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      12-19-2018, 07:12 PM   #221
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I just did transmission oil, pan/filter, sleeve adaptor, and those rubber tubes (the name escapes me). My shifts are a lot better but the down shift 2-1 is still a bit bumpy. I should have done solenoids while in there but I told myself I wouldn't mind digging back in there a second time if need be. I can do it fast now, and alone (if you don't count the jack that helps me hold things when I unbolt). Lol.
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      05-09-2019, 12:13 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54Society View Post
I just did transmission oil, pan/filter, sleeve adaptor, and those rubber tubes (the name escapes me). My shifts are a lot better but the down shift 2-1 is still a bit bumpy. I should have done solenoids while in there but I told myself I wouldn't mind digging back in there a second time if need be. I can do it fast now, and alone (if you don't count the jack that helps me hold things when I unbolt). Lol.
i just did the exactly same. i had a transmission fault and limp mode, code 4f86, that's the reason i did it. but now i have the jerky 2-1 shift problem(not before), everything else seems to be fine. but i'm in no mood to go back in again to just change all the solenoids. it's too much hard work without an access to a lift. the jerk is not too noticeable. it's obvious to me because i've had the car for 4 years. if it throws no code, i'm gonna leave it alone and trying to sell the car.
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      05-09-2019, 12:39 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lche059 View Post
i just did the exactly same. i had a transmission fault and limp mode, code 4f86, that's the reason i did it. but now i have the jerky 2-1 shift problem(not before), everything else seems to be fine. but i'm in no mood to go back in again to just change all the solenoids. it's too much hard work without an access to a lift. the jerk is not too noticeable. it's obvious to me because i've had the car for 4 years. if it throws no code, i'm gonna leave it alone and trying to sell the car.
Yeah mine isn't very noticeable either.
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      05-20-2019, 02:18 AM   #224
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Guys I'm selling a set of solenoids that are brand new at a discount. Pm me for more info!
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      07-16-2019, 12:56 AM   #225
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Hello,
I've got a similar problem with my 330xd. But in my case it pops out from 2nd gear to 1st gear when doing a launch. This problem doesnt occur if I drive normally, just when full throttle. Any ideas what could be the problem?
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      07-16-2019, 11:39 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by Jocki99 View Post
Hello,
I've got a similar problem with my 330xd. But in my case it pops out from 2nd gear to 1st gear when doing a launch. This problem doesnt occur if I drive normally, just when full throttle. Any ideas what could be the problem?
This doesn't sound like the same problem...it actually sounds more like the car is down-shifting to get you more power for "launch"?
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      07-18-2019, 12:13 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
This doesn't sound like the same problem...it actually sounds more like the car is down-shifting to get you more power for "launch"?
Its not like the normal downshift to get more power. I dont really know how to describe it, It suddenly just pops out from 2nd to 1st gear almost putting the car at redline when entering 1st gear.
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      07-18-2019, 01:35 AM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jocki99 View Post
Its not like the normal downshift to get more power. I dont really know how to describe it, It suddenly just pops out from 2nd to 1st gear almost putting the car at redline when entering 1st gear.
When does the downshift happen? On deceleration, normal acceleration, moderate acceleration, hard acceleration? Can you describe more in detail what happens?
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      07-18-2019, 08:39 AM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
When does the downshift happen? On deceleration, normal acceleration, moderate acceleration, hard acceleration? Can you describe more in detail what happens?
Its only when you accelerate hard ir happens, when you drive normally there's no problem
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      07-18-2019, 12:20 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jocki99 View Post
Its only when you accelerate hard ir happens, when you drive normally there's no problem
It sounds like it might be a software issue. If it were a slipping clutch, which you normally notice with hard accelerations, it would just slip into neutral. But if it is actually shifting into a different gear, I look into software. I still think it might be solenoids...if you get on the accelerator hard and the car is trying to downshift but a solenoid is stuck, it won't shift until the solenoid breaks loose. And when the solenoid finally breaks loose to allow the shift, it will be a ROUGH shift.
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      07-18-2019, 12:22 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340Dude View Post
Guys I have a set of 7 ZF solenoids that are brand new in box. My dad got them for his 2006 325i but sold the car before fixing it. He paid $395 (have invoice) at CTSC a few years ago but it looks like the price came down some since. Shoot me an offer via PMs I rarely go on here anymore.
I know I'm a bit late to this party....do you still have the solenoids?
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      07-18-2019, 02:00 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
It sounds like it might be a software issue. If it were a slipping clutch, which you normally notice with hard accelerations, it would just slip into neutral. But if it is actually shifting into a different gear, I look into software. I still think it might be solenoids...if you get on the accelerator hard and the car is trying to downshift but a solenoid is stuck, it won't shift until the solenoid breaks loose. And when the solenoid finally breaks loose to allow the shift, it will be a ROUGH shift.
Okey, the weird thing is that it hasn't happened again after it did it a few times that day. But clearly there's something wrong that should get fixed. And thx for the help!
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      07-19-2019, 07:06 PM   #233
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You should read errors and maybe reset adaptations.

By the way, about adaptations reset, maybe Zigsman can answer my question: is it always necessary to perform the relearning procedure? Or adaptations can simply be reset and then drive the car normally?

A year ago I replaced solenoids and mechatronic sleeves on my 2006 330i tranny becasue of the famous 2th to 1th bump, and reset adaptations and permormed the relearn procedure, and car was going well. But 2 months ago, tranny started to shift hard sometimes, either upshifting or downshifting. So, I already replaced transmission fluid with Vaico, reset adaptations with INPA and performed the relearn procedure. But the issue was still there, so reset adaptations again with relearn procedure and got a little better but sometimes it shifts hard. For example, from 4th to 3th, I can feel the shift too much, like a bump. So I was wondering if the relearn procedure on free road is a must or it is not necessary if you drive most of the time in town. Maybe if I just reset and star driving it can learn how I drive. Or maybe I have been doing it wrong (the procedure).
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      07-19-2019, 07:57 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cala View Post
You should read errors and maybe reset adaptations.

