E90 328 Rear Brake replacement

stoweboarder720 · 05-30-2018, 04:52 PM

Hi guys, I'm currently planning to replace the rear brakes in my 2011 328 xDrive since the CBS system says they're due. I plan to check the pads and rotors before I go through with replacing them since I've been told they can be a bit off. Either way, I just wanted to verify the parts I have chosen for the job and my reasoning since I've read a bunch of threads and some have conflicting information. I've read the in these vehicles the pads and rotors are meant to wear together, and thus should be replaced together (which seems surprising to me).

Rotors: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-zimmerma...16864901zimkt/

I read the Zimmerman rotors are a great replacement and I'm confident with them. I've also read conflicting things about if rotors need to be ground when new to make sure the surface is flat, but then read that coated rotors such as these are good to go, so not sure which is correct?

Pads: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-textar-p...216790761~tex/

Chose Textar cause I found they're the OEM set and I'm told they provide better stopping power than ceramic alternatives (I don't really care about dust).

Pad Wear Sensor: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/34356792564/

Using the OE part since ECS didn't have the OEM Bowa sensor that fit my car's production date. I'm told that the cheaper aftermarket alternatives have questionable fit, but then read some good experiences, but would rather not take the chance.

I also plan to purchase a couple packets of Anti Squeal Grease and that's it. Would you guys recommend anything else for the job besides the obvious tools? Also, please let me know if there are any objections to the parts! I read a couple DIYs online and the job seems very doable, I was worried about the pad/rotor alignment but the brackets seem to take care of that for me.

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

r4dr · 05-31-2018, 12:20 AM

Yes, factory gospel is that new pads mean new rotors. They also say not to turn the rotors. Some people on here have re-used rotors and or had them turned, I personally see no reason to argue with BMW.

New quality rotors will not need to be ground. Zimmerman is what I've used. You do not need to wipe the finish off of the rotor, it comes off of the contact patch with your first couple stops.

Textar is an OEM for BMW, their pads are pretty close to what came with the car. I just put a set of Akebono ceramics on my girlfriend's Mini and I will be using that in the future. Any brake pad will give you the same "stopping power" for the street -- the only test there is if they have enough friction to lock up and trigger ABS, and anything will do that.

I felt no difference with ceramics and I really don't want more corrosion on my wheels from the dust. But either way you are fine.

I never bought anti-squeal grease and I've never really had squealing issues. If you do use them, remember to limit their use to the actual contact patches. Don't dab it all around.

A stubby hex bit (7 mm I think) for the guide pins helps a lot when you're fussing around in the rear. For the fronts in the future, you can turn the steering one way or another to give you a ton of room.

I hope you have a way to compress the pistons. Remember to drain off some brake fluid from the reservoir, if your pads are really worn, pushing the pistons in a fair amount will overflow the reservoir since the fluid returns there. Ask me how I know... doh.

r4dr · 05-31-2018, 12:22 AM

I forgot to add, your rotor set screws might be seized to the hub. Use a torch, do not use an impact wrench. You want to minimize your chances of stripping that screw. Heat it up, use a ratchet. If it doesn't budge, heat it some more.

I would buy new set screws just in case and put anti-seize on them when you put them back in. Remember they don't need to be overly tight, they literally just hold the rotor in place until wheels go back on.

Since you will have the rear end on jack stands (I'm assuming), you should make sure you can get both of those out successfully after you get the wheels off before continuing past that. If you can't get them out yourself, then consider calling your favorite indie mechanic.

stoweboarder720 · 05-31-2018, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r4dr

Yes, factory gospel is that new pads mean new rotors. They also say not to turn the rotors. Some people on here have re-used rotors and or had them turned, I personally see no reason to argue with BMW.

New quality rotors will not need to be ground. Zimmerman is what I've used. You do not need to wipe the finish off of the rotor, it comes off of the contact patch with your first couple stops.

Textar is an OEM for BMW, their pads are pretty close to what came with the car. I just put a set of Akebono ceramics on my girlfriend's Mini and I will be using that in the future. Any brake pad will give you the same "stopping power" for the street -- the only test there is if they have enough friction to lock up and trigger ABS, and anything will do that.

I felt no difference with ceramics and I really don't want more corrosion on my wheels from the dust. But either way you are fine.

I never bought anti-squeal grease and I've never really had squealing issues. If you do use them, remember to limit their use to the actual contact patches. Don't dab it all around.

