[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Erm...the part number quoted and shown on the injector is for an N53 injector.

The part number is right for N53 - but the description says and lists N54 etc power cars. They are clearly chinese knockoff and who's knows what they are for.

AVOID like the plague...... Better to 2nd hand genuine (which is a lottery) than this rubbish.

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Genuine or not, the seller doesn't know his injectors. The part number he quotes is not for the BMW models listed.

exactly!..

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Hxm99

Hello there
I'm currently looking at an N53 325i from 2007, car has full BMW service history and injector recall was done in 2012. 2 injectors along with the coil packs were replaced in 2017 again. Judging by the pictures the car has somewhat of a black exhaust. You reckon this may have been an issue of the past? such as injector issue or NOx(recall was done), or is this most likely a current problem and therefore I should keep away from this car? I was thinking of diagnosing the car using INPA, however, I am a bit of a noob when it comes to such complicated software

Your probably running a mismatched set of injectors. as .11 where available in 2017 and they only way to find out is to lift the engine cover... At the same time check each spark plug for wetness - black soot is correlation not a causation.. if you have a black exhaust you have overfueiling which is often leaky injectors on a N53 but could be a load of other things to..

[Will_460cs]

Quick Update on my long term car...

In septemeber 2021 I did:

Oil filter housing Gasket
Oil Cooler gasket
Rocker cover gasket
Inlet manifold removed
Full Carbon clean of the intake Valves
New Spark Plugs
New Coils
New Drive Belt
Fitted a replacement NOX probe
Full Fluid Service
Car was massively improved in smoothness and running. This was in part due to the replacement coils and plug and also the Carbon cleaning of the intake as they were quite nasty, I used parts from BMW dealer (Harry Fairborn) as they were cheaper than Autodoc at the time.

Did about 10-12K miles since then to June "23.

Bit the bullet and Bought a Noxem 129 to fix the Chinese knock off probe (just the 8 wire probe) that although worked had physically detched it self from its threads and was rattling

Initial thoughts on the Noxem is that it is a great device and I wish I had bought it before. It works properly, Lesson learned.

I suppose the challenge now is theses cars now cost more to maintain than there value. hence they are going to be run in to the ground then junked.

I personally love the car it fills a sweet spot of performance, functianilty (in E91 with a detachable tower for my trailer(s)) reliability and driving pleasure.

Currently at 155600 Miles, I will be ploughing more money to keep it maintain properly over the next 5 years and 50-100K, other than normal servicing this will be:

- Remove the NOX Catalysts
- some Paintwork to keep it to a standard of very presentable daily driver.
- New Wheel Bearings
- All new Bushes on the car Hubs which will be stripped and painted or powder coated.
- Remove the front subframe drop the Sump (for the gasket as there's a weap), whilst im in there the Rod bearings and timing gear will be replaced.

[Phil325i]

Full marks for first class maintenance Will! Your experience mostly mirrors mine. I'm on 138,000 and hope to keep it a lot longer yet.

I'd recommend you consider fitting an oil catch can. When my intake manifold was removed recently, my indy reported remarkably clean valves.

But oil leaks are a real pain. Like you I've done OFHG and cooler gaskets. My sump gasket is being done next month. My VGC looks like it may be leaking again (only replaced recently - new valve cover fitted at the same time) if so, I will be putting in a BMW parts warranty claim...

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Full marks for first class maintenance Will! Your experience mostly mirrors mine. I'm on 138,000 and hope to keep it a lot longer yet.

I'd recommend you consider fitting an oil catch can. When my intake manifold was removed recently, my indy reported remarkably clean valves.

But oil leaks are a real pain. Like you I've done OFHG and cooler gaskets. My sump gasket is being done next month. My VGC looks like it may be leaking again (only replaced recently - new valve cover fitted at the same time) if so, I will be putting in a BMW parts warranty claim...

Thanks, I despise oil leaks! I have all the parts to do the sump gasket on the E91 in stock.

But I’m putting it off for a little while as for a few hundred quid more whilst I’m in there I might as well replace the rod bearings, timing gear and take the oil pump apart and inspect it. I’d highly recommend that you check the guides whilst the engine is apart. Rod bearings from bmw are 320£ with a set of rod bolts and the aluminium bolts in addition for the oils pump. The plastics in these cars (all n series) are pretty fragile. The timing chain kit from INA via AUTODOC is about £ 200. It’s allot of work to get the sump off (subframe out) so I’d rather just get it all done - I mention it as you say you are getting the sump done shortly.

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Full marks for first class maintenance Will! Your experience mostly mirrors mine. I'm on 138,000 and hope to keep it a lot longer yet.

I'd recommend you consider fitting an oil catch can. When my intake manifold was removed recently, my indy reported remarkably clean valves.

But oil leaks are a real pain. Like you I've done OFHG and cooler gaskets. My sump gasket is being done next month. My VGC looks like it may be leaking again (only replaced recently - new valve cover fitted at the same time) if so, I will be putting in a BMW parts warranty claim...

