[Uytre1234565]

Final update:

Finally got her started again. Turns out the cylinder walls were flooded with gas from all the cranking. I put a cap full of oil down each cylinder, cleaned the spark plugs with carb cleaner then she started right up.

Thanks for all the help everyone, I probably would have been stuck if not for all the help. This can be marked as solved if a mod sees this.

For future reference, if you are trying to diagnose a bad fusable link with a multimeter, test for voltage with your key in the on position. This threw me off because with the key off, everything was getting power from the fuse.

Update: no spark. starter turns turns turns

Here is an updated scan after i fixed the issue with valvetronic.

View post on imgur.com

My indicators had already been broken before this and AUc is unplugged because all the plastic covers are out of the car.

the only thing that stands out is the starter code but the car cranks everytime. the cranks are a little weak but it still sounds like it would start if it had spark. would a weak starter prevent spark??

i am not getting any crank sensor codes but ista did not pick up any engine movement while cranking.

The no communication codes are also gone, i think those could have been caused by a loose battery cable not sure but they were all gone today. the car still did not start.

Any help is welcomed








Original post:

Hey guys i have been trying to troubleshoot a no start on my 2009 e82. Im getting low voltage at valvetronic codes and no spark which makes me think its a wire harness problem. Im also getting a crankshaft position sensor code which would explain the no spark. I would just like some advice on what to do next before i start throwing parts at her thanks.

Ista D scan

[Bimmer Pleaser]

what is the battery voltage?

[unrulyteach]

Clear it and try again, nah but go through the test procedures for all the DME and EGS codes, that should really narrow it down

[Uytre1234565]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Pleaser

what is the battery voltage?

Battery voltage is low from me attempting to start. But I’ve already tried recharging it and still no start when it’s fully charged.

[gbalthrop]

[QUOTE=Uytre1234565;23638024...no start on my 2009 e90. Im getting low voltage at valvetronic codes and no spark which makes me think its a wire harness problem. Im also getting a crankshaft position sensor code which would explain the no spark.[/QUOTE]

Fault Code 2A94 = P0335 is telling you the reason your engine won't fire when the starter cranks. The DME uses the Crankshaft Sensor signal to time the pulsing of the injectors and timing of the ignition. Without that signal you have NEITHER spark from the coils/plugs NOR injector pulse. VVT faults would NOT affect spark NOR prevent starting. They COULD put you in limp mode.

Remove the intake manifold, inspect the connector and associated wiring for the Crankshaft Position Sensor (next to the Starter) and if those are OK, change the Crank Sensor (~$90 with new bolt).

Then record ALL code info (code #s & Freeze Frame Data) on ALL the codes you have. Clear ALL codes. Drive the car several times, and then check to see what codes have returned (581E EGS signal fault is almost certainly due to failing Crank Sensor & should NOT return). You have a LOT of codes there, time to start checking other things off the list when you get it running.

I have NO idea why ISTA can't communicate with CAS, EKP or MRS (as shown in 1st 3 lines of your attachment). It would be interesting to know how many OTHER communication faults ISTA shows? Likely some type of bus/communication fault. However, the FIRST questions are: At WHAT mileage were the communication faults saved, and are they NOW present?

Transmission fluid/filter needs changing. AUC (Outside Air Quality) sensor may be unplugged (veh. Right side of microfilter).

George

[Uytre1234565]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Fault Code 2A94 = P0335 is telling you the reason your engine won't fire when the starter cranks. The DME uses the Crankshaft Sensor signal to time the pulsing of the injectors and timing of the ignition. Without that signal you have NEITHER spark from the coils/plugs NOR injector pulse. VVT faults would NOT affect spark NOR prevent starting. They COULD put you in limp mode.

Remove the intake manifold, inspect the connector and associated wiring for the Crankshaft Position Sensor (next to the Starter) and if those are OK, change the Crank Sensor (~$90 with new bolt).

Then record ALL code info (code #s & Freeze Frame Data) on ALL the codes you have. Clear ALL codes. Drive the car several times, and then check to see what codes have returned (581E EGS signal fault is almost certainly due to failing Crank Sensor & should NOT return). You have a LOT of codes there, time to start checking other things off the list when you get it running.

