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      01-11-2021, 06:14 PM   #1
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335 Brake Conversion on 330

I've done some research but haven't come to a conclusion. What is all needed to convert the front brakes from my 330 to 335? As far as I can tell it'd be calipers, caliper carriers, and rotors, and a brake flush of course. Is there anything else I'm missing or might be misinformed about?
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      01-12-2021, 12:42 PM   #2
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that would be it, and even the calipers is debatable, at least in europe the 330 & 335 calipers are the same.
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      01-12-2021, 04:15 PM   #3
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Thanks for the confirmation. The calipers are identical in the rear, in the US 335 fronts are larger
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      01-13-2021, 07:41 AM   #4
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Coding. I am not sure whether 06 330 has performance brake option. You would have to code to performance setting. It is dramatic improvement according to research I did. Also, more importantly it adjust brake bias.
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      01-13-2021, 08:30 AM   #5
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I remember hearing about that. People were experiencing terrible brake shutter without it. Are 335 brakes considered performance brakes?
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      01-13-2021, 11:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
I remember hearing about that. People were experiencing terrible brake shutter without it. Are 335 brakes considered performance brakes?
edycol
No. But they have larger rotor and piston. Thing is BMW offered performance brakes for 328i (not sure 330) and they are same as brakes on M135. But, it seems 335 works better on 328.
I did not see anyone doing on 330i probably bcs. it was offered only for a year so not many around. Plus, 330i already has pretty big rotors if heat dissipation is imperative.
Now, you already have same calipers and rotors in back as 335? If so (I never checked that) then coding might not be necessary. If you do it, check in wet and slippery (snow, ice) how it behaves.
What do you want ultimately? I track my 328 so I am thinking going 335 brakes. But even these on my 328, with 312mm rotor never fade at High Plains Raceway east of Denver. If you are not tracking your car, I would say forget it. If you do, reason why to go with 335 is that you might not need specialty pads and save a lot of money.
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      01-13-2021, 11:09 AM   #7
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You do not need to code the car for different brake sizes; Thats insane.

Ive put 348/345 brakes w/ bigger piston calipers (replacing 324/320) on my 530, 330i front brakes on my brothers 328 and 335 front brakes on my fathers friends 328.

All non M cars had the same brake booster/master and all all the same abs module/pump(rwd and x-drive differ though)
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      01-13-2021, 01:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
I remember hearing about that. People were experiencing terrible brake shutter without it. Are 335 brakes considered performance brakes?
edycol
No. But they have larger rotor and piston. Thing is BMW offered performance brakes for 328i (not sure 330) and they are same as brakes on M135. But, it seems 335 works better on 328.
I did not see anyone doing on 330i probably bcs. it was offered only for a year so not many around. Plus, 330i already has pretty big rotors if heat dissipation is imperative.
Now, you already have same calipers and rotors in back as 335? If so (I never checked that) then coding might not be necessary. If you do it, check in wet and slippery (snow, ice) how it behaves.
What do you want ultimately? I track my 328 so I am thinking going 335 brakes. But even these on my 328, with 312mm rotor never fade at High Plains Raceway east of Denver. If you are not tracking your car, I would say forget it. If you do, reason why to go with 335 is that you might not need specialty pads and save a lot of money.
Yes according to realoem 335s and 330s came with the same rear brakes. My main reasons for wanting 335 brakes up front:

Improved stopping distance at speed (canyon runs and tracking) which is ideal considering the weight of xi's

Heat dissipation could improve as I currently do not have a drivers air duct

Cosmetics, they just look good. Plus I need to do a fluid flush anyways. My buddy will be buying my old brakes off me for his 325 build
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      01-13-2021, 01:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvan View Post
You do not need to code the car for different brake sizes; Thats insane.

Ive put 348/345 brakes w/ bigger piston calipers (replacing 324/320) on my 530, 330i front brakes on my brothers 328 and 335 front brakes on my fathers friends 328.

All non M cars had the same brake booster/master and all all the same abs module/pump(rwd and x-drive differ though)
Thanks for the info, any noticeable difference between the 330 and 335 brakes to you? I'm still going through with the upgrade just cause its so cheap but I'm curious
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      01-13-2021, 01:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Thanks for the info, any noticeable difference between the 330 and 335 brakes to you? I'm still going through with the upgrade just cause its so cheap but I'm curious
Between both I mean the 335 brakes do have a bit more punch; but that's to be expected with a larger diameter rotor+pad. Pistons are actually the same size across.