I


I reread your post if you go the BMW warranty route make sure you take the car to them before you take it apart. They honour the warranty on the part only if the dealer diagnoses the failure of the part. Not sure if you are aware of this as it changed a few years back.

[Phil325i]

Thanks for the tips Will. The VGC and a new cover were changed by my indy, so he will handle any parts warranty issues. I've run with 6,000 mile oil and filter changes (Mobil1) since almost new, so I'd be extremely disappointed if I had any rod bearing issues. I'm aware of the guide issues too, but my indy reassures me that they are almost all on diesel engines due to the higher torque loadings and stupidly long oil change intervals.

Have you inspected the outside of your sump? Sadly they are steel rather than alloy and prone to corrosion. I only mention it because I'd hate for you to get all the way in, only to find you need a new one!

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Thanks for the tips Will. The VGC and a new cover were changed by my indy, so he will handle any parts warranty issues. I've run with 6,000 mile oil and filter changes (Mobil1) since almost new, so I'd be extremely disappointed if I had any rod bearing issues. I'm aware of the guide issues too, but my indy reassures me that they are almost all on diesel engines due to the higher torque loadings and stupidly long oil change intervals.

Have you inspected the outside of your sump? Sadly they are steel rather than alloy and prone to corrosion. I only mention it because I'd hate for you to get all the way in, only to find you need a new one!

Yes I'm quite used to working on these engines. I have another article Im writing on N55 Bearing replacement with timing gear etc as people gloss over the process. I have all the timing gear and special tools which Ive acquired or made.

Essentially all 6cyl N series are the same with regards to bearings and timing gear thats why I suggested it, as the work time to remove the sump is quite high. At 138K they will be worn regardless of oil changes, either way you can pull cylinder 4-5-6 with out dropping the oil pump or anything else other than the rod caps and windage tray (which should be removed to clean oil pickup tube) and check the condition - the upper cap is where they will be most worn.

Bearings are cheap enough to replace whilst the sump is off, albeit the person doing needs to take care.

Your looking at 2-3 Hrs work to replace the bearings in addition to 6-8HRS for the sump. Parts run at £400 direct from BMW Bearings and Bolts .

I've replaced timing gear on N55 at 69K as the plastics are borderline and BMW changed the material in 2014 which resulted in a colour change. INA are the OEM for timing gear. Pre 2014 the timing gear plastic (the bit thats next to the chain) is Browny red post 2014 its White.


On the valve cover did you get a BMW genuine one?

[Will_460cs]

Also make sure who is doing knows how reprime the oil system, there is puma article, here's the american version thats on their National d/b:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...51166-9999.pdf

This is a resource for American TSB which have to published... BMW Europe issue PUMA to dealers which tie the same type of guidance...

If you open up the oil system, then disconnection the injectors via the electronic connector and turn the engine over for 10secs let it rest for 20-30 secs then rinse and repeat 2 more times.. this primes the oil system, this now std guidance is is on all BMW engines N series onwards and was result of many BMW dealerships having customers with spun bearings within a couple of thousand miles after doing OHFG gasket repairs...

[Will_460cs]

Changing timing gear is only required if you have plastic in the sump or as visual check on the upper guides when the valve cover is off - if there's wear to the plastic where the chain rub you should be able to move the chain fractionally in it feels like its in groove the valve gear has wear - depending on the depth of wear will give an indication of life.

The upper guide wears the most, and the plastic tabs fall of first, in my case the one nearest crack hub sprocket... When you see the timing gear in person removed you will realise how on the edge these components are.

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Thanks for the tips Will. The VGC and a new cover were changed by my indy, so he will handle any parts warranty issues. I've run with 6,000 mile oil and filter changes (Mobil1) since almost new, so I'd be extremely disappointed if I had any rod bearing issues. I'm aware of the guide issues too, but my indy reassures me that they are almost all on diesel engines due to the higher torque loadings and stupidly long oil change intervals.

Have you inspected the outside of your sump? Sadly they are steel rather than alloy and prone to corrosion. I only mention it because I'd hate for you to get all the way in, only to find you need a new one!

You might want to consider swapping oil to high performance Ester if you are doing 6K oil changes/12m, something Like Miller CFS. Same price better oil. I assume you're not bothered about BMW certification for oil as you are using Mobil 1, Miller CFS isn't certified either but its a significant better oil with all the long-life rubbish.

I also like it because its supporting a british company that is award winning and has genuine technology not just marketing.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Will_460cs

On the valve cover did you get a BMW genuine one?

Thanks for all the advice Will. I will consult my indy.

Yes, the valve cover was genuine BMW, hence the suggestion that a claim on their parts warranty will be in order...

[Phil325i]

Hi Will. Following all your advice, I thought you might like an update.

Had new sump gasket and engine mounts fitted yesterday. The sump was completely devoid of any debris, so my chain guides are intact! One sump bolt had sheared off - all new bolts used when refitted. The bottom end looked good, though no bolts were removed.

The suspect oil leak from the new VGC seems to have been blow back from before I replaced my OFHG. After a thorough clean, it hasn't reappeared. So far, so good!

[BimmerMW]

Originally Posted by Will_460cs

Quick Update on my long term car...

