[fastloop]

Originally Posted by Sparky68

Going to attempt this at the weekend

Good luck... just the hoses or also the pressure converters?

[Sparky68]

Thanks [ i think ]

Hoses, pressure convertors and spark plugs!

[fastloop]

Originally Posted by Sparky68

Thanks [ i think ]

Hoses, pressure convertors and spark plugs!

Just follow the instructions in post #20/#21. Phil200tdi trick with placing a plastic bag below in the engine bay is a good idea to catch any screws you may drop.

Take your time and perhaps apply a bit of heat to the hoses with a hairdryer to help get them off. For the hoses you are replacing you can carefully slice the hose along the length with a knife. Last thing you want to do is snap off a nipple on the brake booster hose or damage the hoses to the actuators that are hard to get at.

[fastloop]

Originally Posted by cfoster

I have just come back from PMW to have my software updated and he said it could be worth replacing both solenoids and vac lines as they get bunged up etc... Where can I buy a vac line kit / solenoids (wastegate solenoids I presume?)from? I'm pretty handy with a spanner so quite happy to give it a go myself, just need a little guidance! (car is an e93 335i)

Cheers

You can buy the parts from your dealers part counter or through any of the online BMW part resellers.

There really isn't a kit for these and you need to buy the individual parts.

So parts you need are :
2x #4 (~£70+VAT each)
1x #5 (~£10+VAT)
1x #6 (~£16+VAT)
2m #7 (~£9+VAT/m)

See link below:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...75&hg=11&fg=45

[fastloop]

Originally Posted by cfoster

great thank you for that! Is accessibility to any of the bits a pain or is it fairly straight forward to get to them all (i have small hands!!)!

No access is fine if you follow my steps in the post #20 and remove the vacuum canisters and temporarily move the coolant reservoir out of the way. You can use a bungee to hold it away while you unbolt the parts. That will give you good access avoiding bloody knuckles or possible breaking off any of the plastic nipples. The hoses you are replacing you can cut making it easier to get them off.... just make sure you double check which line you cut, so you don't slice the wrong one. Same goes for the ones that go across the engine under the cover. Best thing is to slice them length wise on the vacuum booster side as replacing the brake booster line with the two nipples are a pain. I can be done with some extra long pliers and some patience, but it's pain you don't want. If you don't plan to replace the hoses then using a hair dryer to soften up the rubber may help.

You'll need some extension bars for the sockets to get to the 3 bolts/nuts that hold the frame of the vacuum canisters, but other than that a normal socket set should suffice.

[cleex024]

so what kind of vacuum lines are you guys replacing ur oem stuff with? and also how often does a pressure converter go bad? i took mine off today and seems fine looking at it from the outside lol. i bought 2 at the dealer earlier today and was gonna replace it but couldnt take the vacuum lines off so just left it on there.

[Sparky68]

I bought some high temp silicone ones off of ebay. Not expensive and available in loads of colours, i went for red

[paraplan]

Originally Posted by 335rocks

Only done the ones across the engine.

From looking at my old pictures from underneath then I don't think you can get to it from below unless you take off the DPs. Have you tried from up top? The US guys were able to adjust the rear WG from above, so you should be able to get to the hose from above. You may need to remove the scuttle board with the air filter to get enough space. The hose/nipple should point towards the top and be really close to the firewall. So get a mirror on a stick and see if you can get to it.

What's you plan with the front one? I would expect that one to be much harder to get to?

I also wanted to change that hose and had a lot of trouble getting to it. There is no way you can get it done from the top. I managed to access the WG actuator from the bottom removing the underneath covering. It is still very tight there. I've only been able to put the hose on the nipple by shifting my body to the left and sticking my _right_ arm (no way this could be done with the left) into the opening just above the catalytic converter. This way you can do the job by holding the hose between your thumb and pointing finger. If you attempt to use your left hand, you will need to shift to the right but then the only way to hold the hose would be between pointing and middle finger. That did not work for me because my grasp was not strong enough to put the hose on.

I'm really glad I replaced that hose. The original one appeared to be broken just on the part that sits on the nipple. This was the reason for the 3100 code I had problem with. My turbos got changed sometime ago and the dealer never replaced the hose with it. I believe it got damaged when they reattached it back.

Anyway, this may be a hint for those who decide to get all hoses changed.

[Inq]

Originally Posted by Sparky68

I bought some high temp silicone ones off of ebay. Not expensive and available in loads of colours, i went for red

Are the lines you went for 3mm or 4mm? Can't seem to get the 3.5 in silicone in the uk.

[tmarshall57]

Although mine is a 330d which uses as standard the same 3.3mm and 3.5mm internal diameter hose, I have just replaced most of these with 4mm silicone hose from here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261067328695

The pipe fits snugly enough and a cable tie could be used if in doubt.

[Inq]

Originally Posted by tmarshall57

Although mine is a 330d which uses as standard the same 3.3mm and 3.5mm internal diameter hose, I have just replaced most of these with 4mm silicone hose from here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261067328695

The pipe fits snugly enough and a cable tie could be used if in doubt.

Cheers, after some more research it seems the 4mm is used quite often.

[dizzy_7]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, when replacing the vacuum hose across the engine do you need to buy the specific hose with what looks like heat shield tape on it or can you just use high temp silicone replacement vacuum hose?