[Torgus]

RB or Pure

VTT is Shit

Or bite the bullet and just go single now. Cost of turbos + FBO is about the same as a single and inherently 2x as reliable.

[631twentyeighteye]

It seems like 90% of people going single turbo are 6466 or relatively "bigger" turbo guys going for big power.

I wanna see what single turbo guys are running in the 400-500whp ballpark. With the way of modern turbos I can't see why you cant run a single turbo that performs the same or better than the stock twins while vastly simplifying things in the process. Though id personally go for something that looses a little spool in the bottom end and gains power that pulls all the way to red line.

A Borgwarner 7163, or something along those lines is what i'm imagining but i'd like to hear some real world experience.

[neilvan]

I had a set of RB oem replacements; ~20k (km) are on those and those have been taken out to swap to another N54 of mine.

Just put in a set of RB Ones, just as happy although only 1-2k on those now.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

It seems like 90% of people going single turbo are 6466 or relatively "bigger" turbo guys going for big power.

I wanna see what single turbo guys are running in the 400-500whp ballpark. With the way of modern turbos I can't see why you cant run a single turbo that performs the same or better than the stock twins while vastly simplifying things in the process. Though id personally go for something that looses a little spool in the bottom end and gains power that pulls all the way to red line.

A Borgwarner 7163, or something along those lines is what i'm imagining but i'd like to hear some real world experience.

A small single still won't have the same low down torque as a twin, it'll probably be close though, but then you'll loose top end power, is it even worth going for 400-500hp single over a twin equivalent power?

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

It seems like 90% of people going single turbo are 6466 or relatively "bigger" turbo guys going for big power.

I wanna see what single turbo guys are running in the 400-500whp ballpark. With the way of modern turbos I can't see why you cant run a single turbo that performs the same or better than the stock twins while vastly simplifying things in the process. Though id personally go for something that looses a little spool in the bottom end and gains power that pulls all the way to red line.

A Borgwarner 7163, or something along those lines is what i'm imagining but i'd like to hear some real world experience.

I doubt you will find anyone who has because why spend 4-5k for a single kit to make 500whp when you can do that with china twins for $1400 bucks and they will pull to redline and make 500whp and have much more low end tq. If one fails it is cheap to replace, granted the labor is not.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by Torgus

I doubt you will find anyone who has because why spend 4-5k for a single kit to make 500whp when you can do that with china twins for $1400 bucks and they will pull to redline and make 500whp and have much more low end tq. If one fails it is cheap to replace, granted the labor is not.

Installed my Chinese Choo Choo's for $900 all-in.

I've heard people contemplating conservative single turbo options, but ultimately I think they change their minds due to the thought process you just described.

[iqraceworks]

I just picked up my new RB TWO's from Rob last weekend. He's great to work with, and he knows his stuff.

On an E40 mix, they should be able to hit 500-ish hp at the rear tires with mild boost levels (20-22psi)...... according to what the tuner I'm going to use is telling me. If I wanted to go full e85 with a PI setup, 600hp is doable.....but 500hp is more than enough for a sporty ride. When you start talking 600+HP....now you are talking built transmissions, new axles, slicks/drag radials...it can get way out of hand in a hurry.

Can't wait to get them on and test them out!

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by neilvan

I had a set of RB oem replacements; ~20k (km) are on those and those have been taken out to swap to another N54 of mine.

Just put in a set of RB Ones, just as happy although only 1-2k on those now.

How do you compare the Billets vs. the Ones since you've driven on both now?

[neilvan]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

How do you compare the Billets vs. the Ones since you've driven on both now?

I had the cast oem replacements not technically the billets.

The ones are faster for sure; Absolutely a bigger kick in the pants when boost hits. The spool is a few hundred rpm later which is actually preferable. It makes a 500HP car around town a little easier to drive(its still makes full boost real low).

I have FBO+inlets/outlets for both. The inlets/outlets held boost higher up in the RPM compared to the stocks but the Ones are more consistent as well. That being said I'm still being easy on them as they're fairly new. Its not a HUGE jump but just a slightly bigger turbo so ya ~50/60hp jump compared seems accurate; Both were run at 15psi on 91oct

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by neilvan

I had a set of RB oem replacements; ~20k (km) are on those and those have been taken out to swap to another N54 of mine.