They are heavier for sure: the 330 calipers(and 335 as well) are aluminum vs the 312 steel calipers but the 335 rotors are thicker than both. So as well as being larger diameter they add weight(Z4 rotors is a good way to bring it back down)

Our reasoning for the 330 front brakes is on my brothers; its a rwd 328(small parking brake). We cant upgrade the rears so I didn't want to add too much front bias to the system.
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      01-13-2021, 02:00 PM   #11
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I am one person that required coding when I did the front retrofit on my wife’s 328i. The car would actually jerk side to side while braking after the retrofit (not the steering wheel but the entire car). After coding, the 328 stops better than my 335i.

Edit, I think I actually started a thread on it.
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      01-13-2021, 03:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Yes according to realoem 335s and 330s came with the same rear brakes. My main reasons for wanting 335 brakes up front:

Improved stopping distance at speed (canyon runs and tracking) which is ideal considering the weight of xi's

Heat dissipation could improve as I currently do not have a drivers air duct

Cosmetics, they just look good. Plus I need to do a fluid flush anyways. My buddy will be buying my old brakes off me for his 325 build
Tires and suspension would better money spent vs 335i brakes unless you already have addressed those areas. I have 335i front brakes that can send you. Pay shipping and something for my troubles. That is if you are set on 335i brakes. Or get F series 340mm front brakes.....
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      01-13-2021, 04:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Thanks for the info, any noticeable difference between the 330 and 335 brakes to you? I'm still going through with the upgrade just cause its so cheap but I'm curious
Between both I mean the 335 brakes do have a bit more punch; but that's to be expected with a larger diameter rotor+pad. Pistons are actually the same size across.

They are heavier for sure: the 330 calipers(and 335 as well) are aluminum vs the 312 steel calipers but the 335 rotors are thicker than both. So as well as being larger diameter they add weight(Z4 rotors is a good way to bring it back down)

Our reasoning for the 330 front brakes is on my brothers; its a rwd 328(small parking brake). We cant upgrade the rears so I didn't want to add too much front bias to the system.
Sounds about right, Z4 rotors were what I was going for for that reason. Anything to keep the weight at least close to stock

Thats a good point for 328 owners. 335 brakes should feel right at home on a 330xi
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      01-13-2021, 04:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Yes according to realoem 335s and 330s came with the same rear brakes. My main reasons for wanting 335 brakes up front:

Improved stopping distance at speed (canyon runs and tracking) which is ideal considering the weight of xi's

Heat dissipation could improve as I currently do not have a drivers air duct

Cosmetics, they just look good. Plus I need to do a fluid flush anyways. My buddy will be buying my old brakes off me for his 325 build
Tires and suspension would better money spent vs 335i brakes unless you already have addressed those areas. I have 335i front brakes that can send you. Pay shipping and something for my troubles. That is if you are set on 335i brakes. Or get F series 340mm front brakes.....
I've got the B12 prokit, monroe top mounts, all new mounting harware to go with it that I've had for the last 15k miles or so. New front endlinks will be ordered here shortly and ive replaced the thrust arm bushings for M3. So far its pretty planted aside from some bump steer, not sure of the mileage on the rest of the bushings or components but for now they're alright.

If my car was a 335 I'd be more inclined to do F series brakes, otherwise it's just not justifiable haha.

PM sent for the 335 front brakes
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      01-13-2021, 07:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
I've got the B12 prokit, monroe top mounts, all new mounting harware to go with it that I've had for the last 15k miles or so. New front endlinks will be ordered here shortly and ive replaced the thrust arm bushings for M3. So far its pretty planted aside from some bump steer, not sure of the mileage on the rest of the bushings or components but for now they're alright.

If my car was a 335 I'd be more inclined to do F series brakes, otherwise it's just not justifiable haha.

PM sent for the 335 front brakes
Tires? You need mechanical grip. Z4 is insignificant weight saving. Rotational mass is still the about the same. Only your pocket will be lighter.
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      01-13-2021, 07:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
I've got the B12 prokit, monroe top mounts, all new mounting harware to go with it that I've had for the last 15k miles or so. New front endlinks will be ordered here shortly and ive replaced the thrust arm bushings for M3. So far its pretty planted aside from some bump steer, not sure of the mileage on the rest of the bushings or components but for now they're alright.

If my car was a 335 I'd be more inclined to do F series brakes, otherwise it's just not justifiable haha.

