[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by alex21074

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum, pleased to meet everyone on here! I am being offered a 2008 328xi by one of my co-workers for 500$. Before you guys freak out at the price, it obviously needs repairs. It has 240,000km, my co-worker owned it for two years, bought it for 7000$. Owner replaced front shocks and springs, starter, oil filter housing (no leaks there or on the valve cover gasket), two crankshaft positioning sensors, three coils and spark plugs, differential oil. Here's a rundown of the problems and repairs it needs, based on the pre-purchase inspection I paid for;

All 4 tires need replacing (only one OEM set of rims, R16's)
Brakes and rotors need replacing
Both front control arms on each side need replacing
Rear shock absorbers need replacing
A/C needs a refill (based on owner's words), A/C seems to work
Misfires on cylinders 1,2,3 (owner says needs engine coils and spark plugs)
stored code for oxygen pre-cat sensor and coolant temperature sensor
Current code for transmission oil wear (assume fluid was never changed)
needs alignment
needs battery replaced
Oil pan sweating (repair shop says small enough to pass safety inspection)

Owner serviced car at MrLube, but every 4000km (synthetic, but doubt it was LL-01)

Anyway, I know this is a lot of work to do, but I am planning to have this as a second car for fun and repair it myself (found a place where you rent the workshop with tools for 30$/hour in the GTA, my buddy who worked at a dealership offered to help for free). Some background info; 25yo, live in a condo (wish they had a place to hoist cars in the garage), my daily driver is a 2012 Volvo S60 T6, pretty trouble free in the 4 years that I've owned it, I do some work on it myself.

My question is this, do you guys think it's worth it to get this car for myself or not? I'm not planning to flip it or part it out, I'm a car guy and don't mind working on it myself.

I will offer you $800 for that car. Do we have a deal?

Also, could you share the name of the garage where you can rent a lift and tools?

[oVeRdOsE.]

if its a base model, automatic, leatherette interior and you're not a good DIY guy, I would pass.

But first, do a list on rockauto.

For BMW rockauto is the best.

i.e. : cv axle was around 600$ on ECS, germanparts, FCP, etc. and 100$ on rock auto. Imo, a 240k km 2008 car, dont worth go OEM.

As per other member stating, all parts DIY + alignment + tires , you're around a 3000$ job.... on a 3000$ car.

Even part out wont worth it, since there's ton in scrap yard nowadays.

Its a easy car to work with, tons of cheap parts available. Could be a nice project indeed is the car got some rare options.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

all boils down to whether you like the car or not. if you like it and like how it drives, then go for it, at this price it's reasonable.
would be better if it was a manual for easier resale if you decide to sell it after, but auto is okay, too

The car drives horrible because it needs repairs, but I know how well a bmw can drive. I'm just worried that the rough idle could be something more than ignition coil and spark plugs needed to be replaced.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by Jesda

So $3000 all together for a car that's been fully refreshed, assuming the interior can be cleaned and deodorized.

If you dont think you can get rid of the smell then pass on it. Or buy it and part it out.

I'm not worried about the small at all, I've found a substance that gets rid of smells, it's called ClO2, from what I've read it works very well. Not intending to part it out

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

I will offer you $800 for that car. Do we have a deal?

Also, could you share the name of the garage where you can rent a lift and tools?

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-commercial-o...ent/1476173786

Not flipping the car

[mecheng77]

Don't be a pansie, do it, thats a great deal. As is, its worth at least $1500.
Post some pics.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

if its a base model, automatic, leatherette interior and you're not a good DIY guy, I would pass.

But first, do a list on rockauto.

For BMW rockauto is the best.

i.e. : cv axle was around 600$ on ECS, germanparts, FCP, etc. and 100$ on rock auto. Imo, a 240k km 2008 car, dont worth go OEM.

As per other member stating, all parts DIY + alignment + tires , you're around a 3000$ job.... on a 3000$ car.

Even part out wont worth it, since there's ton in scrap yard nowadays.

Its a easy car to work with, tons of cheap parts available. Could be a nice project indeed is the car got some rare options.

Yeah, no matter how I calculate it, it's not worth it, it's pretty much a base model too. I was thinking of buying one with manual transmission and rear wheel drive for 3500, 230k km.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

Don't be a pansie, do it, thats a great deal. As is, its worth at least $1500.
Post some pics.

No way it's worth 1500, maybe in parts, or at an auction? I don't have pictures, it looks good from the outside anyway. The colour is SPARKLING GRAPHITE METALLIC

[K9Leader]

The transmission code is likely that the "lifetime" on the transmission fluid is really only 100K miles. At some point in the 125K range the warning will come on. I serviced mine at that point but have not figured out how to reset the code (I have Carly and I need to look into getting something that will allow a reset). I know the tranny oil is good for another 100k but, as a Type A, still having the code nags at me.

