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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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New Front Upper & Lower Controls Arms Installed 4 Months Ago But Weren't Torqued Up?
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01-23-2021, 11:34 AM | #67 | |
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01-24-2021, 02:28 PM | #68 | ||
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It's always a good idea to go back in there and double check the torque after 30 days. |
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01-24-2021, 03:21 PM | #69 | |
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2. Why? Bolts don't mysteriously work loose. If you do it right first time, there is no cause for checking anything. |
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01-25-2021, 02:37 PM | #70 | |
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I can buy a angle measure designed for a torque wrench for under £5. I am working to a budget and hence why I am keeping the cost of tools low, but to a good standard. +1 to Tambohamilton's comment about the bolts - if they are torqued and then turned a further 90 degrees, they should not loosen as they are a TTY bolt. In my case, I used brand new bolts and I don't think the garage did a 90 degrees turn in fear of snapping them, so I think the bolts should be fine. If they were old/rusty or had been torqued and angle turned several times, then I would have bought some new bolts indeed. |
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01-26-2021, 08:21 AM | #71 | ||
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It never hurts to be cautious and double check your torque on suspension parts 30 days after install. |
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01-26-2021, 10:35 AM | #72 |
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How would you go about checking the torque on a TTY bolt? You could check that the initial torque doesn't shift it, but no way to subsequently check the yield bit without loosening and going again...at which point you're back where you started?
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MightyMouseTech4337.50 |
01-26-2021, 11:22 AM | #73 | |
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I appreciate that for a bolt using a regular nut (as opposed to the bracket nut the tension strut uses) the nut could loosen, but, I think it's unlikely that it would loosen and the bolt would stay in place.
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E82 / BMWP Springs / Koni Yellows / M front control arms / Adjustable front endlinks / M rear guide rods / Whiteline Poly RSFB
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01-26-2021, 03:36 PM | #74 |
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+1 to the above 2 posts.
If you go and check the bolts after some days, you can't actually check them without first loosening the bolts, then re-torqueing it and then doing the 90 degree turn. You could possibly get a breaker bar and get a feel for the bolt and maybe turn it a little until it backs out but this method will not let you tighten the bolt true to the spec. I think gjm120's idea is great - simply mark the bolt at the final position (after the 90 degrees turn) then come back after 30 days and check if it has moved...if one is very keen to do so. I personally think the TTY bolt if tightened correctly should be fine but I won't be surprised if they did loosen up after time as there can be various factors involved... the ambient temperature, number of times the bolt has been tightened etc... |
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01-27-2021, 01:36 AM | #75 | |
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02-01-2021, 03:49 PM | #76 |
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I've received my Febi drop links and anti-roll bar bushes, so will be doing these soon.
A question however.. The threaded studs on the ball joints have a 5mm hex slot but they also have a 14mm nut stuck to the bottom of the threaded stud... so do I use a allen key to keep the ball joint from moving during tightening or do I use a 14mm spanner on the stuck nut whilst tightening? Or is either way okay? See attached pictures. Also, what would be the Torque rating for the x4 bolts that hold the anti roll bar bushings in place? From what I remember they are a 13mm hex hex bolt I think... |
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02-01-2021, 04:03 PM | #77 |
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You'll need to use the Allen key; the nut is basically just finger tight on the same thread and will back out as soon as you get to the nyloc of the nut you're putting on.
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02-02-2021, 05:29 AM | #78 | |
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I take it its going to be a similar case as it was with the ball joints - tighten the nut very snug/tight with a spanner (using a 5mm Allen key) then bring the 14mm socket and torque wrench and torque it up hoping the ball joint doesn't spin! Why can't they have a hex slot on the bottom of the ball joints! That way neither a crow's foot or pass-through socket and ratchet set won't be needed! |
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02-02-2021, 02:21 PM | #80 | |
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Could you please confirm on the torque for the anti roll bar bushing brackets? When Newtis was around, all the details were there but now its a case of searching on the net and not easy to get answers for a specific model... |
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02-08-2021, 02:02 PM | #81 |
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What would be the socket size for the nuts holding the sway bar bushings? I've seen a couple of videos on Youtube and one chap required a 13mm for his car and another chap needed a 16mm for his car??
Also, what is the torque for these bushing nuts? |
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02-08-2021, 02:06 PM | #82 |
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Should be 13mm and they only need 21 Nm or 16 ftlb. Don't over-torque them as the studs can break
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02-09-2021, 03:31 PM | #83 |
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03-18-2021, 04:24 PM | #84 |
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Update:
Finally got around to changing the front ARB bushes and ARB End links. Bushes were not that bad but changed them anyway. Front right end link was slightly bent apparently?? And it seemed like a cheap one as it was very light compared to the Febi one that I put on. Has it improved the symptoms of annoying thuds over bumps? I would say maybe 30% less thuds and 30% increase in comfort/softness. I couldn't manage to get my torque wrench to fit to tighten the ball joints for the control arm, wishbone and track rod end, so my plan is to take the car to my local M-B specialist as he takes care of our M-Bs and is trust worthy and get him to torque them down for me. Whilst he's at it, I will also get him to torque down the central strut nut as I can't find a tool that will let me put a allen key and torque wrench together. There is also a slight box rattle noise when going over speed bumps so I am sure some or all of the ball joint nuts are not tightened fully (the noise can't be due to the ARB end links or bushes as these were all replaced today). Ultimately, when I get the ball joint nuts and strut nuts torqued properly and this still doesn't solve the thuds then I will put it down to the SACHS struts as there is nothing else that can cause the thuds (all controls arms replaced and ARB etc etc... so what else could it be if not the ball joint nuts...) Finally, I understand that SACHS only offers M-Sport shocks for the rear of the E92 models...I did not know this at the time I purchased them. So in the summer, I may intend to replace the rear shocks with Bilstein B4s non-sport as they do sport and non-sports shocks for the rears. Hoping the B4 non-sport will work better with the SE (C2) springs on the rear... Don't know why SACHS only offer M-Sport rear shocks for the E92??? |
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03-18-2021, 05:26 PM | #86 |
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03-19-2021, 06:13 AM | #88 |
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