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      08-20-2019, 02:09 PM   #155
bluewater328
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Thanks to OP and those who updated -- this helped. I have a Bentley manual but the visuals on here helped to know what to look for a bit. Wish I had taken a few more of my own to help out as well.

Things to also consider: The state of the lock when you plug in the wire harness back to the new actuator will affect how it reacts. I was doing testing without it plugged in and plugged it in arbitrarily. Seems it was unlocked when others were so I was getting a rapid three locking action from the actuator. Also, if at first it seems its not working, try and throw the key in the ignition and then connect the wire harness. Worked for me.

Having the window only 4" up (from lower sill) aligned the bottom hole for me and I pushed a screwdriver in to release the glass from the regulator holder. You can do this one at a time; there is no way for the glass to fall and break if you do it properly since it will fall into the holder again. If you're nervous about the metal screwdriver potentially touching the glass or you're slighting higher than 4" (so you have to push up to get to the hole in the glass through the regulator bar oval) then get some fabric tape and put it around it. You will need something solid though, so it's not like you could substitute a pencil or anything -- but maybe a strong pen...dunno.

Some people reported success in having the window up. I've seen this done, and they are probably right -- as long as the regulator bar near the lock can be unscrewed and then pushed back to make enough clearance for the regulator to come out, you're good. Getting the new regulator back in will be surprisingly easier than taking it out. I have a 2011 E90 328i and I had a hard foam block that was impossible to get out in the bottom corner under the regulator -- you just have to work around it.

After removing it from the handle, keep the key tumbler out of the equation till you see the actuator functioning correctly. Then use your key and turn it to make sure it operates. When you've verified that it turns (you may have to pull part of the post) then its ready to go back in. Remember, AFTER you've verified that the actuator is functioning. It helps to eliminate issues (though technically it should never be an issue). It pushes right back into place if you've screwed the actuator in correctly.

Pre-tap your holes your new actuator torx screw holes. Just take one of the three Torx screws that you took off for the old actuator and use it to tap the holes on new actuator BEFORE you put it back in. It just makes it easier so you're not trying to maneuver the actuator and hold it firm while you tap in the door. Also means you can hand thread one or two to position slowly and surely.

Oh and to confirm: yes, the replacement door lock is about twice as quiet as the original actuator. You'll question if you have everything right because it doesn't have that familiar "thump!" but rather a quiet up and down.

Last edited by bluewater328; 08-21-2019 at 02:50 PM..
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      09-09-2019, 10:21 PM   #156
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cut it out

2007 335i driver door lock closed the night before kid was taking it back to school. Tried both inner and outer levers on the actuator with no luck.

From the opening where the electrical connection is showing through the inside of the door went at it with a metal cutting blade on an oscillating tool. Kept cutting into the guts of it until the housing of the actuator fell away. Then fiddled with the lock mechanism until the lock released.

still not quite sure what went wrong inside the actuator, but it seemed like the plastic parts in the lock weren't tripping things the way they should when i moved them.

Lock mechanism is first, then the cut up housing.
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      09-09-2019, 10:26 PM   #157
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You will still have to do all the other parts of the process to disconnect the key lock, wiring and mechanicals inside the door. we had to unbolt the window glass regulator to get enough space to get the actuator back in.
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      09-18-2019, 04:24 PM   #158
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Thanks everyone. My passenger actuator had a broken white plastic cam. I could see the worm screw spinning against this to try to unlock the door and failing. After much poking with a screwdriver, I finally opened the door.

To unclip the window, I used both hands and a screwdriver to pry on the clip, being careful not to grind on the glass. My assistant then pulled up on the glass.

I'd rate this 2 spanners out of 5, 1 if the door can be opened first!
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      11-02-2019, 06:11 PM   #159
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Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
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      12-17-2019, 02:13 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
Go back in and redo your work. Yes, it's a PITA.
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      12-17-2019, 02:17 PM   #161
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Replaced the driver side front door actuator on my 06 (E90) 325i.

Followed most of the instructions, but did not disconnect the batter nor remove the window. I did remove the nuts on the support for the window for extra room.

I also used a dremel on the lower right opening and expanded it approximately 1/4" - which gave me enough room to slide in/out the actuator with relative ease.

I did have to redo the process as I did not securely clip in the the pull wire that connects to the back of the actuator. Fortunately I knew the process and no new swear words were used as the old standbys worked well.
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      12-17-2019, 04:19 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenohawk69 View Post
Replaced the driver side front door actuator on my 06 (E90) 325i.

Followed most of the instructions, but did not disconnect the batter nor remove the window. I did remove the nuts on the support for the window for extra room.

I also used a dremel on the lower right opening and expanded it approximately 1/4" - which gave me enough room to slide in/out the actuator with relative ease.

I did have to redo the process as I did not securely clip in the the pull wire that connects to the back of the actuator. Fortunately I knew the process and no new swear words were used as the old standbys worked well.
Make sure you plug in the molex to the actuator when all door locks are in the same state (all closed or all open). Sometimes the system gets confused if they aren't. See my post above.

Last edited by bluewater328; 12-17-2019 at 04:26 PM..
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      12-31-2019, 02:48 AM   #163
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My passenger side door has been stuck closed for months. I followed this thread to open up the panel while the door remained closed. After the foam was removed (followed by an hour of hopelessness), I was able to pop open the door by turning clockwise the orange gear behind the lock button attachment. I used a flat-head screwdriver to turn the gear with a little bit of force, and after about a 1/8 to 1/4 cycle, the lock attachment followed and shifted up. Once it shifted up and stayed up, I went out and pulled the the outside door handle to open the door.
Hope this helps. Time for me to order the actuator and complete the rest of the work.
Big thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread.

