[vtl]

Originally Posted by 335gc

Hey mate, i actually have read your responses on this matter, seems like its the only thing left to do other then taking off the steering column and unlocking the mechanism.

Ill give it a go, what installation do you recommend?

Give this a shot, compared to what I had to do for my first installation this is much easier:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204192

Its a still a steep learning curve though, expect to do a lot of reading on how to use the software.

[MMM335]

Cheers, will do ive done coding prior to this just not familiar with standard tools, i should manage i presume haha.

[MMM335]

^ BOV installed, c clips a cunt, not sure i got it right, if i haven't pretty sure its impossible to install... ive had 3 people helping try seat it same result.

^ Throttle body cleaned up

attempted coding today using BMW Standard tools wish me luck

Jobs:
Code - Register Battery
Reset ELV counter,
Update CAS

Once cars up and running again, and tax return i plan to do the following mods/maintenance

- complete oil/lube change
- walnut blast (may attempt myself)
- coils/sparks
- update vac lines near turbos (done the rest)
- order a new front bar for better IATS
- CSL rear trunk or spoiler
- meth injection
- catless downpipes

[MMM335]

fixed it yay, had a few implications with the coding but cus of missing system32 files.

[MMM335]

^ gave her a clean after my weeks efforts of problems

^ bay nice and clean, the way it should be

^ that ass

Seems i have possibly sold my Adaptive Cruise Control, buying an M3 bumper

anyone had experiences with mars performance fitment?

[Socket]

Originally Posted by 335gc

^ gave her a clean after my weeks efforts of problems

^ bay nice and clean, the way it should be

^ that ass

Seems i have possibly sold my Adaptive Cruise Control, buying an M3 bumper

anyone had experiences with mars performance fitment?

Looking very nice GC I have not used Mars. My M3 bits all from EuroDiv

[MMM335]

I bet there nice and expensive to haha, cheers mate getting there, hope to one day have half the car you do.

[MMM335]

Bit of an update, been throwing 30FF code on WOT, ive literally done just about everything i can to fix the issue.

Car was making proper boost and hitting target prior to putting on the charge pipe and BOV. Ive replaced all vacuum lines, checked and reinstalled cooler made sure T clamps were good as it wasnt quite symetrical with fitment under the radiator, still about 5mm gap, wont sit any higher which pisses me off.. VRSF provided feedback about spacers and nuts to which i then done correctly as i had the spacers between the car, not the nut.
Still doesnt fit right, re checked and dremeled more shroud to no success.. didnt make any difference to fitment.

Fins near the ACC have taken a beating, which also annoys me as VRSF said installation wouldnt harm the cooler, i actually doubt they knew as the ACC is sitting right on the cooler, and any futher modifications to the bracket just arent possible without distrupting the stability and integrity of the ACC... (although i installed without removal of the front bumper)

Charger pipes fitment is a bit off.. OEM clamp installed as advised and has about 3mm of play between the throttle body and the pipe.. Yes the original o ring/seal was installed and i wasnt supplied one. Thinking i might t clamp silicone connector/joint/hose between the two... to see if it eliminates the issue...

Then the other issue of the HKS BOV and that c clip that was a bitch to seat or still isnt seating 100%

I had 3 people, one pushing, me with the c clip pliers and someone bashing the thing in with a flat head to seat it with the 'supplied' oring.. BOV still has play after driving for a while 'can slightly move left to right' its like its popping out. Yes ive read up about the c clip, ive got it installed correctly facing right side up.. also read other users have issues with the supplied oring and that VRSF was or did address the issue...???

Found it odd how they miraculously didnt post part of my package to begin with..

inspected meth bung, sensors, replaced vacuum lines, even had the boys doing the work on DAT335's car inspect fitment of the parts i installed and they couldnt see any issues, and said im being picky with the fitment issues and its unlikely to cause the drop im encountering which is odd.. they commented on the BOV saying that its unlikely the play would cause loss of boost, but agreed the oring supplied is infact a little bigger then it should be. Loosing like 3-5 psi under target.

So might try find a replica replacement oring slightly smaller in depth to see if the BOV then seats with no play..

A smoke test would presumably be the best take to approach the issue and find the cause, just odd how everything was fine prior to the charge pipe/BOV install.. despite the other minor fitment issues and hurdles i encountered. Although im most likely over exaggerating or to pedantic about... Still find it odd somewhat how my order and postage from VRSF was stuffed up and i had to contact them regarding unsent parts within the order.. such as the BOV and it's accesories.

