[shushikiary]

I have those same tool sets from harbor freight, and I bent them trying to get my stock bushing out, I had no choice but to use a press.

I guess some of them come out easier than others.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

I have those same tool sets from harbor freight, and I bent them trying to get my stock bushing out, I had no choice but to use a press.

I guess some of them come out easier than others.

What tool did you bend? The clamp?

That's a huge chunk of cast iron with an I-Beam cross-section.

What were you using to drive it that had the power to bend it?

But seriously, you sure something wasn't off with your setup? I mean, the bushing wasn't easy to press out and required a bit impact, but it certainly started moving without too much issue.

[shushikiary]

The C clamp stile one, the clamp bent. I was using a lever arm over a breaker bar with the control arm in a vice bolted to a work bench.

So then I tried the bolt through one, on that one, under the same usage as above, the nut started to strip on me and the bolt started to warp off angle, likely because I was using a long lever arm and not an impact wrench. Once I saw the metal shavings from the threads and the slightly bent bolt I called it quits before destroying the tool completely.

From there I had had enough screwing around so I went straight to the press. Its a 20 ton press from harbor freight. Using it, and the nice long lever arm they give you for the bottle jack that operates it, combined with the pressing fittings from the other 2 kits, I got it out. Using the press though, I had to put so much force on that bottle jack lever arm I was scared enough that I stood to the side of the press in case something shot out, and I had to REALLY push on it. I even started to get scared it wouldnt do it, then all of a sudden it went "KA-CHUNK!" and moved about 1/8 of an inch, which gave me hope. From there I built up pressure in the bottle jack again and had to push REALLY HARD on the lever arm and it made another "KA-CHUNK!" and moved another 1/8th of an inch. Repeat that 2 more times and it finally came out. It was REALLY in there.

[PrematureApex]

Yikes. Yeah, it was tight. Large diameter + press fit = not a good time.

Glad you got it done. Mine walked out steadily, maybe over the course of 30 or 45 second on the gun.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

The C clamp stile one, the clamp bent. I was using a lever arm over a breaker bar with the control arm in a vice bolted to a work bench.

So then I tried the bolt through one, on that one, under the same usage as above, the nut started to strip on me and the bolt started to warp off angle, likely because I was using a long lever arm and not an impact wrench. Once I saw the metal shavings from the threads and the slightly bent bolt I called it quits before destroying the tool completely.

From there I had had enough screwing around so I went straight to the press. Its a 20 ton press from harbor freight. Using it, and the nice long lever arm they give you for the bottle jack that operates it, combined with the pressing fittings from the other 2 kits, I got it out. Using the press though, I had to put so much force on that bottle jack lever arm I was scared enough that I stood to the side of the press in case something shot out, and I had to REALLY push on it. I even started to get scared it wouldnt do it, then all of a sudden it went "KA-CHUNK!" and moved about 1/8 of an inch, which gave me hope. From there I built up pressure in the bottle jack again and had to push REALLY HARD on the lever arm and it made another "KA-CHUNK!" and moved another 1/8th of an inch. Repeat that 2 more times and it finally came out. It was REALLY in there.

That is exactly how mine went but with the 12 ton HF press. I was afraid it wouldn't come out and I could feel the bar bending on the jack. I went through a world of shit with HF over shipping incomplete press, so I was thinking, oh no, now I need the 20 ton! Finally it let go but it did same thing several times each side, binding/load up the jack to near breaking/sudden popping. It did fly out the side once and I was already afraid of that happening so I made sure a) I was outside the garage well away from cars/windows, and b) standing well to the side. It really shot out of there and a trip to the ER to remove fittings embedded into my torso was not necessary.

So I guess it may be the case that low mileage newer cars the C-clamp/threaded rod type tools may work. Older cars, higher mileage and rough use probably need the press. I have destroyed cup/threaded-rod type tools on bushings before, plus I live in a remote area up in the mtns far from the nearest HF. So I just bought the press right off the bat after considering exactly the tools pictured above (and reading earlier posts in this thread).

