[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by liquidshadow22

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...right-e82-e9x/

$390.75 - For all 4 and obviously due to the different lengths, I would imagine it's impossible to just install the upper 2 without the lowers. And maybe I did have a bad ball joint, but in either scenario, I went from a problem free stock setup to a noisey m3 set. And unfortunately, these control arms were noisey immediately after the install. What's worse about it is that I doubted it could be coming from them and ended up installing a bunch of new parts and wasting a lot of time before finally just realizing it was the control arms.

Yes, $400 for the set of 4, not for 2. And you can install either just the lowers, or just the uppers.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

That bushing is shot.. Replace it.. You should not be able to move any suspension parts with your hand

That is not a bushing for start and once broken in it will move like that, just it will not twist like that when driving because of other suspension components, it will only go up&down and some back&forth

[liket]

Yeah, it's where there's play in and out or up and down in the joint that you have a problem when there's a spherical joints, they are supposed to swivel.
When you swivel them to their end of their range of motion you hear the little clunk in the video but that will never happen when it's mounted on the car, it can't physically happen.

New ones are a bit tougher to move since they have no wear at all, they are tighter between the sphere and the bearing surface inside them, the rubber is a bit more rigid when new and they probably have a bit more grease in them as well.
Yours seem fine, just not brand spanking new.

[AK.]

Mine does the same thing.. It has a weird knocking/clunking noises even when going pass a small bump. I have TRW arms as well.

[Stream]

Also have TRW LCA.
They moves free and have knock sound from the beginning, but I think it's normal because they have two ball joints. They are like bold swaybar link.
BTW I have replaced them twice - one on left side and one on right side and all four arms moves identically.

[simon]

Glad to hear your noise is gone but there was nothing wrong with that arm. Unlike the non-M lower control arm the connection to subframe is not a bushing doesn't behave like one. This is why you don't need to torque lower M arms at ride height.

The upper control arm is a bushing and will behave like the stock lower control arm. These do need to be torqued at ride height.

Simon

[jin]

OP i have the same issue after i put in the TRW arms. Clunking and moving freely. Did you try to return them? I bought mine from ECS might see if they will help out.

Originally Posted by liket

Yeah, it's where there's play in and out or up and down in the joint that you have a problem when there's a spherical joints, they are supposed to swivel.
When you swivel them to their end of their range of motion you hear the little clunk in the video but that will never happen when it's mounted on the car, it can't physically happen.

Except they were mounted to the car. Clearly said so in his posts and clips.

[liquidshadow22]

Hey guys. So after driving the car more, I don't think the control arms were entirely responsible for the clunking. Maybe wishful thinking unfortunately. I did in fact return them and used the credit for a turbo install kit - I'm upgrading to hexon rr600s soon!

Since my last post, I went and purchased Steelman Chassis Ears (for those of you unfamiliar with them, they offer a wireless system of alligator clamps that allow you to place in them in potential sound generating parts. You then listen to receiver and can switch channels to narrow your problem area).

Anyway, I think the majority of the sound is either coming from my strut or my vorshlag plates. After going through the control arms, sway bar, and end links, I don't have much else to replace from the front left side.

[Stream]

Originally Posted by liquidshadow22

After going through the control arms, sway bar, and end links, I don't have much else to replace from the front left side.

Did you solve your problem?
If not, check inner and outer tie rods.

[AK.]

Found out my problem! Found out to be loose swaybar end links when I was swapping them out to HPA adjustable swaybar end links.

[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Sorry OP, seems like you just had bad luck. I hadn't had any issues with my m3 control arms when I had them on my last car. I know many people who enjoyed them, sucks you weren't able to.

[jin]

Thought i would update this thread as i had a similar issue with a clunking noise. Finally got sick of the noise and had some free time today to have a look. Turns out the tie rod nuts were loose and sway bar link was loose. Will need to get another alignment now its probably loosened out of spec. Place i went to last time must have left the nut loose so will ask them to redo it.

[juld0zer]

Like the OP my car is very harsh whenever both front wheels hit a bump at the same time, such as a join in the road, cats eyes, some speed bumps etc. I have narrowed it down to the TRW LCAs. Not sure if the BMW ones will be any better since they are also made by TRW but i dont think the arms or joints are faulty. The joints are perfectly smooth and have no play. As others have pointed out, that's the nature of the design - and in normal use with good upper arm bushes, the lower arm will never deflect that much to hit the limits of travel. Those that haven't complained are probably from the 'turn the radio up' or 'fit a louder exhaust' mobs - or they have other parts on their cars that contribute to ride harshness.

The stock arms have rubber bushings in them which absorbs some of the impacts. The spherical bearings in the M3 arms allow a much more direct feel - except I, like some of you have discovered that these have upset the sporty vs comfy balance. IMO it's too harsh for a daily car which is unfortunate. I can forego the bee's dick of extra camber they give. I have camber plates for that. But too many of the roads here have sharp bumps. I also feel the harshness is holding me back from pushing the car a bit more - sort of like if you had brakes which squealed at certain pedal pressure, you either press lighter or harder to avoid the cringing noise.

Whenever an impact occurs to the leading edge of the wheel, the upper control arm (M3 or stock) has a large rubber bushing to absorb some impact of the arm being pulled backwards by the impact. That impact is braced by the lower control arm, which transfers the impact thru the spherical bearing thru to the subframe, and you get that horrible dashquake.

I wonder if reinforcing the subframe would help? The M3's big aluminium reinforcement shield links the front and middle sections of the subframe to the rear section and vehicle chassis. I haven't spent much time in an M3 to compare but the M3's larger overall diameter tyres helps dampen sharp bumps to a degree. The 1M doesnt have any additional reinforcement plate. It actually uses the same subframe as the 135i..

