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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > N55 Stalled after OFHG replacement, No crank no start



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      03-02-2019, 10:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rich_mane View Post
And probably a final update for a bit.

Turning it by hand again, wasn't bad. Charged up the battery to make sure it had enough juice. Tried starting again.

Motor started turning pretty quick, started to fire again, then made a nasty screech sound and seized completely. Can't turn the crank by hand at all anymore. R.I.P. N55.

Guess it could be rod bearings after all lol. It's full of fresh oil, can't believe it would seize like this without ever starting. Shits crazy to me.
who knows could be your mains too.. pull the pan. Very sorry to hear. Keep us updated.
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      07-12-2019, 07:21 PM   #24
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Well it's been a good few months since I posted here but I figured i'd update the thread. A lot of what I posted originally was nonsense and didn't apply to what my problem really was.

I really wanted to believe there was something else wrong other than the rod bearings, but it turned out to be spun rod bearings in cylinders #4 and #5.





Getting it unstuck was the hardest part. With where the motor seized, there was no way to put a socket on one of the rod bolts for cylinder #4 and free it up. So I had to order some etorx angled wrenches (which were much shittier quality than I had hoped) and fought with that for quite a while to get the rod bolts out and free the motor again. But after many busted knuckles and a lot of cursing, it was successful! The motor was free again, and I got to see that disgusting bearing failure up close and personal.

So since I wasn't ready to just give up on it and shell out for a used motor just yet, I decided to clean it up as best I could and throw new bearings in it. Cylinder 5 came off easily but not so much on cylinder 4. Pretty much had to peel the bearing off the crankshaft on cylinder 4. I spent a good amount of time over a period of about a month just sanding down all of the excess bearing material that was left on the crank and rod. I used emery and crocus cloth (which I had never heard of before this experiment lol) and just wrapped it around the crank and used a shoelace to pull it back and forth. After all that, the crank still had some visible imperfections but felt very smooth to the touch and didnt catch my fingernail when I would drag it over. Cleaning the rod proved to be nearly impossible, so I ended up using a dremel to take off as much of the excess as possible without getting into the rod itself. Then finishing it off with some sanding by hand. It isn't perfect, but it was too far gone to ever be perfect again so I said screw it and threw some bearings in there.

I used standard King bearings for all of the rods. Put everything back together, primed the engine, and it started right up. Been running for 500 miles so far. It's only seen >3500 RPMs a couple of times, but it continues to run lol. So I'm not declaring this a success yet, but I've sure got my fingers crossed. Got a bit into the boost and up to about 5500 RPMs for the first time yesterday and had no issues. I'll be changing the oil soon to see what it looks like and then start hitting it harder to see how it holds up.

But I appreciate all of the information that a few of you guys had provided and just wanted to give a bit of an update.
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      07-12-2019, 08:37 PM   #25
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That's excellent that you were able to fix it. Sucks that this seems to be a known issue that is continuing to happen.

Best of luck! I want to hear updates!
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      07-12-2019, 08:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich_mane View Post
Well it's been a good few months since I posted here but I figured i'd update the thread. A lot of what I posted originally was nonsense and didn't apply to what my problem really was.

I really wanted to believe there was something else wrong other than the rod bearings, but it turned out to be spun rod bearings in cylinders #4 and #5.





Getting it unstuck was the hardest part. With where the motor seized, there was no way to put a socket on one of the rod bolts for cylinder #4 and free it up. So I had to order some etorx angled wrenches (which were much shittier quality than I had hoped) and fought with that for quite a while to get the rod bolts out and free the motor again. But after many busted knuckles and a lot of cursing, it was successful! The motor was free again, and I got to see that disgusting bearing failure up close and personal.

So since I wasn't ready to just give up on it and shell out for a used motor just yet, I decided to clean it up as best I could and throw new bearings in it. Cylinder 5 came off easily but not so much on cylinder 4. Pretty much had to peel the bearing off the crankshaft on cylinder 4. I spent a good amount of time over a period of about a month just sanding down all of the excess bearing material that was left on the crank and rod. I used emery and crocus cloth (which I had never heard of before this experiment lol) and just wrapped it around the crank and used a shoelace to pull it back and forth. After all that, the crank still had some visible imperfections but felt very smooth to the touch and didnt catch my fingernail when I would drag it over. Cleaning the rod proved to be nearly impossible, so I ended up using a dremel to take off as much of the excess as possible without getting into the rod itself. Then finishing it off with some sanding by hand. It isn't perfect, but it was too far gone to ever be perfect again so I said screw it and threw some bearings in there.