I have NO idea why ISTA can't communicate with CAS, EKP or MRS (as shown in 1st 3 lines of your attachment). It would be interesting to know how many OTHER communication faults ISTA shows? Likely some type of bus/communication fault. However, the FIRST questions are: At WHAT mileage were the communication faults saved, and are they NOW present?

Transmission fluid/filter needs changing. AUC (Outside Air Quality) sensor may be unplugged (veh. Right side of microfilter).

George

I replaced the crank sensor with no luck. Its still a no start / no spark. could the Communication with EKPS be the problem>? The communication faults are currently present.

[nsjames]

yes.

that's how the DME tells the fuel pump to run.

it looks like there's a bunch of communications errors, including CAS. You could also have a security issue because of no communication.

I'd start with trying to figure out why your entire can bus seems to be broken.

[Bavarian Tech]

If your CAS, has no communication it cant send the signal wire to release the starter to engage it. The fact that you multiple multiples not communication including the K-can and PT-Can along with DME internal faults. You have bigger issues ...Whats the history, any issues prior ?

[BimmerBull]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Tech

If your CAS, has no communication it cant send the signal wire to release the starter to engage it. The fact that you multiple multiples not communication including the K-can and PT-Can along with DME internal faults. You have bigger issues ...Whats the history, any issues prior ?

I'm having the same exact problems with similar codes.

Back story: Recently changed my spark plugs and Coil Packs I used OEM Coils packs and NGK double Platinum spark plugs. The car was driving beautifully no problems.. prior I had this hesitation when I was accelerating .. but once I replaced everything the car was perfect.
Last weekend I drove to Miami 3 hour drive and parked the car woke up the next morning and the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not start I have a brand new battery I replaced two months prior alternator was fine and at that exact point the car had no codes just would not start the next day i decided to jump it. The car started. I drove back the three hour drive with no problems woke up the next morning the car wouldn't start It would crank, start, and then immediately shut itself off. I tried jumping it again and didnt work i towed it to my shop.

We changed out the crank shaft sensor now the problem has worsened
the codes
E598
9CB5
9CB8
A0B3
931D
9408
9C6C
A0B2
93D0
CLEARED CODES NOW AFTER THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR I HAVE THESE CODES
2A37
2A94
29E0
2A45
2A77
2A3F
581E
5E19
5E1A

I cleared the second set of codes and the car started after that the car drove but in limp mode it was idling high revving on its own. not goog

[Uytre1234565]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Tech

If your CAS, has no communication it cant send the signal wire to release the starter to engage it. The fact that you multiple multiples not communication including the K-can and PT-Can along with DME internal faults. You have bigger issues ...Whats the history, any issues prior ?

No major issues prior, the car was working fine went into limp mode then it would not start like it’s trying to protect the engine .
The car recognizes the key and cranks every time so I think the CAS is fine, I’m thinking there might be an issue with the DME. I’ve checked all relays/fuses and everything looks good. I even have battery voltage at my coils so it’s just not sending the signal it seems.

Thanks for all the replies!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Uytre1234565

I replaced the crank sensor with no luck. Its still a no start / no spark...

Originally Posted by Uytre1234565

...I’ve checked all relays/fuses and everything looks good. I even have battery voltage at my coils so it’s just not sending the signal it seems...

Originally Posted by Uytre1234565

...i have been trying to troubleshoot a no start on my 2009 e90 [N52] Im getting low voltage at valvetronic codes and no spark...

Have you cleared all the old codes (after recording codes and FF data), and looked to see if you are getting any recurring code during cranking, such as Fault Code 2A94 = P0335, Crankshaft Position Sensor signal? If that fault is recurring after changing sensor, you shoud start with testing the fuse & circuit for that sensor.

I know you said you checked fuses, but I would begin by rechecking fuses F11 (20A) and F37 (30A) per the attached TIS Circuit Diagram for the Valve Gear & Crank Sensor. This is the circuit for the components involved in timing DME pulse/activation of injectors & coils:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ording/vOpiTYU

Also, you say you have checked for spark at one of the coils? Did you remove coil, attach spare plug to coil and ground plug threads -- should spark every two rotations of engine, ~ 2 times per second, during cranking. Coil connectors should have 12V+ at Orange wire, pin #3, of each connector, and that is constant voltage via F39 (30A) when Terminal 87 is active:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/vBlJ2fy

Please let us know what you find,
George

[juld0zer]

Show us the control unit tree and also the full fault code list - either print it then attach it or take several screenshots.