TLDR i know 😂👌

venting my frustration on the issue as its beyond pissing me off now... simple installs turning into bigger jobs and headaches.. then again its not just the car testing me as of late haha 😂 seems
life is having a giggle as of late giving me more drama, hidden twists and turns then channel 7's own summer bay 😂😂😂

[vtl]

Hey mate,

Heres my experience on the VRSF charge pipe:

- Uses non standard throttle body oring to stock (flange is out of spec and needs a thicker oring to seat and seal properly). Using a stock oring may or may not run the risk of boost leaks. One of my other friends asked for a replacment and received a selection of different thickness orings (you can tell they have confidence in their products)
- Rubs against power steering hose because the pipe is too thick and the bend doesnt get it out of the way
- Map sensor flange cuts map sensor orings easily, I've had to chamfer the map sensor oring flange on it with a drill bit to allow the oring to seat properly without cutting. After chamfering the edge the oring sealed properly and didn't leak anymore.
- HKS flange is prone to leaks. The c-clip is a nightmare and required a hammer and drift to seat it properly after many attempts. The c-clip can appear to seat but just wiggling the BOV back and forth with a little force will result the BOV in popping out of the flange.

I pressurized the hot side of the intercooler with an air compressor to test the leaks in the system. After fixing up the leaks the system held 30psi no problems. I suggest you hook your intake up to some sort of tool to pressure test it and diagnose where the leak is coming from.

Needless to say I am not impressed with aftermarket charge pipes and will stick to the OEM pre-2009 stock charge pipes which are not prone to cracking. Post 2009 build car's charge pipes are the ones that blow up.

[MMM335]

Originally Posted by vtl

Hey mate,

Heres my experience on the VRSF charge pipe:

- Uses non standard throttle body oring to stock (flange is out of spec and needs a thicker oring to seat and seal properly). Using a stock oring may or may not run the risk of boost leaks. One of my other friends asked for a replacment and received a selection of different thickness orings (you can tell they have confidence in their products)
- Rubs against power steering hose because the pipe is too thick and the bend doesnt get it out of the way
- Map sensor flange cuts map sensor orings easily, I've had to chamfer the map sensor oring flange on it with a drill bit to allow the oring to seat properly without cutting. After chamfering the edge the oring sealed properly and didn't leak anymore.
- HKS flange is prone to leaks. The c-clip is a nightmare and required a hammer and drift to seat it properly after many attempts. The c-clip can appear to seat but just wiggling the BOV back and forth with a little force will result the BOV in popping out of the flange.

I pressurized the hot side of the intercooler with an air compressor to test the leaks in the system. After fixing up the leaks the system held 30psi no problems. I suggest you hook your intake up to some sort of tool to pressure test it and diagnose where the leak is coming from.

Needless to say I am not impressed with aftermarket charge pipes and will stick to the OEM pre-2009 stock charge pipes which are not prone to cracking. Post 2009 build car's charge pipes are the ones that blow up.

Cheers man covered all the details i needed. I sent VRSF a strongly worded email regarding fitment, customer service and my late order and postage in hope that they will somehow rectify the problem.. Seems they have stuffed me round and gave misleading information about their products which has turned out to be quite the opposite of their perfect fitment and direct bolt on that they claim... The ACC for example with the intercooler had no mention on fitment, although partially my fault as i totally overlooked it. When asking for specifics in regards to it i got 'it should fit, it will be close' after being sent the item no thanks to their extremely slow replies via email... which is kind of poor considering i spent $2000. Needless to say the ACC fits, but with damage to my product in the process. Then there is the charger pipe issue and this stupid HKS BOV which they provide parts for that dont make the product operational to an above par OEM product.... instead i got to inquire, source and buy yet more products to get their product to work at an acceptable standard it seems.

[CYL]

Originally Posted by vtl

Hey mate,

Heres my experience on the VRSF charge pipe:

- Uses non standard throttle body oring to stock (flange is out of spec and needs a thicker oring to seat and seal properly). Using a stock oring may or may not run the risk of boost leaks. One of my other friends asked for a replacment and received a selection of different thickness orings (you can tell they have confidence in their products)
- Rubs against power steering hose because the pipe is too thick and the bend doesnt get it out of the way
- Map sensor flange cuts map sensor orings easily, I've had to chamfer the map sensor oring flange on it with a drill bit to allow the oring to seat properly without cutting. After chamfering the edge the oring sealed properly and didn't leak anymore.
- HKS flange is prone to leaks. The c-clip is a nightmare and required a hammer and drift to seat it properly after many attempts. The c-clip can appear to seat but just wiggling the BOV back and forth with a little force will result the BOV in popping out of the flange.

I pressurized the hot side of the intercooler with an air compressor to test the leaks in the system. After fixing up the leaks the system held 30psi no problems. I suggest you hook your intake up to some sort of tool to pressure test it and diagnose where the leak is coming from.

Needless to say I am not impressed with aftermarket charge pipes and will stick to the OEM pre-2009 stock charge pipes which are not prone to cracking. Post 2009 build car's charge pipes are the ones that blow up.

I was thinking of the charge pipe upgrade tonight and recall reading article saying that only the N55 charge pipe is prone to crack too due to the one piece design whereas N54 is 2 pieces.

I was worrying if there is a cracked in the charge pipe, unfiltered air will go into the engine. But while you also said that the pre 2009 ones are fine, I am leaning more towards NOT to upgrade the CP and save for something else.

[_ink]

Originally Posted by 335gc

fixed it yay, had a few implications with the coding but cus of missing system32 files.

