[ag2]

Hi all,

As the title says, I need a constant 12V source in the glove compartment of my 2006 330i. I thought that the flashlight socket was constant 12V, but to my dismay the power turns off after a couple of hours. So I am guessing I need to remove the glove box and tap a wire. Anyone with a wiring diagram know the colors of constant 12V / ground wires that are easily accessible? Would really appreciate help.

[2007_E93]

YOu have a volt meter? Just about every fuse in the glove box is always on. I have recently checked at least half of the fuses in my E93 and would say that just about all are always on. Fuse 19 is one in mine. Fuse 63, 65...I think 74.

Check with volt meter. Its easy.

Much harder to find ones that are switched than it is to find an always on.

Just checked my wiring diagram,...fuses 1,2, and 4 should all be always on as well.

[ag2]

Thanks. Is there a recommended way of attaching wires to fuses? I already have a set of wire connectors, so I would prefer to find a wire rather than working with fuses.

[Josh49]

There is a fuse tap that I recommend using in the valentine 1 DIY. It plugs into the fuse slot, and then has two fuses on its back, one for the fuse you are plugging into, and one for the accessory you are adding. It has the positive lead, and you can use the torx bolt on the left for ground.. Let me find a link for you..

[Josh49]

Here's a pic someone posted and you can see what it looks like installed. You can pick up the fuse tap at autozone or pep boys, and I think it's an extremely clean method, especially considering each circuit is protected with its own fuse..

[2007_E93]

Originally Posted by ag2

Thanks. Is there a recommended way of attaching wires to fuses? I already have a set of wire connectors, so I would prefer to find a wire rather than working with fuses.

Its called Add-A-Circuit form Autozone or Adv. Auto parts. Available in mini and regular large blade type fuse sizes up to 10Amps. Also, should be safer with a fuse so that you cant potentially draw too much current on the fuse associated with the wire you tap into.

[ag2]

Originally Posted by 2007_E93

Its called Add-A-Circuit form Autozone or Adv. Auto parts. Available in mini and regular large blade type fuse sizes up to 10Amps. Also, should be safer with a fuse so that you cant potentially draw too much current on the fuse associated with the wire you tap into.

Thanks everyone. I asked the same question in the Lexus forum, and nobody has yet replied. You guys are a lot more efficient.

I ended up soldering a piece of wire to a fuse and sticking that in the fuse box. I did buy an add-a-circuit first, but the socket was way too tight. It was almost impossible to insert / remove fuses from it. So I returned it.

BTW, I am doing this to add GPS tracking to my car. At any given time, I can see on Google maps where my car is (and the position updates every few seconds). I'll post more details if anyone is interested.

[Josh49]

There are two size add-a-circuits, blade and mini blade IIRC.. Make sure you pick up the right one for the slot you are trying to tap..

[Brianbmwboy]

Add a Circuits and Fuse Taps are never a good idea, especially in BMW cars that have every circuit in the car monitored by one module or another. Changing resistance on any of these wires can cause the modules function incorrectly. In addition fuse taps can spread pins in a fuse contact making for a poor connection in the block if ever removed.

The correct tie in for the car for any aftermarket accessories is at the main terminal on the battery for constant 12V power. (note there are 3 positive terminals on the battery, catch the smallest on on the outside edge). Then just attach a small guage wire with a fuse holder and fuse right at the battery and run the wire through the car to where you need it.

Accessory (power on while the key is inserted) can be found at the brake pedal (purple wire with white stripe at four pin harness above pedal) and then should go to a relay to run any additional accessories.

Spend a little more time and do it the right way and you'll minimize your problems.

MECP Certified Advanced Installer with certification through 2010

[2007_E93]

Originally Posted by Brianbmwboy

Add a Circuits and Fuse Taps are never a good idea, especially in BMW cars that have every circuit in the car monitored by one module or another. Changing resistance on any of these wires can cause the modules function incorrectly. In addition fuse taps can spread pins in a fuse contact making for a poor connection in the block if ever removed.

