[summersafe6168]

Hello Everyone,

Got hold of a 2006 325i project car.

Buyer stated following issues:
- MAF Sensor was unplugged, screwed it back on.
- Dead battery, bought new battery (right spec).
- When scanning car for codes using INPA, the main code that stands out is 2EF5 (thermostat?)

There are a few hair raising issues:
- Car starts but after running for 2-4 minutes or so, there is visible smoke emitting from the lefthand side of the engine bay, Video here: https://gofile.io/?c=oX4UY5
- Would a faulty thermostat cause such issues?

I've gone ahead and attached a few screenshots I took while running diagnostics on the car.
- As seen from the screenshot that has Dr.Gini Running, Water Pump, Fuel Pump and Oil Pressure readings don't look correct? (I may be wrong).

New Thermostat and WaterPump + Bolts are on the way, but given the smoke, does it look like this may be a blown valve cover gasket job too?

[N54_e90]

Definitely looks like a valve cover leak. Your valvetronic motor gasket is probably also leaking as well which is why the accumulation is so much there.

[summersafe6168]

Originally Posted by crazythedon

Definitely looks like a valve cover leak. Your valvetronic motor gasket is probably also leaking as well which is why the accumulation is so much there.

Thank you! We started today and it really is a mission to get the last bolt for the water pump out(the top one).

All the coolant is drained out as of now and tomorrow hopefully we can finish the pump. Given the two gaskets now, seems another weekend to kill.

Another thing we found difficult is on how to remove the hoses from the thermostat. One came off easy but there one with a spring clip which just doesn't seem to come off. Any pointers?

Thank you once again

[nsjames]

persistence is how you get the hose off from the water pump to thermostat.

be thankful it's not an XI.
I found it easiest to access the spring clamp from the wheel well through the side of that mess of stuff.
that let me get it turned enough to get at it from underneath well enough to get it loose.

I've heard that on the RWD modles theres enough space to pull the thermostat and pump out as an assembly. But no personal experience.
it's not going to happen on an XI model that's for sure.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by nsjames

persistence is how you get the hose off from the water pump to thermostat.
.

+1

The spring clip doesn't need to come off all the way, just need to be it pulled out so it is not in lock position.

Then work on the hose patiently, back and forth, tilt pull one and then other way and so on. No brute force, little by little. It is like glued in there for all those years it has been there. There is an o-ring inside that is sealing it also stuck in place that needs to be freed slowly.

[summersafe6168]

So quick update! Put in the new thermostat and water pump. Bled the system.
Code 2EF5 still exists. Car stalls on idle and yet to do valve cover. Any pointers to as why the thermostat code is still there (did clear and then tried to start the car).

[juld0zer]

Your MAF is very high for 550rpm

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by summersafe6168

So quick update! Put in the new thermostat and water pump. Bled the system.
Code 2EF5 still exists. Car stalls on idle and yet to do valve cover. Any pointers to as why the thermostat code is still there (did clear and then tried to start the car).

I have a '06 325 too. Before bimmerlabs made it very easy to flash from 325 to 330 software, I had bought a DME from ebay and had cloned it with BDM software (it being MSV70). I had the cloned DME in the car for a long one. I was getting thermostat code once in a while, and after reset it was always coming back, sooner or later. I replaced the thermostat once as remedy (which was already replaced not so a year ago). Then still the code came coming back. In the end I put the original DME back in to the car, the thermostat code never came back.
There may be some hardware revisions around thermostat sensor circuitry (maybe others too), or the Ebay one had broken circuitry around thermostat sensor input. Can't say or tell, but something to consider.

[summersafe6168]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

I have a '06 325 too. Before bimmerlabs made it very easy to flash from 325 to 330 software, I had bought a DME from ebay and had cloned it with BDM software (it being MSV70). I had the cloned DME in the car for a long one. I was getting thermostat code once in a while, and after reset it was always coming back, sooner or later. I replaced the thermostat once as remedy (which was already replaced not so a year ago). Then still the code came coming back. In the end I put the original DME back in to the car, the thermostat code never came back.
There may be some hardware revisions around thermostat sensor circuitry (maybe others too), or the Ebay one had broken circuitry around thermostat sensor input. Can't say or tell, but something to consider.

So update, ended up changing the cable and cleared codes. Now there is only one code and seems to be related to MAF sensor. Used Dr. Gini to get some gauges, fuel pump and oil pressure seems not normal? The car starts but idles down then stalls.

[juld0zer]

MSV70 has no oil pressure sensor support. Just an oil pressure switch.
Same with the fuel rail pressure - the figure you get is static.

Your MAF is reading too high. Do you have the standard airbox or aftermarket intake?
Sounds like the DME is overfuelling the engine based on the false data from the MAF. Your o2 sensors and STFT on both banks should be showing too rich (negative trims)

[summersafe6168]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

MSV70 has no oil pressure sensor support. Just an oil pressure switch.
Same with the fuel rail pressure - the figure you get is static.

Your MAF is reading too high. Do you have the standard airbox or aftermarket intake?
It sounds like the DME is over fuelling the engine based on the false data from the MAF. Your o2 sensors and STFT on both banks should be showing too rich (negative trims)

Thank you for the info the MSV70 having no oil pressure sensor. I have the standard airbox and it seems like the MAF sensor is bad. Any method to check the MAF sensor with a multimeter? I wanted to be sure before pulling the plug on a new one.

Would the fuel pump be an issue too? Or are those figures right? Thank you for the input! Appreciate it!