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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > '15 N55 Retro-swap into an '11 335i AWD begins



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      08-08-2019, 07:20 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by DiFFv1 View Post
This is amazing to see, I myself have dug through my '11 N55 motor and am familiar with the pop up issues aswell. Anything you need let me know and ill be more than happy to help. i may have a stock oem oil cooler for ya
Diff, I cannot see any reason why I can't reuse the ferrous (non-aluminum) bolts. I have access to an industrial "thread" cleaner and several flavors of lock-tite. Every one is welcome to offer advice
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      08-08-2019, 08:33 AM   #24
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wow thats crazy it has almost disintegrated.


so the consensus is that its not possible to use later N55 model oil pans on older model n55 blocks correct ?

Last edited by Pladi; 08-08-2019 at 11:49 AM..
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      08-08-2019, 12:15 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
wow thats crazy it has almost disintegrated.


so the consensus is that its not possible to use later N55 model oil pans on older model n55 blocks correct ?
Pretty much, safest bet is to transfer the oil pan from your current engine to whatever you are swapping in.
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      08-08-2019, 02:23 PM   #26
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Mike since you are removing both oil pans can you take a picture side by side. Only if you have time.. just curious.
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      08-08-2019, 03:15 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
Mike since you are removing both oil pans can you take a picture side by side. Only if you have time.. just curious.
Absolutely. From my perspective, the external difference is significant. Hopefully, I'll post those pictures Sunday. I was amazed how good my original oil pan looked after I blasted it with
At this point in my project, I now realize how much more difficult working on a dd car from the snow belt vs. cars that have never seen road salt. My replacement engine is from Texas and the copper coated? turbofold nuts are pristine. My PS2 only saw one winter and the amount of exterior corrosion observed was astonishing (fortunately, I packed the inside cavity of the turbofold nuts with copper anti-seize.). Due to corrosion. I destroyed the brake pipe from the MC to the right front caliper (Making bubble flairs takes a little practice). Another challenge is realizing how difficult this project is without a complete parts list.
Please give me your opinion on reusing the ferrous bolts whose torque specifications are not 'torque-to-yield). Newtis.info apparently wants you to pretty much use all new bolts.
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      08-08-2019, 08:29 PM   #28
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      08-11-2019, 03:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
Mike since you are removing both oil pans can you take a picture side by side. Only if you have time.. just curious.
The main difference is in the casting which allows more oil to pool closer to the sump pick up. Maybe bbnks2 might chime in. I believe he's done considerable research into this matter. It's been well over 30 years since I completed two semesters of engineering physics & calculus, but the picture kinda makes volumetric analysis unnecessary.
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      08-12-2019, 05:28 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by cranelec View Post
Diff, I cannot see any reason why I can't reuse the ferrous (non-aluminum) bolts. I have access to an industrial "thread" cleaner and several flavors of lock-tite. Every one is welcome to offer advice
You can re-use them. If no visible damage and no problem torquing down id go ahead my friend
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      08-12-2019, 08:34 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by cranelec View Post
Absolutely. From my perspective, the external difference is significant. Hopefully, I'll post those pictures Sunday. I was amazed how good my original oil pan looked after I blasted it with
At this point in my project, I now realize how much more difficult working on a dd car from the snow belt vs. cars that have never seen road salt. My replacement engine is from Texas and the copper coated? turbofold nuts are pristine. My PS2 only saw one winter and the amount of exterior corrosion observed was astonishing (fortunately, I packed the inside cavity of the turbofold nuts with copper anti-seize.). Due to corrosion. I destroyed the brake pipe from the MC to the right front caliper (Making bubble flairs takes a little practice). Another challenge is realizing how difficult this project is without a complete parts list.
Please give me your opinion on reusing the ferrous bolts whose torque specifications are not 'torque-to-yield). Newtis.info apparently wants you to pretty much use all new bolts.
What bolts are you referring to? Oil pan, windage tray, and plenty of other bolts in the engine are aluminum stretch bolts. You give the oil pan bolts 90* stretch past the initial seating torque. They will never produce the same clamping force if you re-use them. It can be done, but do you really want to break bolts and/or have to deal with a leaky oil pan gasket to save $20?

