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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > KnighTT e92 madness - Build thread.



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      07-14-2019, 03:06 PM   #23
Vulcan50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
That hole is strange and the way the inside of the manifold is formed is surprising to me. It doesn't look like it was flow optimized which is really different from what I found when I had my intake manifold off for a swap. This is what the inside of a stock n52 head with 80k miles looks like. Big contrast with the n54 as far as worksmanship and effort for flow optimization...
If I were to guess maximum flow efficiency is less important on a turbo'd setup. My gut says since the air is forced in, you can get away from spending more money one intake (from a manufacturing standpoint).
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      07-16-2019, 11:04 AM   #24
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I guess I am a little surprised to see some more engineering on the NA head with the ports VS the N54. With the numbers the n54 can produce vs all of the other designs BMW had at the time, I guess it matters less.

I just ran across the posts and clips from RB about plugging the PCV lines that go into the ports between my last posts. I wonder how much plugging those up saves from getting into the intake. I've been doing soem light research in oil catch cans and modifications to the PCV system so I can prevent gunk down the road. Over the next 6mo I'm going to add a OCC and PCV upgrade for sure.

When it comes down to the intake cleaning, it costs about 4 cans of brake clean, 2 cans of CRC Intake Valve and Turbo cleaner, and a $18 engine brush kit in my experience. As long as you have a good variable speed corded drill.

I picked up 2 extra cans of the CRC intake cleaner to run a few cleanups when the car is actually running. Videos of this product used as directed are pretty incredible.
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      07-16-2019, 01:17 PM   #25
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So, the weekend was a bit of a nightmare.

I got the new front CVs delivered and that was the only thing holding me back from getting the car done. So, trying to get them in went sour real quick.

The driver side CV went in up to about 1" away from seat. It would not go in any more. It also would NOT come back out. It was bad. I spent hours reaming on the thing and marring the heck out of the diff before I just decided to yank out the entire diff and see if it was all ruined. BTW, a used front diff is only about $250 on eBay if you are worried. Not the end of the world.

I took the inner cv boot apart and got out the diff after.....dropping the entire sub frame. Booooo.



So, I tore apart the diff. I actually found half a circlip in it from pulling out the pass side CV, so that was a blessing.

After some brute force, which after Googling is what they say it takes, we got it back together. All the splines are lined up and it does seem seated in the right circlip slot now. I used some Hondabond gasket maker I already had to seal the diff back up.




So, there are some pros and cons that came out of this nightmare.

- So....while you have the subframe off....why not order some catless downpipes? On their way.
- While the car was all apart, I think I see a leak from the valve cover gasket, so that's on the way too.
- Good time to clean up the top end if the VCG is off.
- New ignition/injector wiring harness going in.
- New charge pipe and BOV on the way.
- New stepped intercooler on the way too. Why not?

I also found a guy locally selling the dual cone intake from Injen, so that'll be in this weekend.

I'll be FBO by next weekend I guess. After I clean up the other errors the car had before I tore it apart, then we will drop in a MHD tune to take advantage of the new parts.

Right now I am waiting on a oil side gasket for the diff, new diff fluid for front/rear/ diff plugs, VCG, and a few other things I need to put all back together.

It's funny how once you get used to it, the n54 isn't that hard to work on. Truthfully, once you drop the sub frame, you can get to everything. Drop the cats and you can access anything you need on the turbos.

I still need to bleed the clutch too. Took the CDV off.
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      07-16-2019, 01:22 PM   #26
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I got bored so I also took care of this.






I used the 3M kit. I have used it a few times, and with about 30-45min of work, it will look 100% new if you take your time. $14 and a drill.
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      07-16-2019, 01:29 PM   #27
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I had three errors I need to take care of after the car is back together. Outside of the 30ff I should resolve with all of the new seals, charge pipe, BOV.

- Seatbelt/airbag passenger. I MAY need a new belt tensioner.
-TPMS inactive. May just be a reset as the wheels seem to still have the TPMS in them.
- Brake light. I already purchased new pad wear sensors.

Also, in taking out the front end, the headlight leveling sensor feels shot. I'm going to clean it up and see if it will work, but the level bar moves too freely for me to think it's not broken.

Is there a way/reason to just disable the adaptive headlights? Is replacing the sensor worth it?
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      07-16-2019, 01:35 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnighTT View Post
I had three errors I need to take care of after the car is back together. Outside of the 30ff I should resolve with all of the new seals, charge pipe, BOV.