PM sent for the 335 front brakes
Tires? You need mechanical grip. Z4 is insignificant weight saving. Rotational mass is still the about the same. Only your pocket will be lighter.
Only a few months old. All seasons due to the nature of colorado weather but they have amazing grip for what they are
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      01-13-2021, 07:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Yes according to realoem 335s and 330s came with the same rear brakes. My main reasons for wanting 335 brakes up front:

Improved stopping distance at speed (canyon runs and tracking) which is ideal considering the weight of xi's

Heat dissipation could improve as I currently do not have a drivers air duct

Cosmetics, they just look good. Plus I need to do a fluid flush anyways. My buddy will be buying my old brakes off me for his 325 build
Tires and suspension would better money spent vs 335i brakes unless you already have addressed those areas. I have 335i front brakes that can send you. Pay shipping and something for my troubles. That is if you are set on 335i brakes. Or get F series 340mm front brakes.....
The brakes don't stop the car, the tires do. Without good tires no reason to upgrade the brakes. All they do is convert kinetic energy to heat.

On that note, F30 brakes would be a much better upgrade.
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      01-14-2021, 11:48 AM   #18
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Only a few months old. All seasons due to the nature of colorado weather but they have amazing grip for what they are
Nah.
Winter tires for winter, summer performance for summer.
Another set for track. You are fooling yourself with all seasons. You willd estroy all seasons on track. It does not matter what all seasons you have, they will get physically altered on a track. One of the reasons I am hesitant to go 335 is that then I cannot fit 16" wheel on 328. I run snow 205/55 R16 in winter, Continental VikingContact 7. There is no snow plow that can catch up with me.
In summer, I return to 225/45 R17. For track I will now find cheap 18" on Craigslist and run Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 as they are dirt cheap and offer good grip.
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      01-14-2021, 12:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Only a few months old. All seasons due to the nature of colorado weather but they have amazing grip for what they are
Nah.
Winter tires for winter, summer performance for summer.
Another set for track. You are fooling yourself with all seasons. You willd estroy all seasons on track. It does not matter what all seasons you have, they will get physically altered on a track. One of the reasons I am hesitant to go 335 is that then I cannot fit 16" wheel on 328. I run snow 205/55 R16 in winter, Continental VikingContact 7. There is no snow plow that can catch up with me.
In summer, I return to 225/45 R17. For track I will now find cheap 18" on Craigslist and run Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 as they are dirt cheap and offer good grip.
Lol. I've had zero issues with my all seasons. It's been abnormally dry these last few years to even think about winter tires. The most snow we've had this year has lasted for a few days to maybe a week at most. My all seasons didn't lose traction once. I'm not buying winter tires to use on dry asphalt. Summer tires maybe, but once again I've had zero issues with traction or wear during the summer either

I'm lucky if I see a track day (btw, it's literally a gokart track the local car club rents) once or twice a season, which I got a spare set of wheels for already.

This thread is about a 335 brake conversion and I certainly didn't ask for your opinion on tires
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      01-14-2021, 01:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Lol. I've had zero issues with my all seasons. It's been abnormally dry these last few years to even think about winter tires. The most snow we've had this year has lasted for a few days to maybe a week at most. My all seasons didn't lose traction once. I'm not buying winter tires to use on dry asphalt. Summer tires maybe, but once again I've had zero issues with traction or wear during the summer either

I'm lucky if I see a track day (btw, it's literally a gokart track the local car club rents) once or twice a season, which I got a spare set of wheels for already.

This thread is about a 335 brake conversion and I certainly didn't ask for your opinion on tires
OK, so you have B12 Prokit, Monroe top mounts etc. but you are on all season tires bcs. they are OK? You see, in previous life I was test driver. When discussion starts about performance, everything starts from tires. Tires are what foundation is for a house. One does not build house from roof down, but foundation up. You can put on your car brakes from Formula 1, but if your tires cannot transfer brake force, they are useless.
That is my opinion/experience I was getting paid for.
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      01-14-2021, 02:38 PM   #21
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My vote is to save money and get f30 4 piston brembos. I got a set of front calipers for 300 shipped. Then its a matter of calipers and pads. All in I wanna say I spent $700 and get to have Brembos.
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      01-14-2021, 04:33 PM   #22
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My vote is to save money and get f30 4 piston brembos. I got a set of front calipers for 300 shipped. Then its a matter of calipers and pads. All in I wanna say I spent $700 and get to have Brembos.
Is caliper carrier same or requires some modes?
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