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      01-28-2023, 04:19 PM   #1
zellamay
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Engine turns, won't start

2006 330i I found a blown fuse: ignition fuse in that block of 5 fuses in the engine bay, passenger side. Replaced it, blew again.
Here are the INPA codes:
10880 2A80 intrake VAMOS control
10885 2A85 outlet VANOS control
10906 2A9A camshaft shaft sensor intake signal
12021 2EF5 radiatore thermostat control
11909 2E85 water pump communication

I am thinking that it's a short somewhere, but how do I find it?
Any clues, common problems that cause this?
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      01-28-2023, 06:37 PM   #2
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
2006 330i I found a blown fuse: ignition fuse in that block of 5 fuses in the engine bay, passenger side. Replaced it, blew again.
Here are the INPA codes:
10880 2A80 intrake VAMOS control
10885 2A85 outlet VANOS control
10906 2A9A camshaft shaft sensor intake signal
12021 2EF5 radiatore thermostat control
11909 2E85 water pump communication
I am thinking that it's a short somewhere, but how do I find it?
Any clues, common problems that cause this?
FIRST, we need to know which fuse of the 5 on that Fuse Carrier in the E-box is the one that has blown. You do NOT need to buy several dozen fuses to fix this. What you NEED is a multimeter, $7 HFT/ $12 Amazon.

Given the things you show fault codes for, my SWAG is that the fuse that keeps blowing is F02 (NOT related to Ignition Coils, except it becomes powered by DME Main Relay when Ignition turned on, and it blows), which powers the VANOS Solenoids, Cam Sensors, T-Stat & Water Pump Control. Someone on this Forum or on B-Fest had similar issue in last month, and his was caused by bad wiring (short-to-ground) at T-Stat. I would start with any of those components recently worked on/near, if applicable.

You can just test for resistance (Ohms) at the EMPTY fuse socket. You don't even need (want) to have ignition ON.

If you will confirm that the fuse that has blown is F02 (should be numbering on 5-fuse carrier), I will provide ISTA wiring diagram and specific test instructions.
George
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      01-28-2023, 06:44 PM   #3
gbalthrop
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Attached is ISTA SSP wiring diagram for DME Supply, fuses powered when DME Main Relay is activated, with
Location diagram for Fuse Carrier in E-Box, for 2006 330i N52, US Model.
George
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      01-29-2023, 02:23 PM   #4
zellamay
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The blown fuze is the 2nd from the right, if viewed with the words right-side-up. I couldn't find anything that said "F02" or "2". I have a good multi-tester. There is zero resistance between that empty fuze socket and ground. None of those components has been worked on in the 2 yrs we have owned the car. ... So, how do I find the short? I'm wondering about pulling the plug at each component, but I'm not sure how to test. I sure do appreciate any help. thanks, brad
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      01-29-2023, 06:55 PM   #5
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
The blown fuze is the 2nd from the right... I couldn't find anything that said "F02" or "2". I have a good multi-tester. There is zero resistance between that empty fuze socket and ground. None of those components has been worked on in the 2 yrs we have owned the car. ... So, how do I find the short?...brad
Hi Brad,
I would take the time to determine (with NO fuse in socket where fuse blew) if you have Battery Voltage at the other 4 fuses in that carrier when Ignition is ON. F01 through F04 are powered via the DME Main Relay, so we want to make SURE that is working.

Finding the short location is NOT going to be easy but I would Start at the MOST Likely, the Thermostat & Water Pump. While it is possible that there is an internal short in a component, in which case simply disconnecting the component will remove the Short, it is MORE likely that there is a wiring fault, so carefully examine the wires/harness visible in the area of the Connectors, such as T-Stat Connector & Water Pump Connector.

I will attach ISTA wiring diagrams and Connector Views to NEXT Post, so as NOT to destroy margins here. Generally, there are:
1) Six components on the F02 Fuse circuit, and their Connector/Socket#:
a) Coolant Pump: X6035/2, Orange Wire
b) Thermostat: X6279/1, Orange Wire
c) Intake Camshaft Sensor: X6214/3
d) Exhaust Camshaft Sensor: X6224/3
e) Intake VANOS Solenoid: X6275/1
f) Exhaust VANOS Solenoid: X6276/1

EACH has an Orange wire at the Connector & Socket identified above. For example, Coolant Pump Connector. is X6035, and the Orange Wire from F02 is Socket #2 in that connector (X6035/2). There is NO Connector View for T-stat connector X6279, OR for the VANOS Solenoid Connectors. Views of other connectors are attached to NEXT Post, along with Component Location for Sensors & Solenoids.

I also will attach the location of the Splice, X6964. I have NO IDEA if you can easily "open the wrapping" and separate those 6 wires. If you could, THAT would be the way to identify which of the 6 has the short. Never Done the job you are faced with. Hope it's something obvious & easy to access, like Pump/T-Stat Connector.
George
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      01-29-2023, 06:57 PM   #6
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Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints related to F02 Fuse Circuit on 2006 330i, per prior post.
George
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      01-31-2023, 09:27 AM   #7
zellamay
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Thanks

I really appreciate the info. I'm going at this slowly because I had my knee replaced last week. I'll let you know of my progress.
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      01-31-2023, 03:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
I really appreciate the info. I'm going at this slowly because I had my knee replaced last week. I'll let you know of my progress.
Finding a short is difficult with complete mobility. When you can't get under the car to check T-Stat & Pump wiring -- well -- take a few days/ weeks off!

