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No start but turns over
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02-01-2016, 11:02 PM | #1 |
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No start but turns over
So my car got stuck just now, was about to leave and it won't start. It cranks over yet no fuel gets to the engine. It was running completely fine before that. What could cause this? I did have an undercarriage wash earlier but that's the only change. Hopefully it drys out tomorrow and will start back up, or at least the ECU resets and sleeps.
My luck so far this year has been damn shitty (other than Bohl replacing my DPF and ECU).
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02-02-2016, 05:55 AM | #2 |
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That is strange. Whitbread had the same problem a couple of months ago. We read the fuel pressure with Ediabas and there was nothing. We then swapped the pressure regulator valve on the pump itself with mine, still no start. After swapping back we packed in for the night. After a little while Matt tried a last time before leaving the shop and she started right up as if nothing ever happened. We never found root cause.
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02-02-2016, 06:31 AM | #3 | |
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02-02-2016, 07:43 AM | #4 |
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IGNORE THIS IF YOU HADN'T MESSED WITH FUEL FILTER LATELY:
Did anyone mess with connection from lifting pump to fuel pump module? When trying to power my pump directly, I FUBAR'd the contacts in the connector and then car wouldn't start. Changed contacts and it was like nothing bad had ever happened? I recall Whitbread did the direct power to pump method with an ATV battery but didn't know if he powered directly to pump's pins or through the connector. Before changing the contact pins, the fit between connector and module was loosey goosey. After pin change, connection felt pretty solid. Heather wants you to show that the lifting pump is providing flow to inlet of filter. Last edited by BB_cuda; 02-02-2016 at 08:07 AM.. |
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02-02-2016, 08:33 AM | #5 |
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I'm actually referring to the quick connect fitting after the fuel filter before the hpfp, it's possible to reach with a car in a parking lot standing up top
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02-02-2016, 09:33 AM | #6 |
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Sorry about you situation. If you can, pull your rear seat and verify you have power to you fuel pump and verify its pumping. If not, its most likely the relay, which you can make a jumper wire for. Or maybe the fuel pump.
I recently did preventative fuel pump swaps on both my 335d and my 35D and to my surprise, the 35D had been drawing too much amperage causing the 12v positive wire to melt and had melted the the plastic housing on the pump. It was a matter of time before it left me stranded. So, pop the seat and and remove the 4-10mm nuts on the passenger side access cover. You'll see the fuel pump and wiring there. You should be able to determine if the pump is pumping and if you have power to the pump. I have my old fuel pump I can send you if you need to try it. |
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02-02-2016, 09:46 AM | #7 | |
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02-02-2016, 01:01 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll look into this today before work (car is currently stuck there lol).
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02-02-2016, 01:12 PM | #9 |
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02-02-2016, 06:19 PM | #10 |
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Fuel pump was not the problem in Whitbread 's case. We were able to activate it with Ediabas and could hear the fuel flowing, but nothing after the HPFP. So our thought was that it is either the bypass valve on the HPFP or the regulator on the fuel rail.
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02-02-2016, 06:28 PM | #11 |
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02-02-2016, 06:43 PM | #12 |
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So I did a little diagnosing before work, there's no power to the pump, and maybe some power to the tiny module that connects to the pump (my battery didn't last long enough). I'm gonna pull that apart tomorrow and see if anything is wrong with it.
At least power is somewhat easy to determine. I'll update my findings later on. It sucks I work full time and go to school full time so this will be annoying lol
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02-02-2016, 10:02 PM | #13 | |
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02-02-2016, 11:29 PM | #14 |
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I cranked the car and it didn't show any voltage readings.
I did a continuity test on the input/output for that little box, the negative shows a ping and the positive doesn't display anything. I opened it up but saw no obvious signs of an open circuit, so I'll just get a new one and hope it works.
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02-03-2016, 05:33 AM | #15 | |
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02-03-2016, 06:02 AM | #16 |
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Mik what is the job name for priming the lift pump in EDIABAS?
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02-03-2016, 01:03 PM | #17 |
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Fuses are good (when have those ever blown, lol), power goes into the module. 98% sure it's the module, part # (16147407513). They're $250.
My friend mentioned that the module tends to be the first thing to go out in a fuel related issue.
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Last edited by WreckerX5d; 02-03-2016 at 10:43 PM.. |
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02-03-2016, 05:01 PM | #18 | |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=90 |
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02-03-2016, 06:54 PM | #19 | |
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Thanks for the heads up on this. Any idea what current the pump should draw? |
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02-04-2016, 07:35 PM | #20 |
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When i used a 12V battery with an inline fuse, a 4 amp slow blow would last about 12 seconds. Eventualy, ran it straight to pump pins with no fuse and ran for 2 minutes to purge air out after FF change. YMMV
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02-05-2016, 03:00 PM | #21 |
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I replaced the module, no success. idrive gives an error of fuel pump now (it didn't before). Could this be a coding issue or the pump itself? I don't believe I had any issues with the current pump, although I am unsure of the symptoms of a dying pump.
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