Master windows switch problem

kavadarci · 05-22-2012, 09:31 PM

Hi,

Since I got my car a month ago I am having a strange problem with the driver's side windows\lock\mirrors switch.

The switch works 40% of the time, no idea what triggers the working\non working scenario.
Sometimes might start working while i am driving and sometimes might stop working while i'm driving. all the other door switches on the car work fine.

What i have noticed is:
if i hold the power window down switch for more than few seconds the switch "MIGHT" start working, this is inconsistent also.
If i open the drivers door while the switch is not working in about 20-25 seconds the switch "MIGHT" start working.

I can see the illuminated red glow just fine and everytime.
I have removed the panel and all the connections are tight.

Can someone advise what might be causing this behavior, bmw quoted me 150 bucks for a new switch but i am not convinced it is the switch.

I would greatly appreciate any guidance on this problem.
Thank you.

RimasRS · 05-23-2012, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kavadarci

Hi,

Since I got my car a month ago I am having a strange problem with the driver's side windows\lock\mirrors switch.

The switch works 40% of the time, no idea what triggers the working\non working scenario.
Sometimes might start working while i am driving and sometimes might stop working while i'm driving. all the other door switches on the car work fine.

What i have noticed is:
if i hold the power window down switch for more than few seconds the switch "MIGHT" start working, this is inconsistent also.
If i open the drivers door while the switch is not working in about 20-25 seconds the switch "MIGHT" start working.

I can see the illuminated red glow just fine and everytime.
I have removed the panel and all the connections are tight.

Can someone advise what might be causing this behavior, bmw quoted me 150 bucks for a new switch but i am not convinced it is the switch.

I would greatly appreciate any guidance on this problem.
Thank you.

Did you find out what it was I started to have same problems. WTF

kavadarci · 05-23-2012, 11:41 AM

No, I haven't and I can't be the only one.
I found something on the internet (can't find it again) but the guy had the same problem and bmw dealer ended up (at least that's what he was told) replacing a connector in the a-pillar that was rusted.

I checked on mine and there are no connectors in there.

I think it has to do with a connection somewhere that is loose or an actual part problem but I am lost, not sure where to start.

Here is a suggestion from a bmw mechanic:

It's most likely a failed switch. The switch is on a bus system with the other door switches. If the only switch that doesn't work is the drivers side then it is usually the problem. I would go ahead and pull the door connector and check for any signs of corrosion. (between the door and a-pillar) If no corrosion is present then replace the switch assembly.

How do I get to this door connector between the door and a pillar?

snoozee · 08-30-2012, 09:40 PM

for those who have this problem, I found that the problem is failed capacitors inside the switch pack. the solution is either to replace the switch pack or to replace the failed capcitors.

here's a pic I took of the failed capacitors inside the switch pack. you can see the leakage from the capacitors near the base.

kavadarci · 08-31-2012, 07:33 AM

Great pic.
In your case that means "new" switch probably but my board is clean as new.

snoozee · 08-31-2012, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kavadarci

Great pic.
In your case that means "new" switch probably but my board is clean as new.

i have managed to fix it by replacing the damaged capacitors. only thing is that the rear windows lock seems to be permantly ON and can't be turned off. Not sure if there's some damage elsewhere. It's not a big issue since I have install sun shades on the rear windows and rear passengers can't wind them down anyway.

RimasRS · 06-12-2013, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snoozee

i have managed to fix it by replacing the damaged capacitors. only thing is that the rear windows lock seems to be permantly ON and can't be turned off. Not sure if there's some damage elsewhere. It's not a big issue since I have install sun shades on the rear windows and rear passengers can't wind them down anyway.

Great find I have to get back to my problem. The strange thing that mine does not work when car is parked in the sun and it is becoming hot inside after driving the car it cools down and starts to operate normally again...

BIFCAIDS · 07-23-2013, 06:30 PM

Im having this problem with my rear windows and the rear window lock button.

