[Tambohamilton]

Good thing there aren't (m)any more devices on the BSD line!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by WilliamFrear831

Ok! Might have to give that a try. I got new IBS and still have the water pump codes and a power management so I'm assuming it's the alternator! Should I try the regulator first or just replace the whole unit? Think I almost got it!!!

From a cost point, the regulator is much cheaper to be sure. The biggest thing is that you can generate 14.0 to 14.50v driving around etc. Even at idol, you should be over 14.0 with a healthy IBS, battery & alternator.

[WilliamFrear831]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

From a cost point, the regulator is much cheaper to be sure. The biggest thing is that you can generate 14.0 to 14.50v driving around etc. Even at idol, you should be over 14.0 with a healthy IBS, battery & alternator.

Ok so what I'm wondering is if I replace the regulator, will expect to see the codes disappear or I will have to replace the whole alternator itself for that to happen? I guess I'll buy the regulator and get back unless anyone else has input!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by WilliamFrear831

Ok so what I'm wondering is if I replace the regulator, will expect to see the codes disappear or I will have to replace the whole alternator itself for that to happen? I guess I'll buy the regulator and get back unless anyone else has input!

When I replaced the regulator on my alternator last year, the brushes on it were almost gone! My alternator, at the time and still is, original to the car w/ 168,000 miles. I have 174k now. I was not able to produce anything over 13.2v at idol or driving around. After install, I was nothing less than 14.0, often seeing 14.2 to 14.5 on the HWY.

I did and still do get a regulator code in MHD, but it is what it is. I know the DME's in the early years, are super sensitive.

I'm 100% convinced I prolonged the life of my alternator, which isn't cheap by the way.

[WilliamFrear831]

I did the regulator in my alternator and codes are now gone!!!

[Kmart202]

Originally Posted by WilliamFrear831

Any advice would help! I hear alternator could be a cause, but why would I get water pump codes if the alternator is bad? I understand they share the same line but wouldn't I get alternator codes if alternator was bad?

Is there a way to test the distributor block? and how would you really test the alternator ?

[SouthernE90]

Originally Posted by WilliamFrear831

I did the regulator in my alternator and codes are now gone!!!

Hey man, just curious. Are the codes still gone or did they pop back up? I'm in the exact same boat as you, new pump and thermostat and the stupid 2E83 & 85 wont go away. Actually they went away for about 150 miles after replacing the pump and thermostat, but now come back after 15-20 minutes of driving. I've done 98% of the diagnosis I've found on the internet, only one left is the regulator, which I have on order.

[TSilver335i]

Originally Posted by SouthernE90

Hey man, just curious. Are the codes still gone or did they pop back up? I'm in the exact same boat as you, new pump and thermostat and the stupid 2E83 & 85 wont go away. Actually they went away for about 150 miles after replacing the pump and thermostat, but now come back after 15-20 minutes of driving. I've done 98% of the diagnosis I've found on the internet, only one left is the regulator, which I have on order.

If that doesn't sort it. Also check

[SouthernE90]

Originally Posted by TSilver335i

If that doesn't sort it. Also check

Thanks man, I'll check that this afternoon when I get home.

[B005TD3]

Originally Posted by TSilver335i

If that doesn't sort it. Also check

So when I do this. Do I just turn the fan level off to stop the coolant pump or is there a certain method to stop? And do I have to open the reservoir and or the bleed valve or can I just see if the pump kicks on then turn it off? Sorry just started having this same issue and like the majority I've done my alternator, battery, ibs cable and adapter? I was leaning towards the pump itself but gonna try going over all wires and ground before.