[Uytre1234565]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Have you cleared all the old codes (after recording codes and FF data), and looked to see if you are getting any recurring code during cranking, such as Fault Code 2A94 = P0335, Crankshaft Position Sensor signal? If that fault is recurring after changing sensor, you shoud start with testing the fuse & circuit for that sensor.

I know you said you checked fuses, but I would begin by rechecking fuses F11 (20A) and F37 (30A) per the attached TIS Circuit Diagram for the Valve Gear & Crank Sensor. This is the circuit for the components involved in timing DME pulse/activation of injectors & coils:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ording/vOpiTYU

i checked them again and they are good, i even replaced the 20A fuse with no luck. the crank sensor code did come up again though. ill post the new ista codes

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Also, you say you have checked for spark at one of the coils? Did you remove coil, attach spare plug to coil and ground plug threads -- should spark every two rotations of engine, ~ 2 times per second, during cranking. Coil connectors should have 12V+ at Orange wire, pin #3, of each connector, and that is constant voltage via F39 (30A) when Terminal 87 is active:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/vBlJ2fy

the fuse is good and im getting constant 12V. i did your test with a new spark plug and still no luck. ill post a video of me spark testing below

Please let us know what you find,
George

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Show us the control unit tree and also the full fault code list - either print it then attach it or take several screenshots.

Tree

View post on imgur.com

Fault codes

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

Video of me spark testing

[juld0zer]

Was your car affected by the B+ cable to the junction box recall?
Remove your glovebox and inspect the right hand side for brown burn marks around the middle of the right hand side.
Going by your fault codes and control unit tree status, you have no wake up signal from the CAS to various control units (DSC, EKPS and no terminal R signal to the MRS (airbags).

It would be worth checking Fuses 36 and 55 of the junction box
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e82-128i-cou/iFlWSbX
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e82-128i-cou/igwMrN7
These supply power to the CAS but if it accepts the key then I'd expect the fuse to be good.

Also confirm you have an E82 128i per the VIN rather than an E90?
Are these screenshots the latest? I only ask as the fault list appears different to your original one.

I'm not sure of your experience with ISTA/D so I'm not sure how much guidance you require or if it would be better to truck the car to a dealer but i have a few other suggestions:
Replace the battery with a fully charged known good battery but wait 5mins after disconnecting the existing one.
Reset the 30gf relay in the Junction Box control unit functions.
I am also concerned your FRM may have died from the battery going flat. Do your front windows and turn signals work?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Have you cleared all the old codes (after recording codes and FF data), and looked to see if you are getting any recurring code during cranking, such as Fault Code 2A94 = P0335, Crankshaft Position Sensor signal? If that fault is recurring after changing sensor, you should start with testing the fuse [F11] & circuit for that sensor...

Originally Posted by Uytre1234565

i checked them again and they are good, i even replaced the 20A fuse with no luck. the crank sensor code did come up again though. ill post the new ista codes...
the fuse is good and im getting constant 12V. i did your test with a new spark plug and still no luck. ill post a video of me spark testing below
Fault codes

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

To get all the players are on the same page, here is what I understand to be the primary issue and the test results so far:
1) Car cranks but will NOT fire or even sputter
2) You have 12V+ at the coil Orange wires, Pins#3 of coil connectors
3) You get NO spark from external/grounded plug during cranking
4) You just replaced the CPS, but still have the same "Crank but NO start" symptoms.
5) You cleared P0335/2A94, Crankshaft Position Sensor Fault, presumably NO SIGNAL received by DME during cranking, after replacing the CPS, and STILL have that code recurring after clearing, presumably EVERY time you crank the starter(?)
6) The car in question is a 2009 E90 N52, and that is the vehicle I have been addressing and providing circuit diagrams for.

BTW, does your OZS (Oil Condition Sensor) work to read "Static" oil level with just the ignition on? If NOT, then that would further confirm a power supply fault from F11 as further described below.