The correct tie in for the car for any aftermarket accessories is at the main terminal on the battery for constant 12V power. (note there are 3 positive terminals on the battery, catch the smallest on on the outside edge). Then just attach a small guage wire with a fuse holder and fuse right at the battery and run the wire through the car to where you need it.

Accessory (power on while the key is inserted) can be found at the brake pedal (purple wire with white stripe at four pin harness above pedal) and then should go to a relay to run any additional accessories.

Spend a little more time and do it the right way and you'll minimize your problems.

MECP Certified Advanced Installer with certification through 2010

Many of us have done accessories using add-a circuits and had no issues. I dont understand how wiring an add-a-circuit with a fuse in parallel with another fused circuit is all that much different from a fuse in line with another wire from the battery. Yes technically its best to have a fuse as close to the battery as possible, but most of us are wiring accessories drawing mA or low amperage.

A relay is usually used to have a low current switch to turn on something requiring higher current like accessory fog lights or high power headlights or blow horns. Not many here are doing those type of mods. Most are adding a boost gauge, motion sensor, radar detector and things like that requiring low amperage.

Finally, where does that purple wire with white stripe get its accessory on power? Answer,...From a wire from the fuse box that comes from a relay. So this solution is also like tapping a fuse and adding a circuit in parallel. You are doing the same thing as an add a circuit. I agree I dont like fuse taps,...metal is exposed and it widens the gap in the fuse slot over time.

I'm no electrician, but I find your solutions overly complex for such a small task. For someone wiring an entire car alarm with kill switch and all the bells/whistles or stereo with multiple amps drawing large amounts of current then I might agree with you. NOT trying to start a war here just trying to explain some reasoning behind the methods described.

Just my opinion.

[2007_E93]

so that we're all using the same language

This is what I call a fuse tap

http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...use%20tap&sr=1

This is an Add-a-circuit in my book.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-Add...5558938&sr=8-1

[TheLegacy]

hmm I think the 335 the glove box always draws power. I bought the adaptor and have my V1 plugged in and I think its always on, i gotta turn it off when I leave.

[2007_E93]

Originally Posted by TheLegacy

hmm I think the 335 the glove box always draws power. I bought the adaptor and have my V1 plugged in and I think its always on, i gotta turn it off when I leave.

Find a different fuse or power source to tap into. Fuse 75 is switched as is the Homelink fuse (I don't remember the number).

[TheLegacy]

which the fuse that the flashlight ran off of?

i have the adaptor for the flashlight to be DC 12v in the glovebox. Most cars it turns off and when car is off but not the 335.

[Brianbmwboy]

Originally Posted by 2007_E93

Many of us have done accessories using add-a circuits and had no issues. I dont understand how wiring an add-a-circuit with a fuse in parallel with another fused circuit is all that much different from a fuse in line with another wire from the battery. Yes technically its best to have a fuse as close to the battery as possible, but most of us are wiring accessories drawing mA or low amperage.

A relay is usually used to have a low current switch to turn on something requiring higher current like accessory fog lights or high power headlights or blow horns. Not many here are doing those type of mods. Most are adding a boost gauge, motion sensor, radar detector and things like that requiring low amperage.

Finally, where does that purple wire with white stripe get its accessory on power? Answer,...From a wire from the fuse box that comes from a relay. So this solution is also like tapping a fuse and adding a circuit in parallel. You are doing the same thing as an add a circuit. I agree I dont like fuse taps,...metal is exposed and it widens the gap in the fuse slot over time.

I'm no electrician, but I find your solutions overly complex for such a small task. For someone wiring an entire car alarm with kill switch and all the bells/whistles or stereo with multiple amps drawing large amounts of current then I might agree with you. NOT trying to start a war here just trying to explain some reasoning behind the methods described.

Just my opinion.

Relays are used for switching current, but also for isolating circuits. You may wire your vehicle however you see fit.

