[BlueM3Wagon]

Ok so I have the ESS kit installed, no thanks to the terribly appointed "parts for N52" and instructions. I've had some issues post install. I drove 50 miles after I set up the tune from Bob at Stage FB, didn't notice any issues but kinda babies it because i had yet to install the S65 injectors and was running on the 120mm pulley. While on my way back from the airport I heard a pop and car when into limp mode. Here are the codes thrown.

BMW Trouble Code list
//
// ECU Type : Siemens DME MSV80
// Vehicle Manufacturer Ecu Hardware Number : 7629052
// Vehicle Manufacturer Ecu Software Number : 7637693
// Hardware Reference Number : 0049QK0MK80SMGN4S
// Vehicle Identification Number : WBAUU3C50CA543598
// Ecu Manufacturing Date : 20.02.2012
//
// 1) 2D29 differential pressure sensor, suction pipe: plausibility
// 2) 29E1 fuel mixture control 2
// 3) 29E0 fuel mixture control
// 4) 2D59 DME digital motor electronics, internal failure: control actual torque ?

Since then, I checked MAF against a new MAF, pulled the MAP, looked ok. Checked boost tube on SC and TB, retightened. Also pulled the PCV hose from inlet to PCV to check and make sure there were no leaks or holes, totally fine.

I'm kinda at a lost. I did read a thread here

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1300719

Symptoms seem identical. Wild hunting for rpm under 1,000 and a lot of hesitation/stalling while cruising. He said AJ from ESS discovered bad TB, while his was N51 and did not use it in the tune, the n52 does could this be a possible issue? I'm not sure what else to check or if I need to have someone diagnose who would be competent with this ESS kit, dealer, indie? Maybe I'll see if ESS has a network of Partners.

Maybe I can try and rewire the MAF extension? I soldered and heat wrapped but I also used small wire. Not sure if the wire is causing electrical issues?

I've never cleaned my vanos. Could that be an issue?

[Biginboca]

My completely uneducated guess is you have a boost leak somewhere. Those mixture codes tell me your car is metering incoming air and then the o2 sensors are seeing a exiting mixture that doesn’t match up with what it thinks should be going into the engine.

And “Pop” sounds like a charge pipe coming off or loose.

Should be an easy fix. Sorry to hear about all the issues. The lack of good support for the supercharger is a huge disappointment on this platform. For e46 you just buy a kit and it comes with a tune and all set. For us it’s buy the kit, add parts to make the install oem standards, find a tuner cause the tune it comes with stinks. Then pray you don’t have issues cause you are dealing with multiple companies.

[BlueM3Wagon]

I'm so frustrated. Got MAF cleanse, electronics cleaner, cleaned MAF pins and MAF as well as Vanos which was already clean. Retightened boost tube on TB thinking that was the only place it could be. Cleared codes and adaptation and car is worst than before. I couldn't even drive it. Video below.

What am I missing? What other vacuum leaks could I have if the PCV and boost is tight as shit? I haven't checked the purge valve underneath the throttle body but that isn't under vacuum right?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

I'm so frustrated. Got MAF cleanse, electronics cleaner, cleaned MAF pins and MAF as well as Vanos which was already clean. Retightened boost tube on TB thinking that was the only place it could be. Cleared codes and adaptation and car is worst than before. I couldn't even drive it. Video below.

What am I missing? What other vacuum leaks could I have if the PCV and boost is tight as shit? I haven't checked the purge valve underneath the throttle body but that isn't under vacuum right?

That fuel tank purge valve only opens under very specific conditions, needs to be at certain temp (100C I think) and engine at idle, so it only opens at like a red light after you have fully warmed up. And it throws a code when it malfunctions too.

I would focus on whatever could have made that pop noise. Did a line burst or a fitting come off somewhere. That seems like a huge clue to me.

Maybe have a look around your manifold connections to the head. Also try spraying some carb cleaner around every intake connection on the air path from the airbox all the way to the manifold runners connections to the head. (Manifold, throttle body, intake pipes, maf, pressure sensor on manifold, etc.)

The carb cleaner worked for me in finding manifold leaks.

[BlueM3Wagon]

Btw, i tried to tell ESS the boost tube is too short. Their recommendations is to attach to TB , dismount SC from bracket, attach tube to SC, and then reattach to bracket. This hose is 1/2" too short, no ifs, and, buts about it. I know they have a longer hose post V1 version because I've read a few threads about it but when I asked them they said they aren't aware of any longer hoses.

I'm retaking the the entire SC out now and reinstalling. If still idling like shit I'll grab carb cleaner

[BlueM3Wagon]

And after retightening... fml and ESS

[E7J3F3]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

And after retightening... fml and ESS

Yeah that'll do it. Good you've got it tracked down. Might need to fab a new hose that fits.

[BlueM3Wagon]

Originally Posted by E7J3F3

Yeah that'll do it. Good you've got it tracked down. Might need to fab a new hose that fits.

