[Antetokounmpo]

I'm debating upgrading to the rear M3 ASB for my e90 because after my spring/shock install the rear could certainly use some refreshing from the jell-o bushings and tiny rsb. I DIY'd the shocks and springs and they were very easy to install, I know you have to drop the rear sub frame to do the RSB and I don't have enough stands to do that so I think I might have my indy do it. What do you think the book time on this is? Just wanting to get a feel before I call them. I'm thinking no more than 3 hours with the right tools.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by bk335

I'm debating upgrading to the rear M3 ASB for my e90 because after my spring/shock install the rear could certainly use some refreshing from the jell-o bushings and tiny rsb. I DIY'd the shocks and springs and they were very easy to install, I know you have to drop the rear sub frame to do the RSB and I don't have enough stands to do that so I think I might have my indy do it. What do you think the book time on this is? Just wanting to get a feel before I call them. I'm thinking no more than 3 hours with the right tools.

I did it in 2 hours, word of advice, get rid of M3 bushings and get powerflex black or purple bushings.

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by robc1976

I did it in 2 hours, word of advice, get rid of M3 bushings and get powerflex black or purple bushings.

Wow, that's quick! I am also thinking of doing bushings at the same time.

[spxxx]

2hrs with a lift, forever without a lift.

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by spxxx

2hrs with a lift, forever without a lift.

Good to know, thanks!

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by robc1976

I did it in 2 hours, word of advice, get rid of M3 bushings and get powerflex black or purple bushings.

2 hrs is flying if we're talking about car sitting on all 4 wheels to back on all 4 wheels. It me 2hrs just to get the old ones out with everything already dropped and removed out of the way using the awesome Robc extraction tool and DIY. I went with the black powerflex and the ass end is rock solid now. Whether you're paying to get it done or doing it yourself, do both at the same time. And would even throw in stainless mid brake lines too.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

2 hrs is flying if we're talking about car sitting on all 4 wheels to back on all 4 wheels. It me 2hrs just to get the old ones out with everything already dropped and removed out of the way using the awesome Robc extraction tool and DIY. I went with the black powerflex and the ass end is rock solid now. Whether you're paying to get it done or doing it yourself, do both at the same time. And would even throw in stainless mid brake lines too.

I went with sold delrin on the subframe bushings. Sway bar is, easy, you can actually do it without disconecting the brake lines.

The bushings I am referring to is the swaybar bushings, get rid of the M3

[LMB335IS]

My bad. Sway bar bushings are a breeze. Two hrs is about right

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

My bad. Sway bar bushings are a breeze. Two hrs is about right

3-4 fire SF bushings

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by robc1976

3-4 fire SF bushings

Dude, you've mastered that. I think you've done them at least 4 times if I remember correctly.

[mmmnot]

Originally Posted by robc1976

I did it in 2 hours, word of advice, get rid of M3 bushings and get powerflex black or purple bushings.

Turner solid bushings

[chatch10]

I thought an upgraded rear sway bar wasn't a good idea without a LSD?

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by chatch10

I thought an upgraded rear sway bar wasn't a good idea without a LSD?

It's not but to each their own. I would upgrade the RSB bushings to powerflex poly though.

[ajsalida]

So what is the problem people are having with M3 rear sway bar bushings?

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

So what is the problem people are having with M3 rear sway bar bushings?

I don't think there's a problem, the aftermarket bushings are a lot stiffer and make the rear end feel even more planted I believe.

[LMB335IS]

Bushing replacement is fine, it's the much stiffer M3 bar that causes issues in the rear without a LSD. It's pretty well documented on here. A quick search should pull up some threads on it.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by bk335

I don't think there's a problem, the aftermarket bushings are a lot stiffer and make the rear end feel even more planted I believe.

Well I installed the M3 bar myself and if there are any bushings harder than the M3 ones they're metal. M3 are a delrin 2-piece type and do not compress at all. Far harder than any poly I've ever seen.

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Well I installed the M3 bar myself and if there are any bushings harder than the M3 ones they're metal. M3 are a delrin 2-piece type and do not compress at all. Far harder than any poly I've ever seen.

Interesting. On ECS, the M3 sway bar kit comes with OEM bushings, which are just rubber.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335...ade/ES2622885/

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...y_Bar/ES51102/

[LMB335IS]

This is the stiffest rear sway bushing I can find.
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-32...0-e92-e82.aspx

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by bk335

Interesting. On ECS, the M3 sway bar kit comes with OEM bushings, which are just rubber.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335...ade/ES2622885/

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...y_Bar/ES51102/

They look like rubber but they're not, they are very hard delrin. The reason they are 2-piece is it would be impossible to install one piece, I mean zero flex. I think they use the same type material as bushings in M3 control arms but I may be mistaken.

Let me put it this way. It was harder to install the bushings than the bar itself. Reason was I could not fit the bar into the space between the lowered subframe with the bushings and brackets on the bar in the proper position. You have to press the two halves together and they snap in place. Then the bracket snaps on top of that, and once that's done it will not slide along the bar even with a lot of lube. So it was tricky for me at least to do all that in the limited space available with the bar already slid through. These are not ordinary soft rubber bushings, not even close.

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

They look like rubber but they're not, they are very hard delrin. The reason they are 2-piece is it would be impossible to install one piece, I mean zero flex. I think they use the same type material as bushings in M3 control arms but I may be mistaken.

Let me put it this way. It was harder to install the bushings than the bar itself. Reason was I could not fit the bar into the space between the lowered subframe with the bushings and brackets on the bar in the proper position. You have to press the two halves together and they snap in place. Then the bracket snaps on top of that, and once that's done it will not slide along the bar even with a lot of lube. So it was tricky for me at least to do all that in the limited space available with the bar already slid through. These are not ordinary soft rubber bushings, not even close.

I just figured they were rubber because the description says how the rubber bushings wear out over time, so I assumed those were rubber as well.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by bk335

I just figured they were rubber because the description says how the rubber bushings wear out over time, so I assumed those were rubber as well.

Well that may be true about wearing but they seemed pretty tough. If you look at the 4th pic on the ECS link and blow it up, you'll see they are pretty complicated little gizmos the way they snap together. Oh and they only fit one way when combined with the bracket.

BTW that might be the e9x M3 vert bar which is even stiffer than non-vert. I thought the non-vert was 22.5 mm but it's it's been a while. I got the non vert bar.

edit: OK that is the vert bar which IMHO is too stiff for non-M applications. See here for non vert part #

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_1411