A stubby hex bit (7 mm I think) for the guide pins helps a lot when you're fussing around in the rear. For the fronts in the future, you can turn the steering one way or another to give you a ton of room.

I hope you have a way to compress the pistons. Remember to drain off some brake fluid from the reservoir, if your pads are really worn, pushing the pistons in a fair amount will overflow the reservoir since the fluid returns there. Ask me how I know... doh.

Wow, thanks a ton for all that info! I'll probably pass on the anti squeal in that case, though I'll probably want to pick up some anti sieze for the hub and rotor. I've also heard brake grease for the pad carriers is a good idea from a couple places but overall not many.

I was mostly sticking with OEM pads based on the above reasons but what you said I agree with. Since I'm not tracking it I'm guessing I'll see no difference.

Currently I have no specialized tool to compress the Piston so I'm guessing I should pick one up given that I plan to do my brakes for all my future BMW's.

Lastly, any comments on the wear sensor? If not, nbd, I know the OEM one will work and installation is pretty straightforward. I would short it, but am trying to keep the vehicle factory spec given that I plan to sell and upgrade to a 335is within a couple years.

labrador · 05-31-2018, 09:46 PM

Zimmermann is an excellent aftermarket brand made in Germany. I have used many of them. For brake pads I use ATE, who makes the calipers and I think the master cylinder too. Their pads are getting harder to find.

Another German brand that costs less and are easier to find would be Pagid. I have used these too to a lesser extent.

BOTH the Zimmermann and Pagid rotors are coated so you do not see the ugly rust as in cheap rotors. Install the new as is, no cleaning or machining.

I would not use Akebono ceramic pads or other generic brands because complaints of the lack of initial bite. I prefer the strong OEM bite even if they dust more. Your preference may vary.

Just make sure you get a brake pad certified to European Regulation 90 ("90R-" printed on pads), you would be as good as factory spec. Below is a picture of Pagid pad.

You can find the rotor and pads on rockauto.com. All three items for about $100 plus shipping. Search up a discount code. Get the part numbers from Pagid brake guide and use that as a reference on rockauto’s catalog, as they tend to mix multiple variations together.

See if yours are: pads 355011301 which my RWD also uses. Your rotors are different — 355117832 if I searched correctly.

Find CRC Silaramic brake grease on Amazon. And use it on pad to bracket contact points and the back of pads where the caliper contacts them. See Pagid installation instructions. Use none on the rubber caliper guide pin boots (Carlson 16113, $5/axle).

http://brakeguide.hella-pagid.com/hp...atasheet.xhtml

Pagid 355011301 (T1447) pad:

Well packed with a new mounting bolt and instructions:

stoweboarder720 · 06-03-2018, 06:45 PM

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm gonna go with the Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads with the OE pad wear sensor (stupid that ECS doesn't have the OEM version, eating that cost). I'll also pick up some brake grease and anti seize at my local parts shop cause both of those seem recommended. So, the links earlier in the post are pretty much unchanged! If you guys have any objections I won't be ordering until the morning. Thanks again!