If the lights off then they shouldn't be locked but rear passengers cant drop the windows and the only person who can is me. But if I drop the window and they go to put it up a little it goes all the way up. FML.

But If I reach back and work the switch I hear it "click" but nothing happens.

Josefinoe · 11-18-2014, 02:21 PM

Hey, sorry for bumping this old thread but I'm having the same problem and can't seem to find the part number for the circuit board so that I can replace it. Which i've been told will require me to remove the door panel (ohgod). Does anybody have the part number? And is removing the door panel easy? Thanks in advance!

hockeyplayer · 11-18-2014, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josefinoe

Hey, sorry for bumping this old thread but I'm having the same problem and can't seem to find the part number for the circuit board so that I can replace it. Which i've been told will require me to remove the door panel (ohgod). Does anybody have the part number? And is removing the door panel easy? Thanks in advance!

Removing the door panel is actually quite easy. You will definitely want to buy a non-marking pry tool for a few dollars from somewhere like amazon. I got a set of them for around $10 if I remember correctly.

This video will walk you through the door panel removal:

Good luck & have fun

Josefinoe · 11-18-2014, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hockeyplayer

Removing the door panel is actually quite easy. You will definitely want to buy a non-marking pry tool for a few dollars from somewhere like amazon. I got a set of them for around $10 if I remember correctly.

This video will walk you through the door panel removal:

Good luck & have fun

Thanks that will be of great help!

regarding finding the part I'd love it if anyone could help me, I have gotten until here:

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E9...window_lifter/

but after running a VIN decoder, it turns out I have all 3 options, auto dim, seat adjuster with memmory and the fold in mirrors, and I find no answer for that in the list, my current one looks exactly like the one in the diagram. Will this solve my problem anyway? I'm assuming it comes with the circuit board which supposedly stopped working

Pilot1981 · 09-11-2015, 03:07 PM

Hi,
I'm looking to solve problem of all led not working...

where I can find electrical schema of BMW E90 mirror switch driver side PN 9132135?

E92JNB · 02-06-2019, 10:22 PM

Please help!! Window problem
I have a 2007 328i coupe. I had trouble with my driver's window not working going up and down. The driver switch for Windows , can't work on passenger window, mirror adjustments, it's like it's dead or something. The mirrors also kept making this ticking sound like it wanted to turn Everytime I start the car and a little while driving. Well, today my coworker wanted to show me how to put the windows down using the key fob. So, he did and my driver's, passengers, and sunroof did which I was truly amazed because I didn't know it could do that (sorry I'm a newbie) well, I was ecstatic. but when I started my car, and tried to put the window up on my driver side, it didn't go up! So now I'm stuck with a driver window all the way down and it's raining. So I bought a car cover for now. The passenger and sunroof works though. I just cant control the passenger window from the driver switch, only works if I lean over and use the passenger switch. Please help, I'm trying to do DIY before I take it and spend a fortune. My coworker tried to help and we saw this post that if we disconnected the cable for the side mirrors. It should work. We did that but still didn't work at all. The only thing upside is that the mirrors don't make any ticking sound now.

fumigator · 02-08-2019, 07:38 AM

i have a 2007 335i sedan i have struggled with a rear window. the regulator failed and i have replaced but the window operation is still sketchy. i am gonna look into the master switch as a possible participant in the problem. the anti-trap keeps trying to block the window down. my scan tool (CARLY) has decided to crap the bed on me at a very inopportune time as well. all the phun. i have repeatedly tried to do the window re-initialization process but i can't tell that it has changed anything.

i know at one point i got a window error before i replaced the window regulator. i have not since but with my code reader out of commission i can't tell if the latent error message is there and still causing a conflict.

update: pulled out the master switch and gave a clean with MAF cleaner best i could with no change. also did the passenger door switch as well as i was restoring the door panel. doesn't appear to have made any difference.

