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      12-29-2017, 11:49 PM   #1
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LCI adaptive headlight adjusment bracket fix (Inside the headlight)

Hey guys & gals,

*** This is an example of how I fixed my adjustment bracket that allows you to control how high or low you want your headlight to aim, If you attempt the same procedure as me I am not responsible for any damages you may cause while doing the work***

As most of us know, the replacement of an adaptive headlight comes at a pretty hefty price, pretty much 1100$ up here in Canada.

A few months ago I had decided to adjust the level of my headlights. Of course when I came to adjust the passenger side it wasn't working. I looked up on how to fix this issue and I only came across a post that explained how the headlight-vertical-aim-control maybe have popped out of it's socket...

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/63117207574/

I verified this issue and mine was actually out of it's socket so I placed it back into the bracket and attempted to adjust the angle of my headlight once more, again I was left with no motion of the projector moving up or down.

I went on to open my headlight since I didn't want to spend over 1000$ on a new headlight. I got her open and I notcied that the arm that holds the bracket to move the projector up and down was snapped. This piece is made out of white plastic and is in a shape of an "X" and it sits on the rod that screws the bracket back and forth. At first I tried to do a cold weld on the plastic pieces with a plastic adhesive and it seemd to hold. A couple of weeks go by and the cold weld snapped which led to the headlight facing down.

Tonight I opened my headlight up again and really wanted to fix this issue, this part is not listed on realoem and I cannot locate it anywhere online. What I ended up doing was drilling a very small hole in each of the plastic pieces (the size of a sewing needle), I heated up one side of the needle with a lighter until it turned red and I inserted it into the pilot hole in the plastic, the heat melted the plastic as I was inserting in and then it held on it's own once cooled off, I then cut the needle a little shorter and heated the other side and inserted the other end into the other pilot hole in the other plastic piece. This fused my pieces together and I then added some more plastic adhesive all the way around for extra support. It seems to be holding up well so hopefully this holds together for quite some time! I'll be back for updates in the future to see how it's doing.

Here are some pics of what I did with this bracket. I hope that this can help people fix their headlights.
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      01-12-2018, 11:03 AM   #2
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It's been two weeks since I've done this repair and it's still holding up! We've also had temperatures ranging from -40 degrees Celsius up to +10 degrees Celsius here in Ontario in the past two weeks, I've hit some pretty bad pot holes as well and it's still holding up.
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      01-13-2018, 12:10 PM   #3
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Nice job with the repair. Iíve got a similar problem on my pre-lci xenon headlight, but Iíve been hesitant to remove the headlight lens and open it up to fix it properly. My light will move left/right but the up/down movement is limited due to the existing repair
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      01-14-2018, 12:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djh2 View Post
Nice job with the repair. Iíve got a similar problem on my pre-lci xenon headlight, but Iíve been hesitant to remove the headlight lens and open it up to fix it properly. My light will move left/right but the up/down movement is limited due to the existing repair
Thanks man, Iím happy it worked out because i really did not want to spend that much on a headlight. Removing the lens is the worse part about it all, I resealed it with silicone and I havenít had any issues with moisture or anything.
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      01-14-2018, 12:47 PM   #5
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What method did you use to open it? Hot air or baking it -or something else?
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      01-14-2018, 04:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djh2 View Post
What method did you use to open it? Hot air or baking it -or something else?
I don't own a heat gun and I didn't want to bake it, I was going to use a hair dryer but didn't want to burn it out so I just went at it with an olfa knife and flat head screwdrivers. I know it's not the best way but I got it open.. I ended up breaking some of the housing a little where the lip goes over the lens but I sealed it all the way around with silicone to make sure nothing gets in there and it has worked so far.
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      02-17-2018, 06:38 PM   #7
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Well I'm afraid I have some bad news... My light was back to aiming down last night and when I went to adjust it, it wasn't working so the tab must of broken again.. Uugghhh it's frustrating because I can't locate this part anywhere online so I'll have to reopen the light and fix it somehow..
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      02-18-2018, 11:15 AM   #8
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I'll probably do the same type of repair that I originally did but I'll use a screw this time so that the plastic melts around the the grooves and grips it.
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      02-18-2018, 12:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTO335i View Post
Well I'm afraid I have some bad news... My light was back to aiming down last night and when I went to adjust it, it wasn't working so the tab must of broken again.. Uugghhh it's frustrating because I can't locate this part anywhere online so I'll have to reopen the light and fix it somehow..

When you have the part out and repaired, scan it so that someone can 3-d print it.
Not sure what kind of plastic to use but that would defintaley be a way to reproduce this weak part
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      02-18-2018, 01:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleShrek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTO335i View Post
Well I'm afraid I have some bad news... My light was back to aiming down last night and when I went to adjust it, it wasn't working so the tab must of broken again.. Uugghhh it's frustrating because I can't locate this part anywhere online so I'll have to reopen the light and fix it somehow..