What was the fix?

[MMM335]

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...d-warning.html

Followed this.

Not that ud have to worry about it as you having an 09 car shouldn't have steering lock, i believe they removed this from late 07 onwards as it wasn't required by law anymore, that and i dare say they knew there was an issue with it. One of the two haha, correct me if im wrong. Steering column changed that i can confirm and the lock mechanism was no longer incorporated that was giving me the issues. Dare say your safe from having to ever learn the article, still worth a look but

[MMM335]

Ps: really hate how people saying using standard tools is coding, its simple programming and the coding that does require slight coding is very very basic.

The main thing ive found using is the possibility of bricking the car due to power.. or modules not completing. Which should all be reversible when i get good enough i might do remote work for Australians for free on my weeks off once my study is out of the way.

[MMM335]

third post in a row +1 post count

updated front page post.

[CashedUpBogan]

Originally Posted by 335gc

Ps: really hate how people saying using standard tools is coding, its simple programming and the coding that does require slight coding is very very basic.

The main thing ive found using is the possibility of bricking the car due to power.. or modules not completing. Which should all be reversible when i get good enough i might do remote work for Australians for free on my weeks off once my study is out of the way.

lol really hate? But you're editing lines of code, changing values, right? There is no real programming going on, you're not creating any new architecture, the lines have been written.

You use NCS-Expert to code your seat belt chime, iDrive warning off, etc. Coding is the most commonly used reference term on this platform for what people do with BMW Standard tools.

The only thing you could say remotely close to programming would be using WinKFP to reprogram your TCU?

[vtl]

Originally Posted by CashedUpBogan

lol really hate? But you're editing lines of code, changing values, right? There is no real programming going on, you're not creating any new architecture, the lines have been written.

You use NCS-Expert to code your seat belt chime, iDrive warning off, etc. Coding is the most commonly used reference term on this platform for what people do with BMW Standard tools.

The only thing you could say remotely close to programming would be using WinKFP to reprogram your TCU?

Yeah I get what he means. Its not coding anything, just editing a configuration file and uploading it to the module.

Using WinKFP I would personally call it firmware updating or flashing the unit. You don't ever say you 'reprogram' your phone or router when you update the firmware?

Official BMW terms are coding (NCSExpert) and programming (WinKFP)

[MMM335]

To me coding is more complex, hence why i hate the term makes it sound way more difficult then what it is and scared me off a little as i used to code and write languages back in my IT days.

[EB89]

Originally Posted by 335gc

To me coding is more complex, hence why i hate the term makes it sound way more difficult then what it is and scared me off a little as i used to code and write languages back in my IT days.

There is no distinction between complex coding and simple coding.
Complexity comes from the persons skill level.

If you change a value in existing code, you are changing code, you are coding.

Doesn't mean you will get employed by Google or Apple, that's why no one writes "codeing" on their resume, you write that you know PHP or HTML or nodeJS or python or JAVA etc and how many years experience.

Being able to code a BMW doesn't mean you can code anything else and vice versa.

Another example of this that isn't used, but works is auto mechanic.

You install a charge pipe on your car, doesn't make you a mechanic, but you are doing auto mechanic work, it's just very basic.

Obviously no one says they are going to do auto mech work on the weekend, but people do say they are going to code their car on the weekend.

Another example is detailing a car, everyone washes their car, doesn't make them a detailer, but you are detailing.

I don't know why I've spent so much time replying to this lol, must be bored.

[CashedUpBogan]

Originally Posted by EB89

There is no distinction between complex coding and simple coding.
Complexity comes from the persons skill level.

If you change a value in existing code, you are changing code, you are coding.

Doesn't mean you will get employed by Google or Apple, that's why no one writes "codeing" on their resume, you write that you know PHP or HTML or nodeJS or python or JAVA etc and how many years experience.

Being able to code a BMW doesn't mean you can code anything else and vice versa.

Another example of this that isn't used, but works is auto mechanic.

You install a charge pipe on your car, doesn't make you a mechanic, but you are doing auto mechanic work, it's just very basic.

Obviously no one says they are going to do auto mech work on the weekend, but people do say they are going to code their car on the weekend.

Another example is detailing a car, everyone washes their car, doesn't make them a detailer, but you are detailing.

I don't know why I've spent so much time replying to this lol, must be bored.

exactly! Just because someone is more proficient at something, doesn't make the more basic any less applicable yet at the same time doing something basic doesn't make them a professional.

At the end of the day it's just a word. All symantics.

Mistaking coding for programming is like mistaking a geek for a nerd lol

[_ink]

Originally Posted by CashedUpBogan

exactly! Just because someone is more proficient at something, doesn't make the more basic any less applicable yet at the same time doing something basic doesn't make them a professional.

At the end of the day it's just a word. All symantics.

Mistaking coding for programming is like mistaking a geek for a nerd lol

wait... all this time i thought i was a certified coder!!

Bubble... BLOWN!

[Socket]

Originally Posted by _ink

wait... all this time i thought i was a certified coder!!

Bubble... BLOWN!