redsn0 · 05-08-2019, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E92JNB

Please help!! Window problem
I have a 2007 328i coupe. I had trouble with my driver's window not working going up and down. The driver switch for Windows , can't work on passenger window, mirror adjustments, it's like it's dead or something. The mirrors also kept making this ticking sound like it wanted to turn Everytime I start the car and a little while driving. Well, today my coworker wanted to show me how to put the windows down using the key fob. So, he did and my driver's, passengers, and sunroof did which I was truly amazed because I didn't know it could do that (sorry I'm a newbie) well, I was ecstatic. but when I started my car, and tried to put the window up on my driver side, it didn't go up! So now I'm stuck with a driver window all the way down and it's raining. So I bought a car cover for now. The passenger and sunroof works though. I just cant control the passenger window from the driver switch, only works if I lean over and use the passenger switch. Please help, I'm trying to do DIY before I take it and spend a fortune. My coworker tried to help and we saw this post that if we disconnected the cable for the side mirrors. It should work. We did that but still didn't work at all. The only thing upside is that the mirrors don't make any ticking sound now.

Same problem on my 2008 328xi coupe (123,000 miles)
Have you found a fix for this? I’ve been stuck with the murrors ticking and driver side window switch not working... but the passenger one works.

ewicky · 05-08-2019, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fumigator

i have a 2007 335i sedan i have struggled with a rear window. the regulator failed and i have replaced but the window operation is still sketchy... the anti-trap keeps trying to block the window down.

I have this issue. The plastic piece in the original regulator failed over time, and I replaced the regulator with the amazon special. It now anti-traps when rolling up, but only at the very bottom. If I repeatedly briefly trigger the window up (not one touch) to get it an inch or so up, then it can one touch up the rest of the way without any anti-trap. That lead me to what I believe is the cause:

-Anti-trap works by detecting a significant drop in the rotation speed (not current draw spike, as I assumed)
-The amazon special regulator has a pretty loose cable loop
-Starting from fully open, the motor has to pull up all the slack in the cable before the glass actually starts moving
-When the glass starts moving, it drags/slows the motor a normal amount that is also, sadly, enough to trip anti-trap

The solution is to tighten the cable on the regulator. If it's tight enough (like OEM), then the glass should begin moving more immediately, so the anti-trap won't see the speed drop. I haven't yet figured out how to tighten the cable, but I also haven't really tried. I'm just driving around with no door card until I bother to investigate further.

Alienmarshall · 09-25-2020, 04:40 PM

I am having a similar issue but the only thing not working are the two window switches on the drivers door (e92 coupe), the mirrors are in the same switch assembly and they work fine, the passenger window switch works fine, and the drivers and passenger windows both move up and down when you open or close the door as they should. I am thinking it’s a bad switch but also need help determining it it is the frm- how would I know if it’s an issue in the frm?

Arden · 01-17-2021, 12:17 AM

Thank you Ewicky. I do believe you've hit it on the head I'm on my second replacement switch in under a year at 140 bucks a pop. And none too happy. But I am now that there's a solution. Again THANK YOU Ewicky.

FaceDeAce · 06-08-2021, 11:27 PM

The issue is still going strong. I am having same problem with the drivers door window and mirror switch block. I have not figured it out yet either. Any new information to send me in the right direction, please let me know.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1831677

xxxdjekixxx · 06-11-2023, 02:00 PM

I had same issue on my 2010 X5 30i. After replacing 30 AMP fuse, problem was still there. It would work sometimes and then stop again. I began search for break in the wiring. Sure thing, it is white and brown wire but it was at the door connector. Once I took it apart, I saw corrosion everywhere. One of the pins (white and brown wire one) broke off from the corrosion. It all made sense. Cleaned out with electronics cleaner and soft bristle brush, replaced the pin connector and voila , working like a charm.

As always please remember to disconnect your negative terminal on your battery first before doing any of said work.