When you have the part out and repaired, scan it so that someone can 3-d print it.
Not sure what kind of plastic to use but that would defintaley be a way to reproduce this weak part
When you say scan it... How exactly do you mean? Sorry for the noob question
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      02-18-2018, 02:46 PM   #11
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Iíd be wary of 3D printing this part, mostly with the stresses applied and difficulty to access/replace. Not saying it canít be done - If I were doing it, Iíd print it in nylon or something reinforced and be careful about the orientation of the part.

You might try using a flat or corrugated metal piece with some roughness for the plastic to grip to. Iím guessing it broke at the repair and the pin pulled out
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      02-18-2018, 02:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTO335i View Post
When you say scan it... How exactly do you mean? Sorry for the noob question
To 3D print a part, you either need the original CAD model or to reverse engineer the part. This can be done manually or by using a 3D scanner. Iím a mechanical engineering professional, I do 3D printing and CAD modeling regularly.
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      02-18-2018, 04:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djh2 View Post
To 3D print a part, you either need the original CAD model or to reverse engineer the part. This can be done manually or by using a 3D scanner. Iím a mechanical engineering professional, I do 3D printing and CAD modeling regularly.
Looks like you have the skill to actually do it.
My own headlights seem to have this issue, ive researched this topic and looks absolutely difficult just to get the damn headlights open. So my suggestion was just that, a suggestion. I would either buy new headlights, that would only buy more time before the original part breaks again or pay to have this issue repaired.
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      02-18-2018, 05:18 PM   #14
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Perhaps something like this: hot staple tool

Using a "hot staple" to bridge the fracture, but attach to either side securely. Might be able to do this as simple as a paper clip in each direction? I don't think your idea was fundamentally wrong for the repair.

Another thing is to reinforce with a strong, slow setting epoxy or something like JB weld. You might need to file afterward if it adds too much bulk
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      02-18-2018, 10:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djh2 View Post
I’d be wary of 3D printing this part, mostly with the stresses applied and difficulty to access/replace. Not saying it can’t be done - If I were doing it, I’d print it in nylon or something reinforced and be careful about the orientation of the part.

You might try using a flat or corrugated metal piece with some roughness for the plastic to grip to. I’m guessing it broke at the repair and the pin pulled out
I haven't checked it out yet but I'm positive that the pin must of slid out of one of the sides, I think what i'll do is use a screw and heat it up so that the plastic can melt in-between the ripples and in that case it should technically hold a better grip... I probably won't get to it till it starts heating up outside though..

Quote:
Originally Posted by djh2 View Post
Perhaps something like this: hot staple tool

Using a "hot staple" to bridge the fracture, but attach to either side securely. Might be able to do this as simple as a paper clip in each direction? I don't think your idea was fundamentally wrong for the repair.

Another thing is to reinforce with a strong, slow setting epoxy or something like JB weld. You might need to file afterward if it adds too much bulk
Thanks for your input and knowledge! It is very appreciated, I could do it that way, I've added JB weld to the original fixture that I had done but that must of cracked open as well.. I'll definitely post back once I attempt this repair again. I do not want to spend 1000$ on a new unit so I will try to repair this as many times as I have to until I can no longer fix it...
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      02-19-2018, 09:38 PM   #16
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      02-22-2018, 11:39 AM   #17
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I just opened my headlight the other day and I notice my projector actually popped off the adjuster. I just popped it back in and it seem to fix the issue. I guess I got luck.

Contact the guys at Lightwerks .. Maybe they have a solution to your problem. Great customer service too.

https://www.lightwerkz.net/
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      02-22-2018, 11:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS3IAM View Post
I just opened my headlight the other day and I notice my projector actually popped off the adjuster. I just popped it back in and it seem to fix the issue. I guess I got luck.

Contact the guys at Lightwerks .. Maybe they have a solution to your problem. Great customer service too.

https://www.lightwerkz.net/
I wish I could be as lucky as you! Do you mean your projector bracket popped of the adjuster that I have pictured above? Glad you got that fixed and that it wasn't a pain like mine! I'll check them out. Thanks for the link
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      02-22-2018, 12:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I wish I could be as lucky as you! Do you mean your projector bracket popped of the adjuster that I have pictured above? Glad you got that fixed and that it wasn't a pain like mine! I'll check them out. Thanks for the link
It actually popped off the adjuster. The adjuster wasn't broken at all. I am not sure how it popped off because I couldn't pull it off again. I notice my chrome projector cover clip was broken on one side. I need to source one now.

Fixed the drooping headlight projector .. I was very lucky the adjuster was not broken .. It looked like the project popped off the adjuster. I just popped it in. I guess I was very lucky I didn't have to replace the adjuster. But I did notice the projector cover inside one of the clip was broken. Anyone have any idea where I can source a cover?


Here is an excellent video how to remove your headlights including the tools you need for those who are reading this thread! It's not an E90 but it has the same damn glue! by the way what did you use to remove the glue around the lens?



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      02-22-2018, 01:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS3IAM View Post
It actually popped off the adjuster. The adjuster wasn't broken at all. I am not sure how it popped off because I couldn't pull it off again. I notice my chrome projector cover clip was broken on one side. I need to source one now.

