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      02-01-2016, 11:02 PM   #1
WreckerX5d
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No start but turns over

So my car got stuck just now, was about to leave and it won't start. It cranks over yet no fuel gets to the engine. It was running completely fine before that. What could cause this? I did have an undercarriage wash earlier but that's the only change. Hopefully it drys out tomorrow and will start back up, or at least the ECU resets and sleeps.

My luck so far this year has been damn shitty (other than Bohl replacing my DPF and ECU).
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      02-02-2016, 05:55 AM   #2
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That is strange. Whitbread had the same problem a couple of months ago. We read the fuel pressure with Ediabas and there was nothing. We then swapped the pressure regulator valve on the pump itself with mine, still no start. After swapping back we packed in for the night. After a little while Matt tried a last time before leaving the shop and she started right up as if nothing ever happened. We never found root cause.
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      02-02-2016, 06:31 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrecker335d
So my car got stuck just now, was about to leave and it won't start. It cranks over yet no fuel gets to the engine. It was running completely fine before that. What could cause this? I did have an undercarriage wash earlier but that's the only change. Hopefully it drys out tomorrow and will start back up, or at least the ECU resets and sleeps.

My luck so far this year has been damn shitty (other than Bohl replacing my DPF and ECU).
Try pulling the quick connect fuel fitting from driverside down low. Put it in a bottle or something of the sort and have someone hit the start button, to key on, and then try cranking..check and see if you've got fuel spraying out of that line
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      02-02-2016, 07:43 AM   #4
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IGNORE THIS IF YOU HADN'T MESSED WITH FUEL FILTER LATELY:

Did anyone mess with connection from lifting pump to fuel pump module? When trying to power my pump directly, I FUBAR'd the contacts in the connector and then car wouldn't start. Changed contacts and it was like nothing bad had ever happened? I recall Whitbread did the direct power to pump method with an ATV battery but didn't know if he powered directly to pump's pins or through the connector. Before changing the contact pins, the fit between connector and module was loosey goosey. After pin change, connection felt pretty solid.

Heather wants you to show that the lifting pump is providing flow to inlet of filter.

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      02-02-2016, 08:33 AM   #5
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I'm actually referring to the quick connect fitting after the fuel filter before the hpfp, it's possible to reach with a car in a parking lot standing up top
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      02-02-2016, 09:33 AM   #6
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Sorry about you situation. If you can, pull your rear seat and verify you have power to you fuel pump and verify its pumping. If not, its most likely the relay, which you can make a jumper wire for. Or maybe the fuel pump.

I recently did preventative fuel pump swaps on both my 335d and my 35D and to my surprise, the 35D had been drawing too much amperage causing the 12v positive wire to melt and had melted the the plastic housing on the pump. It was a matter of time before it left me stranded. So, pop the seat and and remove the 4-10mm nuts on the passenger side access cover. You'll see the fuel pump and wiring there. You should be able to determine if the pump is pumping and if you have power to the pump.

I have my old fuel pump I can send you if you need to try it.
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      02-02-2016, 09:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335dsleeper View Post
Sorry about you situation. If you can, pull your rear seat and verify you have power to you fuel pump and verify its pumping. If not, its most likely the relay, which you can make a jumper wire for. Or maybe the fuel pump.

I recently did preventative fuel pump swaps on both my 335d and my 35D and to my surprise, the 35D had been drawing too much amperage causing the 12v positive wire to melt and had melted the the plastic housing on the pump. It was a matter of time before it left me stranded. So, pop the seat and and remove the 4-10mm nuts on the passenger side access cover. You'll see the fuel pump and wiring there. You should be able to determine if the pump is pumping and if you have power to the pump.

