[08-730d]

Yeah, you`re onto something. I was not sure when reinstalling, so i tried googling, but did not find anything useful.
I`ll have a look at it when i check for leaks soon.

Btw I think I have to visit a dealer to "program" the new one, as I still have a service reminder, that says "needs a new dpf, please contact dealer to get it replaced".
I tried resetting the CBS (service reminder) with a autel maxidas, but it did not go away . I also have a carly, but don`t think it can do it.

[08-730d]

Originally Posted by PerfectAce

BMW techinical specs for the 335d are:

1. Initial Tightening: 6 Nm
2. Loosen
3. Final Torque: 3 Nm

I assume it's the same for the X5d.

Thanks

[Chrisk530]

Originally Posted by DolphLundgrenade

So I'm a passenger until I can do one of two things with the 335d DPF... either replace it, the sensors and anything else that could have stopped it from regeneration or just bypass/delete the system. The problem is, while I'll maintain the current NC home as a rental, I'll be moving to Oregon. I don't believe that even the JR tuned ECU and delete will pass emissions there. Is there anyone else with a 335D that can share their Oregon emissions experience or advice? I'd really like to enjoy this car again, but there is just so many problems with the DPF/SCR/EGR/ that I know even fixing it will just come back another time to haunt me. If I can pass, I'll jump on it and get it done. I just need some local tips.

Not totally new to the forum btw, just couldn't remember which email I originally used. Had e46's for a long time before going to the e90 D. Love it other than the particulate filter! Thanks guys/gals!

Not sure if you moved already. But Oregon depends on what city. Portland, Medford, eugene, salem are all smog for sure. Klamath falls has none

[TheGailWay]

Do you have a list of gaskets/parts to replace before I start this project? I'd hate to stall the delete process waiting on a gasket or something. I see the turbo gasket mentioned, but nothing beyond that.

Yes, I already have the delete hardware.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by TheGailWay

Do you have a list of gaskets/parts to replace before I start this project? I'd hate to stall the delete process waiting on a gasket or something. I see the turbo gasket mentioned, but nothing beyond that.

Yes, I already have the delete hardware.

Turbo gasket should come with the downpipe. I've broken a bolt on a turbo clamp. Exhaust clamps might be rusty depending on where you are. Lower egr block off should come with a gasket. Then depending on how your deleting the egr, a block off on exhaust side and on intake side or a race pipe. Swirl flaps will have gaskets. Intake manifold will have gaskets. Really it I think

[BB_cuda]

This is the gasket i've used several times with success on back of 335d down pipe.
Vibrant 1458. Link to summit given below. 2 hole 3" diameter. X5 typically has the slip in style connection except for Rawtek. Rawtek is 3.5" so not sure what is used at back of a Rawtek.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...SAAEgI8KfD_BwE

[TheGailWay]

What did you do with the dpf EGR cooler?

[TheGailWay]

The pics where the EGR cooler delete is mentioned are no longer visible.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by TheGailWay

What did you do with the dpf EGR cooler?

You should of got a block off plate with your downpipe. You can't really see it unless you're under your x5

[TheGailWay]

That’s for the cooler on the front of the engine. I’m talking about the cooler bolted to the DPF with 2 coolant lines running to the front of the engine.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by TheGailWay

That's for the cooler on the front of the engine. I'm talking about the cooler bolted to the DPF with 2 coolant lines running to the front of the engine.

That's what I'm talking about. It's visible with the plastic trim removed in the engine bay, but the only other way to get to it is from under the x5. I think I actually went up in a space on the front side of the passenger axle to loosen the egr cooler bolts.

[peterj1982]

Hi! I’m working on my X5 delete. Have everything off. Got a JR Tune, Rawtek downpipe, egr block off, completely removed the egr cooler ect. I’m in the process of reassembly and I cant figure out which EGT sensor to plug back in. There are two connectors that plug in relatively close to each other. Any advice would be great.

[Googone20]

Can someone please describe how to get to the 4th top motor mount arm?? Currently deleting my buddies E70 and we can't even see how to get to it. We just deleted my F15 and it was easier to get the motor mounts out, and the DPF had more play once loosened up from the turbo.

[Yozh]

You remove exhaust, remove two brackets holding the DPF. At this point you have also disconnected all the EGTs and O2 from their electrical connectors. Also disconnected and unbolted DPF differential pressure sensor. Or cut the feed lines. Then you undo the v-band clamp so you can move the DPF a bit up and towards the pass side frame. Bolt is in a valley in the arm. Use a short socket and flex joints. Go from the pass side front wheel side with long extensions. Someone can help you guide the socket onto the bolt. So basically underneath the DPF that is slightly lifted and moved.

