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      08-22-2010, 12:14 AM   #1
spiike32
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2007 CPO 335i... walk away?

So I've been calling/emailing a dealer and they are insistent that their price is fair.

2007 335i, CPO, sport and premium package, 36k miles, manual, 1 owner, excellent condition.

The car was listed at $35k, I initially offered $30k, and they want to meet halfway. Is this unreasonable? I see on here that people are paying much less, but I'm not sure if it would be considered rude or lowballing to ask for 28-29k.

Just learned about Galves, and I was astonished with what is reported on there... because the KBB on this car is right around $33k.

thanks in advance,
spiike

Last edited by spiike32; 08-22-2010 at 12:30 AM..
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      08-22-2010, 01:13 AM   #2
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I think 30K is more than reasonable. I would wait and look around and you will find one at that price.
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      08-22-2010, 02:24 AM   #3
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i would say 29k is too high considering it only has 2 options and no navi. 28k is reasonable.
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      08-23-2010, 09:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32 View Post
So I've been calling/emailing a dealer and they are insistent that their price is fair.

2007 335i, CPO, sport and premium package, 36k miles, manual, 1 owner, excellent condition.

The car was listed at $35k, I initially offered $30k, and they want to meet halfway. Is this unreasonable? I see on here that people are paying much less, but I'm not sure if it would be considered rude or lowballing to ask for 28-29k.

Just learned about Galves, and I was astonished with what is reported on there... because the KBB on this car is right around $33k.

thanks in advance,

spiike
I looked at a 07 CPO E92 335i a few months back. The car had 21k nav, prem, cold, sport etc and I could have got it for 28k. I would have taken a bath on my car so I decided not to go for it. I would say that you can do better. Good luck.
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      08-23-2010, 10:33 AM   #5
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You can do way better...first step: don't look in Chicago.

Broaden your search, I bought mine in Madison, WI and live in Detroit.
Got mine for less than $30k with more options although about another 6k miles on the clock. $32.5k is at least $3k more than you should be spending IMO.
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      08-23-2010, 10:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32 View Post
So I've been calling/emailing a dealer and they are insistent that their price is fair.

2007 335i, CPO, sport and premium package, 36k miles, manual, 1 owner, excellent condition.

The car was listed at $35k, I initially offered $30k, and they want to meet halfway. Is this unreasonable? I see on here that people are paying much less, but I'm not sure if it would be considered rude or lowballing to ask for 28-29k.

Just learned about Galves, and I was astonished with what is reported on there... because the KBB on this car is right around $33k.

thanks in advance,
spiike
Is it an E90 or E92?
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      08-23-2010, 11:45 AM   #7
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A good price is that price which represents all of the following:
  • it is a single price, not a range of prices
  • it is the only amount you will pay for a given car
  • it is a price that allows the dealer to make a profit

The way to negotiate and buy at a good prices is to know the price you want to pay and know that that price has profit in it for the dealer.

With that known, you tell the salesperson:

I see you have this car priced at (such and such). I cannot afford that much. I will pay X-dollars for it and I am willing to sign the deal now.

They will always counter offer, because not to do so would be a stupid thing on their part. When they counter, tell, them:

Well, thanks for your time, but that's more than I can spend. Goodbye.

Key success factors for this technique to work:
  • The amount you offer must have profit in it for the dealer! I don't know how you can actually figure that out buying a used car. I guess you can go with what KBB or some other such group suggests is a good price.
  • Research the car you want with the options you want. The only options that actually matter in used car pricing are: Leather, transmission, Navigation system, wheels, and suspension. Everything else doesn't really change the car's build or character.
  • Do not use this tactic if you are not ready to buy the instant you make your offer. This is critical because a deal now means something to a dealer. A deal anytime after now is a deal that is at risk for all sorts of things to change your mind.
  • You must not haggle. You made an offer because it's what you have (or want) to spend. If you haggle using this technique, you have thrown away your credibility because nobody who has a specific sum that is what they said they can afford to spend will agree to pay more than they can afford to spend. (Well, some people obviously do agree to spend/buy more than they can afford; those people default on their home loans.) This means also that when you get into the finance guy's office, you must decline the crap he offers to sell you, again, because it will cause you to spend more than you said you could afford. If you wanted the extended warranty/service plan, you must have stated that as part of your offer. Everything else this guy will offer you isn't worth buying anyway.
  • You must negotiate on one and only one car. The reason is that when you offered a price on the first car, you told them how much you have to spend. Switching you to a different car allows them to match the money you have to spend (you said how much it is above) with the profit they want to make. At that point, the negotiation becomes one of "this car is worth this much and that car is worth that much," and you won't come out ahead in that sort of negotiating situation.

    If you are willing to buy any 335 they have, your initial offer should instead say:
    I want a (insert year) 335i (insert sedan, coupe, xdrive, or deisel) having no more than (x miles) and such and such options on it. I am willing to pay x-dollars, (including/not including) the extended service plan/warranty, for it and I will buy it now. What do you have that fits my guidelines?