Im glad i did every mod in stages so it was a bit easier for me to figure out the cause.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by liquidshadow22

Honestly, I'm not sure if it moves like that when the car hits bumps, but I'm out of ideas at this point. I don't feel slop in the joint but is it supposed to have this much freedom???

I don't know what else to do. I checked the struts mounts hoping this was the problem.

Any poly substitutes you know of that would fit?

Look at whiteline

[HCMW Adam]

I have a TRW arms installed and since they have been in I have been checking every nut and bolt for looseness. Nothing yet. Based on this thread I gues it must be the m3 lca's. poop.

[vladmury]

I am also thinking going back to stock control arms, the M3 arms are picking a lot of noise and vibration from the road. The extra camber is just not worth it

[dleccord]

just wanted to chime in and say that i am also getting the front end clunk. my end links are tight and bushings on the sway bar and end links appear to be in good shape.

i have trw m3 arms on the front and when the tires are the in the air, i am able to rotate the lca's to make the clunk, as if they are hitting the subframe, but not. the clunks are more audible at slower speeds and usually happen at road/driveway joins, speed bumps, and potholes.

[Radical_53]

I have the same noise with the M3 parts. Some say it's the power steering.
The M3 has hydraulic power steering, while most of the E90 series have electrical power steering.

Did I miss any solution apart from going back to stock again? By the way, shouldn't poly bushes result in the same problems?

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Like the OP my car is very harsh whenever both front wheels hit a bump at the same time, such as a join in the road, cats eyes, some speed bumps etc. I have narrowed it down to the TRW LCAs. Not sure if the BMW ones will be any better since they are also made by TRW but i dont think the arms or joints are faulty. The joints are perfectly smooth and have no play. As others have pointed out, that's the nature of the design - and in normal use with good upper arm bushes, the lower arm will never deflect that much to hit the limits of travel. Those that haven't complained are probably from the 'turn the radio up' or 'fit a louder exhaust' mobs - or they have other parts on their cars that contribute to ride harshness.

The stock arms have rubber bushings in them which absorbs some of the impacts. The spherical bearings in the M3 arms allow a much more direct feel - except I, like some of you have discovered that these have upset the sporty vs comfy balance. IMO it's too harsh for a daily car which is unfortunate. I can forego the bee's dick of extra camber they give. I have camber plates for that. But too many of the roads here have sharp bumps. I also feel the harshness is holding me back from pushing the car a bit more - sort of like if you had brakes which squealed at certain pedal pressure, you either press lighter or harder to avoid the cringing noise.

Whenever an impact occurs to the leading edge of the wheel, the upper control arm (M3 or stock) has a large rubber bushing to absorb some impact of the arm being pulled backwards by the impact. That impact is braced by the lower control arm, which transfers the impact thru the spherical bearing thru to the subframe, and you get that horrible dashquake.

I wonder if reinforcing the subframe would help? The M3's big aluminium reinforcement shield links the front and middle sections of the subframe to the rear section and vehicle chassis. I haven't spent much time in an M3 to compare but the M3's larger overall diameter tyres helps dampen sharp bumps to a degree. The 1M doesnt have any additional reinforcement plate. It actually uses the same subframe as the 135i..

Im glad i did every mod in stages so it was a bit easier for me to figure out the cause.

Very interresting comments!

i have m3 lca on my e82 125i and it is harsh and noisy too.

Why the 1m owners don't complaint of these clunks noises if the subframe is the same as 135i?

is there a solution or the consensus is to fit back the oem LCA ?

[juld0zer]

The 1M/M3 does not use the same subframe. It is enhanced with provisions for a huge bashplate/reinforcement plate. I dare say this contributes significantly to the front end rigidity and takes the brunt of the forces transmitted by the ball jointed lower arms.

Driving a 1M back to back against my 135i with the TRW arms and the shocks are still there, but nowhere near as harsh.
It's on my list to find a suitable bush to replace the ball joints with. I don't think the E90 ones are the same size. We'll find a way to have the camber and some comfort

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by ornicar

Very interresting comments!

i have m3 lca on my e82 125i and it is harsh and noisy too.

Why the 1m owners don't complaint of these clunks noises if the subframe is the same as 135i?

is there a solution or the consensus is to fit back the oem LCA ?

Could it be that 1M owners expect or are not bothered by some harshness? Some rougher ride usually goes along with better handling performance.

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

The 1M/M3 does not use the same subframe. It is enhanced with provisions for a huge bashplate/reinforcement plate. I dare say this contributes significantly to the front end rigidity and takes the brunt of the forces transmitted by the ball jointed lower arms.

Driving a 1M back to back against my 135i with the TRW arms and the shocks are still there, but nowhere near as harsh.
It's on my list to find a suitable bush to replace the ball joints with. I don't think the E90 ones are the same size. We'll find a way to have the camber and some comfort

Originally Posted by juld0zer

The 1M/M3 does not use the same subframe. It is enhanced with provisions for a huge bashplate/reinforcement plate. I dare say this contributes significantly to the front end rigidity and takes the brunt of the forces transmitted by the ball jointed lower arms.

Driving a 1M back to back against my 135i with the TRW arms and the shocks are still there, but nowhere near as harsh.
It's on my list to find a suitable bush to replace the ball joints with. I don't think the E90 ones are the same size. We'll find a way to have the camber and some comfort

This WE i swapped the 1M tension arm by the oem one, and for me it is an acceptable trade off. Less NVH, keep the additionnal camber. Just a little lost of precision and road feeling.