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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Replacing E92 Windshield Reveal Molding



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      03-09-2017, 10:30 PM   #23
Tugabrokenb
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Never really thought about using a wooden pick to get the excess stuff off. Sweet touch I'll have to give it a try with something similar to the pick
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      05-24-2017, 01:16 PM   #24
edsonreds
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Details needed

Hi everyone. I am planning to do this DIY to my 2011 E92. Just a couple of questions to the guys that already have done it.

1. My molding has come off at the corners. It appears that the glue molding has run off and I have to corners of plastic looking like old stickers. The OEM molding has glue around the corners to prevent that from happening?

2. On the end of each modling there is a piece of plastic called "the support molding" if I change the molding, how will it stick to the old support? Is there any glue I mus apply? Or yoy suggest changing everything? The post only showed the molding replacement, not the support/base.

Regards,

Edson.
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      05-24-2017, 07:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edsonreds View Post
Hi everyone. I am planning to do this DIY to my 2011 E92. Just a couple of questions to the guys that already have done it.

1. My molding has come off at the corners. It appears that the glue molding has run off and I have to corners of plastic looking like old stickers. The OEM molding has glue around the corners to prevent that from happening?

2. On the end of each modling there is a piece of plastic called "the support molding" if I change the molding, how will it stick to the old support? Is there any glue I mus apply? Or yoy suggest changing everything? The post only showed the molding replacement, not the support/base.

Regards,

Edson.
I did this diy a few weeks ago for the first time.

1. I believe the driver side top corner has adhesive tape and indent that will keep it flat, the passenger side doesn't. It has the adhesive tape but not all the way to the very corner.

2. The "molding support" isn't held by adhesives where it connects to the windshield molding, there's no need to replace it unless it is badly bent out of shape. You'll need to pry it up a bit to get the windshield molding removed under it and when you reinstall, but it should come back flat to it's original shape.

The part that takes long is the removal of the old molding depending on how bad it is cracking. Goo Gone/WD-40 definitely helps to get the residue out.
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      05-25-2017, 10:28 AM   #26
edsonreds
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ahhllen thank you very much! I may buy some OEM bmw adhesive to make sure y cover the passenger side edge. In my case it seems that normal use has worn off the tape leaving an ugly piece of rubber on that end.

All the best.

Edson.
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      07-03-2017, 04:49 PM   #27
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I tried this a while ago and it's fair to say that I messed it up. Removed the old molding well and cleaned up the surfaces but the new molding did not fit; I could not press one of the corners all the way (maybe I am too week). I have ordered a new molding and this time I am going to do it outside around noon when it is hot so hopefully new molding will be more flexible. I am also going to use plenty of windex to lubricate the surface.

Any suggestions? Reading all DIYs and watching videos it seems to be an easy job, I just don't understand how I screwed up the first try and could not insert the corner. I am sure that I removed the pieces of old molding entirely.
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      01-20-2018, 08:25 PM   #28
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About to give this a shot... had my 335i for about a month now and the condition of my molding has disgusted me ever since taking delivery.

Here's the before condition... yes, that is caulking.
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      01-20-2018, 09:39 PM   #29
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And it's done.

Under that caulking I found some nasty scrape marks that looks like someone tried to clean up their caulk job... ugh. Now I gotta find a way to try and restore a little shine to that area.
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      01-31-2018, 02:56 PM   #30
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Thanks for the report, it will be necessary also to change because they put not in the center when they changed the windshield
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      06-06-2018, 03:41 PM   #31
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Sorry to bump this, but anyone have any shipping codes for getBMWparts? $31 molding but $30+ shipping seems a bit much. Poor grad student over here, haha.
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      06-22-2018, 10:17 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by recycledpaper View Post
Sorry to bump this, but anyone have any shipping codes for getBMWparts? $31 molding but $30+ shipping seems a bit much. Poor grad student over here, haha.
I believe the shipping is expensive because it's shipped in a very specific box to retain the shape of the molding, otherwise it will bend and warp during transport.
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      06-22-2018, 12:36 PM   #33
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I received free shipping when I ordered from ECSTuning.
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      07-25-2018, 08:42 PM   #34
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Does anyone know if there is an issue if the top corners of the molding stick up slightly?

My new molding - which came from a BMW dealer - didn't have double-sided tape on the corners, causing them to slightly stick up per their natural curvy state.

My concern is water might get under the molding, and have nowhere to go. I tried to see if there was a channel for any water - if water were to get under the molding - and could not determine with certainty either way.

I would figure that it's OK as water can presumably get through the roof rack "doors" in the roof trim but I'm not 100%...
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      07-29-2018, 03:37 PM   #35
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For anyone else curious about this, I finally got a chance to spray some water in the openings that I thought were unsafe for water to get into, and unsurprisingly, the water had no problem draining. Eventually all the water sprayed into these small openings drained at the bottom of the car.

TLDR -- don't worry if your windshield molding is not perfectly flush at the top corners, the water that gets under it will drain just fine.
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      08-13-2018, 06:31 PM   #36
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I have this part, just need to get around to installing it.
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      01-09-2019, 09:54 AM   #37
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I opted to have my molding replaced by a local windshield installer. After looking at my Bimmer he said the windshield would have to come out in order to replace the molding the and the glass could conceivably crack in the process. Seems sketchy so I left - any thoughts from this group?
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      07-19-2019, 08:55 AM   #38
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Such a pain this rubber. The rubber goes on around the glass when fitted . When they sit down the glass the glue does catch the rubber aswelll. That's why the oem 1st one installed looks perfect.
This means the proper way is when you glue in the screen get the rubber seal in.
When you actually remove just the rubber ..is very difficult if not impossible to get it as good as when they fit the glass.
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