    Again, when they counter. You will say:
    Well, that's more than I have to spend. Thanks for your time. Goodbye.

Now you leave or ask them to call a taxi for you.

Unless I'm trading in a car, I go to the dealership without a means of transport to get home. Why? Because it reinforces the fact that I went there fully intending to buy a car and confident about the money I was offering. I have never had to go home from the dealership in anything other than the car I intended to buy.

I can absolutely guarantee you that if they have a car that fits your guidelines, and that they the can make money on, they will not let you walk out of the dealership because you told them you are willing to buy now. If they let you walk out it can be for only two reasons:
1 - They can't make money on your offer.
2 - They don't have a car you want to buy.

The reason this is so is simple: the dealer is in business to make money.
1 - There is a specific car you want and it is on their lot.

2 - You have money to spend on a car on their lot.
3 - You are willing to buy that car now.

Remember, you are conducting a business transaction rather than making a "feel good" purchase. The simple fact is that NO dealer having a clear opportunity to make money now will risk letting some other dealer earn that money.

(Here's a post I wrote that discusses the economics of car dealerships. It'll be good reading if you want to maximize your negotiating position and power. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=418219&page=2)
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      08-23-2010, 12:00 PM   #8
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I got mine for 30k out the door with tax
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      08-23-2010, 02:37 PM   #9
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FWIW I just picked up a CPO 335i with just under 30k miles and the sport and cold weather packages for just about $29.5k sans tax.

IMO I probably should have gotten it for smidge less but they put new rear tires and front brakes on it for me. Not to mention it looks like it never saw snow (amazing considering it was from southern NH).
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      08-23-2010, 06:24 PM   #10
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i got mine CPO last year, E90 335i with ZSP, premium, navi, 28k miles on the clock, listed $36.9k and i got it for $31.5k plus tax. so i would the car you are looking at doesn't worth of what they are asking.
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      08-23-2010, 09:50 PM   #11
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Thanks everyone, I'll walk away from this one. It is an e92, but from the feedback here, I'm so glad I posted here.

Tony, your post is invaluable info. I'll definitely keep this in mind.
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      08-24-2010, 04:32 AM   #12
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After posting almost the same question on this forum, I picked up a CPO E90 335i Sports, premium, USB,heated seats & fresh set of tires with 22k miles for $29K +tax.

It was a bit on the high side to pay - but they got me approved for 1.9% for 60 months through the BMW special offer. I could only get $14,000 @4% through the banks (not to mention many banks declined) because this is my first car loan.

Max
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      08-24-2010, 09:25 AM   #13
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The Galves trade-in (wholesale) value of a 2007 E92 335i with 6MT, Sport Package, Leather Trim (Premium Package), and 36k miles is:

$21,825
+ $1,500 (estimate) to recondition the vehicle.
+ $1,500 (estimate) for the 6yr/100k mile BMW CPO warranty (if applicable).
+ dealer overhead.
+ dealer profit.
= $ ________


IMO, you should pay no more than $27,500 retail for that car from a BMW dealer. It only has a few months of factory warranty remaining plus two years of “free” (minus deductable) CPO warranty, and the reliability on these cars hasn’t been all that stellar. That’s why their values are going down like lead Zeppelins. Your dealer is living in a fantasy world if he thinks a 4-year old E92 335i is worth anything close to $30k…
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      08-24-2010, 10:08 AM   #14
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[QUOTE=Agent11br;7876802]You can do way better...first step: don't look in Chicago.

[QUOTE]

+1
Your dealer seems out of touch with reality and ongoing market conditions. I used to be a salesman... the longer a car stays on the lot the dealer will likely negotiate more. If its a car that they just got last week... of course they want to sell it at a premium. Banks normally finance these for 45-60 days for the dealers.

Also I never entertained offers over the phone. Thats not serious buyers negotiate. Go there... and take your check book with you.
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      08-24-2010, 07:04 PM   #15
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"Unless I'm trading in a car, I go to the dealership without a means of transport to get home. Why? Because it reinforces the fact that I went there fully intending to buy a car and confident about the money I was offering. I have never had to go home from the dealership in anything other than the car I intended to buy."

Tony, I like your procedure as long as you are a strong person and will stick to your guns. Too many times, customers are either worn down or let emotions come into play and end up paying too much.

I have purchased my last 5 vehicles over the phone or via email; that includes an online credit app for BMW and Porsche. So an alternative is to utilize your strategy but conduct the transaction over the phone and/or email.

Dave
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      08-24-2010, 09:31 PM   #16
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I just got my 07-Sport/Prem 6-speed with 30k for $28. It was more than I wanted to pay for it, but it was what I was willing to pay for it. They got profit, I didn't pay sticker and I got the car I wanted in the price I was willing to pay.
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