The correct way, however, is if you need a true accessory circuit is to catch the brake pedal wire stated above and use a relay with constant power from the battery to run whichever circuit you want.

The reason running a wire to the battery is different than using one from a circuit tied to another, as you were inquiring about, is that a wire to the battery places no additional stress on any bmw designed circuits.

Bosch relays are about $3 and can be used to run any additional circuit we want to install up to 25 amps.

No war intended here either, just trying to help some brothas out. BMW puts a sticker on every one of our windshields about tying in additional electronic devices because they don't want us changing any of the loads on any circuits they design.

The solution stated above will work to tie in anything and will not affect any circuits in the vehicle.

[theanhdy]

The light in the glove box has power even without the key, but the power will go away after awhile. Most of the fuse location in the glove box have power without the key but the ones I've used will lose power after awhile. I need a constant power all the time fuse location. Someone please help me out

[innovaciones]

Sorry to bring this post back but I have exactly the same problem, I have a GPS Tracker installed in my car, its a great way to protect my car in my country (I can locate it and cut out oil from my cell phone!) but the main problem is that it shutdowns after a while, I need to know what fuse is always on with constant energy.

Here is a picture for the current connection:



So where do I need to connect my GPS Tracker so its always on?

I tried doing some test but as the OP said "power turns off after a couple of hours" so I cant test every fuse.

I really dont want to connect my GPS Tracker directly to the battery, there should be a connection in the fuse box with power all the time.

Thanks!!

[cole92]

I posted a pinout of wiring from directed awhile back. I think it's on page 3 or search for 2006-2009 wiring pinout. PDF has everything you need.

Oh and I agree with fuse taps, I dislike them, but also disagree with the pull of devices. The computer could eventually yell at you about an overload of a circuit, but that rarely happens. MECP installers silver and up almost never go into the fuse box.

I've seen some bronze levels do it, but they were within limits on the device they were installing.

Gold level, MECP 2009.

[fdriller9]

Why don't you just keep the gps module in the trunk and wire it to your battery?

[Nr!qUe]

Originally Posted by *********

Why don't you just keep the gps module in the trunk and wire it to your battery?

+1

i ended up running a wire to my trunk to power my radio because the power i got from the fuses would turn off after a couple of hours.

[innovaciones]

Originally Posted by *********

Why don't you just keep the gps module in the trunk and wire it to your battery?

I was planning to do that, lucky I found an ALWAYS on fuse here:



Thanks!

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by Brianbmwboy

Add a Circuits and Fuse Taps are never a good idea, especially in BMW cars that have every circuit in the car monitored by one module or another. Changing resistance on any of these wires can cause the modules function incorrectly. In addition fuse taps can spread pins in a fuse contact making for a poor connection in the block if ever removed.

The correct tie in for the car for any aftermarket accessories is at the main terminal on the battery for constant 12V power. (note there are 3 positive terminals on the battery, catch the smallest on on the outside edge). Then just attach a small guage wire with a fuse holder and fuse right at the battery and run the wire through the car to where you need it.

Accessory (power on while the key is inserted) can be found at the brake pedal (purple wire with white stripe at four pin harness above pedal) and then should go to a relay to run any additional accessories.

Spend a little more time and do it the right way and you'll minimize your problems.

MECP Certified Advanced Installer with certification through 2010

What about the IBS sensor? Which monitors battery performance, current draw, etc. If you wire an accessory directly to the battery, not only do you bypasss the IBS sensor, you also bypass the BST. The BST will blow in the event of an accident. If you have an accessory directly attached to the battery the BST won't work. If there is a fuel leak, it could ignite from the accessory wire shorting on something.

The fuse panel is a much safer place to grab power in a BMW.

I doubt your certificiation went over that...

I should have clarified above, the proper way is to grab power from the distribution block on top of the battery and not directly from it.

You will need to buy the small connector and metal crimp peice that slides into if you still want the BST and IBS to be active and fully functioning.