My guess is that it was gapped underneath but I couldn't feel it when it was connected. The problem is that i can man handle the boost tube with one hand and tighten with the other but the clamps bust loose every time I get them tight. Maybe there is a heavy duty clamp that will tighten enough to secure? Even so, I'd really prefer a boost tube that fits without needing to bend that much to fit. If ESS refuses to help (I even offered to pay some if they could provide a discount) than maybe I can cut the tube, insert metal piece to extend 1/2" and tighten both ends of the cut with clamps.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

My guess is that it was gapped underneath but I couldn't feel it when it was connected. The problem is that i can man handle the boost tube with one hand and tighten with the other but the clamps bust loose every time I get them tight. Maybe there is a heavy duty clamp that will tighten enough to secure? Even so, I'd really prefer a boost tube that fits without needing to bend that much to fit. If ESS refuses to help (I even offered to pay some if they could provide a discount) than maybe I can cut the tube, insert metal piece to extend 1/2" and tighten both ends of the cut with clamps.

Cut and extend with metal tube will 100% work. I had to do that to make my n54 manifold line up with the airbox.

There’s all the tubing, clamps, and fittings you could ever need on Amazon btw

[BlueM3Wagon]

Update: AJ at ESS replied in email and said he'd be shipping one out to me this week, very much appreciated! I might try to hack the tube in half and extend with metal coupler just so I can drive this week. I'll keep everyone updated.

[BlueM3Wagon]

The problem with the charge pipe/ boost tube and cutting into it, is that there's no straight sections to install a pipe to extend beyond 1/2". So I found some T bolt clamps from my old Mazdaspeed 6 Big turbo set up and installed on the SC side. I secured that first and manipulated the TB side and tightened. I order a 3.75" T bolt clamp for the TB side, that should be enough force to secure it better. I'll compare the replacement pipe ESS sends and see if it's longer or smaller ID on the TB side. I think that's another issues, it's too large on that side. I sprayed starter fluid around hoses and no increased idle, idle stable as well and while cruising. I'll granny it till the TB clamp comes in tomorrow and finally get a WOT pull done. Glad I finally figured out the issue. Feeling hopeful.

I'm going to take a couple months before I tackle the Meth kit. This took a lot out of me, but Bob is working on the e85 tune as we speak so that should help slightly with cooling. P3 Gauges is local to me and are super nice guys. They are going to install their BMW vent gauge next week for me so I can monitor information.

[BlueM3Wagon]

So I got both t bolt clamps secured on SC and TB, sprayed start fluid, no raised idle. Took it for a test drive around town, idle stable but when I gave it gas it was delayed and then jumped into it hard. Came back, sprayed starter fluid again and visible looked, seemed ok. Took it on the highway and no pop sound but limp mode. Diagnostic below. After limp mode car stumbled at every light and around 2k rpm.

I'm at a loss. I think I might check and replace MAF connector, not MAF. I read a few people that had similar issues (not SC related) that caused these types of issues and codes. More codes now, the code for DMTL is related to the Evap canister I mounted like N54. I have all new lines right now that I have to replace because the modifications I made to the N52 lines leak.

//
// ECU Type : Siemens DME MSV80
// Vehicle Manufacturer Ecu Hardware Number : 7629052
// Vehicle Manufacturer Ecu Software Number : 7637693
// Hardware Reference Number : 0049QK0MK80SMGN4S
// Vehicle Identification Number : WBAUU3C50CA543598
// Ecu Manufacturing Date : 20.02.2012
//
// 1) 2D29 differential pressure sensor, suction pipe: plausibility
// 2) 29E1 fuel mixture control 2
// 3) 29E0 fuel mixture control
// 4) 29DC Cyl. injection switch-off
// 5) 2A15 DMTL diagnosis module tank leakage, fine leakage
// 6) 2C39 PreCat 02 sensor dynamics, Bank 1
// 7) 2C3A PreCat 02 sensor dynamics, Bank 2
// 8) 29CF Misfire, Cyl. 3
// 9) 29CE Misfire, Cyl. 2
// 10) 29D0 Misfire, Cyl. 4
// 11) 29D2 Misfire, Cyl. 6
// 12) 2F08 inlet air temperature sensor, signal
// 13) 2D59 DME digital motor electronics, internal failure: control actual torque ?
// 14) 2ADF idle running control, speed
// 15) 2D06 air mass system

[BlueM3Wagon]

Well holy shit. Got the new boost tube from ESS. ID on the TB side from the original was 3.5", new one was 3.25". The T bolt clamp I was using bottomed out before it was ever even tight, so i thew on a smaller one. Not only that, the tube fit like a glove on both the SC side and TB side. No force needed to secure on either. I'm letting the silicone dry around the Intake before I fire it up and test but crossing my fingers this is it!!

