[BM3Rrrr]

Is there a kit available for RHD N54's out there?
I can only find one made by LeadFoot Racing in the UK and they want 6k GBP for it

There must be a cheaper alternative out there

Edit: Just saw Houzworkz based in NSW makes a kit, not cheap though @ 15k AUD, but I guess if you want stealth you gotta pay

[Brule]

Lead foot racings price of £5999 or $10,977 includes a drive in drive out fitting.

It must be at least $2000 cheaper for kit only.

I know theres one guy in Australia running ine for the last 6 months or so.

Worth looking at the speedtech kit in the usa. It looks like the closest fitting low mount kit. Making sure the wastegate fits will be the critical point. Downpipe would be easy.

Added photo of someones lead foot racing setup from Australia. This one was on 1 addicts. So there must be 2 in Australia.

Other two photos are Speedtech.

[BM3Rrrr]

Was looking at Speedtech as well, Me and a mate are thinking we might have a go using that kit and customizing to make it work for RHD

[Brule]

I was just trying to place the steering shaft in cad to see where the dump pipe and wastegate end up.

[Brule]

Just looking at photos online is difficult to get an exact position of the steering shaft.
Someone will have to buy the kit to find out where everything fits.

[BM3Rrrr]

I was reading on another forum with regards to the Houzworkz kit and they looked at the turbo position of Leadfoots and decided to place their turbo towards the back of the engine. Reason was they felt it Leadfoots was too close to critical plastic parts and hoses you can see from photos online.

I agree with that in a sense but if people are running these kits currently they must be ok.

Either way both kits are extremely expensive and the option of buying a Speedtech and modify to make it work may be worth the time.

[135i2]

I have spent plenty of time and money developing the Motiv based kit and a second, big free flowing kit that is doing final test and tune (only for high HP crazies). A high performing, reliable kit for Australian conditions is challenging to say the least. Especially if you want to run it hard on the street at more than just 25psi.

Don't waste your time with the speedtech kit, I believe it won't fit. Ideally you need a V-band off the manifold. The wastegate will run right into the steering shaft being top mounted if you want to plumb back. Turbo is totally in the wrong spot and the only chance is to try a less than adequate leadfoot position with compromises for big power. Starting point to have a go is over 9k plus landed (GST, Duty, Exchange Rate, Shipping).
The Speedtech photo above is LHD, not RHD.

If you want horsepower you need lots of room for a big dump and turbo inlet.
You also need lots of money for fabrication and add on parts unless you want to do a Brule or Socket. :-)

If you want moderate power or cheap don't waste your time. Just do twins as they will romp away from most STs on Aussie streets. And you can afford to replace them many times over for what your ST effort will really cost you in the end. There are plenty of costs that many on these forums and browsers don't factor in when building single turbo.

Walton Racing top mount (some compromises there too) and the Simply Tuning manifold are available for DIY or just buy Brule's manifold if DIY is your choice as a starting point.

BTW the Speedtech engine mount wont fit either.

The Leadfoot will be 14k plus landed (GST, Duty, Exchange Rate, Shipping). There is one Canberran running it to my knowledge.
A 3584RS at 20psi is a waste, laggy as hell, but at least its safe if not slow compared to GCs, Pures etc.

Before you spend any money decide on your horsepower levels and goals for you car.

There is a reason my kit is expensive if you want the full road legal version. Will also offer a less frills version (for off-road purposes).
I have been running around with my kits for 2 years and 20,000km or more, flogging them in 45 degree heat at full beans .

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by 135i2

I have spent plenty of time and money developing the Motiv based kit and a second, big free flowing kit that is doing final test and tune (only for high HP crazies). A high performing, reliable kit for Australian conditions is challenging to say the least. Especially if you want to run it hard on the street at more than just 25psi.

Don't waste your time with the speedtech kit, I believe it won't fit. Ideally you need a V-band off the manifold. The wastegate will run right into the steering shaft being top mounted if you want to plumb back. Turbo is totally in the wrong spot and the only chance is to try a less than adequate leadfoot position with compromises for big power. Starting point to have a go is over 9k plus landed (GST, Duty, Exchange Rate, Shipping).
The Speedtech photo above is LHD, not RHD.

