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      07-09-2018, 04:56 AM   #1
connorfitz
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High flow turbo inlet question please help

So I just got my n54 335xi and I was wondering if eBay turbo inlets will be fine? I mean itís pretty much just silicone or should I get aluminum?

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=0&cspheader=1

Was thinking of getting these but I already have dci. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

I know eBay isnít the best way to go but sometimes they work out great. Got eBay headers for my e46 m3 and they were great
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      07-09-2018, 05:11 AM   #2
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These are MMP inlets. These are regarded as very good.
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      07-09-2018, 04:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connorfitz View Post
So I just got my n54 335xi and I was wondering if eBay turbo inlets will be fine? I mean it’s pretty much just silicone or should I get aluminum?

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...38;cspheader=1

Was thinking of getting these but I already have dci. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

I know eBay isn’t the best way to go but sometimes they work out great. Got eBay headers for my e46 m3 and they were great
MMP makes great inlets. I'd get 1.75". That's plenty big. The rear one will be a PITA. You will need two people to install it. There's a great DIY on YouTube.



He doesn't take the bracket off in the back by the fire wall, which holds the OEM inlet on the block. I did. You have to be creative to get it off the block by the fire wall, but it's doable with the right tools.

You will need new gaskets for your connection between the downpipes & the rest of your exhaust.

Burger Motor Sports makes a good set for a reasonable price. Make sure you use plenty of "nickel" based anti-seize on the new bolts and nuts, so the next time around you won't have a major headache getting them off.

Soaking them over night in Kroil Oil and then heating them up with a torch to really hot temps before using an air powered torque gun, would be my best suggestion.

Don't use a wrench or socket. They will just snap off.

If all else fails, drop the entire exhaust as low as you can go and cut them off with a Dremmel or Sawzall. That's what I had to do... I used a Diablo, carbon tipped metal blade and sawed down the middle of the two pipes, right into the gasket.

You will need to remove at least one down pipe to install the rear inlet. Two makes it a lot easier.

Good luck
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      07-10-2018, 03:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
MMP makes great inlets. I'd get 1.75". That's plenty big. The rear one will be a PITA. You will need two people to install it. There's a great DIY on YouTube.



He doesn't take the bracket off in the back by the fire wall, which holds the OEM inlet on the block. I did. You have to be creative to get it off the block by the fire wall, but it's doable with the right tools.

You will need new gaskets for your connection between the downpipes & the rest of your exhaust.

Burger Motor Sports makes a good set for a reasonable price. Make sure you use plenty of "nickel" based anti-seize on the new bolts and nuts, so the next time around you won't have a major headache getting them off.

Soaking them over night in Kroil Oil and then heating them up with a torch to really hot temps before using an air powered torque gun, would be my best suggestion.

Don't use a wrench or socket. They will just snap off.

If all else fails, drop the entire exhaust as low as you can go and cut them off with a Dremmel or Sawzall. That's what I had to do... I used a Diablo, carbon tipped metal blade and sawed down the middle of the two pipes, right into the gasket.

You will need to remove at least one down pipe to install the rear inlet. Two makes it a lot easier.

Good luck
Why not do the 2" it will be more flow then the 1.75" and can be reused if he upgrades turbos in the future?
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      07-10-2018, 05:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gencheezzy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
MMP makes great inlets. I'd get 1.75". That's plenty big. The rear one will be a PITA. You will need two people to install it. There's a great DIY on YouTube.



He doesn't take the bracket off in the back by the fire wall, which holds the OEM inlet on the block. I did. You have to be creative to get it off the block by the fire wall, but it's doable with the right tools.

You will need new gaskets for your connection between the downpipes & the rest of your exhaust.

Burger Motor Sports makes a good set for a reasonable price. Make sure you use plenty of "nickel" based anti-seize on the new bolts and nuts, so the next time around you won't have a major headache getting them off.

Soaking them over night in Kroil Oil and then heating them up with a torch to really hot temps before using an air powered torque gun, would be my best suggestion.

Don't use a wrench or socket. They will just snap off.

If all else fails, drop the entire exhaust as low as you can go and cut them off with a Dremmel or Sawzall. That's what I had to do... I used a Diablo, carbon tipped metal blade and sawed down the middle of the two pipes, right into the gasket.

