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      05-23-2019, 11:49 AM   #23
tlow98
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Originally Posted by ghostofsenna View Post
Link? That seems pretty cheap.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2006-2007-2008-BMW-328i-325i-330i-E90-Rear-Bumper-Painted-BM1100164/111744778993?hash=item1a048202f1:g:GtwAAOSwGotWrmO 0

Same for front available somewhere
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      05-23-2019, 06:29 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Arenít new bumpers like $180 painted/shipped on eBay?

Sure, itís not oem, but this is a project car after all...
Yes, but the quality is crap, and those are made put of fiberglass usually. None of them fit without taking it to a body shop and having them mold it to your car + paint it properly. I prefer as OEM as possible, that's the goal for this car. While it is a project, it's also my dream project and I have plans to keep this car for a loooong time. Over the years, with all of my cars and helping friends with theirs, I've learned it's better to pay a little extra and then I won't have to worry about it in the future.
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      05-23-2019, 07:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Timothi2 View Post
Here comes another one... I absolutely love wagons, and my dream has always been to build a high horsepower sleeper (maybe not so sleeper) wagon. After spending months researching on possible platforms/makes/models for my project, I came across Greg555's thread with his build and I became really interested in the idea. Fast forward a year or two, and here I am with one 2012 328i Touring, and one 2009 335i. LET THE FUN BEGIN!

Mechanically, the swap should be entirely straightforward for me. Both vehicles are LCI, and I've worked with cars plenty in the past. My cousin and I pulled his Miata engine multiple times (due to him breaking something out of sheer stupidity usually, but man do we have some great memories together), and recently we had to replace his n54 on his e92 due to a piston going AWOL : . I'm no stranger to redoing the entire front end of a car, and since both cars are RWD, everything should bolt right up from the sedan to the wagon. Unfortunately, both cars are autotragic as it's really difficult to find a perfect donor, but I do have plans to eventually convert it to a manual.

In terms of what will be swapped over to the wagon:
-Complete engine, transmission, driveline, differential, axles, hubs, brakes, subframes, essentially everything that could be considered an upgrade.
-iDrive dash from the e90 335, I don't have iDrive in the wagon and know I'm going to heavily regret not swapping it in, especially if it's right there.

I've started to research all the coding that I will need to do once the car is finished, and I believe I'll be able to do most of it myself. My cousin has also messed around with coding a few things in his e92 and has been successful, so I've got him to help me out as well.

Pics of both cars are below, I'll do my best to keep this thread as updated as possible on the progress of the build. The goal is to have it done by the end of the summer, hopefully sooner! I've got a lot of guys who are willing to help me out, so as long as I don't run into any major setbacks it should be done relatively quickly.

BTW, if anyone wants parts off of the 335i, PM me. I need the money for bolt-ons hahaha
Subbed. If you do iDrive let me know and I can give you the bat shit crazy project discount. Your wagon would be a perfect NBT Next retrofit car. I went from non idrive to NBT Evo ID6 in my own car. Any other coding work and I can remote in free of charge.

I ran the vins and both cars need some help in the options department, no combox, Comfort Access, alarm, logic 7, heated steering wheel, auto high beams, etc.

Last edited by Nickco43; 05-23-2019 at 08:17 PM..
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      05-24-2019, 05:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Timothi2 View Post
Yes, but the quality is crap, and those are made put of fiberglass usually. None of them fit without taking it to a body shop and having them mold it to your car + paint it properly. I prefer as OEM as possible, that's the goal for this car. While it is a project, it's also my dream project and I have plans to keep this car for a loooong time. Over the years, with all of my cars and helping friends with theirs, I've learned it's better to pay a little extra and then I won't have to worry about it in the future.
Understood. If you're going to repaint the whole front clip then and it makes sense to avoid a lower quality bumper.

FYI, there are very high-quality non-OE bumpers unpainted for about $200. They're pretty impressive. You would not know the difference if the BMW stamp was removed from the OE.
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      07-12-2019, 12:33 AM   #27
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A bit of an update... Found a 6MT '09 335i down in Austin, Texas and picked it up for a good price. The car was delivered to my house last Tuesday, it runs and drives. I started pulling apart the front of the wagon, and the n52 is pretty much ready to be taken out. Just have to pull off all of the wiring, disconnect the driveline, exhaust, and pull the motor. I have to rearrange my backyard a bit to put both cars in a good spot to swap everything from one to the other, but as soon as that's done the swap will be continuing.

For now, I've been messing around with NCSExpert and reading a bunch of modules, getting to know the program a little better. I think I found the section that's going to be the key to getting the wagon to recognize the n54 and the 6mt swap, but I'll be doing a little more digging as the week goes on. Will upload a few pictures of both the wagon and the 335i soon!!