If you want horsepower you need lots of room for a big dump and turbo inlet.
You also need lots of money for fabrication and add on parts unless you want to do a Brule or Socket. :-)

If you want moderate power or cheap don't waste your time. Just do twins as they will romp away from most STs on Aussie streets. And you can afford to replace them many times over for what your ST effort will really cost you in the end. There are plenty of costs that many on these forums and browsers don't factor in when building single turbo.

Walton Racing top mount (some compromises there too) and the Simply Tuning manifold are available for DIY or just buy Brule's manifold if DIY is your choice as a starting point.

BTW the Speedtech engine mount wont fit either.

The Leadfoot will be 14k plus landed (GST, Duty, Exchange Rate, Shipping). There is one Canberran running it to my knowledge.
A 3584RS at 20psi is a waste, laggy as hell, but at least its safe if not slow compared to GCs, Pures etc.

Before you spend any money decide on your horsepower levels and goals for you car.

There is a reason my kit is expensive if you want the full road legal version. Will also offer a less frills version (for off-road purposes).
I have been running around with my kits for 2 years and 20,000km or more, flogging them in 45 degree heat at full beans .

Thanks for the info mate, Its a friend of mine that is looking to do the ST bottom mount as his stock twins are on the way out.

His reason for not doing a top mount (which I suggested) is that he wants the stealth look. I also mentioned to him upgraded twins (VTT's, Pure's etc) but from his research they don't seem to be all that reliable. I guess Socket could chime in on that one.

He's pretty keen to do some fabbing of his own to try to make something fit for cheap, I don't really agree with this the more research I do.

[135i2]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

Thanks for the info mate, Its a friend of mine that is looking to do the ST bottom mount as his stock twins are on the way out.

His reason for not doing a top mount (which I suggested) is that he wants the stealth look. I also mentioned to him upgraded twins (VTT's, Pure's etc) but from his research they don't seem to be all that reliable. I guess Socket could chime in on that one.

He's pretty keen to do some fabbing of his own to try to make something fit for cheap, I don't really agree with this the more research I do.

I was a twin turbo hater for good reason which is why I went ST. But the main players are more accountable than ever and their products are cheaper than ever for those of us who swapped out to upgraded twins in the beginning of the platform. The first RB offering was the only choice.

If your mate doesn't want more than 300rwkw rebuild the stockers locally, save and enjoy the myriad of other enhancing mods.

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by 135i2

I was a twin turbo hater for good reason which is why I went ST. But the main players are more accountable than ever and their products are cheaper than ever for those of us who swapped out to upgraded twins in the beginning of the platform. The first RB offering was the only choice.

If your mate doesn't want more than 300rwkw rebuild the stockers locally, save and enjoy the myriad of other enhancing mods.

I'm certain he wants more then 300rwkw

[135i2]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

I'm certain he wants more then 300rwkw

$$$

[Socket]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

Thanks for the info mate, Its a friend of mine that is looking to do the ST bottom mount as his stock twins are on the way out.

His reason for not doing a top mount (which I suggested) is that he wants the stealth look. I also mentioned to him upgraded twins (VTT's, Pure's etc) but from his research they don't seem to be all that reliable. I guess Socket could chime in on that one.

He's pretty keen to do some fabbing of his own to try to make something fit for cheap, I don't really agree with this the more research I do.