[Googone20]

We performed all of these steps, and I am telling you that socket does not fit in that valley. I don’t know if my buddies motor is just extra close to the body of something, but there is not enough play in the DPF to cheat it up and slip that socket in. I am blown away BMW didn’t provide a better way to service this DPF. The motor mount arm bolt should not be hidden and literally nearly impossible to access. The BS with this is a soon as we get to the bolt, this job will be done shortly after. Afterthought else is done or prepped for assembly.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by Googone20

We performed all of these steps, and I am telling you that socket does not fit in that valley. I don't know if my buddies motor is just extra close to the body of something, but there is not enough play in the DPF to cheat it up and slip that socket in. I am blown away BMW didn't provide a better way to service this DPF. The motor mount arm bolt should not be hidden and literally nearly impossible to access. The BS with this is a soon as we get to the bolt, this job will be done shortly after. Afterthought else is done or prepped for assembly.

Another way to do this is, a small socket+small extension+swivel->wrench. You'll need to have someone hold the dpf up or use your other hand to hold it out of the way, also make sure that you completely get that top dpf bracket out of there because you'll be able to lift the dpf out of the way more. Get the socket+small extension on the bolt then attach the swivel+wrench. It's tedious and requires feel, but it's not impossible. The nice thing is once it's loose, it comes out easy.

I agree, its a stupid design. I sat there and scratched my head an hour the first time I did it. I've done it twice and I'll have to do it a third time when I delete my x5d. I'm sure if I was shown how Yozh is explaining I might get it but my way works too.

[Yozh]

Yes, fully remove both brackets off the block. I also found it’s easier and gives a tad more room if you remove the heatshield that covers passenger side frame. Short socket, flex joint, long set of extensions. Under the DPF and from the front pass side of the wheel. Impact it to get loose.

[Googone20]

We got it. Pulling that upper bracket and sagging the subframe down was the key. Otherwise we didn't have enough room for the socket to fit in there. We completed the full project yesterday and my buddy drove it home without any issues. I will say we were extra confused when we went to install his Rawtech exhaust system. Unlike my F15 delete with the AAR exhaust system, the Rawtech changes the layout of the stock exhaust. You cut the stock system much further back near the rear axle. After we looked at it for 15-20 minutes, we realized that this was on pupose and not a mistake that Rawtech had made in making his setup. Lol!! Everything went well, and I now have performed two deletes on this vehicles in the last month. Both a F15 full exhaust, full delete Stage 2, and an E70 full exhaust, full delete Stage 2.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by Googone20

We got it. Pulling that upper bracket and sagging the subframe down was the key. Otherwise we didn't have enough room for the socket to fit in there. We completed the full project yesterday and my buddy drove it home without any issues. I will say we were extra confused when we went to install his Rawtech exhaust system. Unlike my F15 delete with the AAR exhaust system, the Rawtech changes the layout of the stock exhaust. You cut the stock system much further back near the rear axle. After we looked at it for 15-20 minutes, we realized that this was on pupose and not a mistake that Rawtech had made in making his setup. Lol!! Everything went well, and I now have performed two deletes on this vehicles in the last month. Both a F15 full exhaust, full delete Stage 2, and an E70 full exhaust, full delete Stage 2.

Glad it worked for you . I think some models years you need to cut and some you don't. The pre-lci x5d I did didn't need any cutting with the rawtech exhaust

Which x5d model year do you like better deleted? E70 or F15? Maybe do a side by side comparison with them and see which is faster?

[wcs531]

Does everyone replace the turbocharger to downpipe gasket (18307793678) with a new one when doing this? One was not included in my downpipe kit, but my turbos were recently replaced so its likely pretty new (thankfully an aftermarket warranty covered that one...)

Also did anyone remove the DEF tanks since they are just dead weight now? I was trying to find a diy for the e70 but no luck so far.

Thanks

[Yozh]

Yes and yes. Or just drain and flush.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Yes and yes. Or just drain and flush.

FWIW, I bought new metal ring that goes between DPF and turbo outlet. The damn thing kept falling off as i tried to put DPF back on. Somehow the original one was slightly bent differently where it wouldn't fall off when barely touched by the DPF as I was bringing it forward. I got pissed and put the old one back on. No leaks for >3 years. . My car only has 73,xxx miles though.

I still have the new one somewhere in my stores of parts.