Sounds like a cool project but I agree that not having a dedicated garage where you can leave it while working on it may be a big hindrance.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by alex21074

just the parts (assuming used all seasons and battery) is about 2500$ CAD, I found a place 100km away from my house that has a hoist and all the tools needed for 30$/hour, I think 8-10 hours would be enough for the brakes and suspension. The rough idle is probably something that needs to be worked on from the top.

you can do an awful lot of wrenching in your driveway with just a jack and jackstands.

there's zero reason to go rent a lift to do basic brake and suspension work.

the only thing you really need one for is if you're planning on dropping the drivetrain with the cradle.

I've replaced transmissions in many a thing with nothing more than jacks and stands.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

The transmission code is likely that the "lifetime" on the transmission fluid is really only 100K miles. At some point in the 125K range the warning will come on. I serviced mine at that point but have not figured out how to reset the code (I have Carly and I need to look into getting something that will allow a reset). I know the tranny oil is good for another 100k but, as a Type A, still having the code nags at me.

Sounds like a cool project but I agree that not having a dedicated garage where you can leave it while working on it may be a big hindrance.

Won't Carly allow a reset? Or is that the full version? I actually ordered a carly module a couple of days ago

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by nsjames

you can do an awful lot of wrenching in your driveway with just a jack and jackstands.

there's zero reason to go rent a lift to do basic brake and suspension work.

the only thing you really need one for is if you're planning on dropping the drivetrain with the cradle.

I've replaced transmissions in many a thing with nothing more than jacks and stands.

Besides not having the jack, I don't think I have all of the tools needed to work on it. The tires need to be replaced and balanced too, the shop has those

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by alex21074

Won't Carly allow a reset? Or is that the full version? I actually ordered a carly module a couple of days ago

send it back and buy the bimmergeeks adapter and protool.

carly is trash, and there's no way I'd pay them a subscription every year for it.

and I've had the full carly program and adapter now for some time.

they're more focused on adding bullshit UI things to it to show you how much money you've saved (completely made up numbers BTW) rather than making functional improvements to the core software, or fixing known issues.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by nsjames

send it back and buy the bimmergeeks adapter and protool.

carly is trash, and there's no way I'd pay them a subscription every year for it.

and I've had the full carly program and adapter now for some time.

they're more focused on adding bullshit UI things to it to show you how much money you've saved (completely made up numbers BTW) rather than making functional improvements to the core software, or fixing known issues.

Wouldn't it be easier to just use inpa then? I just need to purchase the cable

[vilord]

rough idle could be spark plugs or coils, could be a vacuum leak, a gasket on the intake manifold, a bad or dirty mass airflow sensor, bad sensors in the intake manifold, clogged crankcase vent valve, damaged wiring, dirty injectors, clogged charcoal filter, stuck fuel tank vent valve... the list goes on.
most are uncommon, but for a 240,000km (150k miles) car, anything goes.

It also sounds like it wasn't terribly well maintained... so may have leaks in the OFHG & oil pan. power steering lines might be starting to rust if the control arms are rusting (mine were leaking before the accident), also the coolant lines and fittings might be ready for replacement.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by vilord

rough idle could be spark plugs or coils, could be a vacuum leak, a gasket on the intake manifold, a bad or dirty mass airflow sensor, bad sensors in the intake manifold, clogged crankcase vent valve, damaged wiring, dirty injectors, clogged charcoal filter, stuck fuel tank vent valve... the list goes on.
most are uncommon, but for a 240,000km (150k miles) car, anything goes.

It also sounds like it wasn't terribly well maintained... so may have leaks in the OFHG & oil pan. power steering lines might be starting to rust if the control arms are rusting (mine were leaking before the accident), also the coolant lines and fittings might be ready for replacement.

It wasn't maintained, hence why the price is so low. I think it would be better to look for a higher priced car that I actually like (at least a manual transmission), and if I want to use it only in the summer, it would make sense to start looking end of Jan/Feb for one, if I'll still have the urge to purchase one. Thank You for your answer.

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by alex21074

Won't Carly allow a reset? Or is that the full version? I actually ordered a carly module a couple of days ago

Yes, it should. That's probably a decent indication the fluid has never been changed either. I have a 2007 328xi with over 300,000 kms, and also bought mine when it had about 240k on the clock. Oddly enough, my vehicle had this "lifetime" fluid changed at least twice on the advice of the dealership (where PO had it serviced since Day 1).

When you say it drives like shit, are you speaking in general terms or referring to the transmission? I ask because, despite changing the fluid and filter in mine and even dropping the valvebody and installing a zip kit, it's very clear a replacement transmission is going to be required if I want to enjoy driving my car in the future... Currently it shifts very poorly. The good news is used transmissions aren't very expensive; the bad news is they are not easy to install.


Here's what I've learned from being on this forum though....

People here are insanely picky when it comes to their preferences and how they valuate cars. I think you've received some solid advice in this thread for sure––the initial price sounds fine, but depending on what other issues are lurking, things could add up quick.