Hey guys
Really interesting read
I’m a ST convert obviously and would love to have bottom mount but for all the reasons stated above it is a factor x 5 more difficult then a top mount ST and that was hard enough btw. We did my ST three times until we got it right. Trashing and making up custom pipes etc each time. Actually the job is still not done with Vince working on a poor sealing waste gate as we speak. My 7670 is putting out about 308 kw on 98 pump at 18 or so psi (with a major waste gate leak) so after all the spend we are not getting crazy numbers, but that was never the aim. Car drives great has plenty of power and zero lag. Fixing the WG pushing the boost up to 20+ and running PI and 100% E85 should get some more power out of this set up. All that said it’s an expense route. At least $10-12K. Anyone who says they can do it for $6K is talking rubbish. There is lots involved including relocating coolant tanks, rerouting hoses, wiring, heat shielding etc. the real cost is in all the little stuff that people don’t think of... so would I do it again? Probably not. In the real world of driving around town the gains are not that massive. If you are building a drag car well that’s a different matter but not all of us are Brule lol. Tbh for a road car the best b4b is stockies. Vince (vtl) runs stock twins always has so that should tell you something. If you really want to chase big numbers prepare to pay to play, not only on the turbo kit but on drivetrain, suspension, rubber and all the other upgrades you need. Having heaps of power is pointless if you can’t put it down or the car handles like shit and is just downright dangerous. Hope this helps. Keen to get your thoughts too Brule

[Socket]

Oh if you want to swing by and check out my set up and walk you through what’s involved 👍

[Brule]

$8300 is what mine cost and I still need some sort of boost control and more heat shielding. No labour cost included as I diy.

I actually spent more but thats cause I wasnt sure what parts or certain sizes would work or fit etc.

I made up a jig so making a manifold is easy but theres no clearance anywhere so everything is still made in situ and time consuming.

Now I have a spreadsheet of parts, sizes and exact prices.

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by Brule

$8300 is what mine cost and I still need some sort of boost control and more heat shielding. No labour cost included as I diy.

I actually spent more but thats cause I wasnt sure what parts or certain sizes would work or fit etc.

I made up a jig so making a manifold is easy but theres no clearance anywhere so everything is still made in situ and time consuming.

Now I have a spreadsheet of parts, sizes and exact prices.

Do you have photos of your manifold?

[Brule]

Photos:

I did not make the manifold I bought it off simply tuning and modified it to fit wastegate off the manifold rather than the turbo.

This was my first time tig welding and making a turbo kit.

[BM3Rrrr]

Looks pretty good mate!

[jzx_andy]

High mount is the only way to go if you want to try and keep a single turbo build on a budget (if you can even call it that)! If you want to keep things stealth, go for upgraded twins IMO.

Marty on SS was mentioning development of a RHD lowmount kit (I believe its based on the Motiv kit), but it looks like that will be a baller option, given what he's done with the plazmaman intake manifold, and the apparently huge amount of development and revision that has gone into it.

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by jzx_andy

High mount is the only way to go if you want to try and keep a single turbo build on a budget (if you can even call it that)! If you want to keep things stealth, go for upgraded twins IMO.

Marty on SS was mentioning development of a RHD lowmount kit (I believe its based on the Motiv kit), but it looks like that will be a baller option, given what he's done with the plazmaman intake manifold, and the apparently huge amount of development and revision that has gone into it.

Yep I've seen that kit and its not cheap by any means (15k USD). Personally I don't think the average N54 owner would spend that much on a turbo kit. In hindsight I can appreciate all the work that was done to put it together though, by no means would it have been an easy accomplishment.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

Looks pretty good mate!

Brule has one for sale u know

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1616755

[135i2]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

Yep I've seen that kit and its not cheap by any means (15k USD). Personally I don't think the average N54 owner would spend that much on a turbo kit. In hindsight I can appreciate all the work that was done to put it together though, by no means would it have been an easy accomplishment.

Yes. That is one of the two kits I have developed in conjunction with JD75 and Marty's help. The Houzworkz kit detailed on SS, BB and 1addicts is circa 500+rwkw on stock motor and the other is for those chasing 600+.

[101Duck]

Originally Posted by 135i2

Yes. That is one of the two kits I have developed in conjunction with JD75 and Marty's help. The Houzworkz kit detailed on SS, BB and 1addicts is circa 500+rwkw on stock motor and the other is for those chasing 600+.

who is making 500rwkw+ on a stock motor?