So it appears that either (1) your CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is NOT getting 12V+ via the Orange wire from F11 per the following circuit diagram, (2) there is a problem with the signal wire from the CPS to the DME, or (3) a wiring/connector issue in the E-box or JB, or a fault with K6300 relay at the JB:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-fuse/vCFKEe3

These TIS circuit diagrams are interactive, so you can click on any BLUE component ID# and get additional info on that component such as Installation Location or Connector View.

Using a DMM (Digital Multimeter) check for voltage on either side of fuse F11, and check for voltage at the MAF Sensor (that is the easiest of the components powered by F11 to access). Here is the Installation Location of the MAF Connector, X6207:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328i-lim/SB2ajn6
Here is the Connector View, showing Pin #3 in the center of the connector X6207 where the Orange wire supplying 12V+ from F11 connects. Check for 12V+ there with ignition on:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/HROdZZ4V

If you do NOT have 12V+ at Pin#3 of X6207, then test for voltage at each connector UPSTREAM to the DME: X6960 (common for ALL 6 components), X60551, X6041, ALL in the E-box (remember to use Installation Location & Connector View, along with the F11 circuit diagram, to properly identify the pin at which to test voltage.

Finally, AFTER rechecking for 12V+ on BOTH sides of the F11 fuse socket in the JB (Junction Box), if NO voltage there, then check X11002 on the forward side of the JB (you have to disconnect box, see TIS Procedure), and check for proper operation of the K6300 relay. Here are the Installation Location and Connector View for X11002:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...x11002/RHF7wVl
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CSyBytQ3

Please let us know how it goes,
George

[Uytre1234565]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Was your car affected by the B+ cable to the junction box recall?
Remove your glovebox and inspect the right hand side for brown burn marks around the middle of the right hand side.
Going by your fault codes and control unit tree status, you have no wake up signal from the CAS to various control units (DSC, EKPS and no terminal R signal to the MRS (airbags).


It would be worth checking Fuses 36 and 55 of the junction box
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e82-128i-cou/iFlWSbX
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e82-128i-cou/igwMrN7
These supply power to the CAS but if it accepts the key then I'd expect the fuse to be good.

Also confirm you have an E82 128i per the VIN rather than an E90?
Are these screenshots the latest? I only ask as the fault list appears different to your original one.

I'm not sure of your experience with ISTA/D so I'm not sure how much guidance you require or if it would be better to truck the car to a dealer but i have a few other suggestions:
Replace the battery with a fully charged known good battery but wait 5mins after disconnecting the existing one.
Reset the 30gf relay in the Junction Box control unit functions.
I am also concerned your FRM may have died from the battery going flat. Do your front windows and turn signals work?

My car was affected by that recall and the dealer had put a new fuse box in because the old one was damaged by the cable. When that incident happend, the car had no power at all. Right now everything works but it doesn’t spark.
The car is an e82 sorry that was my mistake in the OP and those screenshots are the most recent. I checked the fuses and they are good. I could not find the 30gf reset in ista but While poking around, I found that terminal 15-1 was only getting .84 volts and terminal 50-E isn’t getting power at all. Could that cause the no spark?

My windows and turn signals work. Everything seems to function. The only small thing I noticed was my window glass doesn’t automatically go up when I close the door.

[Uytre1234565]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

To get all the players are on the same page, here is what I understand to be the primary issue and the test results so far:
1) Car cranks but will NOT fire or even sputter
2) You have 12V+ at the coil Orange wires, Pins#3 of coil connectors
3) You get NO spark from external/grounded plug during cranking
4) You just replaced the CPS, but still have the same "Crank but NO start" symptoms.
5) You cleared P0335/2A94, Crankshaft Position Sensor Fault, presumably NO SIGNAL received by DME during cranking, after replacing the CPS, and STILL have that code recurring after clearing, presumably EVERY time you crank the starter(?)
6) The car in question is a 2009 E90 N52, and that is the vehicle I have been addressing and providing circuit diagrams for.

All are correct but number 5 and 6

5. The crankshaft sensor code rarely comes up now after i changed it
(did not get any crank codes today while testing)

6. The car is a 2009 e82 n52 that was my mistake.

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

BTW, does your OZS (Oil Condition Sensor) work to read "Static" oil level with just the ignition on? If NOT, then that would further confirm a power supply fault from F11 as further described below.