- Seatbelt/airbag passenger. I MAY need a new belt tensioner.
-TPMS inactive. May just be a reset as the wheels seem to still have the TPMS in them.
- Brake light. I already purchased new pad wear sensors.

Also, in taking out the front end, the headlight leveling sensor feels shot. I'm going to clean it up and see if it will work, but the level bar moves too freely for me to think it's not broken.

Is there a way/reason to just disable the adaptive headlights? Is replacing the sensor worth it?

I like where your car is going, man it's gonna be a beast.

I have a question about the 3m kit, as I need to do my headlights. Usually I just use some regular fine polish to clean them up occasionally rather than redo them entirely. How long does the 3m kit keep them clear?

Also, for the light, I had mine go out due to corrosion (water in the light). I initially was going to replace it but it seems like it can be a hassle, and the part is around $200. Some say it's easy but some say they bought vin locked units and ended up wasting money, but if you get a brand new one you have to code your vin to it? Not fully sure so I coded mine out, I forget the vehicle option but it was really super easy to do. Then I straightened out the beams with the adjustment screws, as I personally could care less about auto leveling/turning lights even if they were kinda "cool to have." You may simply be having the servo arm unseating problem though. See https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494479
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      07-16-2019, 01:42 PM   #29
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I'll have to look up how to code out the dynamic lights then. One less sensor to worry about. I could care less if the lights are dynamic. My LR3 had lights that turned into corners. I never felt like that feature ever actually gave me a better viewing experience though. HID's are pretty solid without moving around.

The 3M kit, and after a full do over, will last 2-3 years before you may see some slight yellowing again. I used my last kit on a 2005 Odyssey that were trashed. Huge headlights. Only 3 years later to they have a slight haze. Probably could take care of that with just a light 2000 sand and some rubbing compound.

It took me 30 minutes to do what you see above.
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      07-16-2019, 04:32 PM   #30
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Well, Amazon must be stalking my browsing history again. They dropped the price of the Injen SP1125WB dual cone intake down to $340 and I had to pull the trigger. It's by far my favorite setup for the N54. Even if a good chunk of it is because it appeases my OCD vs the BMC cones just stuck all wibbly bible.



I'm going to take inventory of what parts came in today and enjoy some ribs and beer.

My wife and kids are headed to AL for a week starting on Friday, So I'll have the weekend to put in all the wrench time. Hopefully we will be back on the road by Monday.

I think the only thing that may not be in by Monday is the new charge pipe and BOV.

Last edited by KnighTT; 07-16-2019 at 04:37 PM..
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      07-17-2019, 02:08 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnighTT View Post
Well, Amazon must be stalking my browsing history again. They dropped the price of the Injen SP1125WB dual cone intake down to $340 and I had to pull the trigger. It's by far my favorite setup for the N54. Even if a good chunk of it is because it appeases my OCD vs the BMC cones just stuck all wibbly bible.



I'm going to take inventory of what parts came in today and enjoy some ribs and beer.

My wife and kids are headed to AL for a week starting on Friday, So I'll have the weekend to put in all the wrench time. Hopefully we will be back on the road by Monday.

I think the only thing that may not be in by Monday is the new charge pipe and BOV.
Nice & tidy
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      07-17-2019, 09:38 AM   #32
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That's why I like the Injen setup. They have a $$$ tag to them but they just have the cleanest look when done. Plus, there is at least some thought into getting fresher air directed to the intake.

It also comes with all the hardware needed to mount, relocated the power steering, etc etc.
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      07-17-2019, 09:54 AM   #33
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Well, the catless downpipes from ARM come in today. So, that's enough for me to get back under the car and get started again. I'll at least get the cats off tonight so I can really inspect the turbos and all the oil and coolant lines. Praying I don't find any leaks. Although, I do have like a half dozen extra oil line gaskets laying around from my 135i when I had to redo a bunch of the turbo gaskets.

I also found evidence that the turbos have been removed at some point. Two of the manifold nuts were missing as part of the stud was broken off. There is enough left to get a vice grip around it and pull the stud out, someday. One of the manifold nuts is only halfway on.

So, either the turbos have been replaced at some point or some major work was done. I am pretty sure I heard some waste gate rattle before I tore this all apart. In the long run, I don't have any exhaust leaks so I am going to tighten it all down and leave it. What I will do is set this up to be replaced when I move to larger turbos and upgrade the inlets. Then I'll pull all the studs and replace all the hardware.