I have my old fuel pump I can send you if you need to try it.
Wow. Thanks for posting this. Should be helpful to others as our vehicles age. Weird stuff like this can be a pain in the arse to debug...
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      02-02-2016, 01:01 PM   #8
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll look into this today before work (car is currently stuck there lol).
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      02-02-2016, 01:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Wow. Thanks for posting this. Should be helpful to others as our vehicles age. Weird stuff like this can be a pain in the arse to debug...
No problem.
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      02-02-2016, 06:19 PM   #10
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Fuel pump was not the problem in Whitbread 's case. We were able to activate it with Ediabas and could hear the fuel flowing, but nothing after the HPFP. So our thought was that it is either the bypass valve on the HPFP or the regulator on the fuel rail.
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      02-02-2016, 06:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatherM35d View Post
I'm actually referring to the quick connect fitting after the fuel filter before the hpfp, it's possible to reach with a car in a parking lot standing up top
Sorry heather. You were pointing an easier place to access than FF inlet.
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      02-02-2016, 06:43 PM   #12
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So I did a little diagnosing before work, there's no power to the pump, and maybe some power to the tiny module that connects to the pump (my battery didn't last long enough). I'm gonna pull that apart tomorrow and see if anything is wrong with it.

At least power is somewhat easy to determine. I'll update my findings later on. It sucks I work full time and go to school full time so this will be annoying lol
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      02-02-2016, 10:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrecker335d View Post
So I did a little diagnosing before work, there's no power to the pump, and maybe some power to the tiny module that connects to the pump (my battery didn't last long enough). I'm gonna pull that apart tomorrow and see if anything is wrong with it.

At least power is somewhat easy to determine. I'll update my findings later on. It sucks I work full time and go to school full time so this will be annoying lol
How did you check power? If its already primed you may have to crank the car to get 12v to the pump. I not sure though...
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      02-02-2016, 11:29 PM   #14
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I cranked the car and it didn't show any voltage readings.

I did a continuity test on the input/output for that little box, the negative shows a ping and the positive doesn't display anything. I opened it up but saw no obvious signs of an open circuit, so I'll just get a new one and hope it works.
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      02-03-2016, 05:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrecker335d View Post
I cranked the car and it didn't show any voltage readings.

I did a continuity test on the input/output for that little box, the negative shows a ping and the positive doesn't display anything. I opened it up but saw no obvious signs of an open circuit, so I'll just get a new one and hope it works.
Did you check your fuses?
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      02-03-2016, 06:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
Fuel pump was not the problem in Whitbread 's case. We were able to activate it with Ediabas and could hear the fuel flowing, but nothing after the HPFP. So our thought was that it is either the bypass valve on the HPFP or the regulator on the fuel rail.
Mik what is the job name for priming the lift pump in EDIABAS?
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      02-03-2016, 01:03 PM   #17
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Fuses are good (when have those ever blown, lol), power goes into the module. 98% sure it's the module, part # (16147407513). They're $250.

My friend mentioned that the module tends to be the first thing to go out in a fuel related issue.
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Last edited by WreckerX5d; 02-03-2016 at 10:43 PM..
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      02-03-2016, 05:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet View Post
Mik what is the job name for priming the lift pump in EDIABAS?
Look here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=90
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      02-03-2016, 06:54 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335dsleeper View Post
Sorry about you situation. If you can, pull your rear seat and verify you have power to you fuel pump and verify its pumping. If not, its most likely the relay, which you can make a jumper wire for. Or maybe the fuel pump.

I recently did preventative fuel pump swaps on both my 335d and my 35D and to my surprise, the 35D had been drawing too much amperage causing the 12v positive wire to melt and had melted the the plastic housing on the pump. It was a matter of time before it left me stranded. So, pop the seat and and remove the 4-10mm nuts on the passenger side access cover. You'll see the fuel pump and wiring there. You should be able to determine if the pump is pumping and if you have power to the pump.

I have my old fuel pump I can send you if you need to try it.

Thanks for the heads up on this. Any idea what current the pump should draw?
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      02-04-2016, 07:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torqueisking View Post
Thanks for the heads up on this. Any idea what current the pump should draw?
When i used a 12V battery with an inline fuse, a 4 amp slow blow would last about 12 seconds. Eventualy, ran it straight to pump pins with no fuse and ran for 2 minutes to purge air out after FF change. YMMV
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      02-05-2016, 03:00 PM   #21
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I replaced the module, no success. idrive gives an error of fuel pump now (it didn't before). Could this be a coding issue or the pump itself? I don't believe I had any issues with the current pump, although I am unsure of the symptoms of a dying pump.
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      02-05-2016, 03:25 PM   #22
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Something like this? This is what I got after mucking up the module contacts that connect to pump's wiring harness.
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