[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by matteblue3er

If this was a DME/CAS issue, you'd have no spark. I'd pull a plug and coil, ground the plug and have someone else crank the car to see if there is spark. If you try to crank the car too much (and there is no successful start), the DME/CAS fault normally stores.

If you have spark, try unplugging the vanos solenoids and crank the motor. This will cause the motor to use the throttle body instead of vanos/valvetronic.

This is a good idea. Wish I'd suggested it

Just for info, I note the OP's care is a 2011. In 2011 the CAS firmware was updated so that key has to be registered in DME/DDE as well as CAS. A knock on effect seems to be that if there is a problem during this phase of the EWS handshake the EWS manipulation / tampering fault code is not stored. Common after long cranks. Is strange.

[BennettBucsFan]

Sensible, Leavinme remoted in and did some stuff on ISTA but I didn't see CAS realign. Do you have to have an error code to do so? I know he went on inpa and reset the ECU but INPA won't do anything with an EWS4. Matt, no luck starting with trying to disconnect the solenoids. Battery is fully charged and on charger.

[BennettBucsFan]

Levanime, I really appreciate the attempt to help. To everyone on the board, he is a good guy, went out of his way to try to help me.

[BennettBucsFan]

Sensible, so if I don't get that code that probably won't pop up then I can't realign the CAS with ISTA? Can I just tell the dealer I lost my key, would a new key coded by the dealer possibly resolve all of this?

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by BennettBucsFan

Sensible, Leavinme remoted in and did some stuff on ISTA but I didn't see CAS realign. Do you have to have an error code to do so? I know he went on inpa and reset the ECU but INPA won't do anything with an EWS4. Matt, no luck starting with trying to disconnect the solenoids. Battery is fully charged and on charger.

Have you tried:

Start your ISTAD and connect it to your car, then:

+tab: Operations
+tab: Read Out Vehicle Data

=button "Complete Identification"

+tab: Vehicle management
+tab: Service function
+menu: Drive (power train)
+menu: DME fuel electronics (engine connect)
+menu: Adjustment functions
+menu: DME-CAS

=button "Start search" and follow the instructions

?

[cryptomit]

Maybe it's so obvious or maybe it isn't, but did you check all fuses? It may be the reason of all these codes.

[BennettBucsFan]

Went from bad to worse, was able to flash the CAS using WinkFP and now it will not even turn over and ISTA will not read the vehicle. FML

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by BennettBucsFan

Went from bad to worse, was able to flash the CAS using WinkFP and now it will not even turn over and ISTA will not read the vehicle. FML

You flashed CAS? You'll almost certainly need to perform EWS matching now. Did you try my directions above?

What is your battery voltage? When you flashed CAS did you do so with ignition off an key out?

[BennettBucsFan]

Yes, key was out during flash. Since the CAS flash the car is not communicating with ISTA. However prior to the flash, Bimmergeeks helped me and he tried the CAS align on ISTA-D. But at that time my VIN was not showing up on CAS in INPA, which it does now. I have EWS4 if that matters so nothing can be done on INPA with it. Not sure why flashing CAS made it worse but it did. Battery is fine and 12.9 volts and has been on charger throughout.

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by BennettBucsFan

Yes, key was out during flash. Since the CAS flash the car is not communicating with ISTA. However prior to the flash, Bimmergeeks helped me and he tried the CAS align on ISTA-D. But at that time my VIN was not showing up on CAS in INPA, which it does now. I have EWS4 if that matters so nothing can be done on INPA with it. Not sure why flashing CAS made it worse but it did. Battery is fine and 12.9 volts and has been on charger throughout.

Ok, in INPA read fault memory and post what fault codes are present here please.

[Sensible_]

Also, INPA can perform some function with EWS4:


1- Launch inpa
2- Select the engine
3- Choose the model of the engine
4- Select option: activate
5- Select option: EWS
6- Select option: reset ----> in progress ----> click ok.

[matteblue3er]

When you replace a CAS module, you need to backup the key data, flash the module, then restore the module.