Also FWIW one of my bushings was blown, so I'm not sure the c-clamp thing pressing on the inner metal part would have worked even if it was in not as tight. Might have just ripped right through. My car has ~43k miles, 2009, all above 8k ft ASL in the CO mtns. Very harsh winters, pot holes, + mag chloride.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Also FWIW one of my bushings was blown, so I'm not sure the c-clamp thing pressing on the inner metal part would have worked even if it was in not as tight. Might have just ripped right through. My car has ~43k miles, 2009, all above 8k ft ASL in the CO mtns. Very harsh winters, pot holes, + mag chloride.

Pressing on the inner metal definitely does not work, and rips right through the center. Hard to tell in that pic, but the clamp's rod is pressing on a disc-shaped pusher, almost the exact size of the bushing.

You must push the outer race, for sure.

Tonight I did the hydros on my 2008 135 w/85k miles on it, North East its whole life. Same result. For what it's worth, BMW factory tools for these jobs are of the threaded type, and always have been. I don't think I'm just getting lucky. This is how people press bushings, wheel bearings, ball joints, etc.

[shushikiary]

I wonder if there is some swelling or something at altitude, because I'm in colorado as well (north denver area), when I did it the car had 75k miles on it.

[skier_du]

My car is a 2008 and the factory replacement bushing were only 1.5 years old. I broke 2 threaded rod tools before calling quits and finding a shop with a good press. They tried pressing my bushings in the same direction I was and had a very hard time. They turned it around and the bushing came right out. When they got the bushing out they noticed that the race has a slight lip on one side so the bushing so it can't be pressed through in that direction. So it appears that the bushings can only be pressed in one direction. I'm not sure what direction that is, but this could partially explain why some people have no problem and it's incredibly difficult for others. If someone presses in the wrong direction, that lip on the race will make it impossible to press out without extreme force.

[ajsalida]

I don't think that's true about them being directional, neither of mine had a lip that I could see. Maybe the lip on yours came from previous deformation while pressing so hard, either on install or trying to get it out? Also mine were stuck hard in there from the very beginning, so the edge of the race was nowhere near the edge of the hole in the strut/arm yet.

[pits200]

We talking about the thrust arms? Those are directional, there are arrows point to the correct insert points.

If you aren't talking about them, my apologies.

Ok, just reread, you mean whether it has to go in on one side or the other.

[PhaseP]

You are right they are not directional, just straight cylinder.
It is quite possible they got bent and developed a ridge during pressing to get them out as you wrote. The pictures of BMW tool I have seen has something like a steel belt that goes around the race and hugs it to prevent this from happening. Like this tool:

https://shop.ktcautotools.com/produc...nstaller-tools

I was lucky I was able to remove and install with just a shop press. But thinking about it later, I think a steel hose clamp could be used for similar purpose for removing old one. Hose clamp could damage the new one though. But new one goes in much much easier after cleaning the inside of the control arm hole than the old one coming out.

[PrematureApex]

One side of the arm clearly has a bigger chamfer than the other. No taper in the inner bore, but clearly a side that's easier to get started.

Just did TWO more sets of arms today with simple ball joint clamps/wheel bearing threaded rod presses.

Easy as cake. Nothing even strained.

I refuse to believe you guys used the tools pictured properly and couldn't get it done. Impact wrenches are key I guess.

[PrematureApex]

Just for shits and giggles, I just pressed one out via a cheap 3-Jaw puller. So not even using a beefy ball joint clamp or wheel bearing setup.

Pushed right out on an impact gun. 90k mile car.

http://www.harborfreight.com/three-j...-pc-69105.html

To give you an idea of the weathering, we had to saw-zall the ball joint stem off and replace the arm...so no shortage of rust corrosion. The bushing pressed right out.

I actually think threaded tools work better than small presses in these applications. I have used a bench top HF press on wheel bearings before and completely relate to the slip/catch/slip catch nature of the pressing process. Threaded presses seem to do the job much better, actually....contrary to popular belief.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Just for shits and giggles, I just pressed one out via a cheap 3-Jaw puller. So not even using a beefy ball joint clamp or wheel bearing setup.

Pushed right out on an impact gun. 09 335, 100k miles.

http://www.harborfreight.com/three-j...-pc-69105.html

To give you an idea of the weathering, we had to saw-zall the ball joint stem off and replace the arm...so no shortage of rust corrosion. The bushing pressed right out.