Fixed the drooping headlight projector .. I was very lucky the adjuster was not broken .. It looked like the project popped off the adjuster. I just popped it in. I guess I was very lucky I didn't have to replace the adjuster. But I did notice the projector cover inside one of the clip was broken. Anyone have any idea where I can source a cover?


Here is an excellent video how to remove your headlights including the tools you need for those who are reading this thread! It's not an E90 but it has the same damn glue! by the way what did you use to remove the glue around the lens?



Unfortunately they do not make the adjuster part itself, I have looked everywhere and this part does not exist. So I would basically be stuck purchasing a brand new headlight if I wasn't skilled enough to tackle this, luckily I don't believe in replacing things until they're 100% un-repairable so I will try to fix this thing as many times as possible before spending 1000$ on a new headlight. I'm not certain as to where you could obtain the shroud piece that covers the front of the projector but If I were you id try to call some local salvage yards in your area and see if they have a headlight that's meant for parts and see if they can sell you the shroud.

To be honest, I didn't open my headlight in the best way, I didn't want to bake it since I've never done that and I don't own a heat gun, so I went around with flat head screw drivers and moved them back and forth to disrupt the glue as much as possible, I ended up breaking some of the lip that overhangs the lens but I got it open and I resealed it with silicone. I decided to go with silicone because it's durable and I knew that one day I would probably have to open it again and I knew that cutting into the silicone would make this an easier process for the following times that I need to access the interior of the headlight. I would put the silicone and spread it with my fingers to get full coverage and the best flat surface as possible so it didn't look completely like a mess. You can't see it with the hood closed and you'd really have to look at the headlight to be able to tell that I had opened it. I've pretty much had the silicone on all winter (we've had an extremely messed up winter up here with a big range of different temperatures) and my headlight never had any signs of condensation and water never entered the headlight. I'll try to get a pic of what it looks like tonight. (I'm aware that I may get flamed but it works for me lol)

Sorry for the long details but I feel like it's best that I describe exactly what I did and my end results (so far). Hopefully I can tackle this again this weekend and haven't fixed fully!
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      02-22-2018, 01:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTO335i View Post
Unfortunately they do not make the adjuster part itself, I have looked everywhere and this part does not exist. So I would basically be stuck purchasing a brand new headlight if I wasn't skilled enough to tackle this, luckily I don't believe in replacing things until they're 100% un-repairable so I will try to fix this thing as many times as possible before spending 1000$ on a new headlight. I'm not certain as to where you could obtain the shroud piece that covers the front of the projector but If I were you id try to call some local salvage yards in your area and see if they have a headlight that's meant for parts and see if they can sell you the shroud.

To be honest, I didn't open my headlight in the best way, I didn't want to bake it since I've never done that and I don't own a heat gun, so I went around with flat head screw drivers and moved them back and forth to disrupt the glue as much as possible, I ended up breaking some of the lip that overhangs the lens but I got it open and I resealed it with silicone. I decided to go with silicone because it's durable and I knew that one day I would probably have to open it again and I knew that cutting into the silicone would make this an easier process for the following times that I need to access the interior of the headlight. I would put the silicone and spread it with my fingers to get full coverage and the best flat surface as possible so it didn't look completely like a mess. You can't see it with the hood closed and you'd really have to look at the headlight to be able to tell that I had opened it. I've pretty much had the silicone on all winter (we've had an extremely messed up winter up here with a big range of different temperatures) and my headlight never had any signs of condensation and water never entered the headlight. I'll try to get a pic of what it looks like tonight. (I'm aware that I may get flamed but it works for me lol)

Sorry for the long details but I feel like it's best that I describe exactly what I did and my end results (so far). Hopefully I can tackle this again this weekend and haven't fixed fully!
My only advice is look at some junk yards with damage headlights. I am assuming they wont have any use for them if it's cracked. Maybe they will sell it cheap?

Definitely contact Lightwerks and see if they have any solution to your problem. Have you tried using epoxy? Good luck and keep us updated!
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      02-22-2018, 02:01 PM   #22
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Quote:
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My only advice is look at some junk yards with damage headlights. I am assuming they wont have any use for them if it's cracked. Maybe they will sell it cheap?

Definitely contact Lightwerks and see if they have any solution to your problem. Have you tried using epoxy? Good luck and keep us updated!
I think I'll attempt to fix it one more time before looking into contacting the junk yards for the part, I went to a local U-pull yard the other day and I had no luck.. I looked at the site and they don't seem to have what I need as for the part but I could always contact them directly for extra information, I had used some JB weld around the area where the joints met but It must of not held enough, for some reason I find the JB weld doesn't hold up so well in the cold. What must of happened in that I hit a few too many potholes and the pin must of slid out of one of the sides and the JB weld cracked so it pulled itself apart again. What I'll do this time in remove the pin, heat up a screw that will fit in there and screw it in, once solidified I will cut off the head of the screw and heat it up again and screw on the other end of the bracket onto it, I'm hoping that the threads from the screw will hold the plastic in-between them therefor never being able to pull apart again. we shall see and I will definitely post some updates!
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