[GMe90]

Originally Posted by ibrodishwash

im having a similiar problem. I have a 2011 328i and if i have the aircon on and i decide to speed up significantly, the car just dies on me completely. No power steering or anyhing and its dangerous. BMW is telling me its the alternator and battery but cant pinpoint what it is. Im basically scared to drive the thing now hahaha

My mechanic told me just turn the car back on if it shuts off while I am driving it on the highway. At first I laughed thinking he was joking, but I then realized that he was serious. Certainly not a long term solution. I know how you feel. When it first happened to me, I was scared to drive the car.

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by GMe90

My mechanic told me just turn the car back on if it shuts off while I am driving it on the highway. At first I laughed thinking he was joking, but I then realized that he was serious. Certainly not a long term solution. I know how you feel. When it first happened to me, I was scared to drive the car.

Certainly a good start

[leeks]

2011 325i N53: having the same issues that seems to happen randomly. Once whilst on the motorway (140kph) was not fun. Another at a stop light. I'm going to replace the battery and see if the issues persist. Worried that the DME is fried? How can I check?

Edit: Battery replaced. It as an OEM that's been there since 08/2011

[e90_mark]

Did anyone ever come to a conclusion on this issue? I'm having the exact problem OP stated.

[foxfire235]

Same problem here. Any updates?

[brandon-335i]

hey my car randomly died on me when i was slowing down and now it wont turn on again.

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by ibrodishwash

im having a similiar problem. I have a 2011 328i and if i have the aircon on and i decide to speed up significantly, the car just dies on me completely. No power steering or anyhing and its dangerous. BMW is telling me its the alternator and battery but cant pinpoint what it is. Im basically scared to drive the thing now hahaha

Had this issue a few weeks ago after I had unplugged the battery to do some DIY work on the car.

Was driving down the highway 60 mph. Nav screen and odometer went black for a few seconds then everything boot back up again.

Got to my location checked everything under the hood and car started fine.

Driving back home and hit a soft speed bump around 30 mph and everything went blank again for a few seconds before coming back on.

Hitting the bump made me realize where to look and you guessed it....

Funny enough that positive terminal bolt seems like something that can come loose on it's own.

[HANKEN]

[QUOTE=John 070;20313945]bizarre that your ABS module failing would shut off the car. I accidentally turned my ignition on when the module was out, and the wipers turned on high speed (could not be turned off), and the airbag warning activated.

When it was faulty and in the car, it merely lit up the trifecta meaning I had no ABS, DSC, nor cruise.

My guess is that you observed the symptom, but the pump was not the root cause. Just going by my experience and having replaced the ABS pump myself.
Bad ABS pump could cause moving shutoff?

[paulorsm]

Hi guys, I'm from Brazil, new on forum.

I enter here just to share how I solved this problem on my BMW 325, E90 LCI, 32.500 km on dash.

The car's engine was stop during driving, or in braking condition, and no codes on ECU. It was replaced the battery, and the problem begin.

I checked with the scanner (NT510) and I notice that the main voltage of the system was dropping and then then the car stops.

This problem was caused by loosen main positive and negative nuts on battery compartment. Firstly, when I replaced the battery, I tighted them with a good tool but not enough to provide a good electrical connection.

So, after check a lot of connections, fuses, relays, I decided to check the battery terminals because the system does not register any codes, giving me the idea that the system was just fast being shutting down (like a tv that we remove the AC plug from the power source on the wall).

I got my torq wrench and tight the nuts with the correct torq shown near positive terminal (+ - 15 N.m on 10 mm nut). When I begin to tight them, I noticed that they was tighted very below the nominal torque value.

After that, the problem has gone, car is now reliable to drive again.

My car is a 2008/2009 model, but have only 32.500 km on the dash. It is very new.

I hope to helped.

Best regards,
Paulo
Brazil

[DaFenixBeemer]

I’ve had the same problem with my E90. I’ve had it for about 7 years. And since I bought it, it has given me a lot of electrical issues. To the point that it almost burned down on me one day. I have my personal mechanic and i’ve worked with him with all the issues. I had issues with it overheating and turning off while driving. I changed the water pump, I changed the radiator fan, the dealership replaced the fan cabling due to recall. And I recently had the overheating yet again. It turns out that the 30g Relax has been malfunctioning for a long time. The 30g Relay controls a lot of the electronic parts in the car. And it only costs $26 at the dealership. That Relay caused my Fan Control Module to short out and die. It also drained my battery completely. My Dash Screen would also keep turning off and I would get ABS/ESC system messages. Nobody would diagnose this issue until I saw a video on youtube describing the importance of the 15 and 30g Relays in the E90s. So I went to the dealership and ordered the part. And all the crazyness in the cars topped. Now, I’m just working on replacing the Radiador Fan. And all should be set with the car. Is important to remember that with all these hot days now days. Some of those relays are more prone to go bad and cause a lot of issues with vehicles. That’s why I love these forums because of the good info that comes out of them. Best of luck guys.