For future reference, I'd recommend you use ISTA /P since it would have told you a backup was needed. Though not sure it would allow a used CAS to be retrofitted. But in your case, if an update was available, it would have pushed the update after it took a backup.

The DME/CAS pairing is the least of your worries now.

[Levanime]

key data is not lost during update

[matteblue3er]

Yea I realized after I posted that he did not swap in another CAS. My bad

So can you switch ignition? If you can, can you manually engage the starter?

[Terraphantm]

Probably first thing you checked, but could the battery (and maybe alternator) just be dead? You've got a module throwing a 12v supply code, another module throwing a "battery exhausted" code, and a few modules not broadcasting on the CAN-bus which also happens if the voltage drops too low.

[Sensible_]

Well I still believe this to be a power / CAS-DME problem. I agree that is strange for a car to just die whilst running and that normally this would point to a mechanical fault. But look at the error codes again...

Why would a mechanical fault produce so many CAS-DME / EGS codes?

I have asked twice now, but what is he battery voltage? I know you have it on a charger, but a charger is not a jump starter. As @Terraphantm suggests you need to check your battery / alternator.

Also, have you checked fuel pump fuses as what @cryptomit suggested?

[Levanime]

I still believe ar the beginning it died because of valvetronic motor stuck and kept valves open open (and probably it died on low rpm)

Then something else happened when trying to start and flashing.
Either starter died or stuck or starter solenoid or something like that

As i understand currently starter doesnot turn engine anymore

[BennettBucsFan]

Update: Thanks to BimmerGeeks help car is now turning over again. Now that I've been back to work and away from the car I am probably thinking a little more clearly. Prior to it dying there has been a loud metallic clicking sound coming from the engine bay. I was reading all over the forums and ruled out DISA, come to find out my car does not have them although it I go to REALOEM it says I do. I was going to take off the serpentine belt and check because I thought it was either the belt or one of the pulleys, even though it sure sounded like it was coming from under the valve cover the car was running fine and not giving any codes I had not seen before (Vanos). Could my timing chain have snapped? I do run the car pretty hard and its got 160K miles on it now. Would a broken timing chain allow the car to turn over but not start? I attributed all this to coding because I literally coded the car for the first time 10 minutes or so before it died and no codes were indicating this could be the problem. Posting a few videos taken a day or 2 before my car died, could this be a broken timing chain?

[BennettBucsFan]

Btw, in regards to battery issues, voltage was 12.7 at last check and car does have spark and fuel.

[matteblue3er]

Originally Posted by BimmerGeeks

It does now, I went in yesterday with TeamViewer & reflashed & coded everything. It's turning over again.

The only code being thrown is the Exhaust Cam sensor code. We verified its getting fuel and spark. Eccentric shaft is adjusting to the proper request per DME as well.

My bet is the DME shorted. The O-Ring on the camshaft sensor wasn't replace, and leaked oil. No it won't pick up a signal for that sensor what so ever.

Edit: looks like we posted at the same time. See post above.

From the oil? Oil is not very conductive and is normally an insulator. If there was enough carbon in the oil it could conduct but I doubt it shorted the sensor/wiring enough to kill the DME.

I don't think valvetronic can damage the valve train. It only controls valve lift and unless the engine was out of timing, not sure how the valves would get damaged. I guess a compression/leak down test needs to be done

[anees]

this is a classic camshaft and crankshaft communication error, either due to faulty sensors all on all three, or a break in the wiring cable.

[BashShah]

Hello Everyone.

I am not a Coding Expert.
But This issue rings a bell early Last Year.

2007 E90 335i with FRM 1 Built Sept 2006.

I hired someone to change my Battery to a New OEM and do some additional jobs on the Car.

Car Battery was totally removed for over 3 Hours.
Then when New was Installed and registration was completed.
Car would not turn. or would not release steering lock.

The Coder, reset the Key count to 0 (zero)
meaning how many times the key was inserted.
does this make sense or give you Pros a Hint.

Seems like you Cas lost programming to me or your Ribbon Cable cable is loose....or has a disconnect.