Both of those pans are similar enough that I wouldn't think there would be much if any difference in terms of keeping oil around the pickup lol
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      08-12-2019, 11:27 AM   #32
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Both of those pans are similar enough that I wouldn't think there would be much if any difference in terms of keeping oil around the pickup lol
I remembered following one of your (Bbnks2) threads on a different forum where you discussed this matter in detail. I hurried posting the picture of the oil pan comparison. Tonight, I will post better picture(s) of the difference in the '15 vs '11 oil pan.

After reading several similar threads of yours, I believe that BMW engineers purposely doubled the size of the area where the supporting bracket (part# 3150869943) attaches on the right hand side creating a ported area where approximately one liter of oil would be forced inward by centripetal force towards the sump pickup when executing sharp right turns. Conversely, during the execution of sharp left hand turns, centrifugal force would replenish the extra oil capacity along with gravity. Factually, the newer oil pan has additional volume near the sump.

BBnks2, you know me well enough by now to understand that I am still learning and not suggesting in anyway that your previous observations are incorrect. Probably, the close/tight tolerances associated with our vehicles are more problematic with respect to the oil draining back into the pan fast enough to make my observation of little value.

What bolts are you referring to?
Specifically, every ferrous/magnetic fastener that is not torque to yield. I have far too much sweat-equity in the project to jeopardize getting my baby back on the road for the sake of a few hundred dollars. The body shop that I use to paint my bumpers turned me on to a company called Eastwood which manufactures specialty automotive coatings. Dropping the sub-frame allowed me to see all the rust (caused by road salt) which is starting to eat away at the structural integrity of a very fast RETIREMENT car. As for the non-aluminum fasteners, I plan on electrode-plating the heads with nickel.

Last edited by cranelec; 08-12-2019 at 11:50 AM..
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      08-12-2019, 12:09 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
What bolts are you referring to? Oil pan, windage tray, and plenty of other bolts in the engine are aluminum stretch bolts. You give the oil pan bolts 90* stretch past the initial seating torque. They will never produce the same clamping force if you re-use them. It can be done, but do you really want to break bolts and/or have to deal with a leaky oil pan gasket to save $20?

Both of those pans are similar enough that I wouldn't think there would be much if any difference in terms of keeping oil around the pickup lol
IMO i believe if you are comfortable with the bolts then by all means use them. Upon reading i see that the car has had a bit of damage throughout its travels underneath. So maybe it would be a good idea to replace them. All of this is based upon different scenarios and situations.
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      08-12-2019, 02:31 PM   #34
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yeah the bolt thing take it in case by case basis. The bolts that stretch obviously have to be replaced. The bolts that are steel dont have to unless they look damaged or corroded and are in critical areas..
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      08-12-2019, 07:55 PM   #35
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The rust is fairly insignificant considering my baby spent nine years in the snow belt. I definitely will replace these fasteners with SS wherever possible.
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      08-12-2019, 08:16 PM   #36
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'11 335i xDrive Oil Pan
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      08-12-2019, 08:46 PM   #37
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2015 F30 AWD Oil pan
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      08-18-2019, 06:37 AM   #38
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Actually Pladi, in addition to the DME & wiring harness, the crankshaft vibration damper or harmonic balancer due to the '15s belt having eight ribs, the old pan must be transferred,the vacuum pump, the fuel pump, the engine block castings which attach to the motor mounts, valve cover, fuel rail, turbofold block mounting bracket, aluminum—rubber coolant pipe from engine block-waterpump-turbo (at least if new/donor engine is AWD w/EWG).
PROGRESS UPDATE:
All aluminum engine brackets blasted and painted with Eastwood's "Aluma-Blast"
Oilpan interior coated with Glyptol.
O2 Sensors removed and VSRF down-pipe blasted & prepped for painting.
ProMeth manifold prepped for installation.
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      08-18-2019, 03:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranelec View Post
Actually Pladi, in addition to the DME & wiring harness, the crankshaft vibration damper or harmonic balancer due to the '15s belt having eight ribs, the old pan must be transferred,the vacuum pump, the fuel pump, the engine block castings which attach to the motor mounts, valve cover, fuel rail, turbofold block mounting bracket, aluminum—rubber coolant pipe from engine block-waterpump-turbo (at least if new/donor engine is AWD w/EWG).
PROGRESS UPDATE:
All aluminum engine brackets blasted and painted with Eastwood's "Aluma-Blast"
Oilpan interior coated with Glyptol.
O2 Sensors removed and VSRF down-pipe blasted & prepped for painting.
ProMeth manifold prepped for installation.

