[jwzimm]

Originally Posted by freon480

so now you have no axle going through wheel bearing? really? love to see whst happens in a few months. im subscribed to this rediculousness. in all seriousness. very dangerous. I could see maybe if u swapped to a rwd spindle/bearing but the awd bearing needs an axle going through it or it will come apart. its only a matter of tim

He didn't remove the axles. He removed the driveshaft going from the transfer case to the front differential. The front axles are still in place and turn; they just don't get any power input.

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by jwzimm

He didn't remove the axles. He removed the driveshaft going from the transfer case to the front differential. The front axles are still in place and turn; they just don't get any power input.

This is correct. Still rolling RWD while I find the time to have someone look at the input shaft to the differential. It is loose as shit and the source ofy journey from replacing both wheel bearings (myself) to changing diff fluid (2x..denial) and then to removing the front drive shaft. Once I did that the noise that was driving me insane went away. When I was under the car pulling the shaft out it was immediately obvious that the input shaft was the source of all the racket. Now I can perhaps pray that the spline on the shaft is worn but deep inside I know it is the gear set. Time to hunt for a lightly used front diff.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by stashtrey

This is correct. Still rolling RWD while I find the time to have someone look at the input shaft to the differential. It is loose as shit and the source ofy journey from replacing both wheel bearings (myself) to changing diff fluid (2x..denial) and then to removing the front drive shaft. Once I did that the noise that was driving me insane went away. When I was under the car pulling the shaft out it was immediately obvious that the input shaft was the source of all the racket. Now I can perhaps pray that the spline on the shaft is worn but deep inside I know it is the gear set. Time to hunt for a lightly used front diff.

Ah, man, I do not want to hear this! What do you think toasted the front diff?

[Namor]

Stashtrey. Regarding the loose pinion shaft, I think there is a collapsable spacer to adjust the preload on the bearing. At least it was on my old Jeep. On that car I could adjust the loose shaft by carefully tighten the big nut at the end of the pinion shaft.
Just an idea.. And maybe worth to investigate further.

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Ah, man, I do not want to hear this! What do you think toasted the front diff?

Well.. the car ran strong as ever before pulling the shaft. So.. it is just my hunch after crossing off wheel bearings and fluid etc. There is rotational slack at the output shaft and the noise at 45+ mph sounded like light grinding...it would initially go away with throttle but after long driving on the highway it would eventually be present at all times. So I'm not positive the diff is the issue but it seems seems like more play than one would expect. The diff is not peaking although it looks like oil caked on it at both half shafts and under the output.

Here's a video (forgive my nausea inducing video handling...flat on my back with awkward position under the car!!).

335xi front differential slack:

Thank you to the post above as well. I can't find much online about this at all. I suppose I need to take it in as I'm stumped.

I also should note that the noise literally surfaced immediately after installing a set of used KW V3 coilovers and vorshlag camber plates. I read an old post from e36graduate where he went through the same symptoms and troubleshooting as me and it turned out to be a blown front KW V1 strut. My suspension feels tight and sturdy though so I just don't know. The coincidence is suspicious though.....

[critical05]

I could be wrong but what your seeing is just the backlash in the spiral bevel set, being that the play is just rotational.

If it was the bearings or the crush washer, there should be excessive endplay in the bearing set and you should be able to rock the flange up and down (or side to side).

[JC335xi]

Originally Posted by critical05

I could be wrong but what your seeing is just the backlash in the spiral bevel set, being that the play is just rotational.

If it was the bearings or the crush washer, there should be excessive endplay in the bearing set and you should be able to rock the flange up and down (or side to side).

Yeah, that is my impression as well.

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by critical05

I could be wrong but what your seeing is just the backlash in the spiral bevel set, being that the play is just rotational.

If it was the bearings or the crush washer, there should be excessive endplay in the bearing set and you should be able to rock the flange up and down (or side to side).

Well the noise is without a doubt directly related to the front drive shaft. The minute I pulled it....the noise that had been driving me insane for 3 months simply disappeared.

Any ideas of it is not excessive slop in the output?

[ajsalida]

Have you checked the diff fluid?

[stashtrey]

Yep. Changed it 2x in the last 30 days as I thought there was a leak. Put in as much as I drained out...

[ajsalida]

Could it be as simple as one of the u-joints in the shaft you removed?

[Sidewinderpb]

Now, if only this solved the issue of lowering the front further lol

[critical05]

What I would do, if you have the tools or can borrow one. Take a dial indicator and place the indicator on the hub flange (driveshaft mounting point). Push the hub in and zero out the indicator, now and take two pry bars 180 degrees apart and try pushing the hub out (not excessive force).

