up and remove the splash shield then you can see it all.

[ricx]

Done that didn't see mounting bracket. Removing the wheel well fender may give me a view of it, thx.