[mxchris727]

Hi all,

I had Bilstein B4s and Continental DWS06 tires installed last weekend. When the shop performed the alignment, the spec sheet came back saying that my rear left wheel has -2.4 degrees of camber while the rear right wheel has -2.1. They told me that the camber maxed out when they brought the toe into specification. Does this mean that my camber arm is bent? Or, did they not touch the camber bolt? I have time to bring it back for a re-alignment for free. The car is a 2007 BMW 335i convertible with the sport package and 18" wheels. Everything is stock (except shocks) with 90K miles. None of the bushings or ball joints are worn. My old rear tires were worn down to the bead in the inside edge, so I would like them to minimize the camber as much as possible considering that it's a highway car.


Any opinions?

Thank you,
Chris

[PrematureApex]

Not enough of a variation to think anything is bent, imho. Some side to side variation is normal.

When they said it's maxed out, you sure they didn't mean maxed out negative on both sides?

You can take a peak at the camber arm eccentric bolt to see if it's max negative or max positive, but my thought is it's max negative.

Isn't the factory spec like -1.8 - -2?

I'm almost certain think your inner rear tire wear was due to a toe issue, rather than an extra 1/2 degree of negative camber.

[mxchris727]

I have attached the printout:



It looks like the toe is even more extreme than before..
I can replace the camber arm if necessary, but it seems that there is just an adjustment issue.

Any input?

Here is what the tire looked like:

[PrematureApex]

That was the total toe out in the rear that killed your tires (coupled with a rather normal amount of negative camber) . Absolutely not the camber alone. Now you're running a bit of toe in, which you want. You should not expect to see that wear again.

Toe kills tires, not camber. You're only .3 degrees off on the one side, that's nothing. Don't sweat it.

But to your original post, as they brought the toe on the left rear into spec, the camber moved further out. Which isn't a big deal, but an indication that something is a bit off left rear.

[mxchris727]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

That was the total toe out in the rear that killed your tires (coupled with a rather normal amount of negative camber) . Absolutely not the camber alone. Now you're running a bit of toe in, which you want. You should not expect to see that wear again.

Toe kills tires, not camber. You're only .3 degrees off on the one side, that's nothing. Don't sweat it.

But to your original post, as they brought the toe on the left rear into spec, the camber moved further out. Which isn't a big deal, but an indication that something is a bit off left rear.

Okay, thank you. I am going to have the re-align it as it. If they fail to bring it in again, I'll purchase a new camber arm.


And quick question: If the total toe was set closer to 0, wouldn't there be less wear? I know that it improves handling.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by mxchris727

Okay, thank you. I am going to have the re-align it as it. If they fail to bring it in again, I'll purchase a new camber arm.


And quick question: If the total toe was set closer to 0, wouldn't there be less wear? I know that it improves handling.

Don't assume the camber arm is the problem.

Again, no need to have them realign it. Everything important is in spec, and the little bit of added camber on the right won't hurt anything.

And if you were going to realign it, attempt to find a bent control arm, toe arm, etc. back there first and replace it.

Keep the toe where it is. Not many guys ever run zero toe on the street, and with all the dynamic toe change in there cars, that very well may leave you with a bit of toe out a lot of the time, which is what killed your tires in the first place.

Again, toe in is correct, it was the total toe out that killed your tires last time.

[vooheese]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Don't assume the camber arm is the problem.

Again, no need to have them realign it. Everything important is in spec, and the little bit of added camber on the right won't hurt anything.

And if you were going to realign it, attempt to find a bent control arm, toe arm, etc. back there first and replace it.

Keep the toe where it is. Not many guys ever run zero toe on the street, and with all the dynamic toe change in there cars, that very well may leave you with a bit of toe out a lot of the time, which is what killed your tires in the first place.

Again, toe in is correct, it was the total toe out that killed your tires last time.

Hi there, I have a BMW F20, 5 doors hatchback. My rear left camber cannot reach the spec. The spec is -1.8 I can max to only -1.5. Currently, I feel the rear is loose and the entire car is not tight.

My mechanic told me the camber arm (which is a very huge one) or other arm and links in the rear could bent.

My question is how can I inspect the bent arm and links? Visual check seems not possible because the bent should be minor.

And if the rear camber is bigger than the spec from BMW, would be the car feel loose. Sometimes I feel the steering wheel is not linear rotation when I am changing the lane, the car seems sliding to another lane and the steering wheel will jump from one position to another.