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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > 2008 328i Vibration under acceleration



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      07-19-2019, 07:47 AM   #23
Efthreeoh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrydr310 View Post
Vibration just under acceleration is almost always an issue with the drivetrain, such as a worn flex disc (giubo), worn center support bearing, worn u-joints, or worn axles. How exactly did you check the giubo and center support bearing? Was it just visual? To properly check the center support bearing and see if the rubber is still good, you'd have to remove the exhaust. While you're in there it might be worth removing the driveshaft completely too and confirming that the u-joints are still good and are not sloppy or binding.

Efthreeoh had an old post I found while searching driveline issues; if I remember correctly he ended up replacing the driveshaft and still had the vibration, later finding out that it was the dual mass flywheel causing the issue. But that's only for the manual transmission.
Let me clarify... you are remembering correctly, but slightly out of order. I chased two separate drivetrain vibration issues at two separate times and pretty far apart in mileage.

The first was a high RPM vibration (5,000 to 6,000 rpm), which eventually traced to the flywheel. In chasing the vibration, which started just before 241,000, I started with the driveshaft center bearing and guibo. That didn't fix it. I next replaced the harmonic balancer; again, not the solution. I replaced the rear trans mounts and... nope not it either. I finally discovered through internet research, the dual-mass flywheel can break. At 293,000 I replaced the clutch and flywheel, which solved the vibration problem. IMO people replace bushing on these cars way too early. The guibo and trans mounts were still in good shape when I replaced them.

The second vibration issue came up at 324,000 miles. It was a high road speed humming noise felt in the center of the car mostly and it was speed dependent rather than RPM dependent. I started chasing this one from the outside in with replacement of the rear wheel bearings first. That didn't solve it, so I figured with the high mileage, the differential was finally toast. I found a good used unit from a 138i (IIRC) with just 42,000 miles on it. I swapped the diff in and still had the vibration. While the diff was out I looked at the driveshaft and it seemed the center bearing was moving around in its mount. Once the diff was in and didn't solve the problem, I figured the driveshaft was the only thing left. At the high miles I decided that just replacing the center bearing again was at some risk since the u-joints could be suspect as well. A rebuilt driveshaft is only about $90 more than the part cost of the center bearing, so I just replaced the entire driveshaft. The car has been smooth as silk since. Replacing the driveshaft center bearing is not an easy task. Special tools are needed to remove and install it. It presses on the shaft. I don't have a press so I improvised, which probably slightly damaged the bearing when I installed it at 241,000 miles.

I just wanted to clarify because chasing driveline vibrations in these cars can be frustrating. Road speed related vibrations are wheel, bearings, or driveshaft related. RPM related vibrations are flywheel (high rpm) or possibly engine mount related (low speed).

I now have a diff that I may have rebuilt and converted to a 3.73 limited slip
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission.

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 07-19-2019 at 07:59 AM..
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      07-19-2019, 11:15 AM   #24
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i removed the driveshaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrydr310 View Post
Vibration just under acceleration is almost always an issue with the drivetrain, such as a worn flex disc (giubo), worn center support bearing, worn u-joints, or worn axles. How exactly did you check the giubo and center support bearing? Was it just visual? To properly check the center support bearing and see if the rubber is still good, you'd have to remove the exhaust. While you're in there it might be worth removing the driveshaft completely too and confirming that the u-joints are still good and are not sloppy or binding.

Efthreeoh had an old post I found while searching driveline issues; if I remember correctly he ended up replacing the driveshaft and still had the vibration, later finding out that it was the dual mass flywheel causing the issue. But that's only for the manual transmission.
lowrydr310 i removed the drive shaft and quibo. there in good condition also the center support. ive been driving around in the car and like you had mentioned it only does the vibration when in 2nd-3rd gear @ 40 to 60 mph, but when im using the manual mode it barly vibrates, I've looked online and found somthing about the Vibration damper/absorber that sits at the far end of the driveshaft. i aslo noticed that when it vibrates i start to feel it in the front and then as i keep driving i feel it in the back idk its starting to become a pain...that last sentence sounds soo wrong jajaja
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      09-01-2019, 02:26 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by thormx11 View Post
Sorry for the long first post but..