[Kubricks]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

Well holy shit. Got the new boost tube from ESS. ID on the TB side from the original was 3.5", new one was 3.25". The T bolt clamp I was using bottomed out before it was ever even tight, so i thew on a smaller one. Not only that, the tube fit like a glove on both the SC side and TB side. No force needed to secure on either. I'm letting the silicone dry around the Intake before I fire it up and test but crossing my fingers this is it!!

Hope it work out for you in the end.

Pro-tip: once you heat up the engine, re-tighten clamp to the tube on both ends as they suffer from thermal expansion.

[CRE]

Wish I had seen this sooner. I've had their new G1 kit running on my 3.0si Z4 for a month or a bit more... Maybe two months. I'm glad you got it sorted out. Mating the charger pipe to the throttle body on my car was a royal pain due to the neck being so damn short.

[BlueM3Wagon]

Originally Posted by CRE

Wish I had seen this sooner. I've had their new G1 kit running on my 3.0si Z4 for a month or a bit more... Maybe two months. I'm glad you got it sorted out. Mating the charger pipe to the throttle body on my car was a royal pain due to the neck being so damn short.

I honestly couldn't believe how well the new pipe fit.

Just another update, I still had some issues with the AFR after the install. From the logs there was some issues with open and closed loop fueling. Bob had me reset adaptation and I changed my plugs. Car pulls well with no hesitations or rpm issues while cruising or WOT but does have a little issues idle hunting when stationary. Going to see about sorting that out with tuning. I'll keep everyone posted until it's good to go!

[CRE]

My issue wasn't the charge pipe/tube being too short. On the N52 the flange on the throttle body is only around 10cm. Getting it to clamp on without being able to pull it back off by hand was quite annoying. Overall though I'm thrilled with the kit and I'm very impressed with how well it is put together.

Looking at the pics you posted it seems the more compact G1 doesn't have much more clearance from the strut tower. That's a shame. I know the 330i intake won't clear with the Vortech, I was hoping that just maybe it would fit with the G1.

I reset all adaptations when I installed mine. I haven't reviewed all of what I've logged, but while keeping an eye on the AFR while driving I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. Are you running rich or lean or all over the place? I'm at a high altitude, running a smaller pulley and 15% E85.

[BlueM3Wagon]

Originally Posted by CRE

My issue wasn't the charge pipe/tube being too short. On the N52 the flange on the throttle body is only around 10cm. Getting it to clamp on without being able to pull it back off by hand was quite annoying. Overall though I'm thrilled with the kit and I'm very impressed with how well it is put together.

Looking at the pics you posted it seems the more compact G1 doesn't have much more clearance from the strut tower. That's a shame. I know the 330i intake won't clear with the Vortech, I was hoping that just maybe it would fit with the G1.

I reset all adaptations when I installed mine. I haven't reviewed all of what I've logged, but while keeping an eye on the AFR while driving I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. Are you running rich or lean or all over the place? I'm at a high altitude, running a smaller pulley and 15% E85.

My AFR continues to be all over the place still, taking it into the shop today. I throw lean and rich codes both. I'll get AFRs in the high 20s while applying throttle and all the way down to 10s when braking sometimes, it's bizarre. I threw new O2 sensor heat circuit code yesterday that's never popped up. I assume it has to be some sort of electrical issue. I'm just going to bring all the parts I've accumulated or had laying around they can throw at it if they suspect an issue. I have both O2 sensors, new MAF pins, grommets, housing and wire, larger fuel pump and MAF. I'm sure they'll start by doing a smoke test and rule out any leaks like in the crank seal, PCV, etc.

Hope to have a fix soon!

I can email logs and faults if anyone is interested in seeing.

[CRE]

Yeah, a leak would be the first thing in my mind. I've got a boost leak kit that I built with all my previous turbo builds that I've been meaning to use to make sure I don't have any. It's a simple device. A coupler with a cap on the end and a regulator and air compressor fitting so I can feed the desired boost +5psi to the compressor intake. Then just spray soapy water at all the couplers. That along with a compression test have helped me diagnose many issues.

The severity of the issues you are having is odd. An electrical issue us very likely in my mind. I assume you disconnected the MAF signal line and properly insulated it? I depinned the yellow line, versus cutting it, and shrink wrapped the loose pin with the heat shrink melted and pinched to ensure against the possibility of errant signals.

I'd like to see the logs, what app are you using to log?

[E91xi]

Sorry for the off topic question but what clutched are you guys running in your supercharged N52s?

[CRE]

Originally Posted by E91xi

Sorry for the off topic question but what clutched are you guys running in your supercharged N52s?

I'm running on the stock clutch and flywheel. The power and torque curve are leanear enough and mild enough that there is little concern of a healthy clutch failing. I may, in the future, switch to a lightweight flywheel but a different clutch or pressure plate aren't really needed.

[CRE]

Oh, deleting the CDV is probably essential. If I hadn't deleted that previously I suspect I may be having issues with burning the crap out of my clutch.