Also, I'll be parting out all of the suspension and drivetrain from the 328i so if anyone is interested PM me.
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      07-15-2019, 03:44 PM   #28
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Here are some pics as promised!
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      07-17-2019, 05:53 PM   #29
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Few more updates... Got the entire front end off of the 335i, pulled off the exhaust, and unplugged the wiring harness from the DME. I'm planning to just unbolt the subframe, and drop the engine, subframe and trans together. Still trying to find a good way to set the wagon up so I can drop the engine on that one as well and bolt the whole front assembly from the 335i into it.
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      07-17-2019, 11:05 PM   #30
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I would remove the remaining parts from the front of the sedan and hook the engine hoist to the engine and put some tension on it then supper the trans with a jack.

I donít think the struts will clear the fenders unless you raise the car up higher. I would remove both struts.

Then remove all subframe bolts and transmission mount bolts and simultaneously lower the jack under the transmission and the hoist then roll it out of the front of the car.

As for install, just roll it under the wagon from the front and raise it all to bolt it up and attach everything else from the front.
If you have space, I would put them both nose to nose and as soon as the engine is out of the 335, rotate the whole assembly 180į and put it right into the wagon.

Short version for each car
Remove struts/anything holding the engine onto the car/steering column/cooling/ac parts in front of the engine.
Support transmission with jack
Hook up engine hoist and put tension on it
Remove trans mount bolts and subframe bolts
Lower both jack and hoist
Roll out the entire assembly.

Thatís how I would do it, without a lift.
GL

Last edited by Serf27; 07-17-2019 at 11:11 PM..
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      07-18-2019, 02:00 AM   #31
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I would factory code the entire car with the donor 335i type code. That should be the only bit of coding needed. I am happy to help out and do this for you if you want.
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      07-18-2019, 11:36 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
I would remove the remaining parts from the front of the sedan and hook the engine hoist to the engine and put some tension on it then supper the trans with a jack.

I donít think the struts will clear the fenders unless you raise the car up higher. I would remove both struts.

Then remove all subframe bolts and transmission mount bolts and simultaneously lower the jack under the transmission and the hoist then roll it out of the front of the car.

As for install, just roll it under the wagon from the front and raise it all to bolt it up and attach everything else from the front.
If you have space, I would put them both nose to nose and as soon as the engine is out of the 335, rotate the whole assembly 180į and put it right into the wagon.

Short version for each car
Remove struts/anything holding the engine onto the car/steering column/cooling/ac parts in front of the engine.
Support transmission with jack
Hook up engine hoist and put tension on it
Remove trans mount bolts and subframe bolts
Lower both jack and hoist
Roll out the entire assembly.

Thatís how I would do it, without a lift.
GL
Thanks for the tips! I was going to do pretty much exactly that, but I didn't think about the struts not clearing the fenders. I've got both cars parked right across from each other, as you said so it should be a straightforward pull and place into the other car. Hopefully I can get a good amount more work done in the next couple of days. I'm heading out to a church kids camp this Sunday where I'll be volunteering for a week!
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      07-18-2019, 11:40 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
I would factory code the entire car with the donor 335i type code. That should be the only bit of coding needed. I am happy to help out and do this for you if you want.
I'll be swapping the CAS from the 335i into the wagon, and then later recoding it with the right VIN. Also, I think the best option for me would be to change the VO with the few things I'll be adding. I'm not changing any of the other modules, so I don't know if recoding the entire car to the 335i type code would work, as they don't have the same options
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      07-18-2019, 11:56 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Timothi2 View Post
I'll be swapping the CAS from the 335i into the wagon, and then later recoding it with the right VIN. Also, I think the best option for me would be to change the VO with the few things I'll be adding. I'm not changing any of the other modules, so I don't know if recoding the entire car to the 335i type code would work, as they don't have the same options
That is poor practice; I would mail the 335i DME along with the original cas and key to have the new DME paired with the original cas. The type code is a four digit code that tells any BMW software you use what car you have in what region. My type code is VB33 since I have a US spec 330i. If you enter the 335i type code into the car and then factory code all of the modules it will tell the modules that they are now in a 335i car instead of a 328i.