05-30-2018, 04:52 PM	#1
stoweboarder720 Private 31 Rep 87 Posts Drives: '11 E92 335is Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	E90 328 Rear Brake replacement Hi guys, I'm currently planning to replace the rear brakes in my 2011 328 xDrive since the CBS system says they're due. I plan to check the pads and rotors before I go through with replacing them since I've been told they can be a bit off. Either way, I just wanted to verify the parts I have chosen for the job and my reasoning since I've read a bunch of threads and some have conflicting information. I've read the in these vehicles the pads and rotors are meant to wear together, and thus should be replaced together (which seems surprising to me). Rotors: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-zimmerma...16864901zimkt/ I read the Zimmerman rotors are a great replacement and I'm confident with them. I've also read conflicting things about if rotors need to be ground when new to make sure the surface is flat, but then read that coated rotors such as these are good to go, so not sure which is correct? Pads: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-textar-p...216790761~tex/ Chose Textar cause I found they're the OEM set and I'm told they provide better stopping power than ceramic alternatives (I don't really care about dust). Pad Wear Sensor: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/34356792564/ Using the OE part since ECS didn't have the OEM Bowa sensor that fit my car's production date. I'm told that the cheaper aftermarket alternatives have questionable fit, but then read some good experiences, but would rather not take the chance. I also plan to purchase a couple packets of Anti Squeal Grease and that's it. Would you guys recommend anything else for the job besides the obvious tools? Also, please let me know if there are any objections to the parts! I read a couple DIYs online and the job seems very doable, I was worried about the pad/rotor alignment but the brackets seem to take care of that for me. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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05-31-2018, 12:20 AM	#2
r4dr First Lieutenant 172 Rep 392 Posts Drives: various BMWs Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Seattle, WA iTrader: (0)	Yes, factory gospel is that new pads mean new rotors. They also say not to turn the rotors. Some people on here have re-used rotors and or had them turned, I personally see no reason to argue with BMW. New quality rotors will not need to be ground. Zimmerman is what I've used. You do not need to wipe the finish off of the rotor, it comes off of the contact patch with your first couple stops. Textar is an OEM for BMW, their pads are pretty close to what came with the car. I just put a set of Akebono ceramics on my girlfriend's Mini and I will be using that in the future. Any brake pad will give you the same "stopping power" for the street -- the only test there is if they have enough friction to lock up and trigger ABS, and anything will do that. I felt no difference with ceramics and I really don't want more corrosion on my wheels from the dust. But either way you are fine. I never bought anti-squeal grease and I've never really had squealing issues. If you do use them, remember to limit their use to the actual contact patches. Don't dab it all around. A stubby hex bit (7 mm I think) for the guide pins helps a lot when you're fussing around in the rear. For the fronts in the future, you can turn the steering one way or another to give you a ton of room. I hope you have a way to compress the pistons. Remember to drain off some brake fluid from the reservoir, if your pads are really worn, pushing the pistons in a fair amount will overflow the reservoir since the fluid returns there. Ask me how I know... doh.
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05-31-2018, 12:22 AM	#3
r4dr First Lieutenant 172 Rep 392 Posts Drives: various BMWs Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Seattle, WA iTrader: (0)	I forgot to add, your rotor set screws might be seized to the hub. Use a torch, do not use an impact wrench. You want to minimize your chances of stripping that screw. Heat it up, use a ratchet. If it doesn't budge, heat it some more. I would buy new set screws just in case and put anti-seize on them when you put them back in. Remember they don't need to be overly tight, they literally just hold the rotor in place until wheels go back on. Since you will have the rear end on jack stands (I'm assuming), you should make sure you can get both of those out successfully after you get the wheels off before continuing past that. If you can't get them out yourself, then consider calling your favorite indie mechanic.
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05-31-2018, 09:46 PM	#5
labrador Second Lieutenant 65 Rep 218 Posts Drives: E90 Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: California iTrader: (0)	Zimmermann is an excellent aftermarket brand made in Germany. I have used many of them. For brake pads I use ATE, who makes the calipers and I think the master cylinder too. Their pads are getting harder to find. Another German brand that costs less and are easier to find would be Pagid. I have used these too to a lesser extent. BOTH the Zimmermann and Pagid rotors are coated so you do not see the ugly rust as in cheap rotors. Install the new as is, no cleaning or machining. I would not use Akebono ceramic pads or other generic brands because complaints of the lack of initial bite. I prefer the strong OEM bite even if they dust more. Your preference may vary. Just make sure you get a brake pad certified to European Regulation 90 ("90R-" printed on pads), you would be as good as factory spec. Below is a picture of Pagid pad. You can find the rotor and pads on rockauto.com. All three items for about $100 plus shipping. Search up a discount code. Get the part numbers from Pagid brake guide and use that as a reference on rockauto’s catalog, as they tend to mix multiple variations together. See if yours are: pads 355011301 which my RWD also uses. Your rotors are different — 355117832 if I searched correctly. Find CRC Silaramic brake grease on Amazon. And use it on pad to bracket contact points and the back of pads where the caliper contacts them. See Pagid installation instructions. Use none on the rubber caliper guide pin boots (Carlson 16113, $5/axle). http://brakeguide.hella-pagid.com/hp...atasheet.xhtml Pagid 355011301 (T1447) pad: Well packed with a new mounting bolt and instructions: Last edited by labrador; 06-02-2018 at 05:07 PM..
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06-03-2018, 06:45 PM	#6
stoweboarder720 Private 31 Rep 87 Posts Drives: '11 E92 335is Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Thanks for all the info guys. I'm gonna go with the Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads with the OE pad wear sensor (stupid that ECS doesn't have the OEM version, eating that cost). I'll also pick up some brake grease and anti seize at my local parts shop cause both of those seem recommended. So, the links earlier in the post are pretty much unchanged! If you guys have any objections I won't be ordering until the morning. Thanks again!
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