Found myself just sitting in it last night. Patiently waiting to get it back on the road. The real kick is, it's going to feel like a completely different car as I had only driven it for a week. With the new CVs, diff oil change, new intercooler, fixed the severely clogged intake inlets, new intake, new charge pipe, and the catless downpipes it will feel so much different. Especially with the CDV out and the MUCH shorter shift knob. Once we remedy the other issues, and I feel confident she is purring the way she should, we'll drop the MHD stage 2+ and see how it really feels.

Then this poor girl needs a tint job and some real wheels. It has zero tint and I live in GA. That black leather....too hot.

Plus, I honestly think the aftermarket 17's that are on here have the wrong tire size. They physically don't fill the fender wells like a normal stock 335i tire.
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      07-17-2019, 10:03 AM   #34
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If you've already got the subframe off, now is a good time to replace the oil pan gasket.
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      07-17-2019, 10:13 AM   #35
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Right now, it doesn't look like I have a leak there and the gasket sticking out the sides feels like it isn't that old.

I will 100% replace it when I put in the new turbos though. I'll probably drop the pan and swap out the con-rod bearings as well.

Sometime in the next year or so.
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      07-19-2019, 09:36 AM   #36
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ARM catless downpipes came in.






I like how this kit comes with the gaskets and hardware needed. Great welds. Great price.

I also got the VC off, cleaned things up, and got the new valve cover gasket on. I thought the old was was alright but it turned out to be pretty crunchy when removed.




Charge pipe, intercooler, and intake come in today. We have quite the long weekend ahead.
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      07-19-2019, 03:58 PM   #37
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Awesome stuff. Can't wait to see what you think after you're all set and done.

I don't know if you did or mentioned doing this but you should check your vanos solenoids while you're doing all of this, clean them up if they are super dirty.

I also found this recently and it has me wondering about my own vehicle, even though I maintain good oil change intervals. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=900394

Last edited by kens; 07-20-2019 at 03:30 AM..
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      07-21-2019, 12:39 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnighTT View Post
Now, after driving for a week....the stock shift knob had to go. It was far too tall and had too much of a plastic feel to the shift. It even flexed a little when shifting so it just felt like garbage.

This is a Cravenspeed knob made for a R56 Mini Cooper. I had one in my R53 a few years ago and really liked the feel of the shift. Dropped the knob probably 3"+

It's not "made" for the e92, but it ~fits as both shifters are BMW.

It's weighted. A little over 300g I believe.



I also took the CDV off the transmission. Hopefully that will improve the shifting once I get it back on the road.

And for giggles, I ordered a alcantara boot kit for the shiftier and brake. That'ss be here someday.

I also ordered the missing aluminum trim for the driver side door from Latvia off ebay. $25.
Can you please share Cravenspeed shifter install details? I purchased one because I liked how it looks in your car and also because it's weighted. Run into a little snag when trying to put a plastic sleeve over the notch on the shift lever. Tried to install without that sleeve but shifter can be pulled of very easily.
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      07-21-2019, 08:13 AM   #39
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It 95% fits. Put the weighted metal base down the shaft. Then, fit the plastic sleeve over the top and get it down as far as you can but it doesn't need to go past the groove on the top of the sifter shaft. It's barely going to get in there as the Mini shifter shaft doesn't have that bulge on the bottom. Then, pull up the weighted base as far as you can up the sleeve. It sleeve is basically just a friction fit.

Put the surround on and line up the top. Tap that down into the groove. You will probably still have a small gap between the top of the weighted base and the surround. 1/8".

Line up the holes of the base to the surround. Then, put on the cap and screw the cap on in a star pattern. This will close the gap and squeeze everything together. Then tighten down all the cap screws.

I got it on there pretty good that way. It will probably come off, if you pull on it, a lot easier than the stock knob but only if you do it on purpose.

Hope that helps.
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      07-21-2019, 03:49 PM   #40
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I see, thanks. I was trying not to tap on the sleeve or any other parts. Looks like the problem is that that plastic sleeve has too large of diameter. I think Iíll contact CravenSpeed support and describe this issue, they might suggest something. Worst case I can just return it and get a zhp knob instead.
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      07-22-2019, 09:08 AM   #41
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Well, I wouldn't say the weekend was a bust, I just had too much work to do to have the car done by this morning.