Ive checked F11 and have constant 12V at both ends

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

So it appears that either (1) your CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is NOT getting 12V+ via the Orange wire from F11 per the following circuit diagram, (2) there is a problem with the signal wire from the CPS to the DME, or (3) a wiring/connector issue in the E-box or JB, or a fault with K6300 relay at the JB:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-fuse/vCFKEe3

These TIS circuit diagrams are interactive, so you can click on any BLUE component ID# and get additional info on that component such as Installation Location or Connector View.

Using a DMM (Digital Multimeter) check for voltage on either side of fuse F11, and check for voltage at the MAF Sensor (that is the easiest of the components powered by F11 to access). Here is the Installation Location of the MAF Connector, X6207:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328i-lim/SB2ajn6
Here is the Connector View, showing Pin #3 in the center of the connector X6207 where the Orange wire supplying 12V+ from F11 connects. Check for 12V+ there with ignition on:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/HROdZZ4V

If you do NOT have 12V+ at Pin#3 of X6207, then test for voltage at each connector UPSTREAM to the DME: X6960 (common for ALL 6 components), X60551, X6041, ALL in the E-box (remember to use Installation Location & Connector View, along with the F11 circuit diagram, to properly identify the pin at which to test voltage.

good news Im getting battery voltage at my maff sensor connector. bad news The connector for the blue relay (k6300 i believe) is only outputting 8 Volts.

Still stuck with a no spark no start.

[Uytre1234565]

Update: figured out what was causing the low voltage at valvetronic codes. one of the fuses on the battery was faulty so I swapped the connector to another fuse. The valvetronic codes are gone now but the car still does not spark!!

[Uytre1234565]

Here is an updated scan after i fixed the issue with valvetronic.

My indicators had already been broken before this and AUc is unplugged because all the plastic covers are out of the car.

the only thing that stands out is the starter code but the car cranks everytime. the cranks are a little weak but it still sounds like it would start if it had spark. would a weak starter prevent spark??

i am not getting any crank sensor codes but ista did not pick up any engine movement while cranking.

The no communication codes are also gone, i think those could have been caused by a loose battery cable not sure but they were all gone today. the car still did not start.

Any help is welcomed

View post on imgur.com

[nsjames]

if the DME is not seeing engine RPM it will not fire the injectors or spark plugs.

that's the next issue.
You're probably getting the starter error because the car knows it told the starter to go, but it's not seeing revs, so the car thinks the starter is dead.

[Uytre1234565]

Originally Posted by nsjames

if the DME is not seeing engine RPM it will not fire the injectors or spark plugs.

that's the next issue.
You're probably getting the starter error because the car knows it told the starter to go, but it's not seeing revs, so the car thinks the starter is dead.

I went back and checked the crank sensor again and found the connector damaged from my last install. I had to get a new connector housing from the dealer and re wire everything down there. After fixing that, I was able to get a reading in ista for my engine speed, and also got spark back.

So original problem was the fuseable link on the battery but during my diagnosis, I ended up killing my starter from all the cranking.
I’ve replaced my starter but the Fuel pump seems to be dying down as well.

I haven’t started her up yet( it got late didn’t want to get neighbors angry, she’s a little loud).

But I will test on my next day off and update this thread when I get it started.

[redblackbmw]

Originally Posted by Uytre1234565

I went back and checked the crank sensor again and found the connector damaged from my last install. I had to get a new connector housing from the dealer and re wire everything down there. After fixing that, I was able to get a reading in ista for my engine speed, and also got spark back.

So original problem was the fuseable link on the battery but during my diagnosis, I ended up killing my starter from all the cranking.
I’ve replaced my starter but the Fuel pump seems to be dying down as well.

I haven’t started her up yet( it got late didn’t want to get neighbors angry, she’s a little loud).

But I will test on my next day off and update this thread when I get it started.

My car recently didnt start...

I the dme and Cas was out of synce...I had same error codes..

You need to synce the two...the car will not start until they are communicating.....

If you are not getting any power to your dme starter wire in green harness in engine bay....it may be a synce issue.