You will need to remove at least one down pipe to install the rear inlet. Two makes it a lot easier.

Good luck
Why not do the 2" it will be more flow then the 1.75" and can be reused if he upgrades turbos in the future?
You can use 1.75" on upgraded turbos. This info is per Rob Beck. He recommends 1.75" inlets for his RB1's.

2" inlets will make it really, really tight in both the front & back. Trust me, when I say this. I have MMP 1.75" inlets. It's really tight in the front next to the pulleys & fan. In the back, the 1.75" were sort of a major b@tch to feed through back there to the rear turbo. I honestly don't know how one would put a 2" pipe through that opening. Remember, I took off the rear bracket, which holds the stock inlet to the block. So, I had the extra clearance as a result of taking off that bracket, and I still feel a 2" pipe would be a nightmare to fit back there. Obviously people install 2" inlets or they wouldn't exist. I'm just saying I wouldn't create an install nightmare for yourself if it's not necessary.

I have MMP 2" Outlets too. So, I understand the diameter of a 2" vs 1.75"

You can do what you want. I just staying from my perspective, as one who has installed them etc. is all.
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      07-10-2018, 05:54 PM   #6
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Something to consider. You can save $$ if you order this kit with outlets. You'd save on shipping & maybe a little overall. Order it directly from MMP or choose a vendor like extreme powerhouse

https://www.x-ph.com

There is a trick to installing the 2" outlets, if front portion of the outlet wants to sit under the exhaust manifold after install. I can let you in on what I did.
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      07-10-2018, 07:49 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info guys I'm probably going to go with vrsf or mmp silicone inlets at 1.75"
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      07-16-2018, 10:19 PM   #8
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1.75" MMP inlet in the Front

Quote:
Originally Posted by connorfitz View Post
Thanks for the info guys I'm probably going to go with vrsf or mmp silicone inlets at 1.75"
Here is a couple shots of my engine with the MMP inlets in the front. Note how tight it is. These are 1.75" inlets.
Attached Images
  
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      07-17-2018, 03:18 PM   #9
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I just installed VRSF Silicon Relocated inlets. Very happy with them
__________________
'07 335i e92 (Kinda running lol) -- RB Turbos - JB4 G5 - MHD Tune - VRSF Catless DP - VRSF Relocated Inlets - Devilsown/BMS Methanol Injection
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      07-18-2018, 12:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Here is a couple shots of my engine with the MMP inlets in the front. Note how tight it is. These are 1.75" inlets.

Thanks for the pics. for sure going to get 1.75 also how did/long the instillation go?
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      07-18-2018, 01:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connorfitz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Here is a couple shots of my engine with the MMP inlets in the front. Note how tight it is. These are 1.75" inlets.

Thanks for the pics. for sure going to get 1.75 also how did/long the instillation go?
It's a 2 person job in my opinion. Maybe 2-3 hours

Use silicone grease on the rear inlet. This way the grease doesn't deteriorate the inlet over time.

Buy a screw driver bit ratchet. Get a t-30 bit & cut it in 1/2. It will still work & give you clearance to take the bracket off the block that holds the OEM inlet in place.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8INw&adurl=

Buy a set of turbo seals & exhaust flange gaskets.

BMS makes pretty good ones

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-p...307553601~elr/

http://www.burgertuning.com/n54_n55_...e_gaskets.html

Buy a tube of nickel based anti-seize & put it on all exhaust bolts & nuts. Consider buying grade 8 bolts & nuts for the exhaust / downpipe flange.

Buy a mini hack saw with 10" blades

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-202525764-_-N

Be ready to cut off the existing exhaust bolts that connect the exhaust to the cats. A sawzall with a Diablo metal, carbide tipped blade is gold, but you have to drop the exhaust down a bit, in order to get room to work. A Dremmel also does a good job of cutting the bolts, but you will need about 12 cutting wheels on hand.

Cut in between the flanges

Have a torch & Kroil Oil on hand.

Have some emery cloth on hand.

Use this video as a reference -



MMP probably probably makes the best bang for your buck silicone inlets.