- Differential went back in alright. Heavy ol' pumpkin trying to lift it over my head. New Redline oil. Done.
- The CV I split in half was an easy install and the clamp I bought and clip pliers worked great. I even packed some extra grease in the boot for peace of mind. I still hope these cheaper CVs work OK.
- The other, longer, CV axle went in pretty easy. I put the older SMALLER circlip from the prior CV and it slid in alright.
(Side note - the entire CV nightmare was from the larger circlip. Like others have experienced, just put the older circlips in. The new ones are too large)
- PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT - If you are going to pull apart the DME wiring harness, take pictures before you do so you know where everything goes. You can take each module out of the left and right main connectors. This allows you to pull all of the wiring looms out and across the right side of the engine bay and out of the way. My issue was I put them back together WRONG and boy did the car not like that. (like 200 codes....) So, take pictures.
- Ignition and injector wiring harness replacement was easy.
- Subframe went back in but that is a PITA. The next time I take off the subframe it'll be for the rest of the upgrades, at once. There are so many small things to get it all back together. It just gives you all the room you need when it's off. This is the one thing a car lift would help immensely on.

So, in a nutshell, I got it all back together. The DME wiring issue took me a bit to figure out then I got her fired up.

It then immediately dumped a bunch of oil all over the floor. Turns out when I installed the new oil cooler gasket in the oil filter housing, it must have popped out of place on the bottom right and the gasket was smashed outside the channel. I popped it back in place, as it was not damaged beyond another go, and that solved that issue. Bunch of fresh oil all over the front of the engine. Poo.

Then....the same dern thing happened when I put my 135i back together. The nipple on the top of the upper radiator hose broke off. Sigh.... meaning there is again, one last part to order, before the car can be on the road safely. Amazon will have that here tomorrow.

I still have oil that made its way up to the new expansion chamber. The car had the OFHG leak for sure, so now I need to do a full cooling system flush and get that all out. I had planned for that. I won't get into details, but thank God it wasn't as bad as what happened to my 135i....it took me 3 weeks to get 4lbs of mayonnaise out of that car.

So, tonight I think I am going to take a break. I'm missing a bunch of skin, my right arm looks like I got raped by a bear, and every bone in my body hurts. I did 5 hours on Friday, 14 hours on Saturday, and another 12 hours yesterday.

I'm beat.
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      07-22-2019, 09:20 AM   #42
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Next steps.

- After I get the new upper rad hose, do a full flush of the cooling system, twice, and get all the oil out.
- Get the new inter cooler back on and see what the car sounds like without all the piping open.
- Reset all adaptations. My idle goes up and down after it warms up every 20-30 seconds. All the new mods I would guess.
- I also got a 4x4 and ABS error but I think those will go away once it drives a bit. The ABS sensors and differential will be off as I replaced a bunch of drive train components.

I'll probably end up flushing the coolant system a couple times as I drive it over the next week. Then I'll drain it all and put in the new coolant mix. Luckily, this new intercooler seems pretty easy to put on and take off.

- I still have the pass airbag error to sort out. 80% sure it is the belt tensioner.
- New brake wear sensors need to go in but I need to order new pads.
- TPMS reset.
- Code out the adaptive headlight. The leveling sensor is definitely shot. So is the link bar it attaches to.
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      07-24-2019, 09:41 AM   #43
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We are back on the road!

So, fist of all, what a world of difference. She is a blast to drive now. I'm not going to say that is the upgrades, I just think that the piping is now as sealed as it should have been and cleaning up the intake ports finally gives this car the responsiveness it needed.

The DPs made an incredible difference to the exhaust note and I don't see any further reason to improve that area of the car. Sounds great.

No codes so far. Just the eventual codes from not having cats. I still have the pass side seat belt tensioner that needs replaced, I still need to code out the TPMS and fix the adaptive headlight sensors. I also have a brake light on, even after replacing the wear sensors. I'll have to see how I rest that.

IN a couple weeks I'll go ahead and get an MHD tune put on the car. I want to make sure I don't have any further issues pop up before we move on. I'm not really trying to gain peak performance from MHD. For the immediate future, I'd like the map to take advantage of the modifications which will make daily driving smoother. We can drive it a bit harder after I remedy the other repairs to the car.
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      07-24-2019, 09:44 AM   #44
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I do have a nasty rattle on acceleration though.

After some side notes in other forums, I think this may be from that hanger that you bolted the original cats to. People mention this can touch the new DPs and cause a rattle. That is the only thing I can come up with that would cause such a rattle. It literally sound like something rattling against hollow metal.

I also have some play in the steering wheel. I need a new alignment after ripping up the entire front end, and straighten the steering wheel, but it has some play and it catches a bit somewhere in the dash assembly. Feels under lubricated.
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