I used standard King bearings for all of the rods. Put everything back together, primed the engine, and it started right up. Been running for 500 miles so far. It's only seen >3500 RPMs a couple of times, but it continues to run lol. So I'm not declaring this a success yet, but I've sure got my fingers crossed. Got a bit into the boost and up to about 5500 RPMs for the first time yesterday and had no issues. I'll be changing the oil soon to see what it looks like and then start hitting it harder to see how it holds up.

But I appreciate all of the information that a few of you guys had provided and just wanted to give a bit of an update.
Shit man still unfortunate it happened to you but it's so sick to see it's still running! Can't wait to see if it will hold all the way up the RPMs keep us posted for sure!
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      04-20-2020, 04:35 PM   #27
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What the hell lol. So this likely was caused by the OFHG replacement? I'm about to do mine with extreme caution, fill filter housing afterwards, and prime engine. Scared to do it but I think I might anyway because I don't want the serpentine belt to get contaminated.
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      04-20-2020, 05:06 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ghost135i View Post
What the hell lol. So this likely was caused by the OFHG replacement? I'm about to do mine with extreme caution, fill filter housing afterwards, and prime engine. Scared to do it but I think I might anyway because I don't want the serpentine belt to get contaminated.
Reasom is still unkown yet, but it is most likely due to debries falling in by accident or some air bubble in oil feed system. Be vary careful.

I would suggest carefully cleaning pipes and surfaces arround OFHG at first. Make sure that there are no loose particle under the hood itself.

Also at first, detach that bloody coolant line just to simplify everything and reduce all the possible risks.
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      04-20-2020, 10:14 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost135i View Post
What the hell lol. So this likely was caused by the OFHG replacement? I'm about to do mine with extreme caution, fill filter housing afterwards, and prime engine. Scared to do it but I think I might anyway because I don't want the serpentine belt to get contaminated.
Reasom is still unkown yet, but it is most likely due to debries falling in by accident or some air bubble in oil feed system. Be vary careful.

I would suggest carefully cleaning pipes and surfaces arround OFHG at first. Make sure that there are no loose particle under the hood itself.

Also at first, detach that bloody coolant line just to simplify everything and reduce all the possible risks.
Yeah I was going to meticulously clean the surroundings before taking it off, and also do this in my garage to eliminate outside debris, then tape off all galleys immediately after removal.

I had this done by a local shop before since I was going to be out of state soon after the problem occurred, but it seems like the gasket is leaking again after ~15k miles. If you want something done right sometimes you have to do it yourself.

I'll be sure to update the thread when it's done, catastrophic failure or not.

I'm about to get all my rod bearings changed out as preventative maintenance along with a turbo upgrade in about 6 weeks. If this little gasket job grenades the engine right before then i'll lose my mind lol.
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      04-20-2020, 11:07 PM   #30
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Yeah I was going to meticulously clean the surroundings before taking it off, and also do this in my garage to eliminate outside debris, then tape off all galleys immediately after removal.

I had this done by a local shop before since I was going to be out of state soon after the problem occurred, but it seems like the gasket is leaking again after ~15k miles. If you want something done right sometimes you have to do it yourself.

I'll be sure to update the thread when it's done, catastrophic failure or not.

I'm about to get all my rod bearings changed out as preventative maintenance along with a turbo upgrade in about 6 weeks. If this little gasket job grenades the engine right before then i'll lose my mind lol.
Hahahah inshallah you will be good bro, just don't do anything stupid and hope for the best.

Godspeed, you've got this!

What turbo you thinking to go with?
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      04-21-2020, 07:32 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost135i View Post
Yeah I was going to meticulously clean the surroundings before taking it off, and also do this in my garage to eliminate outside debris, then tape off all galleys immediately after removal.

I had this done by a local shop before since I was going to be out of state soon after the problem occurred, but it seems like the gasket is leaking again after ~15k miles. If you want something done right sometimes you have to do it yourself.

I'll be sure to update the thread when it's done, catastrophic failure or not.

I'm about to get all my rod bearings changed out as preventative maintenance along with a turbo upgrade in about 6 weeks. If this little gasket job grenades the engine right before then i'll lose my mind lol.
Hahahah inshallah you will be good bro, just don't do anything stupid and hope for the best.

Godspeed, you've got this!

