[stefank]

I had some problems with EGR (shaking on idle, rough idle etc, standard symptoms) so my mechanic pulled out the hose from it last week, for testing purposes. As car has started to work perfectly flawless, drove it in that condition for few days just to be sure that we diagnosed problem well, and after that I have ordered this EGR delete set:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/06-AGR-Delet...IAAOSwkRdcSY3e

and I am waiting for delivery now (postal service not so fast obviously). Ofcourse there is a check engine lamp at the moment, together with the "Higher emissions" message on iDrive but that is normal as EGR isn't deleted properly yet.

Today I got a DPF message too, which worried me, as my DPF seemed to be fine before.



Is this DPF message related to non-proper deleting EGR yet, or my DPF has done its job too? People told me that deleting EGR and keeping DPF would work perfectly fine, but I am not so sure about that anymore?

What should I do, should I just buy a new EGR vent and try with cleaning DPF, or I should bring EGR delete process to the end (installing of EGR delete set+remap for electronic shutoff), or it is better to pull both EGR and DPF off the car and maybe even do the stage 2 remap (min. 285 hp, 630 Nm as local tuner offers in that case).

I don't wanna black smoke behind a cabrio, that's the main reason of my thinking. So the best option would be:

1) just finish with deleting EGR, leave DPF ON in the car and stay on stock map (I am up to this method, but will my DPF keep clogging and collapse in some time?!)

2) buy new EGR parts and just set car 100% back to stock

3) DPF+EGR delete+285 hp remap

[Styvy]

Hey Mate,

I would personally go for option 3. I have a chip so I am forced cleaning Inlet manifold and EGR constantly. DPF is not a problem as I drive mostly on Motorways but EGR is pain I could live without. I am also planning same route as soon as I see DPF dying. You wont regret no dpf and egr anyways....
Regards,
Styvy

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by stefank

I had some problems with EGR (shaking on idle, rough idle etc, standard symptoms) so my mechanic pulled out the hose from it last week, for testing purposes. As car has started to work perfectly flawless, drove it in that condition for few days just to be sure that we diagnosed problem well, and after that I have ordered this EGR delete set:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/06-AGR-Delet...IAAOSwkRdcSY3e

and I am waiting for delivery now (postal service not so fast obviously). Ofcourse there is a check engine lamp at the moment, together with the "Higher emissions" message on iDrive but that is normal as EGR isn't deleted properly yet.

Today I got a DPF message too, which worried me, as my DPF seemed to be fine before.



Is this DPF message related to non-proper deleting EGR yet, or my DPF has done its job too? People told me that deleting EGR and keeping DPF would work perfectly fine, but I am not so sure about that anymore?

What should I do, should I just buy a new EGR vent and try with cleaning DPF, or I should bring EGR delete process to the end (installing of EGR delete set+remap for electronic shutoff), or it is better to pull both EGR and DPF off the car and maybe even do the stage 2 remap (min. 285 hp, 630 Nm as local tuner offers in that case).

I don't wanna black smoke behind a cabrio, that's the main reason of my thinking. So the best option would be:

1) just finish with deleting EGR, leave DPF ON in the car and stay on stock map (I am up to this method, but will my DPF keep clogging and collapse in some time?!)

2) buy new EGR parts and just set car 100% back to stock

3) DPF+EGR delete+285 hp remap

DPF is unrelated to EGR, my personal opinion on the matter would have been to pull the vacuum pipe off the EGR, stick a bolt on the pipe to block it which will improve to a margin throttle response and economy and of course keeps your internals far cleaner! The EGR delete pipe to be honest isn't really needed and what I do like about blocking the EGR Vacuum pipe alone is you could just as easily stick the EGR vacuum pipe back onto the EGR to revert back.

Now, the proper thing to do would be to get the EGR codes out of the ECU so that it doesnt function and stops the engine management light. As for the DPF my personal opinion on the matter would be to spend time understanding it before deleting it. Deleting would mean youd have to know a garage who would pass it otherwise any other garage should fail its it's not hard to tell.

A DPF fails for a few reasons, you've not met the conditions in a while for a regeneration such as getting it on the motorway for a while. More typical scenarios of failure are due to knackered thermostats which is a pre requisite for a DPF regeneration and depending on the DDE module the glow plugs will also prevent a regeneration.

I personally would invest In either a Carly adapter and Carly app to diagnose and monitor the car yourself to keep on top of the faults which may be the cause of the DPF starting to block up or purchase a K+Dcan adapter and get the windows software (INPA/ISTA+) where youd have access to BMW's own diagnostic software and can carry out service functions and view guides on how to diagnose issues.. a DPF does solve problems for sure, but it also creates many. Before taking the plunge on anything I would (once again) contact BWChiptune, they usually recommend a remap while keeping the DPF intact as the gains between no dpf and having one arent far off, a remap plus EGR delete (from the remap) would be a great way forward I think.