Last edited by idozone; 01-02-2020 at 08:58 PM..
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      05-02-2020, 03:22 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same problem. Installed the new actuator and lock will still not go down, only up.
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      05-02-2020, 07:44 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebringsc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same problem. Installed the new actuator and lock will still not go down, only up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebringsc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same problem. Installed the new actuator and lock will still not go down, only up.
Hi. If u take a look at this post by cisfinmark:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=10789958

Think we need to clear out some codes. I haven't had a chance to do this yet.
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      05-04-2020, 01:58 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebringsc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same problem. Installed the new actuator and lock will still not go down, only up.
you probably just need to cycle the lock/unlock cycle. Ie you're on the opposite sequence. Like I said to someone else: try unplugging the molex and press the lock/unlock button once. Then try plugging back in and seeing if it's in sequence. You might have to take negative off battery in between.
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      05-05-2020, 07:37 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
you probably just need to cycle the lock/unlock cycle. Ie you're on the opposite sequence. Like I said to someone else: try unplugging the molex and press the lock/unlock button once. Then try plugging back in and seeing if it's in sequence. You might have to take negative off battery in between.
So I replaced every fuse in my fusebox last night and voila, now it works. No idea which fuse was the culprit as they all visually looked fine but clearly something was wrong.

Now it works as it should. Makes me wonder if I even needed to spend the time/money replacing the actuator in the fist place. I guess some things we'll never know .

If this quarantine has done something for me, its' given me the time to fix all the little things on my car that have been driving me nuts for 5 years. Now if only I could sell it and upgrade
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      05-09-2020, 09:16 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebringsc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Hi. I replaced the driver's side front door actuator but my lock only works when unlocking. It wont lock or pin doesn't slide down automatically. Checked all fuses and they are good. Not sure what else I can do. Has anyone experienced the samething and can shed sone light as to what else I can try? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same problem. Installed the new actuator and lock will still not go down, only up.
you probably just need to cycle the lock/unlock cycle. Ie you're on the opposite sequence. Like I said to someone else: try unplugging the molex and press the lock/unlock button once. Then try plugging back in and seeing if it's in sequence. You might have to take negative off battery in between.
Finally had a chance to try the molex/battery solution but no luck. Will try error code clearing next
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      05-11-2020, 02:53 PM   #169
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Finally had a chance to try the molex/battery solution but no luck. Will try error code clearing next
Sorry man. I had an issue with it being off-cue as well and that fixed it for me.
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      07-31-2020, 01:29 AM   #170
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I replaced the door lock actuator for the front passenger side door. I noticed when I shut that door, there's no "thud" (BMW door noise when shutting doors noise as the other 3 doors make. Is that normal? I replaced it with OEM BMW part. Everything is sitting flush

Last edited by mosaud98; 07-31-2020 at 03:00 AM..
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      09-19-2021, 05:15 PM   #171
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thanks!

September 2021 and this post just saved my ass. Perfect install following these instructions. Thank you!
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      10-29-2021, 01:33 PM   #172
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Got my driver's side actuator replaced this afternoon, thanks to the DIY masters on this one. Man, what a project. Fairly simple, just a few little PITA things. Hardest part was getting the damn electrical wire clips out of the actuator housing I followed some of the other posters and left the window completely up. Unbolted the window track bar and bent it out of the way to barely get enough space for the actuator to come out. The non-threaded holes really threw me for a loop, but I used one of the bolts to tap it out before installing.

Now that I've got everything back together, the only big difference is that I can't manually push down the door lock knob when the door is open. Is that a safety of some sort so I don't lock myself out?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mosaud98 View Post
I replaced the door lock actuator for the front passenger side door. I noticed when I shut that door, there's no "thud" (BMW door noise when shutting doors noise as the other 3 doors make. Is that normal? I replaced it with OEM BMW part. Everything is sitting flush
Same here on the driver's door. I have to close the door a bit harder to get it to close all the way and the loud thud is gone.
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      05-18-2022, 09:36 AM   #173
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Finally had a chance to try the molex/battery solution but no luck. Will try error code clearing next
Did clearing codes help or some other solution?
I have same issue, and I'm only left to try clearing codes.
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      05-18-2022, 09:44 AM   #174
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Finally had a chance to try the molex/battery solution but no luck. Will try error code clearing next
Did clearing codes help or some other solution?
I have same issue, and I'm only left to try clearing codes.
Nope. Cleared codes and nothing. Still doesn't lock with fob nor door lock button on center of dash. Have to close door and lock manually from passenger side unfortunately.
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      05-19-2022, 07:44 AM   #175
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Nope. Cleared codes and nothing. Still doesn't lock with fob nor door lock button on center of dash. Have to close door and lock manually from passenger side unfortunately.
Unhook molex, and at least you will get rest of doors working.

Final results from my research is that replacement actuator is no good (CARPOL). Should have go with original part in first place...
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      05-19-2022, 10:31 AM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
Nope. Cleared codes and nothing. Still doesn't lock with fob nor door lock button on center of dash. Have to close door and lock manually from passenger side unfortunately.
Unhook molex, and at least you will get rest of doors working.

Final results from my research is that replacement actuator is no good (CARPOL). Should have go with original part in first place...
All the other door locks work fine. Just having issues with driver door
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