What turbo you thinking to go with?
Going with a borg warner efr 7670 kit from speedtech. It's already ordered, just takes time since their kits are made to order.
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      04-21-2020, 10:19 AM   #32
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Going with a borg warner efr 7670 kit from speedtech. It's already ordered, just takes time since their kits are made to order.
Damn you are not playing around, that will be nice to keep up with.

Anyways, one thing at a time. Good luck with the OFHG, you've got this.
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      04-21-2020, 10:21 AM   #33
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Damn you are not playing around, that will be nice to keep up with.

Anyways, one thing at a time. Good luck with the OFHG, you've got this.
Yeah it allows some good headroom in terms of e85 power capability if I decide to throw a set of pistons and rods in there as well, all while maintaining extremely fast spool. May make a thread for the build once parts get here, we'll see. Thanks I'll update the OFHG thread once done.
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      04-24-2020, 01:00 PM   #34
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Well since someone bumped it up, I'll give a little update on my car.

It's been 5,000 miles and no issues. About to change the oil for the 3rd time since replacing the bearings. First change was 500 miles after repair, and 2nd at 2,000 miles. Draining the oil through a fine strainer, I've had no signs of metal or anything out of the ordinary that I could see.

I've went ahead and started dumping money into the car again so I hope it continues to hold up lol. All new brakes, tires, new water pump and tstat, some new coolant hoses, oil pressure sensor, a couple wheel speed sensors, bout to get the paint corrected. Car still drives great and now has absolutely zero oil or coolant leaks. I'm hoping to keep it for quite a while longer.
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      04-26-2020, 11:44 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich_mane View Post
Well since someone bumped it up, I'll give a little update on my car.

It's been 5,000 miles and no issues. About to change the oil for the 3rd time since replacing the bearings. First change was 500 miles after repair, and 2nd at 2,000 miles. Draining the oil through a fine strainer, I've had no signs of metal or anything out of the ordinary that I could see.

I've went ahead and started dumping money into the car again so I hope it continues to hold up lol. All new brakes, tires, new water pump and tstat, some new coolant hoses, oil pressure sensor, a couple wheel speed sensors, bout to get the paint corrected. Car still drives great and now has absolutely zero oil or coolant leaks. I'm hoping to keep it for quite a while longer.
That's awesome. Glad to hear she's holding up well now!
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      10-21-2020, 01:56 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by rich_mane View Post
Well since someone bumped it up, I'll give a little update on my car.

It's been 5,000 miles and no issues. About to change the oil for the 3rd time since replacing the bearings. First change was 500 miles after repair, and 2nd at 2,000 miles. Draining the oil through a fine strainer, I've had no signs of metal or anything out of the ordinary that I could see.

I've went ahead and started dumping money into the car again so I hope it continues to hold up lol. All new brakes, tires, new water pump and tstat, some new coolant hoses, oil pressure sensor, a couple wheel speed sensors, bout to get the paint corrected. Car still drives great and now has absolutely zero oil or coolant leaks. I'm hoping to keep it for quite a while longer.
Clear your PM’s! Just tried to send you one and it says that you’ve exceeded the limit so you need to delete. Anyways, I had the literal same thing happen to me, ofhg replaced, drove for a mile or 2 maybe, stalled, hard to turn over, tried to crank, seized, then hard to turn again. I have the engine turning over now so I think I’ll leave it like that and tackle the rod bearings. The cars been sitting for a year with me not doing anything with it bc I assumed it needed an entire motor. Car ran mint before this happened.
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      10-26-2020, 04:36 PM   #37
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Clear your PM’s! Just tried to send you one and it says that you’ve exceeded the limit so you need to delete. Anyways, I had the literal same thing happen to me, ofhg replaced, drove for a mile or 2 maybe, stalled, hard to turn over, tried to crank, seized, then hard to turn again. I have the engine turning over now so I think I’ll leave it like that and tackle the rod bearings. The cars been sitting for a year with me not doing anything with it bc I assumed it needed an entire motor. Car ran mint before this happened.
Cleared some PMs and sent ya one, lemme know what's up.

In other news, 8,000 miles and a full year and 2 months later, same motor is still running with zero issues. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

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      10-27-2020, 05:29 AM   #38
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It sounds like it was worth the effort Rich. Beautiful color. Cool rims.
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      11-03-2020, 02:27 AM   #39
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Man, looking at the picture of that crank, I would have never believed it'd be in a running engine again. That's very, very impressive. It seems your work paid off, nice job.

Even if it doesn't last another 100k, any mileage at all is awesome. I would slowly start putting a bit of money into a rainy day fund for it, just to be safe though

Best of luck for it!
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