I just purchased my first BMW. It is a 2008 328I e90 with 156k miles. I am a mechanic, but never really worked on foreign cars. I got a deal on the car, as the previous owners mechanic told them the car needed a new differential, at the cost of $4800. They then just parked the car in the garage for 4-5 years.

The car runs & drives great when cold, it had new Bridgestone tires mounted & balanced right before it was parked (I believe the issue was present before the new tires) but after 5-10 minutes of driving, the car starts to get a vibration under normal acceleration. If you give it heavy throttle it doesn't seem to vibrate. The vibration seems to be in the body, although you can slightly feel it in the wheel it seems. Maybe that is because the body is shaking so bad that it also vibrates the wheel. It shifts great, and the vibration seems to continue through all the gears. It is like you are driving on the rumble strips.

I have searched lots of forums online, and this seems to be kind of a common issue. None of the stories I have read had anyone say the differential was the problem, most seemed to be the rubber driveshaft coupler (guibo) or the axles. The first thing I did was changed the differential fluid. The old fluid looked pretty good, no metal shavings or burnt smell. I then filled it back up with Mobil 1 75w90 fluid. No change to the vibration (was fine while the car was cold, but after a few minutes of driving it came back.) Then I changed the guibo out with a Dorman replacement from Advance Auto. The old one had some very small cracks if you bent it with your hands, but was not frayed or badly cracked as most people described. After that, it kind of feels like the vibration got a little better, but is still very noticeable. I only drove the car about 20 minutes after changing it.

I also cut a clamp off the right rear inner axle boot to look at the grease, but there was no signs of water/moisture like people have described in the forums I have read.

I have raised the car on a hoist while in our shop, but cannot replicate the vibration in the air. The differential does make some noise, but I really can't get the vibration to happen in the air.

I am starting to think it may be the differential, but would like to make sure before spending the time and money on one. I can get a used differential with a 6 month warranty for about $300 delivered, not sure what kind of work is involved in changing it though.
Same here. Stock 328i RWD 2009 with a severe shudder under load when engine is warm. Does not do it when cold. So many people with this problem yet BMW acts like I'm the only...

That and famous BMW parasitic draw ruin this car which is otherwise 9/10 condition.

I am not looking to fix this myself but rather would like to know if someone else has been successful in nailing down what the culprit is. Lots of talk on lots of sites about this but zero resolution (just a lot of pompous bores attacking the poster for not being a a DIY mechanic... That's what drives people away from forums).

Anyhow, thanks for any ressolution stories!
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      09-10-2019, 02:43 AM   #26
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I took my car to a shop the other day to have my vibration diagnosed. They came back with a $5000 estimate of "things that might fix it" that included engine/transmission mounts, guibo, control arm bushings, etc. I don't want to just throw money at this car hoping that "might fix the vibration". The thing that got me was, they didn't even check the u-joints or center support bearing because "we have to remove the heat shield". Seems like that would have been two of the main things to check.
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      09-14-2019, 04:18 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tre' View Post
I took my car to a shop the other day to have my vibration diagnosed. They came back with a $5000 estimate of "things that might fix it" that included engine/transmission mounts, guibo, control arm bushings, etc. I don't want to just throw money at this car hoping that "might fix the vibration". The thing that got me was, they didn't even check the u-joints or center support bearing because "we have to remove the heat shield". Seems like that would have been two of the main things to check.
They tried to pull that with me too. Does bmw not have a database of issues and solutions? Their way, you may as well sell it..
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      10-15-2019, 06:28 PM   #28
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Has anyone been able to find the fix to this problem. I have an 08 328xi doing the same thing. When it's really warm the shake is really bad, almost as if a tire is loose. Any help is appreciated. Mounts, axles, and tires all appear ok and no check engine lights.
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      10-19-2019, 09:27 AM   #29
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I haven't had this issue personally, but I believe I read about vibrations during acceleration and/or braking that were caused by worn/leaking bushings on the front control arms.
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