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      04-15-2022, 08:44 PM   #1
Watch_me
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Please Help: Is my FRM fried?

So I was working on replacing the DISA valves and it seems the FRM died suddenly. It appears the FRM3 is prone to sudden death when disconnecting / reconnecting the battery.

I did disconnect battery a few times to prevent discharge while working. In the interim, I did charge battery a couple of hours. Also drove around about 15 miles to see if problem would go away.

I do have some screenshots of the codes below. Main one is the CDAB, a few others below. I use BavTech cable.

Some symptom highlights:

Headlights are not working (always in DRL mode)
Turn signals do not work
Windows do not go down
Taillights are always on for some reason.
Brake lights work OK
What are options for replacing FRM? Is there someone who can reprogram them for a fee?

Also obviously buying a new one is an option, what software can be used to code new one?

I know I'm reaching but is there a way to "hard reset" module?

Thank!





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      04-16-2022, 12:38 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watch_me View Post
So I was working on replacing the DISA valves and it seems the FRM died suddenly. It appears the FRM3 is prone to sudden death when disconnecting / reconnecting the battery.

I did disconnect battery a few times to prevent discharge while working. In the interim, I did charge battery a couple of hours. Also drove around about 15 miles to see if problem would go away.

I do have some screenshots of the codes below. Main one is the CDAB, a few others below. I use BavTech cable.

Some symptom highlights:

Headlights are not working (always in DRL mode)
Turn signals do not work
Windows do not go down
Taillights are always on for some reason.
Brake lights work OK
What are options for replacing FRM? Is there someone who can reprogram them for a fee?

Also obviously buying a new one is an option, what software can be used to code new one?

I know I'm reaching but is there a way to "hard reset" module?

Thank!





Yes, sounds like the FRM is toasted. I think there is some sort of extended warranty for them in the US. Not sure of the specifics though. Try doing a forum search. It has been discussed many times on here.

You can get them repaired if it's not covered under warranty, or you could just get a used one from a car wrecking yard.
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      04-16-2022, 08:04 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvaBmw View Post
Yes, sounds like the FRM is toasted. I think there is some sort of extended warranty for them in the US. Not sure of the specifics though. Try doing a forum search. It has been discussed many times on here.

You can get them repaired if it's not covered under warranty, or you could just get a used one from a car wrecking yard.
Hi, yes thank you for the info. I've been doing some searching. And here's a quick write-up of options. Do you happen to know for a new or used / module how do you program it into the car? I assume use ISTA-D / NCSexpert or others? But is there a step by step maybe?

Last edited by Watch_me; 04-16-2022 at 08:15 AM..
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      04-16-2022, 02:33 PM   #4
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If it's used i think you will stuggle to do it with ISTA/P as it won't like the different vin number, so in that case you could program it with WINKFP to change the vin and then you will have to write your vehicle order (vo) to the new FRM and code it, both of these are done with NCS expert. There is loads of guides on here and the internet on how to do it.

If it's a brand new one it would be easiest to do it with ISTA/P.

Is your car covered by the FRM extended warranty?
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      04-16-2022, 03:17 PM   #5
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Your FRM is dead 100%. You have 3 options.

1. Remove it (takes about 15 minutes) and send it to someone to repair it. This is usually the cheapest option and most convenient if the person repairing it does a complete job, you just plug in the repaired unit and drive. No need to program anything.

2. Purchase a used unit and program it to the car. This can be done with bimmergeeks protools if you are not very tech savvy or ncs expert, windows laptop and kdcan cable. You do not need to flash the unit, just write vehicle order from CAS to FRM and code.

3. There is a 10 year/150,000 mile warranty on the frm3. If your car is still within that extended parts warranty you can take it to the dealership and have it replaced for free.
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      04-16-2022, 06:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvaBmw View Post
If it's used i think you will stuggle to do it with ISTA/P as it won't like the different vin number, so in that case you could program it with WINKFP to change the vin and then you will have to write your vehicle order (vo) to the new FRM and code it, both of these are done with NCS expert. There is loads of guides on here and the internet on how to do it.

If it's a brand new one it would be easiest to do it with ISTA/P.

Is your car covered by the FRM extended warranty?
Thanks! Yeah I am JUST out of the extended FRM warranty: mine is 2011 with 159,000 miles. I believe FRM warranty is 156,000 miles or 10 years.
I think plan B would be to buy a new one and code it in. What you wrote helps thank you! If I were to buy one, I would start looking for exact procedure.
For now trying to find local shop that will rewrite the EEPROM data, seems like some places to id for a bout $150.
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      04-16-2022, 06:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd********* View Post
Your FRM is dead 100%. You have 3 options.

1. Remove it (takes about 15 minutes) and send it to someone to repair it. This is usually the cheapest option and most convenient if the person repairing it does a complete job, you just plug in the repaired unit and drive. No need to program anything.

2. Purchase a used unit and program it to the car. This can be done with bimmergeeks protools if you are not very tech savvy or ncs expert, windows laptop and kdcan cable. You do not need to flash the unit, just write vehicle order from CAS to FRM and code.