I actually think threaded tools work better than small presses in these applications. I have used a bench top HF press on wheel bearings before and completely relate to the slip/catch/slip catch nature of the pressing process. Threaded presses seem to do the job much better, actually....contrary to popular belief.

Hey guys -

Sorry to revive this thread, but it's sort of on point with the research I was doing last night and this morning. I just replaced shocks, struts, mounts, spring pads, etc.. And, the car was aligned by a shop two days later. I have just a bit of vibration in the front end (wheels were balanced) and the camber on my right front is slightly positive. I had a bent wheel there which the guys as APEX gave me a great deal to replace. So, I'm replacing the front (front) control arms under the theory one may be slightly bent, and since the car has 86K miles. Tie rod ends appear to be OK. And, I had the tension strut (front - rear control arms) replaced by a shop about 30k miles back.

I was thinking about replacing the ball joint on the tension struts separately to see if that further tightens up the front - before i decide on the tension strut and bushing.

So, my simple question.... Is the replacement of that ball joint on the tension strut easy or difficult? Will it just fall out of the knuckle end when unbolted, or do i need to press it out? Based on comments about the BallJoints on the wishbone, I think this should be easy but am curious if I'm looking for a surprise...

More difficult/subjective question, has anyone compared strong flex to any other option for XI tension strut busing? It seems I can order new strut with stock bushing (have my shop press in strong flex or other option). Trying to determine whether strong flex or power flex is the best choice...). It's a shame that I'd need to trash new OEM bushings...I wish someone just did a new tension strut with bushing options, but I guess we a a small market...

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Hey guys -

Sorry to revive this thread, but it's sort of on point with the research I was doing last night and this morning. I just replaced shocks, struts, mounts, spring pads, etc.. And, the car was aligned by a shop two days later. I have just a bit of vibration in the front end (wheels were balanced) and the camber on my right front is slightly positive. I had a bent wheel there which the guys as APEX gave me a great deal to replace. So, I'm replacing the front (front) control arms under the theory one may be slightly bent, and since the car has 86K miles. Tie rod ends appear to be OK. And, I had the tension strut (front - rear control arms) replaced by a shop about 30k miles back.

I was thinking about replacing the ball joint on the tension struts separately to see if that further tightens up the front - before i decide on the tension strut and bushing.

So, my simple question.... Is the replacement of that ball joint on the tension strut easy or difficult? Will it just fall out of the knuckle end when unbolted, or do i need to press it out? Based on comments about the BallJoints on the wishbone, I think this should be easy but am curious if I'm looking for a surprise...

More difficult/subjective question, has anyone compared strong flex to any other option for XI tension strut busing? It seems I can order new strut with stock bushing (have my shop press in strong flex or other option). Trying to determine whether strong flex or power flex is the best choice...). It's a shame that I'd need to trash new OEM bushings...I wish someone just did a new tension strut with bushing options, but I guess we a a small market...

If the ball joint is not bad, there is zero reason to replace it. You will gain nothing. It will start clunking if it's gone. Generally, they last the life of the car. Leave it alone. That being said, it's bolted into the knuckle, so you shouldn't have any issues getting it out and replaced.


And (for like the 15th time now ) there is no powerflex xdrive bushing option for the TS. Strongflex is the only choice, or cutting/modifying a RWD bushing. Unlike the ball joint, replacing the stock hydrobearings makes a big difference in steering feel.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

If the ball joint is not bad, there is zero reason to replace it. You will gain nothing. It will start clunking if it's gone. Generally, they last the life of the car. Leave it alone. That being said, it's bolted into the knuckle, so you shouldn't have any issues getting it out and replaced.


And (for like the 15th time now ) there is no powerflex xdrive bushing option for the TS. Strongflex is the only choice, or cutting/modifying a RWD bushing. Unlike the ball joint, replacing the stock hydrobearings makes a big difference in steering feel.