If it were me I would pass.

I paid $3k for my car, which some would say is too high, but it was a one-owner, 100% dealer-service, and the inspection checked out. That's the only reason I bought it. My alternate option was a TSX, and frankly there's no comparison when it comes to the drive... I knew I'd have to spend money on maintenance, but at least I knew I wasn't starting off having to chase down a slew of issues.

Best of luck!

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by e90yyc

Yes, it should. That's probably a decent indication the fluid has never been changed, either. I have a 2007 328xi with over 300,000 kms, and also bought mine when it had about 240k on the clock. Oddly enough, my vehicle had this "lifetime" fluid changed at least twice on the advice of the dealership (where PO had it serviced since Day 1).

When you say it drives like shit, are you speaking in general terms or referring to the transmission? I ask because, despite changing the fluid and filter in mine and even dropping the valvebody and installing a zip kit, it's very clear a replacement transmission is going to be required if I want to enjoy driving my car in the future... Currently it shifts very poorly. The good news is used transmissions aren't very expensive; the bad news is they are not easy to install.


Here's what I've learned from being on this forum though....

People here are insanely picky when it comes to their preferences and how they valuate cars. I think you've received some solid advice in this thread for sure––the initial price sounds fine, but depending on what other issues are lurking, things could add up quick.

If it were me I would pass.

I paid $3k for my car, which some would say is too high, but it was a one-owner, 100% dealer-service, and the inspection checked out. That's the only reason I bought it. My alternate option was a TSX, and frankly there's no comparison when it comes to the drive... I knew I'd have to spend money on maintenance, but at least I knew I wasn't starting off having to chase down a slew of issues.

Best of luck!

The transmission shifts fine, it's the tires worn, brakes worn, and no alignment (steering wheel shifts to the right at speeds above 20). From what I've read in the forums, I think the best thing would be to wait until February (while researching the model here and there), and if I still have the urge to purchase one then, I'll do it. I already have a car that I'm happy with and won't sell, I know cars cost maintenance (put 2.5k in my volvo in 4 years, now I need new three-season tires), that's not a problem. Maybe doing some volunteering at a bmw shop would be better to see how they work?

[Bilbofraggins]

Originally Posted by alex21074

I was looking at the possibility of purchasing a donor car from an auction and stripping it, because the auto wreckers don't give good deals anyway, they ask 80$ for each control arm and 150-200$ for a used battery

We have a 2008 323i...with 160K (Km)....grab parts from Autoshack.com...and you can get most of your list completed for peanuts - if you do it yourself...or with some help...

Rock Auto for the rest....

We installed Autoshacks 4 corner strut package a couple years ago for 250 bucks CDN...and they have been no problem...

Change all the fluids...plugs and coils, filters...and get yourself a foxwell.

But if you have to pay dealer or a non-good deal indy to do your work...then I would not bother....

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins

We have a 2008 323i...with 160K (Km)....grab parts from Autoshack.ca...and you can get most of your list completed for peanuts - if you do it yourself...or with some help...

Rock Auto for the rest....

We installed Autoshacks 4 corner strut package in a couple years ago for 250 bucks CDN...and they have been no problem...

Change all the fluids...plugs and coils, filters...and get yourself a foxwell.

But if you have to pay dealer or a non-good deal indy to do your work...then I would not bother....

umm, autoshack.ca leads me to a godaddy website. Not all of the parts from a 323i are compatible with an AWD. I've seen the prices on rockauto, yes, i'll save maybe 300 dollars by buying the suspension parts from there, but but it'll still end up being market price, I don't know where the A/C leak is, and the waterpump is a b*tch to replace. For a car that isn't even the best spec (base, automatic, vinyl seats, no bluetooth or usb), I think it's better to look for a better package end of winter.

[Bilbofraggins]

Autoshack.com....

If you can round up the parts on the cheap and do the lions share of the work...then you would have a decent runner.

Our 323i was Mrs Daisy's (wifes) vehicle (my lads for 4+ years)...for 9-10 years had nothing but oil/filter and one fluid change....Following a BMW inspection a couple years ago where they throw in a years roadside for 60 bucks...we left with a 7K estimate repair bill worth its weight in gold...We attacked the list for under 2k. It was worth it...and even though its not an XI, it has always driven well in the winter here in NB coupled with good tires.

[alex21074]

Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins

Autoshack.com....

If you can round up the parts on the cheap and do the lions share of the work...then you would have a decent runner.

Our 323i was Mrs Daisy's vehicle (my lads for 4+ years)...for 9-10 years had nothing but oil/filter and one fluid change....Following a BMW inspection a couple years ago where they throw in a years roadside for 60 bucks...we left with a 7K estimate repair bill worth its weight in gold...We attacked the list for under 2k. It was worth it...and even though its not an XI, it has always driven well in the winter here in NB coupled with good tires.

I found some parts on that website like brakes and rotors, but I think It's better to pass on this car.