3. There is a 10 year/150,000 mile warranty on the frm3. If your car is still within that extended parts warranty you can take it to the dealership and have it replaced for free.
Thanks mate! Trying to look for someone locally to program and repair it, instead of sending it in. If all else fails, I'd just buy a new one and learn the NCS-expert software. Oh and yes I am just a few thousand mi over the warranty: 159,000.
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      04-16-2022, 07:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watch_me View Post
Thanks mate! Trying to look for someone locally to program and repair it, instead of sending it in. If all else fails, I'd just buy a new one and learn the NCS-expert software. Oh and yes I am just a few thousand mi over the warranty: 159,000.
I can repair them, you just have to cover shipping back and forth, if you can't find someone locally.
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      04-18-2022, 07:24 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by LMB335IS View Post
I can repair them, you just have to cover shipping back and forth, if you can't find someone locally.
Thank you! I will PM you for details, still looking around for local shop.
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      04-18-2022, 07:26 AM   #10
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I have seen several threads and youtube videos how to code-in a new FRM3. However, I want to make sure the steps are correct. Most guides I have come across list 5-7 lines without true detail.
I wrote down the steps below as I looked at several sources. Can someone please look and correct if any steps are incorrect for Standard Tools please?

Code:
open INPA
 - make sure Ignition On, Cable On
 - select E90 (or other chassis)
 - select Body
 - select FRM (pre or post 07) [warnings pop up]
  - check info, errors, etc. [to see codes, part num, etc.]
 - close
open WinKfp
 - choose comfort
 - update ECU (F3)
 - choose FRM version installed (usually 3)
 - enter VIN (F4) [provide your vin number]
 - OK; Done
 - Prog ZB Update [takes a few min]
 - close
USE INPA to verify VIN:
 - Select E90
 - Functional Jobs
 - E90; User Info Field; [VIN should match other Modules]
open NCS-Expert
 - file; load profile
 - choose manipulation (or expert)
 - start (F1)
 - Chassis (F3); Pick E89 [Seems strange, but E9X series are all under E89]
 - Choose CAS; OK
 - Back (F6)
 - Process ECU (F4); Choose NFRM; OK
 - Change Job (F2); Choose FA_WRITE
 - Execute Job (F3)
 - Back to Main (F6); Start (F1)
 - Chassis (F3); Choose NFRM; Back (F6); Process ECU (F4) [Jobname: SG_CODEREN, takes a bit of time]
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      04-18-2022, 09:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMB335IS View Post
I can repair them, you just have to cover shipping back and forth, if you can't find someone locally.
Thank you for response! I see you are in FL.
Will you please PM me details, I cannot PM anyone for some reason yet. How much do you charge for the FRM service repair? Currently I am hitting a bit of a wall trying to find local shop...
Thank you again!
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      04-19-2022, 01:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watch_me View Post
Thank you for response! I see you are in FL.
Will you please PM me details, I cannot PM anyone for some reason yet. How much do you charge for the FRM service repair? Currently I am hitting a bit of a wall trying to find local shop...
Thank you again!
It's not letting me PM you either. Email me at clustersandcoding@gmail.com
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      04-19-2022, 02:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by LMB335IS View Post
It's not letting me PM you either. Email me at clustersandcoding@gmail.com
Thanks for your response man! I just picked up my fixed module. Thank you again and not sure why admins disabled my PM ability...
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      04-19-2022, 02:52 PM   #14
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All fixed! I can't believe how quickly an FRM can be revived with the right equipment. The shop only had for less than 24 hours, and I'm sure it only took a couple of minutes to recode the module. It was also done at "extremely reasonable" cost.
Big thank you to Mperor Tuning shop for doing the work (link below). I picked up the FRM, disconnected the battery and connected the 3 harness connectors into FRM. Immediately I was able to unfold mirrors upon battery reconnection. Lights, windows, everything works! No coding needed.
The shop did excellent job, and do call if you have any electrical (other?) issues, they seem to know BMW quite well.
https://goo.gl/maps/4N63f2UXYJJ4WxXeA
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      04-20-2022, 08:28 PM   #15
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It is really nuts how much is controlled by that module. Sounds like yours was scrambled, similar to how mine was with the battery being disconnected. Glad you got it fixed!
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      04-22-2022, 10:44 AM   #16
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I have similar problem with my FRM. I am curious though. I would like to be able to fix this myself. Is there any write up/ instructions on how to do this?
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      05-25-2022, 09:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N55Jamaican View Post
I have similar problem with my FRM. I am curious though. I would like to be able to fix this myself. Is there any write up/ instructions on how to do this?
Yes you can, but it is not easy. Here's thread for it below. You will also need to buy / borrow a programmer unit somewhere.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1189062
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      05-28-2022, 05:25 PM   #18
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Any tips on how not to deep six the FRM when disconnecting the battery for other maintenance?
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      05-28-2022, 08:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
Any tips on how not to deep six the FRM when disconnecting the battery for other maintenance?
Yeah I've thought about it. I disconnected the battery many-many times without issues. Negative first, then the positive terminal. The most important part in my experience, is the health level of battery. Always keep a healthy battery that is replaced promptly when you notice sluggish starts and/or welcome lights go off too soon.
My guess is that this happened to my FRM because the battery deeply discharged, maybe below 11.5 volts while I was working on the car with the trunk open a long time, car unlocked. Then I tried to recharge the battery, but at this point I think the damage was already done. This discharged battery was already 5 years old (basically absolute age limit for BMW).
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      05-29-2022, 10:55 AM   #20
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FRM does not usually go bad from this.
There where a run of defective FRMS in a certain number of
years for which they had a recall or replacement policy .
They are just not up to spec.
If you are programming them with a low battery or you just
happen to be programming one that has defective chips
for the first time they may blow up.
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