By the way, about adaptations reset, maybe Zigsman can answer my question: is it always necessary to perform the relearning procedure? Or adaptations can simply be reset and then drive the car normally?

A year ago I replaced solenoids and mechatronic sleeves on my 2006 330i tranny becasue of the famous 2th to 1th bump, and reset adaptations and permormed the relearn procedure, and car was going well. But 2 months ago, tranny started to shift hard sometimes, either upshifting or downshifting. So, I already replaced transmission fluid with Vaico, reset adaptations with INPA and performed the relearn procedure. But the issue was still there, so reset adaptations again with relearn procedure and got a little better but sometimes it shifts hard. For example, from 4th to 3th, I can feel the shift too much, like a bump. So I was wondering if the relearn procedure on free road is a must or it is not necessary if you drive most of the time in town. Maybe if I just reset and star driving it can learn how I drive. Or maybe I have been doing it wrong (the procedure).
Sounds like the definition of insanity 😂

I suspect either A you fluid level is too low, or B your torque converter is starting to go.
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      07-19-2019, 08:50 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Sounds like the definition of insanity 😂

I suspect either A you fluid level is too low, or B your torque converter is starting to go.
I hope it's A. Car is 90k kms (56k miles), europe version. I don't know if a torque converter can fail at that mileage. Tranny shifts well except for that. No vibrations, no slipping issues.
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      07-19-2019, 08:51 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cala View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Sounds like the definition of insanity 😂

I suspect either A you fluid level is too low, or B your torque converter is starting to go.
I hope it's A. Car is 90k kms (56k miles), europe version. I don't know if a torque converter can fail at that mileage. Tranny shifts well except for that. No vibrations, no slipping issues.
Agreed. Check the fluid level
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      07-19-2019, 10:48 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cala View Post
You should read errors and maybe reset adaptations.

By the way, about adaptations reset, maybe Zigsman can answer my question: is it always necessary to perform the relearning procedure? Or adaptations can simply be reset and then drive the car normally?

A year ago I replaced solenoids and mechatronic sleeves on my 2006 330i tranny becasue of the famous 2th to 1th bump, and reset adaptations and permormed the relearn procedure, and car was going well. But 2 months ago, tranny started to shift hard sometimes, either upshifting or downshifting. So, I already replaced transmission fluid with Vaico, reset adaptations with INPA and performed the relearn procedure. But the issue was still there, so reset adaptations again with relearn procedure and got a little better but sometimes it shifts hard. For example, from 4th to 3th, I can feel the shift too much, like a bump. So I was wondering if the relearn procedure on free road is a must or it is not necessary if you drive most of the time in town. Maybe if I just reset and star driving it can learn how I drive. Or maybe I have been doing it wrong (the procedure).
I've never performed the "relearn procedure", I've always just reset and drove like I normally drive. Never had an issue... Have you updated the software for your transmission? That MIGHT help the shifting issue. Before I tore into my transmission, I made sure it had the latest software and I reset the adaptations. If your solenoids are new and you rebuilt the mechatronics, and changed the fluid, then your torque converter may be the issue or clutch disc pacts might be starting to go.
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      07-19-2019, 10:50 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Agreed. Check the fluid level
Agreed as well....check the fluid level. If you filled the transmission while the car was off and in park, the level will be low. the car must be on and in Nuetral or drive while you fill the transmission. It should be filled until it starts to seep out while it is running.
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      07-20-2019, 08:45 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Agreed. Check the fluid level
Agreed as well....check the fluid level. If you filled the transmission while the car was off and in park, the level will be low. the car must be on and in Nuetral or drive while you fill the transmission. It should be filled until it starts to seep out while it is running.
To add to that, the car MUST BE level.

1) after installing the new pan filter, do an initial fill and lightly screw in the fill plug.

2) start the car, and run it threw the gears a few times

3) leave the car running

4) find a way to measure the temp of the AT Fluid, either INPA, ISTA, Foxwell, or a digital laser gun style heat measurement tool.

It must be level and the temp of the fluid should be between 86 and 120 degrees before you do a final fill. Fill the pan until fluid starts to run out of the pan. Then screw in the fill plug & torque down to 25# or so.

If you really want to get 99% of the fluid out of the AT, then you need to do a flush via the trans cooler line. Really, really easy if you have the special trans cooler line tool/ key. The key can be bought on Amazon or FCP. CTA makes the affordable version of this tool for around $13.00.
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      07-21-2019, 06:40 PM   #240
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Check the fluid level.
Replace your MAF sensor and see if it will solve the problem.
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      07-22-2019, 04:09 PM   #241
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Thanks to all for the replies.
I'll check fluid level in this week and (1) if it's low, there is the problem. I'll fill it up measuring the temp with INPA. (2) If level is ok, I'll reset adaptations again without relearn procedure.

I think MAF is in good condition. I clean it with CRC MAF Cleaner every oil service.
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      07-23-2019, 11:35 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cala View Post
Thanks to all for the replies.
I'll check fluid level in this week and (1) if it's low, there is the problem. I'll fill it up measuring the temp with INPA. (2) If level is ok, I'll reset adaptations again without relearn procedure.

I think MAF is in good condition. I clean it with CRC MAF Cleaner every oil service.
Mine never through a code! If all fails, swap with another used one.
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