Be careful on the rear inlet. The block as a lot of sharp corner back there, and they can rip the inlet.
Silicone grease is a must. You might want to file back the rough corners.

Have some brake cleaner on hand. Clean up any oil, grease, crap you find. You will need it to clean the in turbo inlets before you mount the silicone inlet and secure it with a banjo style clamp. I used SS ones from HD that had 8mm bolts.... 8mm should sound very familiar to you.
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      07-18-2018, 02:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
It's a 2 person job in my opinion. Maybe 2-3 hours

Use silicone grease on the rear inlet. This way the grease doesn't deteriorate the inlet over time.

Buy a screw driver bit ratchet. Get a t-30 bit & cut it in 1/2. It will still work & give you clearance to take the bracket off the block that holds the OEM inlet in place.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8INw&adurl=

Buy a set of turbo seals & exhaust flange gaskets.

BMS makes pretty good ones

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-p...307553601~elr/

http://www.burgertuning.com/n54_n55_...e_gaskets.html

Buy a tube of nickel based anti-seize & put it on all exhaust bolts & nuts. Consider buying grade 8 bolts & nuts for the exhaust / downpipe flange.

Buy a mini hack saw with 10" blades

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-202525764-_-N

Be ready to cut off the existing exhaust bolts that connect the exhaust to the cats. A sawzall with a Diablo metal, carbide tipped blade is gold, but you have to drop the exhaust down a bit, in order to get room to work. A Dremmel also does a good job of cutting the bolts, but you will need about 12 cutting wheels on hand.

Cut in between the flanges

Have a torch & Kroil Oil on hand.

Have some emery cloth on hand.

Use this video as a reference -



MMP probably probably makes the best bang for your buck silicone inlets.

Be careful on the rear inlet. The block as a lot of sharp corner back there, and they can rip the inlet.
Silicone grease is a must. You might want to file back the rough corners.

Have some brake cleaner on hand. Clean up any oil, grease, crap you find. You will need it to clean the in turbo inlets before you mount the silicone inlet and secure it with a banjo style clamp. I used SS ones from HD that had 8mm bolts.... 8mm should sound very familiar to you.
Thanks for all the info! wow idk if im ready to take this on yet im pretty new to installing aftermarket parts coming from a e46 m3 there wasnt much to add and everything was pretty easy
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      07-18-2018, 03:19 PM   #13
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I just installed some MMP inlets (as well with new turbos and outlets)

I had to trim the front inlet to fit with my Dinan intake (stock airbox the same) as it was too long

I also ran 90* adapter and hoses for the BPV's as the angle coming out is wrong.

Some heat sleeves I felt were a good idea around the front and back because of how tight it was and rubbing.

Absolutely cut down a T30 torx bit and vicegrips for the rear inlet torx. Both bother screwing around with anything else.

Its doable just take your time. Lots of swearing from me. These cars are much tighter than I'm used to for engine bays.
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      07-18-2018, 07:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvan View Post
I just installed some MMP inlets (as well with new turbos and outlets)

I had to trim the front inlet to fit with my Dinan intake (stock airbox the same) as it was too long

I also ran 90* adapter and hoses for the BPV's as the angle coming out is wrong.

Some heat sleeves I felt were a good idea around the front and back because of how tight it was and rubbing.

Absolutely cut down a T30 torx bit and vicegrips for the rear inlet torx. Both bother screwing around with anything else.

Its doable just take your time. Lots of swearing from me. These cars are much tighter than I'm used to for engine bays.
Where did you get the 90 degree adapter ?

I would have loved to have a 45 degree adapter for the front turbo when I did the 2" MMP Silicone Outlets.
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      07-19-2018, 09:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Where did you get the 90 degree adapter ?

I would have loved to have a 45 degree adapter for the front turbo when I did the 2" MMP Silicone Outlets.
I went to a local fluid/hose place. 1" to 1" 90* adapter. It was nice that it was a small bend and pretty smooth. $1.08 CAD each or something so for you guys it should be pennies. I also got a plastic version, just in case it wanted to rub on something nearby when the engine moves.

BTW I actually drove it harder today. Inlets were absolutely worth the pain in the ass work.
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