05-22-2012, 09:31 PM	#1
kavadarci Lieutenant 43 Rep 568 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: canada iTrader: (0)	Master windows switch problem Hi, Since I got my car a month ago I am having a strange problem with the driver's side windows\lock\mirrors switch. The switch works 40% of the time, no idea what triggers the working\non working scenario. Sometimes might start working while i am driving and sometimes might stop working while i'm driving. all the other door switches on the car work fine. What i have noticed is: if i hold the power window down switch for more than few seconds the switch "MIGHT" start working, this is inconsistent also. If i open the drivers door while the switch is not working in about 20-25 seconds the switch "MIGHT" start working. I can see the illuminated red glow just fine and everytime. I have removed the panel and all the connections are tight. Can someone advise what might be causing this behavior, bmw quoted me 150 bucks for a new switch but i am not convinced it is the switch. I would greatly appreciate any guidance on this problem. Thank you.
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05-23-2012, 11:41 AM	#3
kavadarci Lieutenant 43 Rep 568 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: canada iTrader: (0)	No, I haven't and I can't be the only one. I found something on the internet (can't find it again) but the guy had the same problem and bmw dealer ended up (at least that's what he was told) replacing a connector in the a-pillar that was rusted. I checked on mine and there are no connectors in there. I think it has to do with a connection somewhere that is loose or an actual part problem but I am lost, not sure where to start. Here is a suggestion from a bmw mechanic: It's most likely a failed switch. The switch is on a bus system with the other door switches. If the only switch that doesn't work is the drivers side then it is usually the problem. I would go ahead and pull the door connector and check for any signs of corrosion. (between the door and a-pillar) If no corrosion is present then replace the switch assembly. How do I get to this door connector between the door and a pillar? Last edited by kavadarci; 05-23-2012 at 11:52 AM..
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08-30-2012, 09:40 PM	#4
snoozee Second Lieutenant 4 Rep 213 Posts Drives: 318i Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Singapore iTrader: (0)	for those who have this problem, I found that the problem is failed capacitors inside the switch pack. the solution is either to replace the switch pack or to replace the failed capcitors. here's a pic I took of the failed capacitors inside the switch pack. you can see the leakage from the capacitors near the base.
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08-31-2012, 07:33 AM	#5
kavadarci Lieutenant 43 Rep 568 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: canada iTrader: (0)	Great pic. In your case that means "new" switch probably but my board is clean as new.
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07-23-2013, 06:30 PM	#8
BIFCAIDS Bird Flu and Cat Aids combined 857 Rep 1,122 Posts Drives: F30 340i M-Sport+ MPPSK E92 M3 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Manchester iTrader: (0)	Im having this problem with my rear windows and the rear window lock button. If the lights off then they shouldn't be locked but rear passengers cant drop the windows and the only person who can is me. But if I drop the window and they go to put it up a little it goes all the way up. FML. But If I reach back and work the switch I hear it "click" but nothing happens.
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11-18-2014, 02:21 PM	#9
Josefinoe Enlisted Member 19 Rep 46 Posts Drives: e92 M3 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Lebanon iTrader: (0)	Hey, sorry for bumping this old thread but I'm having the same problem and can't seem to find the part number for the circuit board so that I can replace it. Which i've been told will require me to remove the door panel (ohgod). Does anybody have the part number? And is removing the door panel easy? Thanks in advance!
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09-11-2015, 03:07 PM	#12
Pilot1981 Private 5 Rep 62 Posts Drives: Bmw 320d xdrive lci Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Italy iTrader: (0)	Hi, I'm looking to solve problem of all led not working... where I can find electrical schema of BMW E90 mirror switch driver side PN 9132135?
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02-06-2019, 10:22 PM	#13