What's the recovery/rehab routine & duration for knee replacement? Perhaps with that information, we can suggest realistic "Next Steps".
Wish you well.
George
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      02-01-2023, 01:39 PM   #9
zellamay
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Knee replacement recovery and diagnosing short.

Day 16: PAIN still keeps me from doing anything for very long. It's hard to bend over the engine bay or get to the ground and up. It's ok with Dr. for me to move around, but not to over eXTend the knee. MEDS: Oxy keeps me dull, lethargic, sleeping a lot, so days go by without progress. Each day is noticably better than last. At 4-6 weeks I'll be far more able than now. ...... We have other cars, but need to get this fixed as soon as I can. .... My plan is to remove that plastic valve cover and look around, not sure after that. Assume short is on one wire, so there ought to be a way to find it with a multimeter. I have to learn when and where power is, and when any go to ground, etc.....
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      02-01-2023, 04:31 PM   #10
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
Day 16: ... It's hard to bend over the engine bay [that definitely causes Extension/ Hyper-Extension of Knee.] or get to the ground and up. It's ok with Dr. for me to move around, but not to over eXTend the knee. MEDS: Oxy keeps me dull, lethargic, sleeping a lot, so days go by without progress. Each day is noticably better than last...
ANYONE ever separated those 6 Orange wires at Splice X6964, so you can test each wire separately for short to ground?

I have NOT done that, (have never even opened my E-box), but it MAY be something you can currently/ soon do to prevent getting down on floor or on knees to examine Pump & T-stat wires at connector. If being on your feet for several hours a day is good therapy, and main goal is to get pain reduction and OFF Oxycodone ASAP, then I would try to identify things you can do consistent with those constraints. Getting down on floor is NOT one of them.

You MAY soon be able to work in the E-box, or if you have NOT already done so, to at least ACCESS the E-Box by removal of Microfilter Housings, without bending over engine and extending the knee.

The car can wait. Proper Recovery & Rehab should be your focus. We'll hopefully still be here when you're recovered. The key to 100% successful Orthopedic surgery is Proper Rehab, and NO sudden Loading or Stress of surgery sites, tendons, cartilage re-attachments etc. I'm NOT familiar with knee replacement or its rehab protocols, but I would assume the SAME principles apply.

I had two Achilles Tendon surgeries (both tendons ruptured at different times), Diskectomy @ L3-L4 & L Shoulder Rotator Cuff repair, and NONE required Opioid such as Oxy. Tylenol #3 for one day at most. Post-surgery Physical Therapy (mostly self-administered) required MONTHS for shoulder and Achilles.

So I've NEVER experienced the PAIN you are enduring, but I have had to avoid post-surgery DAMAGE by sudden or unexpected loading of a joint or muscle/ tendon/ ligament attachments, and I can identify with that part of your recovery. Car: NO. Rehab/ PT: YES.
George
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      02-04-2023, 06:05 PM   #11
zellamay
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Fixed it!

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I found plug 6964 from your picture, I pulled plug 6964 apart, discovered which terminals were hooked to the fuse. (Thanks for instructions on posting pictures.) I then took black wrap off to find the wire on the correct (per my measuring) terminal joined with 6 orange wires! jackpot! (Pic #1 shows the joint. Pic #2 shows it with the plug in the picture.) I cutoff that joint to seperate the 7 wires. I then tested each of the 6 wires for continuity to ground. Found one. (Pic #3 shows the one, separated from the others.) I then pulled plugs on the tstat, cam sensors, etc. and tested each one for continuity to ground. Found one. (on the tstat, but that's irrelevant). So, the short had to be in that wire. i didn't care where. I simply bi-passed it. i cut the wire an inch or two from the tstat plug and added a new black wire, (Pic #4) ran it to the joint to attach to the other (5 + 1) wires. (Pic #5. The wire I added is black, joined to the large orange wire that you can see goes into plug 6964 and the 5 small orange wires that go into the bundle headed towards the engine). Engine started and seems fine. I didn't even clear codes yet. Re-assembly is tomorrow. I can't thank you enough. Could not have done it without your help. (The knee is now pretty sore and tired, but that's fine with me. I'm pretty happy right now. ..... And yes, the Oxy makes it harder to think clearly. I went slowly and double-checked to make sure I wasn't doing anything damaging.)