In September 2021 I did:

Full Carbon clean of the intake Valves

Walnut blasting? Did it yourself?

[dtatch]

thank you Will

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by BimmerMW

Walnut blasting? Did it yourself?

Chemically cleaned.. same result..

[Will_460cs]

Following a noisy rear wheel bearing (no play) and some uneven rear tyre wear despite correct geo I found once dissembled failure of a special bearing in a control arm which was undetectable as an assembly.

Have done the following work done over the last few months:

Rear end replacement of all control arms with SKF parts and suspension bushes in the subframe (Mainly Febi-Bilstein and Lemforder).
Hubs stripped blasted and painted (Por-15 and chassis black)
New Wheels bearings
New Hub Bushes and spherical bearings
Full String Alignment including camber
One replacement rear calliper
Replacement Bosch rear discs, TRW pads and Vaico Parking brake shoes(replaced as original but un worn no noticeable difference in material to new)
Silicone lube the Pan roof (e91)


All front Arms checking and in perfect condition.

Car now on 160,000 Miles and Mot done with no advisories

As normal car failed 1st emissions check as lambda reading was 2.2, Mot advisor was good enough to allow me to select the correct engine for 2nd test where parameter for lambda unto 4 is allowed.

BTW - Lambda 2 is what these engines should be at if the NOX system is functioning properly. Noxem is doing its job.

The Only fault codes are occasional 3104 (no eml), uneven running, due to the fact that this has an earlier release of BMW DME s/w. Verified by checking OBD2 misfire counters (less than 5 on 100 mile run).

This however doesn't bother me as stratified still enables and seem to be temporary code.


Jobs left to do over next 2 months:

Paint work to rectify a parking dent from last year
PDR for a couple of minor dinks
Fitment of a set of BMW BBS 216 Alloys (acquired)
Fitment of BMW Performance Sill covers (a acquired and dues to painted next month, already have a Performance front Bumper)
Timing chain tensioner ( I suspect mine is getting tired)
Fit Stainless steel exhaust centre section with Nox cat delete (acquire along time ago)
Fit new steering wheel (for cosmetics)

Jobs I would like to do:

Sump gasket, Rod Bearings, timing chain and and guides, replace engine mounts.
Possibly acquire and convert to Aluminium (auto model) sump from pressed steel sump (Manual N53)
Acquire & fit Xennon Headlamps and other parts to fit (non adaptive)
Code Headlamp Washers( fitted but not coded, need to get my head around NCS)

[Phil325i]

A couple of comments:

1) Yes, I'd agree with changing the timing chain tensioner at your mileage. I did mine at 126,000 as preventative.

2) If you regularly change your oil and filter with good quality oil, I would put rod bearings, chain and guides at the bottom of your list. I've not heard of any N53 owner reporting problems in these areas. Most of the rod bearing issues relate to M3 V8s and the chains and guides to BMW diesels.

3) Investigate carefully before you buy the alloy sump. I looked into this a while back and was told it wouldn't fit. Could be wrong though...

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

A couple of comments:

1) Yes, I'd agree with changing the timing chain tensioner at your mileage. I did mine at 126,000 as preventative.

2) If you regularly change your oil and filter with good quality oil, I would put rod bearings, chain and guides at the bottom of your list. I've not heard of any N53 owner reporting problems in these areas. Most of the rod bearing issues relate to M3 V8s and the chains and guides to BMW diesels.

3) Investigate carefully before you buy the alloy sump. I looked into this a while back and was told it wouldn't fit. Could be wrong though...

Phil,

1. interesting did you measure the height of the old vs the new? IE was the spring compressed?


2. Well I will see more once the sump is off I will show some picks, IMO whilst the sump is off I can make an informed judgement. Personally the only way I trust to assess rod bearing is to remove 2-3 exposed rods whilst the sump is off, if there is any wear then its cheap at that point just to replace. I have done this on my n55 at 69K and was shocked with the wear, and I bought this car with 100K mile and FBSH = long overdue oil changes IMO.

All of this stuff is while I'm in there I might as well do it to cover it for the next 150K.

As I do the work myself its all relatively low cost- Bearings £200 (ACL) or 360 (BMW), BMW rod Bolts £20, BMS oil pump bolts £20, IWIS timing chain set is £155 with the timing tensioner that I need to do now. So the other bits that come with it so its effectively free at this point (vs BMW and £70 just for the tensioner)...

trust me these in line 6's do suffer from rod bearing issues N53/N55 are common on this part.. N53 is less stressed, and it will be interesting to see the condition.


3. Alloy sump does fit but you have to remove the nuts impregnated in the engine gearbox plate. They are there as the pressed steel sump doesn't bolt to the gearbox and the ally one does.

[Will_460cs]

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1839941

this has a picture of the gearbox block plates that need to changed or modified to accept a ally (auto) sump...

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Will_460cs

1. interesting did you measure the height of the old vs the new? IE was the spring compressed?

It's a while ago now, but as I recall the length of old and new were pretty close to the same, but the spring of the old tensioner was more easily compressed.