Just put in a set of RB Ones, just as happy although only 1-2k on those now.

This exactly what I wanted to hear about. Thank you for the response!

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I just picked up my new RB TWO's from Rob last weekend. He's great to work with, and he knows his stuff.

On an E40 mix, they should be able to hit 500-ish hp at the rear tires with mild boost levels (20-22psi)...... according to what the tuner I'm going to use is telling me. If I wanted to go full e85 with a PI setup, 600hp is doable.....but 500hp is more than enough for a sporty ride. When you start talking 600+HP....now you are talking built transmissions, new axles, slicks/drag radials...it can get way out of hand in a hurry.

Can't wait to get them on and test them out!

About how long did it take to get them? Got an email back from Rob yesterday saying they're backlogged about 20 units (down from 35) and it would likely be 20-30 days for a set.

I may end up pushing replacement back a bit (if I can) 1. because 20-30days puts me installing in August (which is fine, just cutting it very close to my return to school) and 2. an OEM alpine white M sport rear just went up for sale nearby and they're asking much, much less than a new bumper + paint and I'm not sure I can pass it up, my rear needs a repaint anyway and it's not even M Sport.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

About how long did it take to get them? Got an email back from Rob yesterday saying they're backlogged about 20 units (down from 35) and it would likely be 20-30 days for a set.

I may end up pushing replacement back a bit (if I can) 1. because 20-30days puts me installing in August (which is fine, just cutting it very close to my return to school) and 2. an OEM alpine white M sport rear just went up for sale nearby and they're asking much, much less than a new bumper + paint and I'm not sure I can pass it up, my rear needs a repaint anyway and it's not even M Sport.

You will be happy with the RBs if you go that route.

Twins seem to be the best solution 600 whp or lower. Once you get above a ST seems to be the better solution in my opinion. Not that we have not seen twins make more, it is just you are really pushing them hard in most cases.

[whyzee125]

RB has been in the business almost as long as this platform has been around. Many other turbo companies have come and gone and RB is still there and doing well.

I would not consider any options besides Pure, RB, and VTT. That being said, when it's time for me to get new turbos, I'll be going with RB.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by Torgus

You will be happy with the RBs if you go that route.

Twins seem to be the best solution 600 whp or lower. Once you get above a ST seems to be the better solution in my opinion. Not that we have not seen twins make more, it is just you are really pushing them hard in most cases.

Yeah i've pretty much decided on RBs, atm it's just between figuring out when I can find the time to do them, since I plan in doing all new lines, rod bearings, motor mounts, and probably warrantying my WP/Thermo while i'm in there, it will likely take me awhile. This will be my first time dropping the subframe (not that i'm worried, I'm very confident there is only a few jobs, if that, I can't do on this car). Anyone have anything else to add to the list?

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

RB has been in the business almost as long as this platform has been around. Many other turbo companies have come and gone and RB is still there and doing well.

I would not consider any options besides Pure, RB, and VTT. That being said, when it's time for me to get new turbos, I'll be going with RB.

This is interesting. I have no first-hand experience with any of the three companies you mentioned, but this is what I've gathered. Pure is highly regarded by most everyone. I haven't heard any negatives about them except their prices. VTT seems to have an equal number of lovers and haters (or maybe I see more hate than love). And RB gets the most attention and clearly seems to be the most popular, but some seem to take issue with Rob himself. I'm just curious why you included VTT in your list.

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by stewbets

This is interesting. I have no first-hand experience with any of the three companies you mentioned, but this is what I've gathered. Pure is highly regarded by most everyone. I haven't heard any negatives about them except their prices. VTT seems to have an equal number of lovers and haters (or maybe I see more hate than love). And RB gets the most attention and clearly seems to be the most popular, but some seem to take issue with Rob himself. I'm just curious why you included VTT in your list.