If it is a crush washer design, there should be zero endplay in the bearing, you could still measure .002" just from operator variation. From an heavy machinery industrial gearbox perspective, even at .005" on a tapered bearing wouldn't give you a problem.

[waldo2014]

out of curiosity, did the OP drive for a few months with the transfer case disconnected? Everything still fine? Reconnected for the winter?

[blown07]

Having a similar noise issue as the OP. Sudden extra road noise coming from the left front side. I changed the left front bearing but didn't help too much. I have changed the front diff fluid three times in the past four weeks...fluid seems to have a slight metalic look to it each time but still quite clear. The noise is not crazy but there. Started right after I did my DP's. Pulled the diff end of the drive shaft off today but couldn't really see/feel anything wrong.....similar to the video posted. Wondering if a new diff worked for OP?

[1QuikWS6]

yes i do the same for people that alpina flash bc auto trans < 6MT

MT are going the way of yabba-dabba-doo Fred Flintstone, so you might as well get used to it.

The new era quality AT shift faster, more consistently, and get better gas mileage than MT.

Most car mfg. don't give a rat's a$$ if a MT enhances the driving experience - they are simply trying to allow their cars to meet the ever tightening gov't mandates + whether you believe it or not - most people nowadays don't want anything to do with manual shifting for their DD.

Hold on to that MT you have now

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by stashtrey

Well.. the car ran strong as ever before pulling the shaft. So.. it is just my hunch after crossing off wheel bearings and fluid etc. There is rotational slack at the output shaft and the noise at 45+ mph sounded like light grinding...it would initially go away with throttle but after long driving on the highway it would eventually be present at all times. So I'm not positive the diff is the issue but it seems seems like more play than one would expect. The diff is not peaking although it looks like oil caked on it at both half shafts and under the output.

Here's a video (forgive my nausea inducing video handling...flat on my back with awkward position under the car!!).

335xi front differential slack:
http://<div class="youtube-playerCon.../iframe></div>

Thank you to the post above as well. I can't find much online about this at all. I suppose I need to take it in as I'm stumped.

I also should note that the noise literally surfaced immediately after installing a set of used KW V3 coilovers and vorshlag camber plates. I read an old post from e36graduate where he went through the same symptoms and troubleshooting as me and it turned out to be a blown front KW V1 strut. My suspension feels tight and sturdy though so I just don't know. The coincidence is suspicious though.....

I had the same issue as op and did the same thing disconnecting the front driveshaft and had some fun while rwd lol. Rotated that flange and got the same exact noise and also over 45mph had a bad grinding noise as well. Ended up getting a used diff and all was well afterwards. The gears in the old diff broke apart smh causing all the noise.

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by Julian2485

I had the same issue as op and did the same thing disconnecting the front driveshaft and had some fun while rwd lol. Rotated that flange and got the same exact noise and also over 45mph had a bad grinding noise as well. Ended up getting a used diff and all was well afterwards. The gears in the old diff broke apart smh causing all the noise.

I tried to put pics of toasted diff doesn't seem to be uploading for some Reason

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by Julian2485

I had the same issue as op and did the same thing disconnecting the front driveshaft and had some fun while rwd lol. Rotated that flange and got the same exact noise and also over 45mph had a bad grinding noise as well. Ended up getting a used diff and all was well afterwards. The gears in the old diff broke apart smh causing all the noise.

Just to be clear, your front diff issues were not a result of disconnecting the front driveshaft, rather you disconnected it because you were having front diff issues?

Any idea what caused the front diff to go out? Thx.

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Just to be clear, your front diff issues were not a result of disconnecting the front driveshaft, rather you disconnected it because you were having front diff issues?

Any idea what caused the front diff to go out? Thx.

Correct I disconnected the front ds to where the origin of the noise and found it came from front dif. Honestly I have no idea what may have caused the diff to go out I wish I knew. I m fbo though running Cobb stage 2+ I don't know if that contributed to it and I really don't launch my car in fear of the vtg motor going out again.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by Julian2485

Correct I disconnected the front ds to where the origin of the noise and found it came from front dif. Honestly I have no idea what may have caused the diff to go out I wish I knew. I m fbo though running Cobb stage 2+ I don't know if that contributed to it and I really don't launch my car in fear of the vtg motor going out again.

OK Thx. Weird that so many front diffs have gone out, most expected the transfer case to be the XI weak point but maybe not.

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

OK Thx. Weird that so many front diffs have gone out, most expected the transfer case to be the XI weak point but maybe not.

Yea I thought it was my transfer case that's why I pulled the front driveshaft to see exactly where the noise was coming from and once my diff started locking up on me I knew it was the front diff