.
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Last edited by zellamay; 02-05-2023 at 08:39 AM.. Reason: add pics
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      02-04-2023, 11:42 PM   #12
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
I found plug 6964 from your picture, discovered which terminals were hooked to the fuse. (I have pictures, but don't know how to put them here.) I then took black wrap off to find the wire on the correct (per my measuring) terminal joined with 6 orange wires! jackpot! I cutoff that joint to seperate the 7 wires. I then tested each of the 6 wires for continuity to ground. Found one. I then pulled plugs on the tstat, cam sensors, etc. and tested each one for continuity to ground. Found one. (on the tstat, but that's irrelevant). So, the short had to be in that wire. i didn't care where. I simply bi-passed it. i cut the wire an inch or two from the tstat plug and added a new wire, ran it to the joint to attach to the other (5 + 1) wires. Engine started and seems fine. I didn't even clear codes yet. Re-assembly is tomorrow. I can't thank you enough. Could not have done it without your help. (The knee is now pretty sore and tired, but that's fine with me. I'm pretty happy right now.)
You must be HELL when you're NOT looped on Oxycodone.
GREAT JOB!

We could learn a lot from your pics. You can attach jpg or png format image files to a post here. Just click the Red [+] on top row of Icons (says "Attachments" if you hover the cursor on icon). Then Click "Choose Files". A Windows Explorer Window opens and you navigate to the folder containing files to attach. You can select one file at a time, or multiple files. For each selection, or group, click "Upload".

Thanks again, and Be Well!
George
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      02-05-2023, 12:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
2006 330i I found a blown fuse: ignition fuse in that block of 5 fuses in the engine bay, passenger side. Replaced it, blew again.
Here are the INPA codes:
10880 2A80 intrake VAMOS control
10885 2A85 outlet VANOS control
10906 2A9A camshaft shaft sensor intake signal
12021 2EF5 radiatore thermostat control
11909 2E85 water pump communication

I am thinking that it's a short somewhere, but how do I find it?
Any clues, common problems that cause this?
Based on the information provided, it sounds like the blown fuse is likely the result of an electrical issue in the engine bay. The codes you listed from INPA (a BMW diagnostic tool) also suggest that there may be issues with the Vanos system and the camshaft sensor, which can contribute to electrical problems.

To find the short, a systematic approach is recommended. Start by visually inspecting all the wiring in the engine bay and look for any signs of damage or fraying. Check all the connections, especially the ones related to the systems mentioned in the INPA codes, to make sure they are secure. If the issue persists, you may need to use a multi-meter to test the circuit and pinpoint the exact location of the short.
<a href="https://mybankinginformation.com/apply-for-scholarship/"></a>
Common problems that can cause this issue include damaged or corroded wiring, a failed component that is drawing too much current, or a malfunctioning sensor. I would recommend consulting a professional mechanic or dealership service center for a more thorough diagnosis and repair.
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      02-06-2023, 08:51 AM   #14
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Fixed ? Not quite....

The car starts fine, but I still have a problem. What in the heck is a "jalouise" ? I got a code (that did not show up until after I put it all back together), looks like the others, but it says "Nr 12045 2FOD cooler jalouise, control, (GLF) . Also, the radiator fan runs on full speed only, no way to shut it off. One thread said this is a sign that there is a problem with the jalouise.
I just started researching, but have not yet found out what or where this thing is.
One thread said to look inside the grills, but I don't see anything there.
Another thread said that many E90s didn't have one, so it seems mine doesn't.

So, what would I do if I'm getting a code for something that is not there?
So, if anybody knows about this, I'd appreciate any info.

I'm also getting a code for the coolant temp sensor, but I think it's just a poor connection at the sensor.

Last edited by zellamay; 02-06-2023 at 09:14 AM..
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      02-06-2023, 08:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
The car starts fine, but I still have a problem. What in the heck is a "jalouise" ? I got a code like the others, but it says "Nr 12045 2FOD cooler jalouise, control, (GLF) . Also, the radiator fan runs on full speed only, no way to shut it off. One thread said this is a sign that there is a problem with the jalouise.
I just started researching, but have not yet found out what or where this thing is.
One thread said to look inside the grills, but I don't see anything there.
Another thread said that many E90s didn't have one, so it seems mine doesn't.

So, what would I do if I'm getting a code for something that is not there?
So, if anybody knows about this, I'd appreciate any info.

I'm also getting a code for the coolant temp sensor, but I think it's just a poor connection at the sensor.

2F0D is a ghost code for radiator blinds (triggered <100 times). My 06 330xi has it all the time, these cars do not have radiator blinds from the factory. My guess is the fan is running at full speed because of the code for coolant temp sensor.
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      02-06-2023, 09:17 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suvorovo View Post
2F0D is a ghost code for radiator blinds (triggered <100 times). My 06 330xi has it all the time, these cars do not have radiator blinds from the factory. My guess is the fan is running at full speed because of the code for coolant temp sensor.
Thanks, that's a relief to hear. I'd like to be done with this....
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      02-06-2023, 06:51 PM   #17
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Now it is fixed, but I have another problem...

I was wrong about the tstat wire. It was actually the temp sensor wire. I had cut it as part of my "fix", so then my temp sensor code came up. I re-connected and fixed that problem. Also, Suvorovo was right: the fan works properly now. ...... Problem: I now have a code "2E85 water pump communication", so I'm thinking that was the orange wire I cut at plug 6964. From what I read, it's only to tell you if/when the water pump is failing. If so, it's not a necessary connection? I can drive the car and fix it when my knee is better. It will involve lifting the car. So... am i right in saying I can drive the car without that connection?
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