[RogerN]

How labor intensive is replacing these?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by RogerN

How labor intensive is replacing these?

Why? What's wrong with them?

[RogerN]

The rear line is leaking coolant, just trying to wrap my head around this before fixing. I figured i will replace both while I am in there.

[nyt]

Originally Posted by RogerN

The rear line is leaking coolant, just trying to wrap my head around this before fixing. I figured i will replace both while I am in there.

You have to drop the subframe and pull the downpipes to be able to access them. Not a fun job

[RogerN]

Originally Posted by nyt

You have to drop the subframe and pull the downpipes to be able to access them. Not a fun job

Thanks, sucks because I was at that point about a month ago. Of course, no problem then.

[bleicht]

I just replaced my turbos and found out that both of my turbo coolant lines were leaking at the block connection. I'd noticed a slow leak in coolant for a long time but never saw anything on the ground or the undertray. I hope your leak is small enough to ignore until you're ready for a turbo upgrade.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by RogerN

The rear line is leaking coolant, just trying to wrap my head around this before fixing. I figured i will replace both while I am in there.

It's probably not the lines themselves but the little O-rings. By all accounts the oil & coolant lines on the N54 are top quality. I haven't ready any posts of about upgrading these lines in a long time. Guys with 600hp use the OEM lines.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by RogerN

Thanks, sucks because I was at that point about a month ago. Of course, no problem then.

Did you renew the o rings on all connections back then or is it leaking from the pipe?

[RogerN]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Did you renew the o rings on all connections back then or is it leaking from the pipe?

No, I had it apart to replace the downpipes, wish I would have now but hindsight is 20/20.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by RogerN

No, I had it apart to replace the downpipes, wish I would have now but hindsight is 20/20.

Yeah when I will do my turbos I think I'll definitely refresh all the O rings now.

Hold on though, are you saying you took sub frame out to change downpipes?

[RogerN]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Yeah when I will do my turbos I think I'll definitely refresh all the O rings now.

Hold on though, are you saying you took sub frame out to change downpipes?

No, but since the downpipes were out I would had had a better chance than now, but looks like the subframe is coming out after all. I will replace the oil pan gasket while I am there.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by RogerN

No, but since the downpipes were out I would had had a better chance than now, but looks like the subframe is coming out after all. I will replace the oil pan gasket while I am there.

If you don't have 1.75" silicone inlets, that would be a great time to install them, when the downpipes & subframe are out of the way.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by nyt

You have to drop the subframe and pull the downpipes to be able to access them. Not a fun job

+1

Good time to upgrade turbos

Mike

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Yeah when I will do my turbos I think I'll definitely refresh all the O rings now.

Hold on though, are you saying you took sub frame out to change downpipes?

When doing turbos its best to check all lines (coolant / oil). Usually they are okay but perfect opportunity for a good injection / replacement.

Mike

[blown07]

You are in luck if the rear coolant line is leaking at the block...you only need to remove the engine cover and cowl. When I did the turbo's on the XI I had a small leak at this location and my heart sank (pinched an o-ring). I quickly discovered that with this line you can remove the screw to the block and there is plenty of rubber line to allow you to pull it out and easily replace the o-ring from the top. The hard part is seeing this screw. I used my fiber optic camera to see the screw and some silicone (let it dry) to hold the screw onto the torx when I removed it. Took me about 20 minutes and saved hours of work.

[RogerN]

Originally Posted by blown07

You are in luck if the rear coolant line is leaking at the block...you only need to remove the engine cover and cowl. When I did the turbo's on the XI I had a small leak at this location and my heart sank (pinched an o-ring). I quickly discovered that with this line you can remove the screw to the block and there is plenty of rubber line to allow you to pull it out and easily replace the o-ring from the top. The hard part is seeing this screw. I used my fiber optic camera to see the screw and some silicone (let it dry) to hold the screw onto the torx when I removed it. Took me about 20 minutes and saved hours of work.

Thanks, this helps a lot, anything to make the job easier!