[iqraceworks]

I ordered the M3 front and rear control arm kit from FCP, and also the Whiteline rear subframe bushings....and I'm going to start working on the car this weekend. Any tips and tricks for changing all of this stuff out?

I'm assuming I can just lower the rear subframe to change the bushings, and not completely remove it? Anything else I should do when I'm doing all of this work?

Any tips, tricks, or advice would be a big help! Thanks!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I ordered the M3 front and rear control arm kit from FCP, and also the Whiteline rear subframe bushings....and I'm going to start working on the car this weekend. Any tips and tricks for changing all of this stuff out?

I'm assuming I can just lower the rear subframe to change the bushings, and not completely remove it? Anything else I should do when I'm doing all of this work?

Any tips, tricks, or advice would be a big help! Thanks!

I'd take the the rear subframe out of the car, if you are changing out the sub frame bushings.

[iqraceworks]

But can it be done with just lowering it? Pulling it out completely is a lot more work....pulling the diff, exhaust, brake lines, etc.....

[Serf27]

I don’t think you can lower it enough to comfortably change the bushings with the exhaust still there.

If you have a table that’s able to support the weight of the subframe, this is the best way.
Remove and hang calipers
Remove exhaust
Disconnect abs and brake sensors
Lower the car on the lift to where the subframe rests on the tables and unbolt the 4 bolts holding it in.
The driveshaft has some movement to where you can raise the car back up a bit with the subframe on the table.
The e brake cables will also have slack to allow the car to be raised and the subframe on the table.

If you don’t mind working with a few inches of clearance under the car. if you want more space then the drive shaft is easy to disconnect once the exhaust is removed(I think you will have to remove it) and the e brake cables won’t take long.
You don’t have to remove the diff to drop the subframe, it comes out with it.

[iqraceworks]

Thanks for the info!!! I think I might just pull the entire subframe.....I have new control arms for the back also ...so I can just do it all when I have it out.

Any trick to getting the driveshaft out? I know it's got a 50mm but you have to spin off...right?

[Serf27]

Changing controls arms is much easier with the subframe out and working above it as well.
Dropping the subframe is easy too, only annoying part is the e brake cables.

The driveshaft is also much easier to disconnect from the transmission using a t50 or t55 with a 16mm wrench.(or sizes very similar to that)
You do have to remove some heat shields which are easy but remove the 3 bolts that bolt the driveshaft on the transmission and 2 carrier bearings bolts and it comes out attached to the diff.

If you want to remove it straight from the diff
You need the big 50mm open end wrench. Not sure on the size but you say 50 so 50.
The open end also can only be about 3/8” thick because that’s all the space there is to slide it onto the nut in the driveshaft.
You will also need to have keep the driveshaft still. I think you keep it in gear for that. Or buy vice grips with the chain end to clamp and hold the driveshaft from spinning.
Both the 50mm and chain vise grips can be bought at harbor fright but the 50mm open end teeth have to be cut in about half, if that makes sense.
Or just remove it from the front of the transmission and drop it with the diff/subframe(easier and cheaper in my opinion).

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-in-...amp-56400.html


https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piec...set-33284.html

[iqraceworks]

Thanks....it sounds like taking it off of the transmission is the easiest way to do it.

[Serf27]

Yea it is. Don’t have to deal with cutting up the wrench to make it fit(or finding one that fits exactly on it) and having the driveshaft spin. It would also take the same amount of time to remove the heat shield and carrier bearing, if not less time.
The rear struts can just be unbolted from the bottom of the subframe and left attached to the car.
GL

[iqraceworks]

Thanks for the info guys! I will post some pictures after it's all said and done!!

[IllSic_Design]

I did all my bushings a few weeks ago. It *might* be possible to do subframe bushings with it dropped down IF you have the right pullers/installers(HP Autosport). But I removed the complete thing and it was STILL a HUGE PITA even with a hydraulic press lol.

[iqraceworks]

Well.....I went to start on the front arms, and it looks like the previous owner already put the TRW M3 arms on the car in the front.....same part numbers and everything. Hopefully FCP will let me return them. I guess I will start on the rear subframe......