E92JNB New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 07 e92 Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: New Jersey iTrader: (0)	Please help!! Window problem I have a 2007 328i coupe. I had trouble with my driver's window not working going up and down. The driver switch for Windows , can't work on passenger window, mirror adjustments, it's like it's dead or something. The mirrors also kept making this ticking sound like it wanted to turn Everytime I start the car and a little while driving. Well, today my coworker wanted to show me how to put the windows down using the key fob. So, he did and my driver's, passengers, and sunroof did which I was truly amazed because I didn't know it could do that (sorry I'm a newbie) well, I was ecstatic. but when I started my car, and tried to put the window up on my driver side, it didn't go up! So now I'm stuck with a driver window all the way down and it's raining. So I bought a car cover for now. The passenger and sunroof works though. I just cant control the passenger window from the driver switch, only works if I lean over and use the passenger switch. Please help, I'm trying to do DIY before I take it and spend a fortune. My coworker tried to help and we saw this post that if we disconnected the cable for the side mirrors. It should work. We did that but still didn't work at all. The only thing upside is that the mirrors don't make any ticking sound now.
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02-08-2019, 07:38 AM	#14
fumigator New Member 0 Rep 8 Posts Drives: 07 335i sedan, 01 330Ci conv, Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: South Carolina iTrader: (0) Garage List 2001 BMW 330Ci conv. [0.00] 2000 BMW 328Ci coupe [0.00] 2007 BMW 335i sedan [0.00]	i have a 2007 335i sedan i have struggled with a rear window. the regulator failed and i have replaced but the window operation is still sketchy. i am gonna look into the master switch as a possible participant in the problem. the anti-trap keeps trying to block the window down. my scan tool (CARLY) has decided to crap the bed on me at a very inopportune time as well. all the phun. i have repeatedly tried to do the window re-initialization process but i can't tell that it has changed anything. i know at one point i got a window error before i replaced the window regulator. i have not since but with my code reader out of commission i can't tell if the latent error message is there and still causing a conflict. update: pulled out the master switch and gave a clean with MAF cleaner best i could with no change. also did the passenger door switch as well as i was restoring the door panel. doesn't appear to have made any difference. Last edited by fumigator; 02-08-2019 at 08:57 AM..
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09-25-2020, 04:40 PM	#17
Alienmarshall Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: Bmw e92 Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Boise idaho iTrader: (0)	I am having a similar issue but the only thing not working are the two window switches on the drivers door (e92 coupe), the mirrors are in the same switch assembly and they work fine, the passenger window switch works fine, and the drivers and passenger windows both move up and down when you open or close the door as they should. I am thinking it’s a bad switch but also need help determining it it is the frm- how would I know if it’s an issue in the frm?
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01-17-2021, 12:17 AM	#18
Arden Registered 2 Rep 2 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 328i coupe 2002 325ci Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: washington state, USA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2010 BMW 328i [0.00]	Thank you Ewicky. I do believe you've hit it on the head I'm on my second replacement switch in under a year at 140 bucks a pop. And none too happy. But I am now that there's a solution. Again THANK YOU Ewicky. Last edited by Arden; 01-17-2021 at 12:18 AM.. Reason: Mispelling
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06-08-2021, 11:27 PM	#19
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	The issue is still going strong. I am having same problem with the drivers door window and mirror switch block. I have not figured it out yet either. Any new information to send me in the right direction, please let me know. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1831677
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06-11-2023, 02:00 PM	#20
xxxdjekixxx Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: 2006 325xi 2008 528xi Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Detroit MI iTrader: (0)	I had same issue on my 2010 X5 30i. After replacing 30 AMP fuse, problem was still there. It would work sometimes and then stop again. I began search for break in the wiring. Sure thing, it is white and brown wire but it was at the door connector. Once I took it apart, I saw corrosion everywhere. One of the pins (white and brown wire one) broke off from the corrosion. It all made sense. Cleaned out with electronics cleaner and soft bristle brush, replaced the pin connector and voila , working like a charm. As always please remember to disconnect your negative terminal on your battery first before doing any of said work.
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