I included VTT because it's a popular option that's been around a while and has a decent reputation albeit a little controversial. There have been lots of companies like Hexon, Frankenturbo, etc. that rose and fell quickly and I know Vargas isn't as bad as they are because they're still around and they've innovated a few products like the double shotgun HPFP.

Tony of Vargas is apparently not pleasant to deal with at all but he's hired a new guy for customer service so I think the customers he's had since then have been more happy. His turbos are decent from what I know.

Pure is excellent and they make stuff for all sorts of platforms but they're pricy.

RB is also top notch but only makes turbos for this platform. I've heard a few people not like Rob but the vast majority seem to think he's great. Excellent prices too.

[Tyc0]

Don't mean to change the topic but unless you are super high miles I would probably leave the rods alone. I did this same thing and had to get a new motor because I messed something up, but that's my fault. I've seen a few cases where people say installing new bearings can cause more bad than good. I actually spoke with someone who designed this engine and he told me to leave them unless I have a reason to believe the rods are nearing the end of their life.

But, if you do do it, make sure to be very careful with the baffling bolts, they require something like 5 foot lbs and are very easy to break. Also would recommend one of those fancy torque wrenches that can read angle being the rod cap bolts require 180° torque spec. And of course plasti gauge, even two times to ensure correct reading. Good luck !

[drewds]

My RB GF's arrived about a week ago, can't wait to get them on which will likely be this coming week, along with a whole ton of other stuff and preventative maintenance items.

Rob was super helpful through the whole order process and responsive to any questions, etc. No BS at all, and I went for the wire option to save a few bucks.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Don't mean to change the topic but unless you are super high miles I would probably leave the rods alone. I did this same thing and had to get a new motor because I messed something up, but that's my fault. I've seen a few cases where people say installing new bearings can cause more bad than good. I actually spoke with someone who designed this engine and he told me to leave them unless I have a reason to believe the rods are nearing the end of their life.

But, if you do do it, make sure to be very careful with the baffling bolts, they require something like 5 foot lbs and are very easy to break. Also would recommend one of those fancy torque wrenches that can read angle being the rod cap bolts require 180° torque spec. And of course plasti gauge, even two times to ensure correct reading. Good luck !

If I may ask, do you know what caused your failure? I've spoken with several who've done the rod bearings successfully, one of which I know is over 220k and still does track days. I would plasti-gage twice but i'd rather not have to order 2 sets of rod bolts, I'm not going to re-torque the factory bolts twice. Once is enough for me, im still really not sure how changing them could lead to failure assuming everything else was okay and nothing out of round. I plan on also following a "break in" procedure of changing the oil after first startup, and running stock tune for the first 800-1000 miles, then changing the oil again.

[Tyc0]

Oh like I said my failure was dumb, I put a cap on backwards

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Oh like I said my failure was dumb, I put a cap on backwards

Oh I see, yeah, that'll do it. I learned recently that apparently our rods are created as one piece and then split, which is apparently why it's so necessary to line them up. Sorry to hear about that though, I can only imagine how you felt.

[Dave92N54]

Quick update:

Spoke with Rob today, due to some new budget restrictions, I'll be ordering a set of RB OEM replacements (sadly not billets), inlets, and install kit. I had planned on ordering outlets too but after speaking with Rob, he just told me to save my money (basically said they're not worth it under 500hp).

For anyone curious, after core returns and wire transfer, comes out to about $1300.

I've said it once and i'll likely say it a million more times, im a firm believer in preventive maintenance. I've been getting my FCP cart ready for things i'll need. I have motor mounts (no brainer), new waterpump/t-stat (on warranty), and coolant hose o-rings. After some deliberation i'm somewhat on the fence about two things. Keep in mind i'm trying to keep overall price down.

Number one is rod bearings. I'd love to do them, especially with my car's history of oil that smells like fuel (oil analysis confirmed that there was barely any though). I'd love to hear from anyone who's done them with success.

Second item is feed/drain lines. I'm at ~132k, and i'm sure the lines are original. Those who've replaced their twins, did you replace all the feed/drain lines? I'm wondering if replacing the oil lines but re-using the coolant lines will be my best bet? Or should I just attempt to re-use them all?