When I coded for a 135i manual to DCT swap I coded in a 135is type code to tell the modules that it was now a 135is, a car that had the DCT from the factory.
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      07-18-2019, 12:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothi2 View Post
Thanks for the tips! I was going to do pretty much exactly that, but I didn't think about the struts not clearing the fenders. I've got both cars parked right across from each other, as you said so it should be a straightforward pull and place into the other car. Hopefully I can get a good amount more work done in the next couple of days. I'm heading out to a church kids camp this Sunday where I'll be volunteering for a week!
The struts might or might not clear the fenders.
Depends if the car is high enough off the ground and how low you can lower the subframe.
If you leave them on you will definitely have to maneuver them around the fenders, or just remove them to avoid that.
Once the wagon engine bay is empty and everything is unattached from the n54 engine, shouldnít take more than 30 minutes to remove it and switch it over to the wagon.
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      07-18-2019, 12:13 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
That is poor practice; I would mail the 335i DME along with the original cas and key to have the new DME paired with the original cas. The type code is a four digit code that tells any BMW software you use what car you have in what region. My type code is VB33 since I have a US spec 330i. If you enter the 335i type code into the car and then factory code all of the modules it will tell the modules that they are now in a 335i car instead of a 328i
Gotcha, I wasn't sure what you meant haha. Got any recommendations for the DME reprogamming? Also, what I meant when I said changing the VO was really adding whatever I'm adding AND changing the chassis code to the correct one. My current type code is UT93 I believe, and I was planning to swap it to the euro 335i Touring type code which is UV71 for a left hand drive, n54 touring according to realoem!
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      07-18-2019, 01:23 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Timothi2 View Post
Gotcha, I wasn't sure what you meant haha. Got any recommendations for the DME reprogamming? Also, what I meant when I said changing the VO was really adding whatever I'm adding AND changing the chassis code to the correct one. My current type code is UT93 I believe, and I was planning to swap it to the euro 335i Touring type code which is UV71 for a left hand drive, n54 touring according to realoem!
You may run into issues using a euro type code. I would give it a try though. As for the DME I would give bimmergeeks a call.
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      08-05-2019, 07:11 PM   #38
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Update: N54 is in the wagon, as well as the entire 335i rear subframe and suspension (minus struts and springs). Still have to do the wiring for the manual swap, and change the evap canister location to the 335i one. Stupid me put on the rear subframe without realizing that the evap canister lines go right above it and it makes it pain to remove if you don't take off the rear subframe, which I don't really want to do. Hopefully by the end of the week I get almost everything done. It's all been coming along nicely!
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      08-05-2019, 09:12 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothi2 View Post
Yes, but the quality is crap, and those are made put of fiberglass usually. None of them fit without taking it to a body shop and having them mold it to your car + paint it properly. I prefer as OEM as possible, that's the goal for this car. While it is a project, it's also my dream project and I have plans to keep this car for a loooong time. Over the years, with all of my cars and helping friends with theirs, I've learned it's better to pay a little extra and then I won't have to worry about it in the future.
Not so true actually. The bumpers are almost all PP and fit pretty much like OEM. I have all aftermarket bumpers on my car and you would never even know. This is WITH an M3 replica rear...

Subbed for the build. The bumper would not have been a deal breaker for me, but I understand your thinking. Especially if you want to go manual.
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      08-06-2019, 12:40 AM   #40
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those logs are great. nice work in here so far!
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      08-06-2019, 10:38 PM   #41
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I keep forgetting to take pictures...

Wiring for the clutch switch is done, nicely routed and placed out of the way. Checked the switch with INPA, it works and reads both fully depressed and fully up. Unfortunately, while I was attempting to bleed the clutch I stripped the bleed nut on the slave cylinder so RIP me. I'll have to check and see how much a new slave cylinder is tomorrow, as I looked and apparently you can't just buy the bleeder screw itself. Right before I ran out of time for the day, I tried to start it and I got a click from the starter. Seems like the battery might be dead, I had trouble starting the 335i before I took it apart too, though it did start with 2 jumper packs on it. I'll be doing some coding on the car tonight, and hopefully tomorrow I can find a slave cylinder and get it started! Once it runs, the front end is going back on, as well as all the other little bits and pieces.

Also, if anyone is wondering, I ended up swapping the charcoal canister to the 335i location to accomodate for the 335i exhaust. To do this I had to use the 335i fuel evap lines, which are a pain to do if you decide to keep your rear subframe in lol. I keep telling myself it'll be done in a few days to give myself some hope

I'll try and remind myself tomorrow to get a bunch of pictures and post them up!
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      08-07-2019, 07:34 PM   #42
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THE CAR STARTS!!! Last night I tried to recode the car, except all of the modules were throwing me a vin mismatch error and the coding would fail. Spent a few hours this morning figuring out winkfp, added the wagon vin to the DME and recoded the VIN in the CAS module to the right one as well. Then, I went back and changed the VO to the right one, and recoded the car. Fired right up on it's first try! Time to put everything back together
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      08-07-2019, 07:58 PM   #43
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Here are some pictures as promised!
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      08-07-2019, 10:20 PM   #44
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Awesome! Will be doing exactly this but with a pre lci. just picked up 2007 e91 6mt have a 2007 335xi with very low miles.
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