Thanks for the advice. There's No clunking out of the Ball Joint at all and I really don't see play there. I'll leave it alone, and replace the front, front control arms with stock (ordered last night) first! Given the wheel damage and slight alignment issue, I am betting one is bent. For $99 and 1/2 of my time each, that seems like a reasonable approach.

I also misunderstood what I had read. I thought we had both SF and PF options now. StrongFlex it is!

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Thanks for the advice. There's No clunking out of the Ball Joint at all and I really don't see play there. I'll leave it alone, and replace the front, front control arms with stock (ordered last night) first! Given the wheel damage and slight alignment issue, I am betting one is bent. For $99 and 1/2 of my time each, that seems like a reasonable approach.

I also misunderstood what I had read. I thought we had both SF and PF options now. StrongFlex it is!

I have the strongflex bushing on my xi and it made a difference in steering. Definitely tightened it up

[e92revolution]

After following this thread for sometime and keeping what I've learned from it in the back of my head until I was ready to commit to major suspension upgrade I finally pulled the trigger.

I ended up going with Syncro Design Works LLC for both their upgraded control arms and upgraded traction arms. Its hard for my to spesificly review the effects these two components had on my handling as I also installed H&R Coilovers, M3 Strut tower bar, front poly sway bar bushings, adjustable camber plates, and black forest motor mounts. The back got a full M3 swap with bimmer world adjustable goodies and more poly goodness through out.

That being said the car easily out handles any m3 I've driven. And in regards to the Syncro Control arms, you can't go wrong. They are pricey but my god are they beefy plus the level of customer support from them has been phenomenal as I've had them work on another custom project for me as well.

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by e92revolution

After following this thread for sometime and keeping what I've learned from it in the back of my head until I was ready to commit to major suspension upgrade I finally pulled the trigger.

I ended up going with Syncro Design Works LLC for both their upgraded control arms and upgraded traction arms. Its hard for my to spesificly review the effects these two components had on my handling as I also installed H&R Coilovers, M3 Strut tower bar, front poly sway bar bushings, adjustable camber plates, and black forest motor mounts. The back got a full M3 swap with bimmer world adjustable goodies and more poly goodness through out.

That being said the car easily out handles any m3 I've driven. And in regards to the Syncro Control arms, you can't go wrong. They are pricey but my god are they beefy plus the level of customer support from them has been phenomenal as I've had them work on another custom project for me as well.

I have sonic tuning Coilover kit with m3 rear subframe bushing, m3 rear swaybar and strongflex front bushings. Does the m3 strut tower bar make a difference and do you have an upgraded front swaybar ?

[mex2309]

I'm getting the 031528A strongflex bushings for tension strut (part #s 31126768983 and /4, the curved ones.)

Question- does strongflex offer bushings for part #31126768989 (the straight lower control arm)

Here is the list of bushings they sell for xdrive, but I couldn't figure out which one, that is if they even sell them:

http://www.strongflex.eu/en/45-e90-e91-e92-xi-4x4-05-11

Originally Posted by shushikiary

To clarify there are 2 front control arms. One is tension strut that strongflex sells the bushing for on the web site and is labeled for XI models properly, and that is the back front control arm, and then the front front control arm which has a mono ball in it like the M3 rear control arms do. The custom one was for the front front, and isnt really needed, the rear one is an AWESOME thing to do and I highly suggest it.

For absolute clarity part numbers:

31126768983 and 31126768984 are the front rear control arm and is the bushing in the pictures above that gets pressed into place and is sold by strong flex on the web site as long as you get the proper XI version.

31126768989 Is the front front control arm and has a mono ball in it, but strongflex was kind enough to update their web site that the front front control arm bushings they sell wont fix the XI part number shown here, and then to make me custom ones that replace the mono ball if I sent them a control arm set, so I dd, and they did.

Reference: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0740

[PrematureApex]

I don't believe they do. I know they've made a custom poly for a member here in that location.

I think the OE arm uses a ball joint...maybe I'm wrong on that.

In any case, the TS bushing is the one that really affects in steering feel, etc.

[skier_du]

I'm pretty sure PrematureApex is corrects out the front lower control arms. I'm pretty sure those are ball joints. Thus no need to say there's no need for a poly bushing as that would be a downgrade.
+1 for the Xi! ??