Wow incredible update.

How did you find prometh customer service ?

I am building my own meth controller and overall system and had some questions regarding some of their products but never got any answers.

Why did you opt for this manifold as suppose to the aluminum spacer that some other guys sell. Just curios. Might be cheaper i think.
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      08-18-2019, 09:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cranelec View Post
Actually Pladi, in addition to the DME & wiring harness, the crankshaft vibration damper or harmonic balancer due to the '15s belt having eight ribs, the old pan must be transferred,the vacuum pump, the fuel pump, the engine block castings which attach to the motor mounts, valve cover, fuel rail, turbofold block mounting bracket, aluminum—rubber coolant pipe from engine block-waterpump-turbo (at least if new/donor engine is AWD w/EWG).
PROGRESS UPDATE:
All aluminum engine brackets blasted and painted with Eastwood's "Aluma-Blast"
Oilpan interior coated with Glyptol.
O2 Sensors removed and VSRF down-pipe blasted & prepped for painting.
ProMeth manifold prepped for installation.

Wow incredible update.

How did you find prometh customer service ?

I am building my own meth controller and overall system and had some questions regarding some of their products but never got any answers.

Why did you opt for this manifold as suppose to the aluminum spacer that some other guys sell. Just curios. Might be cheaper i think.
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      08-19-2019, 05:17 AM   #41
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Wow

Everything is coming together quite well, Just curious how much power are you trying to achieve with this build?
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      08-19-2019, 09:06 AM   #42
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Everything is coming together quite well, Just curious how much power are you trying to achieve with this build?
My power goal for this build is truly conservative due to the fact that my baby is still going to be my daily driver for at least two more years. 400 WHp to 450 WHp without hurting my baby.

Since my home is less than 20 minutes from the Pocono Raceway, I'd like to track my car like bbnks2.

I'm less than one hour away from Numedia? drag strip. I'm hoping for a low 12 second 1/4 mile.

This will require three separate tunes by Wedge: DD, Auto Cross, and 1/4 mile.
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      08-20-2019, 07:05 AM   #43
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My power goal for this build is truly conservative due to the fact that my baby is still going to be my daily driver for at least two more years. 400 WHp to 450 WHp without hurting my baby.

Since my home is less than 20 minutes from the Pocono Raceway, I'd like to track my car like bbnks2.

I'm less than one hour away from Numedia? drag strip. I'm hoping for a low 12 second 1/4 mile.

This will require three separate tunes by Wedge: DD, Auto Cross, and 1/4 mile.

Sounds good brother. I'm currently making around those numbers both ways and the car is a beast for daily driving. What are your cooling ideas? I went with two oil coolers ( OEM/Aftermarket ) Or do you believe its over kill depending on living location?
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      08-20-2019, 07:56 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by DiFFv1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cranelec View Post
My power goal for this build is truly conservative due to the fact that my baby is still going to be my daily driver for at least two more years. 400 WHp to 450 WHp without hurting my baby.

Since my home is less than 20 minutes from the Pocono Raceway, I'd like to track my car like bbnks2.

I'm less than one hour away from Numedia? drag strip. I'm hoping for a low 12 second 1/4 mile.

This will require three separate tunes by Wedge: DD, Auto Cross, and 1/4 mile.

Sounds good brother. I'm currently making around those numbers both ways and the car is a beast for daily driving. What are your cooling ideas? I went with two oil coolers ( OEM/Aftermarket ) Or do you believe its over kill depending on living location?
As for oil cooling, the fact that my car will now have a factory oil cooler should be a huge improvement over not having one.

Prior to investing in a Wedge tune, my oil temps were fairly typical of BMWs with the gauge holding under 250F. After flashing the initial tune, my oil temps never went above 220F.

That being said...Hopefully, all cooling issues will never arise in the future.

FWIW: I purchased a new Cobb cat-back exhaust last night.
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